Anyone else get some today...?

[Long duc dong]

Photo #1 is piggity this morning
http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/...lvador_69159/#

Very nice!

[liv2ski]

Your in El Salvador for reelz???? You dog. Today's Swami's forecast:


Smaller!, this is bIRD with the report for Tuesday morning


This morning's dawn patrol: Low tide dribble lines with some short LB corners on the best of the rare sets.

[icelanticskier]

gorgeous morning nh. thigh/waist glass no closeouts fun. very few folks out surprise swell. hopefully the 1st of many, many fun days to come. the rocket was wonderful per usual. glided across the flat sections to reform inside like a charm. rail to rail momentum carving at it's finest.



rog

[icelanticskier]

today

kinda like yesterday. a c-hair smaller maybe, but still beautiful. next week looks legit.

time to go pull the trigger on that 5'11 better wave board i've been drooling over.

rog

[dude_le_skibum]

today

kinda like yesterday. a c-hair smaller maybe, but still beautiful. next week looks legit.

time to go pull the trigger on that 5'11 better wave board i've been drooling over.

rog

wanna hook-up?

[PowerWhore7]

wanna hook-up?

Rog you dog...


Got some in HB this morning. 3-5ft with the occasional HH/OH set (for me @ least). Barrels were a plenty this morning, exits on the other hand...

Snapped a couple of shitty pics in the rain.

[icelanticskier]

wanna hook-up?

are you a beautiful woman? if so, yes.

if not, no.

rog

[icelanticskier]

Rog you dog...

right?

that'll work. peaky playground.

rog

[Piggity]

^nice and peaky.

Fun trip, waves and wind cooperated for almost the entire trip. Only dropped below headhigh for a few hours one day and then the next swell filled in before dark. Back home now and it's flat to flat with onshores.

[icelanticskier]

^^^^^^^NICE BUCKET TOSS PIGGERS!!!!!!!

new board? ridin high.

rog

[icelanticskier]

save yer gas money louis. nothin happening here nh. trunked it this morning cuz it wasn't worth getting the suit wet for knee high mile long 16 second period beach break closeouts.

oh how i pine for 8 second head high windswells. maybe tomorrow we'll enjoy mile long thigh high closeouts.

rog

[dude_le_skibum]

i thought a longer period makes for better waves?

this forecast is driving me insane they have no clue whats going on?
will you be able to deke that wind?

[Piggity]

longer period can closeout the beach breaks and this also causes a lot of breaks to be un-surfable, then concentrating crowds in a few select areas. We had that in El Salvador where of all the right hand point breaks in the area, only 2 were surfable and the rest were closing out the bay. Crowds got thick at the 2 bigger points that could handle the decent size swell with semi-long periods. Short period windswell can cause beach breaks to produce perfect a-frames and many people would almost prefer that, lots of shacks on days like that. Crowds then spread out over more breaks and ease the traffic in the lineup. If conditions are too perfect then everyone and their 5 friends come out and everywhere is super crowded...constant dilemma of surfing but knowing the breaks and what size, swell, direction and periods work best for different spots is the key to scoring good surf.

Thanks Rog, I've been replaying a lot of those sequences in my mind after going through all the photos. I'm not the TR or photo posting kinda guy though, took a lot for me to post those

[Ottime]

^^^looks like that must have been a fun trip. I would press for a TR, as this place needs more surf stoke, and trips are pretty fun.

As for period, another factor is the frequency you get such periods. The breaks up here are shaped by large, long period waves. So generally, we find the best waves when things tip above 13 seconds. Even the beach breaks don't like the period too short. Maybe 10 seconds.

New England, OTOH, has breaks mostly shaped by smaller wind swell. Up above 13 seconds, it becomes hard to find many breaks that will work, unless, of course, the size is up above 4 feet. Beach breaks in Maine start working pretty well at 6 second periods, and are best around 8. Gotta move to the points when things get much above 10 seconds. The 10 foot plus swing in tides also makes it harder to learn about, and score, the reefs that work at 14-18 seconds. RI, is different though, and has more long period spots. Rog, next time, if you have a day to kill, check out the sand spit inside timber is., minus-3' tide coming in. Used to work well when it was small and long. If it is a bit bigger, the east facing outside reef can break nicely. We called it barnacles, so take that as a warning. it is pretty shallow across the bowl. I think that work more on 5-8'+ tide. If it is real big, south side wrap around.

Personally, I like either really clean, single source, 16-21 second well over head swell, with a slight cross-off breeze, or double swell, single direction, consistent, 12-15 second, over head, not a whiff or wind at another spot, or some combo n/s swell, one 16-18 second, head high swell, with just the right amount of wind swell coming into it, to break it up and make it super playful.

Things have been pretty flat here for a week, and I'm an optimist. MTB has been fun though.

Anyway, Drake's Island Beach, semi-micro-wave stoke.



This beach loves anything from 3sec to up past 10. But it does not get nearly as much swell as the beaches to the south, so it is usually flat. But from a jetty on the south end, cobble stones just north, some boulders past there and an estuary another mile plus north, there is loads of potential. Just rarely waves.



small, short period, bouncy off the jetty


small, long period, across a reef


just fun to post up some pics. seriously, while drake's is a missed opportunity for great surf, it is still one of the most beautiful beaches i have frequented.

[icelanticskier]

this forecast is driving me insane they have no clue whats going on?
will you be able to deke that wind?

deked the wind and found some swell today. the gf and i spent the day at the rivermouth and scored some fun waist high with chest high sets. south in the wind blew everything else out, but the RM stayed pretty darn clean. surfed from 12-2pm, or 1.5 hrs before low till 1/2 hr past. excellent choice today.

cape cod tomorrow am should be clean in the waist+ range. gonna try to hit the road tonight, altho that bed here in york is lookin mighty tasty right now.

hmmm, what to do.........................

rog

[icelanticskier]

thanx ottime for the tip, and nice pics!

scored perfect cape cod this morning. waaaaaaaay better than i expected. left maine late last night and got to moms early morning. slept a few hours then headed up to coast guard beach to find shoulder high glassy a-frame perfection with a sand bar all to myself. broke really well right through high tide which surprised the shit outta me. the rights were looong peaking and tapering very gradually into a hole along side the bar. twas definitely take yer time relaxed surfing. pop up set up for that 1st hit then just rollercoaster the long open face that just didn't seem to ever wanna section in front of ya. so sweet. may head back up this afternoon after my re-financing deal is done. if the wind doesn't wreck it of course.

coast guard cam today, wind is creating a bit of texture already: http://www.morebeach.com/cape-cod-be...t-10-cg-images

never thought i'd have so much fun chasing slightly above average summer waves

rog

[dude_le_skibum]

thanx ottime for the tip, and nice pics!

scored perfect cape cod this morning. waaaaaaaay better than i expected. left maine late last night and got to moms early morning. slept a few hours then headed up to coast guard beach to find shoulder high glassy a-frame perfection with a sand bar all to myself. broke really well right through high tide which surprised the shit outta me. the rights were looong peaking and tapering very gradually into a hole along side the bar. twas definitely take yer time relaxed surfing. pop up set up for that 1st hit then just rollercoaster the long open face that just didn't seem to ever wanna section in front of ya. so sweet. may head back up this afternoon after my re-financing deal is done. if the wind doesn't wreck it of course.

coast guard cam today, wind is creating a bit of texture already: http://www.morebeach.com/cape-cod-be...t-10-cg-images

never thought i'd have so much fun chasing slightly above average summer waves

rog

ok i'm coming

[icelanticskier]

ok i'm coming

not yet louis, i'm not quite ready yet.........

rog

[dude_le_skibum]

i just can't hold it no more. come!

[icelanticskier]

nice louis

fuck this refinance thing got all screwed up. in my favor in the end tho. trying to figure out my moms blackberry (just to make calls) as my ole flip phone is dead now. nh looks like shit, cape looks good. gotta get back up there!!! today!!!

rog

[dude_le_skibum]

having lunch, dropping the dogs at the inlaws and i'm 7h00 away

[icelanticskier]

tomorrow mid late day could be really fun here. coast guard or marconi. if i get "stuck" here another day cuz of this re-fi bullshit, i'll be there for when the wind worx.

rog

[Ottime]

Shoulder high sounds like so much fun. Our flat spell ends Friday. Just about when I'm getting in the car to drive to the mountains for the holiday weekend. Suck

[Long duc dong]

Waist to chest high this weekend in Newport. Bumpy from the wind, but evening session Friday/Saturday/Sunday were better than I expected. It was not great, but when the water is 72 degrees I can't pass up waist to chest high, even if it was mostly waist high.

Dave Parmenter once likened Southern California surfers to a bunch of seagulls on a pier fighting over a half eaten hot dog. He might be right, but there always seems to be food here, even if it is more often Subway than Joel Rubichon. After going to college in Santa Barbara, I love the summer consistency of Orange County.

[icelanticskier]

Shoulder high sounds like so much fun. Our flat spell ends Friday. Just about when I'm getting in the car to drive to the mountains for the holiday weekend. Suck

aint that the way tho? ya shoulder high with good shape and volume offers lots to do.

well, my payment went lower than expected and i got kicked back at least 2 new surfboards worth o cash when i wasn't expecting anything. guess the 3 hr extra wait was worth it.

hmmm, pick up new board to replace the tired rocket and head back coast guard beach way for chest high side shore texturechop? new boards somehow allow one to be stoked no matter what the conditions offer. nice when there's an actual wave for the occasion.

pretty day

rog