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  1. #4926
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Boy, it has been flat in San Diego for about 10 days now. Waiting for October.
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  2. #4927
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Van City and Whistler
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    1,993
    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Well, technically, not every where. I live in a very popular surf town with 8 million people within driving distance. All the spots in town are super crowded for sure. But I regularly get world class waves a ten minute drive and 5-15 minute hike from the car with 0-8 people out. It is crazy how easy it is to get away from the crowds here when conditions align (swell, tide, wind). Lemmings are lemmings.
    Yeah. You clearly have it good down there. The very few vids that come out from that area every once in a while always has me going, why does any surfer live in socal (excluding obvious family and job commitments and the what not).

    Lemmings. Everywhere. My brother lives in socal. I visited a couple years ago. Small surf. Waist high at topanga. It's a decent mushy point wave. 30+ people on the peak fighting over scraps. I look 300 yards to the right and there's beach break that allows 1-3 turns, occasionally closes out. Same size. Tiny bit steeper. Zero people. I look at my brother, he says, "I often surf there alone unless Topanga is really firing." Just me and him trading waves next to the zoo.
    But man oh man, some of the other days at other spots I struggled in the crowd down there. Not used to it!

  3. #4928
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    2,690
    Quote Originally Posted by Atrain505 View Post
    Yeah. You clearly have it good down there. The very few vids that come out from that area every once in a while always has me going, why does any surfer live in socal (excluding obvious family and job commitments and the what not).

    Lemmings. Everywhere. My brother lives in socal. I visited a couple years ago. Small surf. Waist high at topanga. It's a decent mushy point wave. 30+ people on the peak fighting over scraps. I look 300 yards to the right and there's beach break that allows 1-3 turns, occasionally closes out. Same size. Tiny bit steeper. Zero people. I look at my brother, he says, "I often surf there alone unless Topanga is really firing." Just me and him trading waves next to the zoo.
    But man oh man, some of the other days at other spots I struggled in the crowd down there. Not used to it!
    I actually think the waves in parts of socal can be underrated in certain ways. It's much less windy than up north, and Orange County gets REALLY consistent in the summer, which is big for me. It also gets insane from time to time. La Jolla is pretty nuts too.

    One of my buddies from UCSB and Newport lives up north now. He surfs Ocean Beach pretty regularly. He grew up on the Big Island and rips. He loves Ocean Beach, but says it can be blown out for months on end in the summer. He says he would prefer Newport, as it has more consistently surfable days and occasionally pumps, plus you have an easy drive to San Clemente. He says he would trade the occasionally epic Ocean Beach days for the consistent fun of Newport. NB/HB might be the easiest area to surf a lot if you have an office job. Orange County is actually arguably better in the summer than in the winter.

    But the issue in OC is the crowds. It's insane down here. I absolutely love Lowers, it probably has more good days, depending on how one defines that term, than any other wave in California. But the crowd there is horrible.

    If you are shrewd you can find good peaks that are not TOO crowded down here. Like you said about the beachbreak near Topanga, I am always amazed to see people crowding around a great peak in NB/HB when there are peaks 80% as good that are not nearly as crowded. It never ceases to amaze me. The HB pier is one of the most glaring examples of that. The peaks close to the pier are really fun, they get insane from time to time and that zone probably has more surfable days than anywhere in California, but I never understand why so many people crowd around that one south of the pier when there are peaks almost as good just slightly down the beach. It really does not make sense to me. I have also seen more fights there than any other break, and I usually surf Newport.

    I actually surfed south of the pier today. It was thigh high, and I had fun on the 7'6" again. Today was not good, but it was worth getting in the water on the big board. I should have an early window tomorrow.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  4. #4929
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    Aug 2007
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    Aaaaah to be young and willing to put up with the shit of So Cal surfing. 20 years ago I was an everyday surfer and my buddy that was 15 years older than me couldn't be bothered unless we went to K38 and it was firing. Back then I never understood him, now I do.
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  5. #4930
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    9,950
    SoCal has some great waves. No doubt. Many with crowds that require you to don the horse blinders to surf. So no kindness less it be mistaken for weakness. I can do all that but it feels like a day at the office.

    OB can surely get great but is sucks as a local break. Picks up no south swell and usually windblown 200 days a year. Shot gets way mellower south of Pigeon and SC faces SE. plenty of places to get great summer surf. A spot in Big Sur is a bit gnarlier than anything Iíve ever surfed in OC in the summer. Donít get me wrong. Had some fun surf at Lowers, Uppers.and Cottons. But this place requires a step up or gun during a moderate south. Canít imagine what it looks like on a big one. Weíve also got a place up near here that makes a south turn into a bomb. Next place I know like that is in Poipu.

    If you friend wants a tour, lemme know. Always looking for strong partners to go and get some with. Must not fear the white shark.

  6. #4931
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    2,690
    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    SoCal has some great waves. No doubt. Many with crowds that require you to don the horse blinders to surf. So no kindness less it be mistaken for weakness. I can do all that but it feels like a day at the office.

    OB can surely get great but is sucks as a local break. Picks up no south swell and usually windblown 200 days a year. Shot gets way mellower south of Pigeon and SC faces SE. plenty of places to get great summer surf. A spot in Big Sur is a bit gnarlier than anything I’ve ever surfed in OC in the summer. Don’t get me wrong. Had some fun surf at Lowers, Uppers.and Cottons. But this place requires a step up or gun during a moderate south. Can’t imagine what it looks like on a big one. We’ve also got a place up near here that makes a south turn into a bomb. Next place I know like that is in Poipu.

    If you friend wants a tour, lemme know. Always looking for strong partners to go and get some with. Must not fear the white shark.
    I should clarify that OC is more about consistent FUN waves than gnarly ones. Cottons over 4th of July weekend would be an example of a big south, it was double overhead but not really scary, steep faces but not really throwing. If you got caught inside it was not all that bad, I did a couple of times and it was just rolling. It is really rare that you need any sort of step up down here, maybe occasionally in the winter at Lunada or Blacks, but those days are few and far between. You guys get much bigger surf up there.

    My buddy spent high school on the Big Island. He spent a year on the North Shore, his mom had bought a condo and had him live there for a year rent free, a year he says he misses. He has said that one November at OB was among the top 3 surfing months of his life. He works in outside sales, so he can get sessions in during the middle of the day, he said he surfed just about everyday, it was at least head high everyday, and the winds were good. But he also says that he has had Augusts where there is, literally, not a day where he would surf. He misses the ease of getting decent waves in Newport. His wife has an office job in San Francisco, so unless she is able to go permanently remote they are going to be up there. I'll pass along the offer, he has mentioned the areas north of Santa Cruz before. And yeah, I've heard plenty of stories of the sharks.

    I think the only place I have ever surfed up north was Stinson. It was my sophomore year in college, over Thanksgiving. My family was back east, so I always spent Thanksgiving with family friends who lived in Woodside, they had a son who was two years younger than me that I was good friends with. I had been surfing for around six months at the time, and I brought my board with me. There was no surf, surprising for that area for that time of year, it was waist high and sloppy, but I paddled out anyway. There were seals all over the place, I didn't really understand what that meant at the time.....
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  7. #4932
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Cruzing
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    ^^^souths are typically smaller. But there are a few deep water breaks that does something special to them.

    SoCal does much better with the south. But we also can get a bunch if wind swell in the summer generates off Mendocino that can keep things surfable in between. August can be rough for sure.

    OB is super exposed to the dominant wind so it needs legit off shore conditions. Thankfully there are other options that vary more.

    Surf is certainly a but tougher over all up here, but the Westside gets pretty groomed, clean and mellow.

    What Iím most fond of is the small nW wind and ground swells that filter in between the bigger longer period souths and northwest swell. Oh and the long periods west swells that light everything up.

    We have a hard time picking up steep souths and tropical swells. Points to OC for that.

  8. #4933
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,690
    The last three days have been decent at 36th. Far from epic, waist high, but pretty good shape on a morning rising tide. Some lined up lefts off the jetty, I'm learning to love the big board on small days with good shape. After a dip the water is back to 64. Things are supposed to change this weekend, finally.

  9. #4934
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    3,004
    We're leaving tomorrow, but things do not look very epic for ireland in the next week. But it's August and I knew that last year was exceptional.
    And there should be some swell until September 4th.....
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

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