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  1. #5476
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    3,166
    It's been a nice run of surf down here.

    After Trestles last Wednesday, I got a nice mid-morning session on Thursday north of the HB pier. I ended up paddling out around tower 16. It was clean and head high+, but the high tide was making it tough to connect to the inside. The current was absolutely insane, south to north, no point in fighting it given that I was going left. After 3 lefts, which were just a bit soft to hop my way into the inside, I decided I had time for one more pass and walked back down to tower 16. This pass the tide had dropped just enough, and it was a blast. What had been lefts that offered a bottom turn to a cutback before dying, were now lining up. You would still do a bottom turn to a cutback/top turn, but then they would stand up and you could just pump down the line, maybe bounce off the foam a few times. The second pass was awesome.

    Saturday I went back to my usual Trestles zone, got in the water around 11 am. It was shoulder high+, with the occasional head high set. It was fun, but the high tide made it soft early on. As it dropped my Barbedwires lefts started to line up. It was still a bit soft, but some of them would stand up enough to be playful and race through to the inside section, where you could bounce off the lip of the sourthern most right coming from Cottons. I stayed in the water around 3.5 hours, it ended up being lots of fun, although it could have used a tiny bit more juice. It started out crowded, but as the crowd thinned, a bit of wind bump but not too bad, you could just get left after left.

    Sunday I hit north HB pier again. It was fun, a bit bigger and punchier than Thursday. You had to pick and choose. The south to north current was even crazier, after a set would come it looked like a river running north on the inside section. You would start paddling out around 17th and finally make it out around 20th. I got a few really fun ones, then at the end of my second pass I got cleaned up and decided to call it a day. Classic mistake, go for an inside shoulder high one and miss it, turn around to see a set, hope I can make it to the bar where it's breaking, and don't make it. One of the things about that type of current is that you zip through the different zones so fast you don't get a sense of just how punchy, or not, a given sand bar can be.

    Today looks fun but I'm too busy. Hopefully the rest of you guys are getting some of this.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  2. #5477
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    2,794
    Little late on the post was down in SD for a wedding on 10/1, staying in PB. Was able to get out at Law Street on 9/30 and 10/1 on an 8' foamy. Pretty fun for the waves there, especially rolling with a group of 4 foamies including the groom the morning of the wedding

    Surf was bigger on Friday, probably shoulder high on the sets, and then about waist high and more consistent on Saturday. Both sessions were mid AM so no wind to speak of, perfect glassy conditions.

    No crowd on the peak we sat on, a couple set waves you could take to the beach. Really awesome conditions for my only sessions since June (and probably only ones until next spring).

  3. #5478
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Cruzing
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    11,577
    Just popping in to say Racetracks is such a good wave (and for that creepy lurker who tracks my life via the forum, yes, now my second time in Bali). Had two full dawns down at the beaches with the family and actually saw a little bit of surf. Waist to head high on the first day and this morning, but solid head high plus yesterday. After my dawn session I noticed the tail end of Racetracks was going mostly untrodden. Ended up in that zone for my late morning / mid day go out and scored so super fun waves. The Racetrack tends to be a bit smaller than waves further up the reef, but the inside actually gets bigger and hollower. There was for sure a current to co tend with, but with only a few people ever in that zone it was a great spot to sit. Mostly just the smaller waves were connecting through and most people didnít make it that far anyway, so you could pick and choose. My last two waves were fast, long, thick and hollow. Such a good session. Might be back for a third time soon.




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    Chillin at Bingin after a late morning session. Kiddo go his wave of his life and his beating of his life. Stoked for them. When small, itís a pretty good place for beginners. Even tho itís a hollow fast wave, the smaller ones are pretty easy to pick off and does not require much paddling.

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    Spent more time up in Ubud. Stayed in the home of someone I met when I was in Bali last trip. Off the main roads on a quite street. Hung out with their kids and chilled with the family. Super stoked to make that connection and be in a quite neighborhood just a 5 minute walk to the Kingís Palace. Took a bike tour through villages and rice paddies off the flank of Batur

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    Visited a few temples. This was one of my favorites with some of the structures dating back to the 11th century. Great to get my kid out to places older than a few hundred years. Theyíve been lucky enough to travel a bit, but Singapore does not have much left that is old.

  4. #5479
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Cruzing
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    It rained in Ubud while we were there. A lot. The family we stayed with said they have never seen so much water in October. And while they usually welcome the respite from the dry season, they had already had enough a few weeks earlier. They talked of climate change. We spent a rainy day cozying up with books and coffee and wakes into town for brunch and over to the Monkey Forest. It was much better than anticipated. We have plenty of monkeys in SG, but the land here is so much more interesting. When we bought tickets we were warned not too many monkeys would be out because of the rain. We were fine with the 200 or so we saw our and about.

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    Nosatara was a splurge by Bali standards, but well worth the cost if you love food. This was our starter platter for three. The place was to Indonesian cuisine what Alice Waters was to vegetable. Flavors and dishes from across the archipelago with tweaks from the local chef.

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    Also enjoyed these meals which were about $5 usd. And about a ten minute walk through town and 10 minutes up the ridge walk from our lodging.


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    If you are looking to come to Bali to surf the Bukit with the family, take a look at Green Escape Eco Resort. Clean bungalows, well kept grounds, salt water pool and great breakfasts included. Coffee, fresh juices, continental buffer and choose of entrees. My wife does not surf and was stoked on the place and location. Above Bingin, off the main roads with plenty of options to eat out nearby. Maybe not for everyone but worked for my family.

  5. #5480
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    here and there
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    17,648
    Nice!
    watch out for snakes

  6. #5481
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,166
    Looks amazing Ott!

    I realize you are not getting the quantity of surf sessions you are used to, but you are certainly making up for it in quality.

    The whole trip looks phenomenal.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  7. #5482
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Cruzing
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    11,577
    quality is decent for sure, but not super fine. Does not matter, tho. Ultimately we are getting a much broader experience than surfing. My kid (and all of us) are living the year in a place far from home, learning new ways, and how to manage our lives far from what we are used to. We are missing much about home: good friends, good beer (well, I am), snow, ease of communication, knowing our way around, a certain sense of dryness, cheaper living, our home and garden, etc - but we are experiencing new things, meeting new people, seeing new places, learning new ways to manage our world, etc. The overall experience is pretty amazing. Squeezing in a few surf sessions every month or so is just icing on the cake. Might return to Bali or Lombok next month, and then perhaps venture elsewhere as summer settles in. Who knows. Back at home today taking the bike out to stop at the market to grab produce and eggs, and off to the grocery store in a bit. Can'r really complain. Only bummer was my kid caught flu like sickness just after their surf session. It was just settling in in that pic above and he spent the next two days mostly chilling under a mosquito net in his bed. At least its not covid...

    Speaking of which, its so easy coming back into Changi (SG), unless you answer truthfully about your kid having had a cough and fever in the previous 7 days. He got pulled from the entry line (after we had passed through the gate) and pulled off to be tested. They eventually allowed me to go back through to sit with them while we waited for a doctor to read the test and confirm it was a negative result. And paid him $27 for his service. I asked the nurse - what if my kid had tested positive - and she told me we would have been advised to head straight home, which is exactly what we were attempting to do anyway.

  8. #5483
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,166
    Definitely far more than surfing in terms of the value of such a trip.

    It's always annoying when you answer honestly, have a bit of a nuisance, then find out that the advice would have been to do what you were going to do anyway. Strange times we live in.

    Orange County is going berserk today. I'm simply too busy to make a Trestles run, or even get out around here. I might try and do a Trestles trip tomorrow. It's probably not the best idea, and I do have a 2 pm zoom, but it looks so good that I just might have to. I need to stop looking at the Trestles cams....It is not helping me.

    I hope someone on the board is getting some in California right now.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  9. #5484
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    792
    Ottime if you like the RHCP they are playing Feb 16th at Singapore national stadium

  10. #5485
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Lakeside California
    Posts
    538
    Damn, thats cool OTT. Great to expose kids to a completely different way of life. And thanks for the non surf pics. Always great to see whats on land.

    I just did a three day RV campout with the grandkids at Doheny. Never surfed there. had a great time, luckily the south swell was firing. Kids did some boogey boarding and surfing and I caught a few on the shortboard

  11. #5486
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Cruzing
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    11,577
    Thanks for the concert tip, but I'm a poor man - can't afford to pay SG prices to go see a show. Nose bleed seats are likely in the $200 plus range. And besides, aren't those guys like super old?

    The reality of the most cover scene here - after two years of being closed to the outside world - is that every single event gets sold out very quickly and capitalism is king here - so with demand like it is, prices are high.

    I did like RHCP quite a bit back in 1987.
    Last edited by Ottime; 11-01-2022 at 05:48 PM.

  12. #5487
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
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    11,577
    I’ve got a window in late January to take off for a week. Thinking of surfing.
    Where will be good within a few hours flight of SG? Philippines should have waves but looks pretty onshore (ENE) that time. There are spots in Indo, but do I end up with a chance of a flat spell?

    Kind of wishing I brought ski gear cause lte Jan looks like good timing for a solo trip to Japow. Oh well.

  13. #5488
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    4,775
    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Iíve got a window in late January to take off for a week. Thinking of surfing.
    Where will be good within a few hours flight of SG? Philippines should have waves but looks pretty onshore (ENE) that time. There are spots in Indo, but do I end up with a chance of a flat spell?

    Kind of wishing I brought ski gear cause lte Jan looks like good timing for a solo trip to Japow. Oh well.
    Aceh. If there is swell....w7nd is perfect.waves are all right. Cemara is world class, but fickle.
    I haven't surfed lampuuk right at a beach further north. The other waves are in walking distance.
    Yudis place was nice.

    Check the forecast and be semi spontaneous.

    To maximise swell if you have to plan in advance I'd go to Sumbawa or Lombok, but i dont know about the wind then. You've been to Bali.

    Or: pacific indo. But I have no idea about budget options to get to the spots on the malukku islands.

    https://yudisplace.com/surfing/
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  14. #5489
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,166
    Fun weekend of surf down here. Hopefully I won't get sick.

    I got in a Friday mid-day session at River Jetties in Newport. It reminded me of why I love Newport so much when it has good sandbars. It was shoulder high, clean and lined up. It also had some zip and punch, something lacking in Huntington at that size. I was really stunned at just how much fun it was.

    Saturday was pretty much a carbon copy of my Friday session, except cleaner. By 11 am the tide had dropped enough that there were nice, lined up walls, both rights and lefts. It had that wonderful combination of standing up and having push, not not closing out.

    Sunday had a bit of wind bump, but it was still fun. Basically more of the same.

    These sessions reminded me of why I used to love Newport so much, back when it had better sand bars. I really wish they would stop whatever they are doing with the sand. A few years ago you would have seen peaks down to tower 68, right now they are good around tower 74 and north into the river, but anything at all away from the river is walled unless it is right at a jetty. When you get down to 36th street that changes, but the upper streets in Newport used to be much better.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  15. #5490
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    105
    Any east coast folks get some this weekend? I scored some nice Hurricane Nicole leftovers yesterday. Checked 5th Street OCNJ just after sunrise and there were already about 20 people out so I headed a bit farther south and ended up surfing solo for about an hour, then just splitting super fun shoulder high peaks with three other people for two more hours. Winter surf season is definitely upon us, as it was the first I've had to wear boots or a hood so far this season. Looks like I missed out on some (definitely outside my comfort zone) monsters on Saturday.


  16. #5491
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,166
    Wow!!! That's some punch.

    It's always funny to me just how fast the east coast flips, temperature wise.

    In Orange County October is typically 3/2 or maybe spring suit weather. You can usually go either way. In the morning you might want the 3/2 and on a warm afternoon maybe the spring, but it's usually in a range where either might work.

    If you get lucky you might be able to trunk it, but that is a bit rare.

    By November it is usually 3/2 weather, sometimes with booties.

    But that sort of swing is nothing compared to the east.

    Fun sessions out here on Friday and Monday. Both mid-morning with the tide high and coming up. There was not much swell in the water, but with the high tide there were some inside bars breaking at 9th street in HB that were fun at only waist high with a funshape. I am constantly reminded of how much fun those days can be on a board with some volume. It makes you open your eyes and realize that some of the days you might pass on can actually be really fun if you have the right tool.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  17. #5492
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    105
    Yup, the temps have been super wacky lately. I was out a week and a half ago and was sweating in a 3/2, because the air temps were almost in the 80s, but water was mid 60s. Now this past weekend, it's time for 4/3, boots, and a hood, and there were others wearing gloves as well. Looks like maybe more swell on tap for thanksgiving weekend, so I'll have a good fallback plan if I can't find a local WROD to entertain myself with.

  18. #5493
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Cruzing
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    11,577
    Quote Originally Posted by Long duc dong View Post
    Wow!!! That's some punch.

    It's always funny to me just how fast the east coast flips, temperature wise.
    Currents on the east coast - Gulf Stream and Labrador Current - change the water temp. They bring in warm or cold water so the change is quick and intense. Long Island would be 80F in early September and 40F in early March. I used to have a shortboard and a step up board when living in NYC. I also had a shorty, a 3/2, a 4/3, hooded vest, gloves, lobster claw mitts, 3mm boots, 5mm boots and eventually a 5 mil suit. I owned a suit quiver instead of a board quiver.

    West coast you cool the water down with upwelling, The larger shelf and Channel Islands work together to allow SoCal to warm up in summer and retain some warmth. Up in SC, there is almost no shelf and upwelling happens all spring and summer. Our water is coldest in spring and warmest in late fall/ early winter, mostly because upwelling stops through the fall/winter. Inside Monterey Bay, its warmest in late summer, because it almost acts like a shelf, but you need to be at Pleasure Point of Capitola to get that effect.

    In Singapore the water is always warm. And dirty. Like gross dirty. Ships obviously just dump all their crap off the boats as the anchor just off shore. Its too bad, as it would be ice just to float around in the ocean even if there are no waves, Bastards.

    And man, I forgot how NJ waves tend to just dump right onto the sand. Thats some juice just a few feet from the beach.

  19. #5494
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    risin up to paradise...
    Posts
    316
    I paddled out at first light today, my final day of a CA fall surf trip. An overnight bump in the swell and lucky timing the tide and I scored some perfect well overhead a frames in the Cardiff zone. It was the perfect icing to a fun trip. We camped at San Elijo and walked everywhere scouting peaks, seeing Swamis, and eating great food. Click image for larger version. 

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    Swell has been knee to shoulder for most of the trip, still super fun but it was fun to catch a couple on the head and feel a little juice.
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    We surfed the peaky reef waves around San Elijo and for the first time had the 13 y.o. in the main lineup. We rode a couple family party waves and she caught a few and was super stoked. It’s been busy with the holidays but really happy to get a great local vibe and friendly line ups.

    Headed back to ski season but if it stays dry in CA I’ll be back to the coast.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Last edited by Lee Murian; 11-27-2022 at 07:22 AM.

  20. #5495
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    16,747
    looks like youíll be surfing pow soon
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  21. #5496
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    593
    Quote Originally Posted by subtle plague View Post
    Aceh. If there is swell....w7nd is perfect.waves are all right. Cemara is world class, but fickle.
    I haven't surfed lampuuk right at a beach further north. The other waves are in walking distance.
    Yudis place was nice.

    Check the forecast and be semi spontaneous.

    To maximise swell if you have to plan in advance I'd go to Sumbawa or Lombok, but i dont know about the wind then. You've been to Bali.

    Or: pacific indo. But I have no idea about budget options to get to the spots on the malukku islands.

    https://yudisplace.com/surfing/
    Funny, i just left Yudi's a few days ago. Second the recommendation- good value, good waves. Easy access. Uncrowded shoulder season.

  22. #5497
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Hyperspace!
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    1,314
    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    I used to have a shortboard and a step up board when living in NYC. I also had a shorty, a 3/2, a 4/3, hooded vest, gloves, lobster claw mitts, 3mm boots, 5mm boots and eventually a 5 mil suit. I owned a suit quiver instead of a board quiver.
    heh - i wish, was in my 6/5/4 and reminded how hard it can be to pop up when wrapped in that much neoprene.

  23. #5498
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,166
    Nice shots Lee!

    That looks like a nice evening session.


    Thanksgiving week was nuts down here.

    It was overhead and orange the whole time.

    I got in a fun Tuesday session, then was gone until Friday afternoon. Saturday I went down to Trestles, surfed the Barbedwires area, and it was the best I've seen it in a long time. At least a foot overhead and very solid. It stayed clean for most of the day. I got in a nice 3+ hour session in the most solid surf I have seen i a while. It was crowded, but the crowd was just spread out enough to allow me to sneak in a few.

    I've gotten in a few HB pier sessions since, but nothing great, just fun and stomach high, good for a fun shape.

    Here are a couple of shots from Tuesday of Thanksgiving week. The pics don't do it justice.

    The last few shots are of a Bento Box I just picked up from Solid Surfboards in Ocean Beach. It's a mini-Simmons and it's a boat. It's 6'2" but it's got 54 liters of volume, 22.5 wide and 3 inches thick. It should be lots of fun in soft surf. Without much swell on the horizon I might take it out for a quick one tomorrow.

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    Last edited by Long duc dong; 12-06-2022 at 01:05 AM.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  24. #5499
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,098
    54L holy smokes.
    Thats like 2 boards in one

  25. #5500
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    California
    Posts
    2,719
    Went on a boat trip to Papua New Guinea a few weeks ago and most definitely got some. Pain in the ass to get there but the setup once you've arrived is pretty ideal. 3 tenders and a jet ski mean you can surf/dive/fish whenever you want and the lineups are literally empty with the exception of the other people on the boat. 100% would recommend.

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    Three fundamentals of every extreme skier, total disregard for personal saftey, amphetamines, and lots and lots of malt liquor......-jack handy

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