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  1. #5576
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    shadow of HS butte
    Posts
    6,506
    Not a surfer myself but was able to appreciate this article on the NJ surf from 12/18/2023, R”regarded as possibly the largest waves surfed in NJ’s history.

    Worth the read, insane photos:

    https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/m...-jersey/193222

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #5577
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    15' from MT
    Posts
    412
    ^^^^Damn, that is offshore as fuk!

  3. #5578
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    18,145
    Going off in CA. Probably been pandemonium at Mavs.

    A High Surf Warning is in effect through 3 AM PST Friday. Expect hazardous wave conditions with breaking waves 28 to 33 feet

    https://www.weather.gov/wrh/TextProduct?product=afdmtr

  4. #5579
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    7,580
    Looked pretty torn up in some of the videos, but it looks like Santa Cruz cleaned up a little in the afternoon. Northern Baja is probably firing.

  5. #5580
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    10,066
    Shirley someone has some tails to tell about the Wild West coast surf????

  6. #5581
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    1,331
    Quote Originally Posted by PB View Post
    Shirley someone has some tails to tell about the Wild West coast surf????
    I don't personally, but I did watch this very cool vid.

    The past is a foreign country; they do things differently there.

  7. #5582
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    18,145
    Some heavy tubes in here.


  8. #5583
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    10,066
    Now we're talkin'! Thanks guys!

  9. #5584
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,990
    Great vid. Where was that?

    Finally had a day were I felt like I was surfing. After a series of injuries in my mid to late forties and barely surfing the year I turned fifty living in Singapore, I was finally feeling adequately strong and on top of things mid November, but then went to visit my mom in Florida for a few weeks. I think I've surfed 6 days since then.

    Last week there was a fading 7@12 and building 4@15, along with some other stuff in the water. I had surfed my old favorite ledge as the bottom of a scary cliff the day before and surfed decently, but not quite on my game. I returned and the swell was just a little smaller (that 7@11 was popping from a 8@13), and the surface condition was super clean. Plenty of surf, but nothing clean up size, so you could sit on the inside, outside, corner, anywhere and not worry about getting drilled across the reef. Fucking killer season of head high plus surf. I finally remember how to get underneath and in the bowl for an easy take off, solid bottom and top turns. Nothing heroic, but it good to be back up on top of the horse.

    Of course, surfed two days later, in less than ideal conditions, with bigger surf, and did fine. But that I can blame of the bounce that day at least.


    Can't get up to the mountains to ski, so I'd be stoked for some more clear and clean days. Looks like after Tuesday we could be in for a nice run of local conditions.

  10. #5585
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    18,145
    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Great vid. Where was that?
    Comments indicate Ventura River Mouth.

  11. #5586
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,990
    Ah. Even more insane. I was in the mountains during the entire run of big swell, so never even saw it here. From chatting with friends who were around, most of them tell stories of surfing down south, especially Ventura, between Christmas and New Years. That is some solid surf for that zone.

    Been windy for past few days, Tried to find a window Monday, to no avail. Decided to MTB yesterday in Ord, instead of trying to make the surf work. Was over all a pretty good call. I'm sure there was a surf window in there somewhere, but the ride felt good. First time down there since returning home. Surf looked solid around the Sunset Beach area - I could see breakers from Route 1 as you peak the hill between Watsonville and Aptos.

  12. #5587
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,990
    Fun run up here now the weather has cleared. Would love to post pics but I can no longer log on in the ap or using browser on my phone. So..

    West Cliff yesterday afternoon for the easy session. Head high plus at John's. Swift looked fun, but there was a bit more wind on it out there and my buddy prefers not poking the beast too much. By low tide it was lining up pretty nicely through Getchels off the top of John's Been years since I've been out there. It such a fast zippy wave.

    This morning got back out up the coast at the old favorite slab. I was expecting head high wish based on the forecast, but swell really filled in and it was not small. Nabbed six waves in a little over an hour. No wipeouts, no getting sucked over the falls, no bailing the board. Few duck dives even, but one hell of a duck dive under a solid ten footer and my buddy a few yards deeper than me but sucked over the falls and driven deep from his duck dive. So a good session. Starting to feel confident again in solid surf, but really need to push the edge a bit harder. I had no wipeouts. Should have at least one. Tho I did go in because my leash snapped when I was pulling out of a bomb on the inside but let the wave grab my board as I flew over the back. Bye bye board. So I chased it in and called it a day. Glad to be back in the 8 foot plus and taking off deep and under the lip at rocky's.

    Next few days look nice if I can find a window.

  13. #5588
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,990
    Just found a new way to post pics and thought I'd share some pics from this winter.



    Fun days in September at Waddell

    Edit. That is not Waddell. The offshores looked wrong, and I checked and its Short Sands. Maine. A pic a buddy sent me. Ooops. That's East Coast stoke




    We had a few solid days at Rockies. It's taken some time getting back into a comfort zone at this place. The descent down the cliff is scarier than getting pounded on the reef.




    From the cliff.





    The left has been especially good this season. Usually it is just a big drop to almost a wave. Some days it was reeling better than the right.



    This woman has been stepping it up. She hopes to be on the Greek Olympic Team.




    The right is the real show tho.




    This place rarely gets crowded because the wave is so shitty. Sometimes shitty for 200 yards per ride.



    Another day of just a waste of time.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Ottime; 04-16-2024 at 03:05 PM.

  14. #5589
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,990
    From today. The reefs were quite crowded. I surfed here Tuesday through Thursday with never more than a pack of five. Swell dropped considerably, surface glassed off and the NW wind swell dropped to nearly nothing and the crowds arrived. Fifteen at the Corner with five suiting up and ten more watching. Banzai was even more crowded.




    There was a sandbar that was showing through the peak of the south. On Wednesday, it stepped way out. By Saturday, it was closer to shore. Still, the sets would break far across the outside, and while waiting for those, you are sitting pretty far out.




    The river is still flowing and empties into the ocean maybe a 100 yards north. So thinking this bar is going to stick around for a while.




    I've been surfing the left, but the rights starts to show more as the tide drops. When the tide is fuller, and the swell long period, it becomes a focal point and draws in a far amount of size. Mid to lower tides with smaller swell seems to be the ticket. Fun bar.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  15. #5590
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,285
    I actually had a couple of fun, though small, days in Newport this weekend at 36th street.

    It was only about waist high, but I caught it on a rising tide, while things were still clean, and took out the 7'6" fun shape and just glided.

    It's nice to get back in the water. I both days at Baldy on the last two weekends of April, then went up for a 4 day trip to Mammoth for the Cinco De Mayo weekend, and I've been busy due to an April 7-16 10th anniversary trip, so since I got back I've only had a few water days. It's always great to be reminded of just how much fun a waist high wave with good shape can be on a funshape.

    For our 10th anniversary trip, my wife wanted something beachy, so we chose somewhere with fun, although not world class, surf and warm water. We went to St. Barts, which lived up to its billing in every sense of the word. The island is unbelievable, we definitely want to go back. It is also incredibly expensive, which might limit our ability to go back soon.

    The waves there were fun, although the trade winds were shredding things, which limited what we could surf. We spent 7 days there and I got 4 surf days, with surf ranging from shoulder high and fun, but soft, to head high and quite a bit of fun. The water is close to 80 degrees.

    My wife got some lessons and had a blast. Despite having grown up in Huntington Beach, she is very cold water averse. She said that she would start surfing if the water would only warm up to St. Barts levels in Socal. Any day now...

    The season is basically winter for surfing there. There are a number of spots on the Island, and it does get fun. The winds can be an issue. We surfed our sessions at a place called Le Toiny, which is a beautiful cove, with a wrapping left point and some rights. It was the only place that was really sheltered from the trads, but ended up being lots of fun. There are a bunch of other spots, but most were blown out. I would love to go back some time and get it without the winds.

    Le Toiny doesn't pick up as much swell, anything from the north has to wrap around the island, but it got plenty while we were there. The other well known surfing beaches, Lorient and places like that, were just too shredded. There are lots of interesting setups, the surf guide/instructor for the resort gave us the lay of the land. It's a place for fun, not super heavy surf.

    The beach at the resort had swell the whole time, shoulder to head high, but it was basically shredded from the winds the entire time we were there. One evening, after we had surfed Toiny, it calmed down enough to be surfable, and I did see some people paddle out. There was what looked to be a really nice left point, I would love to get it without the wind.

    The local scene is pretty mellow. According to our guide, the Island has only about 5,000 inhabitants, and only about 100 of them surf. All the surfers know each other.

    All in all it was an incredible place. We would love to go back in early December some time, with swell and less wind. Without the wind, and with the ability to surf the beach right out front, it would have been perfect.

    The bottom tends to be mostly rock or reef, so reef booties are a good idea, or just be careful where you step.

    I didn't take any shots of the spots we surfed, these pics are just of the beach in front of the resort. The potential is there, the trade winds just needed to calm down.

    I should add that with these trade winds, they can sometimes just blow all day. In socal we're used to it almost always being calm in the morning. It was not like that here.

    Surfline is pretty useless for the island. Surf_forecast.come is better.

    Here are some shots of the beach in front of the resort.Click image for larger version. 

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    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

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