Anyone else get some today...?

**Ottime** · 08-18-2017, 06:34 PM

fkna today was sweet. I had a big window and ended up surfing for two hours, talking a half hour lunch and getting back in for 90 more minutes. Only left because I felt the need to act like an adult and get shit accomplished. A bit smaller than yesterday, but still head high sets. And it seemed like the new swell was filling in late with some rare plus sets. Longer wait between sets, but it was tube city out there today. Many I got in but not out, but perhaps more I more than that I was able to not only make it out, but find a rippable section waiting for me. Fog burned off at lunch. Almost oil glass. Super fun day, and I feel lucky I was able to get this on a day where not only can I surf, but I have a five hour window to work. Used it all basically to surf. Summer vacation day.

**Ottime** · 08-18-2017, 06:39 PM

Some cell phone pics from Thurs

And today

**jackstraw** · 08-21-2017, 08:59 AM

Where are you there? Is that one pic by Sewers?

**Ottime** · 08-21-2017, 12:03 PM

Nope. Up the coast. A few hundred yards south of the county line. Basically Waddell beach. Needed to get up and out of town to maximize swell with its SSE direction.

SW filled in late Friday and that was when the swell was just plain awesome. Saturday morning at the same spot looked pretty all time for the break, but 35 other people thought the same. After surfing Friday after with 8 people spread out over there take off points, it seemed a bit too crowded.

Head a bit south to a deep water break that really comes alive once the swell hits 4@20 from 235. The 2.5@16 from 195 was just enough to make it break. With a crowd of 4, it was the better choice, although it was not nearly as much fun as Friday. Still, it is a heaven spot and the one barrel I did get in was about three times as heavy as the day before. The type of tube you don't want to make any contact with.

Swell was still around Sunday but the south flow became wind and seemed to fuck things up. Surfed a reef picking up the north windswell that can handle a south wind decently. It was worth getting in for a hour. Now we wait.

Sure wish that Caine was moving a little more north or even north east. Great proximity, but looks like we will get nada.

**jackstraw** · 08-21-2017, 02:13 PM

Nice. That is where my son surfed mostly since he was with local kids right from the start. He's headed back across soon. Going to stop in Utah surf session behind my friends boat for something a little different.

**Ottime** · 08-22-2017, 01:41 PM

Last night was surprisingly fun at the county line. Oil glass and sunny. Mild air and warm for us water, in the low 60s. Waist to chest high with the occasional shoulder high wave. Fast and lined up. Super fun ripping up stomach and chest high waves that would reel for 75 yards or more. Totally unexpected. Saw the wind go slack and had a last minute play date for my kid, grabbed an egg and shortboard and headed out. Thought I'd be on slow, lumpy waist high rollers. Even pulled the egg out of the car and then saw a few sets roll in. So glad I grabbed the shirt board. Such fun, rippable waves. A little faster than perfect, but so many top carves, snaps, floaters, off the lip slips and slides and slaps.

Fingers crossed we get a Caine swell here on the central coast tomorrow and Thursday. Been a good run.

**Long duc dong** · 08-23-2017, 08:59 AM

I got back on Friday August 18th after two weeks in the upper peninsula of Michigan. The weekend was fun, close to head high in Newport although a bit walled. There were some corners to be found. Monday was chest to shoulder high and still fun, yesterday things dropped off a bit but I still got wet. Today I might pass. There were actually a couple of days where Lake Superior was surfable in front of our cabin, I have been going to the UP since I was a kid, and I have had numerous dreams about surfing there. It was waist high a couple of times, conditions I could take or leave in Newport but up there I really wanted a board for the novelty of surfing that place.

**Long duc dong** · 08-25-2017, 09:56 AM

For the first time in quite a while, other than when I was away, I won't be surfing today. It is pretty much flat here. This has been a great summer, not really epic very much, but you can get in the water just about every day. As someone who learned to surf in Santa Barbara I really appreciate that.

**alev** · 08-25-2017, 07:35 PM

looks like a similar track for Irma remnants that good ole gert took two weeks ago. Could be fun later this week in NE.

**Ottime** · 08-25-2017, 09:49 PM

Small up this way. Still some fun log rides as the sand bar is still good at cowells. Took the egg out to quartros, surfed and chatted. Minimal surf, but still really fun.

Vibes going out to Texas right now. Hope it all works out well there.

**liv2ski** · 08-27-2017, 08:33 AM

Ottime, those pictures from 10 days ago were great. I honestly have not seen anything that size all summer long. This has been the summer of my discontent for sure. Can't wait for October and hopefully some winter North West swells to help me out of my funk.

**Ottime** · 08-27-2017, 03:33 PM

One of the things I love about living up here. We get plenty of the NW juice, but certain spots do a great job of picking up the south swells. We were lucky with the timing of that last swell, where the coast north and west of town had calm winds. Typically in August that is a kite surfing zone due to the strong on shore flow. But when it goes slack, it can really light up with a south. Same swell, spots in town were not half the size. Still, summers can be frustrating waived for a south to hit. By the time fall is in full swing we are getting waves at that size and bigger 6 days a week.

Seems like this summer has been consistently small. Plenty of surf, but not a single solid S westerly swell. Mostly steep and less than 2' of swell. But at least we were often getting two or three of those swells at the same time and they would occasionally stack on top of each other.

On the days pictures we had a moderate SSE fading, small SSW building and a good amount of NW wind swell.

**Long duc dong** · 08-28-2017, 03:42 PM

Surfed 56th street today for 1.5 hours. Chest high, the occasional fun little left. Good lefts off the jetty but not good enough to deal with the crowd, so I went a couple of peaks up and had one almost too myself. The tide eventually got too high and made it a bit bouncy. Still fun after a flat weekend. It seems to be building.

**Ottime** · 08-29-2017, 08:26 PM

plenty of swell up here, just too steep for most spots. The county line was doing okay early, but the wind came up on it by 10am. Gonna check out a semi secret left that likes these steep swells. Always a gamble that place.

**Long duc dong** · 08-30-2017, 08:09 PM

Lots of fun today. I was able to get out early and head down for an afternoon Trestles session at Cottons. Super fun. About head high and lined up and glassy. A bit soft, but still tons of fun. Great shape. It was not even all that crowded, so I got wave after wave for 2.5 hours before my arms gave out. The water is in the high 60's and the air in the 80's, a perfect beach day. There were even some really good rights, It felt good to make some nice backhand turns. I really could not believe there were not more people out. I love Orange County this time of year.

**Ottime** · 08-31-2017, 06:15 PM

I've shifted away from the water and to projects and work. There is still that steep south in the water but I need to get shit done. That norpac is stirring.

**Ottime** · 09-02-2017, 08:39 AM

fucking hot out there. 99 yesterday and 104 forecast for today, in santa cruz.

I've got a bunch or terraces and stairs I'm building in our yard, and that was one of my two projects this week. I was about 3.5 hours into it yesterday when the shade went away. After ten minutes of that work in the sun, I decided a long lunch break in the ocean was needed. It has been kind of flat, with a too steep south in the water and a 8 sec wind swell. But it was hot so I went anyway. I love flat in Santa Cruz - knee to occasionally chest high surf. I rode the egg, but certainly good enough for a fish. Looking forward to the small ssw arriving tomorrow. Oil glass out there likely through the middle of next week. Might even get a nw late next week.

**whitekingsalmon** · 09-02-2017, 03:28 PM

Yawnnnnnnn...... oil glass jajajajaaaa

**Ottime** · 09-02-2017, 09:06 PM

Still oily today. Great day at the beach out here. Minimal swell. The reef was head high, but not thick. Stoked my kid was out having a blast paddling in the bay. Hot at the beach today. Even the water felt like it was warming up.

Hey kingfish, how about that beta? Do you know how to respond to a question directed at you?

**whitekingsalmon** · 09-02-2017, 10:11 PM

Glassy http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=glassy..

I've been a lil busy in the skiff fishin salmon and haven't been in tune with the real world.... what is it you want beta on and I can see how I can help ya.

**Ottime** · 09-03-2017, 10:43 PM

Originally Posted by whitekingsalmon

Glassy http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=glassy..

I've been a lil busy in the skiff fishin salmon and haven't been in tune with the real world.... what is it you want beta on and I can see how I can help ya.

Do you not read prior to posting? This is a communication board, just in case you were confused. If you are too busy, maybe stay focused on not here. Or save time and don't bother with your urban dictionary links. About pavonnes in June. Consistency, wave quality etc. is it worth a one week trip?

More oil out there today. Swell came up in energy today. Some real fun ones out there. Not a wisp of wind most of the day and still hot out. Spent three hours out in the 2mil. So comfy. Nice to get this warmth right at home. Perfect holiday weekend. Sunrise surf tomorrow and then another beach day with the kid.

**Ottime** · 09-04-2017, 10:53 AM

Got in the water around 6:15. Glassy again. Super clean and organized. Odd south wind started to blow and it was shredded to bits around 7:30. Strange weather we've been having. Cool today. Rained a short bit earlier. Was great while it lasted. Swell on tap for the next few days. Looks like we could get a decent NW late in the week, with more queuing up behind it.

**whitekingsalmon** · 09-05-2017, 11:14 AM

Yes I'm very busy..... you're like a lil dog trying to bite me then wanting a bone. But I will say if you only have a week stay north, but if there is good swell take the road south to turkeytown. Nobody other than the locals that live there and people that stay for a month or longer hang out and wait for swell. Our surf house is usually quiet other than a handfull of people that stay for long periods of time, but when there is surf the house is full. Wave quality is always the same, 2nd longest left in the world, 1000 yards of perfection. Since you have been so cool to me just tell me if you get down there, I will make sure you have a good time... jajaja

**Ottime** · 09-05-2017, 08:25 PM

That is all I needed. Thanks.

Still some out there today, but that oil glass is gone for now. Strange little storm off shore has us in a odd south flow with warmth and humidity. Surf was more like broken up beach break today. Watching a decent little nw fill in tonight and tomorrow. Will be fun to hit up some of the fall reefs in the afternoon when the wind is forecast to go slack.

jackstraw - when does your kid return. the npac is waking up.