Anyone else get some today...?

[PowerWhore7]

some more central america stoke in case anyone needs some stoke

Awesome man, super jealous...

[Ski to Be]

Great Pics Pig. Not sure why that dude would paddle right at the peak of the wave with guys in the lineup. Looks like the other dude dropped in on you. Is he your buddy?

[Long duc dong]

Keep posting Piggity. It definitely helps me through the week. That, and a good weekend of surf in Newport. Saturday the wind actually held off. I got in the water at 1130 and assumed it would be shredded by one. Instead, it actually got cleaner, and most timed their sessions to avoid the afternoon wind that is usual, leaving me with lots of clean head high peaks and not too many people. At least, not many for a head high Newport day with 69 degree water, sun, and a talent laden beach. There were so many peaks coming in that you could pick off wave after wave.

I'll ask the same question: Was that guy a blatant snake, or a buddy? I remember getting snaked by a local chick in Costa Rica wearing a thong. We were both surfing on our forehands, and I had a great view so I didn't mind. This is obviously not like that.

[Blizzard7763]

No pics to prove it, but I had a few good rides today. Frankfort, Michigan. 4-7ft. I'm new to this surfing thing, but it was fun.

[Piggity]

Thanks guys, photos help me get through the flat spells. Pretty sure that was the first time I met the guy, he was nice enough to let me surf behind him for the entire wave. More to come but can't post them from this computer

[icelanticskier]

Pretty sure that was the first time I met the guy, he was nice enough to let me surf behind him for the entire wave.

you mean you were nice enough to let him surf in front of you, right? i had this gal i know drop in on me this week on a gorgeous thick shoulder high right at the wall. she's a good surfer and she kept a constant steady speed the whole time. was actually kinda cool to $ sign her straight trim with t2b carves and cutbacks. we both kicked out at the same time and she was shocked that i never called her off the wave. well, the view didn't suck for me

pleeze don't take my "technique" input the wrong way. surfing is always a humbling challenge and i get plenty of constructive criticism from a few friends that are much more polished and adept than i am.

thanx again for posting such beauty wave shots. are you pretty much just riding the slacker now? i was looking into a dozer for round here. i def have had big breakthroughs recently on the new kechele tho, so we'll see. always impressed with rusty shapes.

rog

[Ottime]

No pics to prove it, but I had a few good rides today. Frankfort, Michigan. 4-7ft. I'm new to this surfing thing, but it was fun.

Lake surfing is nutty. Good for you. Just wait until you hit salt water which floats you more, not to mention ocean waves that lift you more

ski to be. The guy duck diving quite possibly took off on the previous peak,dug the nose and went down right there. At that point, you pretty much paddle right through a wave like that, instead of paddling around the entire thing.

Got some 7@11 hitting today with favorable winds. Wife is home from work in 9 hours. Woot

[Piggity]

Skitobe, I think ottime is probably on point with a previous wave. The 2nd swell had peaked that morning and there were a lot of people surfing on 2 different take off zones, so you would have to thread the crowd on a lot of waves. To be fair to the guy in front of me on the wave, he had no idea I was there since I had just come around a decent size section off the drop.

icelantic, I didn't take that wrong. I know I never have been and never will be a ripper. I could take a billion pointers and still be just as bad as I ever will be. For me, I can go from blowing the takeoff on a beyond easy wave to somehow getting a turn off that no one expects on the very next wave. I'm outta shape, in my late 30's, 2 torn acl's and a billion other excuses I would love to use. The fact is, I still have fun with all those obstacles. It only takes 1 sick wave per session to get me amped up.

I would also take a look at the Tdwart if you are looking at the dozer. I think I'm going to get a Tdwart for small waves and then use the slackerr on chest to few feet overhead days. I thought about also adding a slayer for anything from 1.5x's to DOH+. I haven't surfed the Tdwart or slayer but I've checked them both out, and if they are anything near as fun as my slackerr then me likey

[Ottime]

One sick wave? You guys are greedy. I'm happy when I get three decent waves in a session. Not sick, just decent. Actually, that has been my goal every time I hit the water for at least twenty years now.

Now, if I get one sick wave, I'm super stoked.

Got some decent rights last night. At least three. I gotta say, nw wind swell makes me much happier than inconsistent, dribbling, weak, steep and sometimes no-showing southies. Summer is over. Finally. Bring on the west swell please

edit typo "suck" to "sick"

[Long duc dong]

Got some decent rights last night. At least three. I gotta say, nw wind swell makes me much happier than inconsistent, dribbling, weak, steep and sometimes no-showing southies. Summer is over. Finally. Bring on the west swell please

Interesting how different that is from down here. We get so much S-SW energy that I really love summer and early fall. This time of year usually pumps down here for the Trestles area, and HB/NB are good too, although sometimes too walled on the big souths. I drive down to Trestles more in August and September than in October, as that is combo swell time for the beachbreaks.

Actually, I don't surf all that much in October. The last month before an actuary exam is hell, you go from studying 2-3 hours every morning before work and one 8 hour day, usually Friday, to studying 2-3 hours every morning and 8-10 hours Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. It really sucks to miss the medium water temps, combo swell A-frames, and offshore winds, but oh well. This fall I am taking an exam cycle off for the first time in years, so hopefully late sept/oct will deliver, it always seems to when I'm being driven insane by Pareto and log-normal distributions.

I will also get to party on Halloween for the first time in years, an evening which can rival the Salt Creek summer viewing.....

[jtran10]

Looking like a windy post-work session today in Carlsbad. Heading up to Mammoth to hike/camp tomorrow after work, so plan on going out anyways.

Need to try to make it up to Trestles sometime in the next week plus. How long is the walk down to the beach for Cottons? 15 mins?

[Ottime]

^^^don't get me wrong, it is far from firing with these wind swells. Just, unless everything is coming together for a south, as in 1) it actually shows up 2) has decent sizw (3-4 foot deep water plus) 3) the winds cooperate 4) the tides cooperate, then you can often be waiting, in a crowd, for a set to show up, and when it does, it is almost a really good wave, but not quite. Or your just in the wrong spot, and miss the entire set. OTOH, the nw wind swells usually don't offer up a great wave, but you get so many damn waves, that one, or two, or ten are really fun. And usually no one is bothering with chasing down anything with less than a 13 second period.

When we do get a 4@20 from 215, and the wind is dead, and tide is medium full, but not moving much all day, I am super stoked and know just where to go.

My favorite time of year around here is Sept-Nov, when the north starts to churn up. The nw has so much more energy associated with it, and way way way way more consistent. When we start to get off shores and early season west swells with periods from 12-18 seconds and ranging from chest high to double over head, it gets pretty damn fun. And way more spots start to break and the crowds spread out over the entire county.

I surfed my favorite spot yesterday. It is best between 8@12 and 10@15, IMO. The 4.5@10 I chased yesterday afternoon should have been just enough to make it disappointing. Generally, it needs at least 6@10 to make it go. turns out the cliff walk down is more treacherous than it has been in years. I was out there less than a month ago, and two entire sections recently broke off. It is kind of fall and very bad things happen kind of place. First I paddled out at the out at the south reef, because the n wind was a bit cross/off over there. When the winds backed down, I headed north, cause the south reef kind of sucks unless it is 5@18 from due west. Then it is sick. sick. Anyway, what I noticed next was the reef was covered in sand. About six feet of sand has moved in sometime in the last 30 days. Amazing. So, anyway, that is why I am stoked for some mini nw swells to come our way, because my favorite slab, is now filled in and a crazy sand slab that was making for some super fun waves as the tide filled in.

Piggity, it does not to me like you are leading with you back arm, but rather you are swinging at the hips across the bottom of your turn, in order to project up the face. Kind of like whipping into a tighter arc. If that is the case, I don't think that is bad form. In fact, that is better than just using your momentum to throw into turns, me thinks.

[icelanticskier]

heh, ya, one hit wonder sessions. i'm good at those.

rog

[Long duc dong]

Looking like a windy post-work session today in Carlsbad. Heading up to Mammoth to hike/camp tomorrow after work, so plan on going out anyways.

Need to try to make it up to Trestles sometime in the next week plus. How long is the walk down to the beach for Cottons? 15 mins?

About 15. It takes about 20 minutes to get from parking too into water, which includes putting on sunscreen and wetsuit. It depends how far down the road you have to park, but if you use the woodsy path it cuts a bit off the walk when you have to park way towards Pendleton.

Enjoy it jtran10. I love Cotton's on smaller shoulder high days sometimes. If the tides are right, and you have a board with some glide it can really be great.

I will be able to get an evening Friday session in Newport, than maybe a Sunday session. I'm going to Vegas for the weekend to try card sequencing and card steering as Ben Mezrich and Semyon Dukach taught me in "Busting Vegas."

Actually, that's bullshit. I will be hanging at the pool. Those techniques work if you put in about a thousand hours of practice, which I have not.

[jtran10]

Well myself and everyone else under forecasted this evening's conditions. 5 people out,building swell with incoming tide, wind not as high a forecasted. Had 3 nice waist/chest high waves, but the memorable one was a chest high super clean left that seemingly went forever. What a feeling. Loved looking in front and seeing unbroken wave all the way down the line,and surfing it all the way to the shallows.

I'd previously had trouble not pearling when waves got above waist high, but really got it down tonight. Angled correctly, quick pop and make the turn onto the face. A couple days ago I wasn't sure if I was ready for bigger swells yet, but now I can't wait to get after it.

Either way, stoked to check out Mammoth. First time up in the high Sierra since moving here.

[jtran10]

http://www.surfline.com/live/

Surfline streaming live from Trestles right now (in advance of the WT stop I'd assume)

[Piggity]

I think my definition of sick wave could come down to 1 nice turn that I've never felt before. But 3 waves are nice also, I try to find something to replay all day long.

I critiqued the photos before any posts on here and I've mind surfed those waves over and over. I need to open my front shoulder as much as my back shoulder. I also need to start doing some round houses to build up more speed. Sounds like you guys are already seeing some action up that way, good stuff.

Jtran, sounds fun. Angling your board down the line on the drop will be a big step in getting some fun waves. You're comfort level will naturally raise after your first winter. Spend some time in the pool for a few weeks to get your shoulders in paddle shape, come October we sometimes get NW/SW combos with santa ana's, only a few weeks away. If you need info on spots then I can share all that I've learned since moving here, hit me up if you need

[ilikecandy]

Looking like a windy post-work session today in Carlsbad. Heading up to Mammoth to hike/camp tomorrow after work, so plan on going out anyways.

Need to try to make it up to Trestles sometime in the next week plus. How long is the walk down to the beach for Cottons? 15 mins?

take a bike or a skateboard

[jtran10]

Jtran, sounds fun. Angling your board down the line on the drop will be a big step in getting some fun waves. You're comfort level will naturally raise after your first winter. Spend some time in the pool for a few weeks to get your shoulders in paddle shape, come October we sometimes get NW/SW combos with santa ana's, only a few weeks away. If you need info on spots then I can share all that I've learned since moving here, hit me up if you need

Thanks Piggity - may need to take you up on that.

Weekend hiking around Bishop and camping at the Hot Tub was pretty amazing. Can't wait to get up there once it starts snowing. Beautiful part of the country that I'd never seen.

It sounds like the surf was on this weekend around here. Any reports? Forecast looks to be consistently bigger as the week moves on. I guess that's fall coming

[Long duc dong]

Yesterday (Monday) I had lunch down at my buddy's pad on 54th (Newport) and seashore, mountainside. It was pumping between 52 and 56, about head high+ and clean, but north of the 56th jetty was going off, probably 2 feet overhead and clean. The smaller, head high sets were nice and lined up too, so the medium crowd seemed to all be getting their wave count. It was lining up nicely, although occasionally a bit walled. It would actually seem a bt more walled than it was though, I saw many peaks come in that I wrote off, only to see them line up. There were barrels to be had, and it absolutely blew me away.

My buddies work in outside sales, and they had just gotten out after a 3 hour session. It was REALLY tough to go back to the office. I did not expect it to be even close to that good, for some reason it was really focusing in west Newport, particularly 56th street. I wish I had a good camera, as I would have taken some pics.

It looks like late this week should be good. Thursday glass-off and Friday afternoon sessions look to be the call. Somehow I have a feeling Christianitos will be packed with cars from me and other office drones on Friday.

I really need to get a good camera. It kills me not to have pics to post from yesterday.

[supermodel159]

NPAC is looking good. Bring on the Fall.

[Ottime]

I really need to get a good camera. It kills me not to have pics to post from yesterday.

The best thing about any pic is composition. Shoot with your cell phone if you need to. It will look fine on a computer, for the most part, and will convey the image. Then, you may find yourself starting to carry a cheap p/s everywhere. At that point it may be worth looking into a good, entry level slr, and really playing around. But seriously, if you are sitting there, enjoying your lunch, and looking at head high peelers, just pull up the phone, and snap one without even getting up. Could turn out to be a pretty good pick depending on what your eating.

So, those must have been from the tropical swell. I saw a little of that in the water up here, so I tried to score at one of my old/new favorite mysto left hander breaks that sometimes, but rarely, goes, and goes very well. I think I got one good left, but alas, I think the tide was just a bit too low. Hard to tell at this spot just what is needed for the left. The right is more well know and reliable. I got a few of those, but the angle was too steep for sure. Fun quick solo mission none the less. And I got to swim with some porpoises who decided to cruise the reef.

Oh, and the nice thing about a (smart) cell phone pic is how quick and easy you can load it to the web.

And yes SM159, things do look nice indeed. The mid and long term models have been consistent enough to suggest things will start late this week and continue through the next few. It may even get significant, if you can believe 14-16 day model runs.

I mean look at this

[supermodel159]

^^ I've been looking at that...It has a lot of west in it, so the locals around here have been talking.

[Piggity]

I like this PAC NW thing you guys speak of. Got a few waist-Chest to occasional shoulder high low tide drainers before work this morn.

[jtran10]

I also went out before work for 45-50 minutes this morning. Surf was up a bit, but not very lined up. Between trying to find a good peak to be at and dodging the Carlsbad HS surf team only got a handful of waves, none that notable. Highlight was making the drop on a chest high + left that unfortunately closed out within a couple seconds.

Gonna go out again this PM at Tamarack. These tides not really helping the 9-5 work schedule down here!