Anyone else get some today...?

**Superstar Punani** · 09-29-2011, 02:15 PM

Originally Posted by BS720

Sloat was pretty big yesterday morning

That was some fun shit, especially on a little 6'6 step up

**boltonoutlaw** · 09-29-2011, 03:57 PM

8 September, Rhode Island:

2 September, Oregon:

**Ottime** · 09-29-2011, 06:56 PM

Originally Posted by Superstar Punani

That was some fun shit, especially on a little 6'6 step up

Looks like it was cleaner up there. The lane was super crisp and lined up. North it was chunky, shifty and surprisingly thick for the 12 second period it was showing at sunset. A lot smaller tonight, but still some fun head high things to play around on. Super clean. September has been fun.

**liv2ski** · 09-29-2011, 09:54 PM

Originally Posted by Superstar Punani

That was some fun shit, especially on a little 6'6 step up

Shit, sad to say, I am uncertain my old ass would have been able to paddle out through that. Give me a reef break with a channel all day long.

**BS720** · 09-29-2011, 11:35 PM

What time was this? Looks like noon, I'm guessing? There was a little channel at Noriega that helped a bit. I love the twofer days!

**Ottime** · 09-30-2011, 08:21 AM

Originally Posted by liv2ski

Shit, sad to say, I am uncertain my old ass would have been able to paddle out through that. Give me a reef break with a channel all day long.

Yup. It always seemed funny to me when SC surfers make fun of, give shit to, etc. SF surfers. The city boys paddle circles around us blessed with points to jump off of and channels to paddle out through. Scotts can be pushing 15-20 feet and with the sand, tide and swell just right - a dry hair paddle out. Middles can be just as big, and you meely need to time jumping off the point. You almost forget how to duck dive.

**Superstar Punani** · 09-30-2011, 08:42 AM

Originally Posted by BS720

What time was this? Looks like noon, I'm guessing? There was a little channel at Noriega that helped a bit. I love the twofer days!

11ish. My drive to work involves going thru the Great Hwy and a surf check of all of OB. So if the surf is looking good or fun, then I end up "working from home" just like on powder days.

**Piggity** · 09-30-2011, 10:36 AM

So if the surf is looking good or fun, then I end up "working from home" just like on powder days.

That's my work schedule too!

**Ottime** · 09-30-2011, 11:34 AM

Originally Posted by Superstar Punani

11ish. My drive to work involves going thru the Great Hwy and a surf check of all of OB. So if the surf is looking good or fun, then I end up "working from home" just like on powder days.

It worked out kind of that way for me. Before I was a papa. Just saying.

Now, it is not so bad. Stay home with the boy. Keep him alive and happy. Stock the house. Tidy things up. Manage to have dinner ready to go. Grab a surf when mom gets home.

Not as flexible and some times you get screwed by winds or tides. But developing a daddy exchange so we can all take turns surfing to not miss as many good surfs. Hopefully we are ready for the arrival of fall.

Still trying to figure out how that powder day is going to work out. --Hey Mom, wanna come visit for a few days? I am sure the mrs. would love to spend a few days with my mom while I ski. Got to figure out how to play that one.

**Piggity** · 09-30-2011, 02:09 PM

^1 kid was still a breeze to get 2 surfs in a day if I wanted, 2 kids has cramped my style a bit. It's worth it though and they will soon be right behind me during paddle outs and skiing down the hill. Maybe they'll be in front of me paddling out and skiing down the hill, we'll see 'bout that though

**Piggity** · 09-30-2011, 02:19 PM

I only mention that because you will eventually dial in a schedule that will work for you and the fam

**BS720** · 09-30-2011, 02:51 PM

Originally Posted by Ottime

Yup. It always seemed funny to me when SC surfers make fun of, give shit to, etc. SF surfers. The city boys paddle circles around us blessed with points to jump off of and channels to paddle out through. Scotts can be pushing 15-20 feet and with the sand, tide and swell just right - a dry hair paddle out. Middles can be just as big, and you meely need to time jumping off the point. You almost forget how to duck dive.

Sure, I will. But you SC surfers have better pack ethic. When it's ginormous at OB, and I'm paddling for my life, usually I make it outside and I'm alone, mid-beach. If it's smaller and crowded, and I'm being back-paddled, usually it's a guy with a hotline wetsuit, an M10 board with twenty stickers on it and a crazy spray. Every time I surf the lane it reminds me that I need to remember how to surf with a crowd. That's a skill, and it's a funky one. Hats to you guys for being so good at it.

**supermodel159** · 09-30-2011, 05:28 PM

Originally Posted by BS720

Mav's was 12-15' and clean today. Nobody out, due to some fuckhead getting buzzed by a grey suburban last night. Best way to surf Mavericks=post shark scare.

Was it stolen or something?

**BS720** · 10-01-2011, 12:12 PM

I am a pottymouth. I didn't get a chance to run the VIN. I would imagine it was from AK, and just down here on vacation. The guy described it as "this wide", and had his arms extended.

**Ottime** · 10-02-2011, 09:31 PM

I figured out how to move among the herd when I first moved here 15 plus years ago. I had no car and the lane was really the only option within walking distance. It is not something I would say that I enjoy. In short, you either need to put blinders on and not give a damn about humanity (be a selfish prick) or, not get any waves. The most recent time I surfed there, I totally snaked someone to get a wave. I was feeling guilty and about to yell "go", when he stopped paddling and hotted at my awesomeness. According to the rules at the slot, it was my wave, because I was the better back paddler.

I much prefer to surf up north, where the code is a bit more gentlemanly. And in the fall, it is a bit bigger, rawer and more powerful to boot. Anyway, one to take away - chokes was pretty fun on Saturday. Glassy, head high ish and just four to five guys in the water.

This spot honestly needs a bit more swell to be really working, but this is not too bad.

It was pretty consistent for four.

**Piggity** · 10-02-2011, 11:21 PM

Talking about Lineups, I'm kinda sweating the Hawaii trip we just booked. I've done North shore several times during preseason October NW's but this visit is going to be in January. Im also rolling with 1 less intact acl this time, I don't feel prepared

**Piggity** · 10-02-2011, 11:22 PM

I can't get those photos to load on an iPad for some reason

**Ottime** · 10-03-2011, 11:15 AM

Originally Posted by Piggity POW

Talking about Lineups, I'm kinda sweating the Hawaii trip we just booked. I've done North shore several times during preseason October NW's but this visit is going to be in January. Im also rolling with 1 less intact acl this time, I don't feel prepared

What island? January will just mean it is more consistent. If it gets huge, you can enjoy the show. But the really big stuff rarely last more than a day. I spent a month on Kauai years back. December. We got two big swells during that period. At their height, I was humbled, and severely under gunned. Still found places to go and get in the water. As for the crowds - I found that general respectful behavior, and basic tube competency, earned you some killer waves. And if that did not work, you just surfed the less crowded spots. They did exist.

My advice - put on a thick old wetsuit and paddle. Or pick up rocks under water and start running.

Looks like that NZ storm did fairly well and by week's end we could have the last decent south of the season. And perhaps some NW to follow.

**Piggity** · 10-03-2011, 01:24 PM

Oahu, that's our usual since the sis-in-law lives there. You guys were talking lineup jockeying and we just booked our tickets so I started thinking about the lineup jockeying I'll face in January. October is pretty mellow because usually there is some south and north shore action so the crowds are fairly spread out. I'll definitely be in a full suit running rocks underwater out at rocky point each morning! Maybe V's if I'm feeling really daring

**Superstar Punani** · 10-04-2011, 09:17 AM

Originally Posted by Piggity POW

Talking about Lineups, I'm kinda sweating the Hawaii trip we just booked. I've done North shore several times during preseason October NW's but this visit is going to be in January. Im also rolling with 1 less intact acl this time, I don't feel prepared

Plenny haole surfers but we blow 'em away brah!

**Piggity** · 10-04-2011, 11:46 AM

Are red shorts the new black shorts? I need to go buy some red shorts so I can blend in better. I dig the photo

**shera** · 10-05-2011, 07:44 AM

Originally Posted by Piggity POW

I'll definitely be in a full suit running rocks underwater out at rocky point each morning!

Why? What does this do for you?

**icelanticskier** · 10-05-2011, 10:27 AM

just one of those mornings that my mind will drift back to for years to come. perfect. a-frame wholesome goodness. not big, but plenty of punch. waist/chest with plenty of head high drops, a few bigger. light offshore winds held the rights up perfectly. the new 5'9" lost rocket was made for these waves. getting vertical was almost too easy with lots of little tail slide action on the cut backs.

now how to leave work early if things hold up?

definitely top 3 sessions out of about 100 since late april.

rog

**Ottime** · 10-05-2011, 11:15 AM

Originally Posted by SheRa

Why? What does this do for you?

Helps with getting his ass whopped.

The rocks under water thing is an old school big wave surfer training regime. Gets you ready for brutal hold downs.

Any south showing yet in SD?