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  1. #5551
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    5,844
    Damn pic 2
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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  2. #5552
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Van City and Whistler
    Posts
    2,026
    Looks epic. Ireland?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  3. #5553
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Galena
    Posts
    1,079
    I'm way up in the farthest reaches of Nor Cal on a fire assignment. Fire activity was minimal today so I got a chance to get away for a few and took a quick run out to the coast to check the waves out. Out of respect for the locals I'll leave the name of the beach out but I'm sure you could figure it out by the rocks in the background.

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    It was sunny and glassy with some fun 2-3 ft high tide lefts rolling through.

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    This is right out in front of the town, super easy access.

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    I checked it out for 30 minutes or so and saw one guy out. Compare that to SoCal.
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  4. #5554
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Galena
    Posts
    1,079
    Still in Northern Cal on assignment at the Smith River Complex. Got another chance to head out to the coast and for a quick surf check today.

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    Waves were a little smaller but super clean and the winds were straight off shore all day. Smoke from the fire is visible in the background.

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    Looked really fun, but also really cold.

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    There was a hollow right that was breaking along side this jetty.

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    Saw tons of empty, fun peaks with nobody on them.

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    Miles of fun empty beach break with a grand total of two guys out.

  5. #5555
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    risin up to paradise...
    Posts
    355
    ^^^Sweet!! That's my go-to spot, looks like you scored some fun conditions! I drove over right when they reopened the road and there were only 2 others surfing Labor Day weekend with chest high offshore waves...I love that zone; the Redwoods and drive along the Smith to uncrowded waves with a handful of reefs within a couple miles. It's fickle, but if your patient, it has it's moments, and mid 50's water is pretty nice!

  6. #5556
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,691
    Not much surf for me this year, got down for good swell but horrible winds, this is a protected spot. Had a few but spent more time paddling our asses of not to end up in the bay. Hour surf felt like 2+ worth.


    Next day same spot, much cleaner and current lower made for a good 2 hrs. Way they shaped up made for a fun faded takeoff to the right, before they bounced off rocks to get a good left remainder of the wave.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #5557
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    MA/VT
    Posts
    102
    Hopping in here bc it’s been pretty consistent and fun the past month or so and forecast looks like more on the way! Somewhere between Boston and Portland.


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    On a related note - anyone in this area looking for a board? I have a 6’10 Eric Arakawa “fun board” that I got from another mag a few years ago that I need to move and would love to get it into the hands of another maggot. 39.9 liters - it’s a great board and served me well but I downsized to a 6’0 CI happy everyday and I’m not looking back.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  8. #5558
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,289
    Nice shots guys!

    August and early September were good here.....I was out of the water, so I figured that might happen. I tried not to look at the cams, but it's tough.

    I got cleared by the Dr. to start surfing again. I got in a couple of mid-week sessions in HB, then surfed the HB pier both Saturday and Sunday. Nothing epic, but nice to be back in the water.

    I will say this surgery worked like a charm. My vision is 20/20, and I've been in contacts/glasses full-time since I was 15. I still need reading glasses, but I knew that would be the case going in. I'm not 100% yet, if I get sunscreen in my eyes it stings more than usual right now, particularly in bright sun, so I do have to be a bit careful, but medically I'm out of the woods.

    It doesn't look like there is much swell of any significance that will hit us any time soon. That's okay, it's nice just to be back in the water. The Bento Box is working like a charm in the softer conditions. I highly recommend one to anyone interested in something with the volume of a fun shape compacted down into something squirty, and easier to turn.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  9. #5559
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    here and there
    Posts
    18,679
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    watch out for snakes

  10. #5560
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Tech Bro Central
    Posts
    3,257
    First winter swell of the season arrived in Maui yesterday. I got this picture this morning around 7:30 -- it's Kanaha Lowers, which is usually pretty sleepy. There were probably twice as many folks out yesterday AM. Shot from about a mile away.

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    I kitesurfed Kanaha Uppers & Camp One yesterday afternoon. The bigger sets were head high to overhead. I heard Hookipa was good.

  11. #5561
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,289
    The weekend I headed down to Trestles to surf the Cottons/Barbedwires area for the first time in 3 months.

    Saturday I went down mid-day. I wanted to miss the high tide, and figured a bit of wind bump would be worth it. Uppers was shoulder to head high, where I was surfing was more like shoulder high+, if that makes sense.

    The wind ended up being on it more strongly than I thought it would be. I got a couple of fun lefts, but for the most part it was pretty bumpy. It kept getting worse and worse, which I hadn't anticipated. The water was warm, so I figured why not stay out, and I ended up surfing for 2.5 hours. It was nice to be back at that spot, but the wind bump combined with my feeling out of synch, I felt like I was behind just about every section, made for a frustrating session. By the time I got out it was blown to shreds.

    Sunday I went down a bit earlier. I figured a high tide would be worth avoiding the wind. It ended up being lots of fun. It was shoulder to head high, and a bit soft from the tide. Still a blast though, if you could get through the first dead spot it would really line up across the inside, and you could bounce off the end section of the southernmost right at Cottons. The water was warm, about 66 degrees according to Surfline, and it was sunny. I ended up staying in the water for about 3.5 hours. There were lulls, particularly where I was, so it wasn't a massive wave count day, but the lefts were really fun. I took the Bento Box and was glad I did, the extra glide helped get through the dead sections and when you figure out that you can turn it off the tail the glide makes top turns and bouncing off the lip in soft waves fun. It has the feel of a funshape, but it's far more maneuverable, due to only being 6'2". It really is a great board for that wave when the tide is a bit high. I didn't really feel like I wanted something snappier, as anything with lower volume would have made beating the dead zone tougher, and I wouldn't have wanted a true fun shape as it would have been less maneuverable.

    It ended up being my best session since before I got my surgery. Not epic, but lots of fun.

    Here are a few shots:
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    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  12. #5562
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,289
    The weekend I headed down to Trestles to surf the Cottons/Barbedwires area for the first time in 3 months.

    Saturday I went down mid-day. I wanted to miss the high tide, and figured a bit of wind bump would be worth it. Uppers was shoulder to head high, where I was surfing was more like shoulder high+, if that makes sense.

    The wind ended up being on it more strongly than I thought it would be. I got a couple of fun lefts, but for the most part it was pretty bumpy. It kept getting worse and worse, which I hadn't anticipated. The water was warm, so I figured why not stay out, and I ended up surfing for 2.5 hours. It was nice to be back at that spot, but the wind bump combined with my feeling out of synch, I felt like I was behind just about every section, made for a frustrating session. By the time I got out it was blown to shreds.

    Sunday I went down a bit earlier. I figured a high tide would be worth avoiding the wind. It ended up being lots of fun. It was shoulder to head high, and a bit soft from the tide. Still a blast though, if you could get through the first dead spot it would really line up across the inside, and you could bounce off the end section of the southernmost right at Cottons. The water was warm, about 66 degrees according to Surfline, and it was sunny. I ended up staying in the water for about 3.5 hours. There were lulls, particularly where I was, so it wasn't a massive wave count day, but the lefts were really fun. I took the Bento Box and was glad I did, the extra glide helped get through the dead sections and when you figure out that you can turn it off the tail the glide makes top turns and bouncing off the lip in soft waves fun. It has the feel of a funshape, but it's far more maneuverable, due to only being 6'2". It really is a great board for that wave when the tide is a bit high. I didn't really feel like I wanted something snappier, as anything with lower volume would have made beating the dead zone tougher, and I wouldn't have wanted a true fun shape as it would have been less maneuverable.

    It ended up being my best session since before I got my surgery. Not epic, but lots of fun.

    Here are a few shots:
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    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  13. #5563
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    12,003
    Big up in Santa Cruz yesterday. With the mid to full tide most of the day made for lump and bump action. Tide pulled out toward evening, but a thick fog invade the immediate coastline, making it hard to see. Still some size out there today, but town looks quite a bit more mellow. Weird fall up here so far. Yesterday was near 90F before that fog rolled in and dropped us to 65F. It was fun to get back out on the 8'4", even if I did spend most of my time looking out on it. Need to relearn how to ride that thing.

  14. #5564
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,289
    I got in a quick, mid-morning session yesterday in Newport, 32nd street.

    It was about chest high+, not as big as the upper streets or HB, but the shape was pretty good once I figured out that there was quite a bit of NW (or maybe WNW) and I had to reorient myself with the sand bars. While S/SW stuff tends to bend around the jetties and be a bit more left-centric, the winter angles tend to bend around the northern jetties and make rights, if that makes sense. There were only a few of us out, and it was punchy and fun for the size. Once I got dialed I found a nice little sand bar.

    The water is still warm, around 66, and I was able to wear a spring suit.

    It's always great when I can get a mid-day session in Newport. The added punch at chest high, compared to Huntington, and the closer distance to my house mean more water time and more fun/per foot (is that a metric?) for a short session. The short paddle-outs in Newport are an added bonus.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  15. #5565
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,289
    It's been a fun, though not quite epic, couple of weeks of surf down here.

    On Saturday 10/27 I drove down to San Diego to pick up a board. Solid Surfboards is the label, I got what they call a Butter Biscuit. It's got volume and is considered something of a groveler, but with a high performance twist. The biggest two sizes they make are 6'2" and 6'6", but I wanted a 6'4" so I had one shaped. I also added a half inch of width.

    It has sharper rails than a funshape or true fish. For me it will be an everyday/good day board, shoulder high HB/Newport or better.

    Here are a couple of pics:

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    In the first week of November, I got a few sessions on it mid-week in the morning. The tide was very high and it was shoulder high but quite soft. Normally this would be the perfect day for the Bento Box or a funshape, but because I hadn't surfed this boad yet I wanted to paddle it out.

    I ended up getting quite lucky. While it was soft on the outside, you could take off straight, bottom turn into a cutback, then Huntington hop to the inside. The inside was actually reeling, and lots of fun on the board. The rails are sharper than a small wave board, and a couple of pumps would really send you flying down the line. When doing a bottom turn it really bites despite the volume, something I'm not used lately, as I have been surfing the Bento Box quite a bit. It's nice to be back on a board that feels responsive, where you can really drive off the bottom and push rail a bit on a cutback. I ended up having a blast on it.

    Wednesday and Thursday of that week were about the same. I couldn't believe the serendipity.

    That weekend was smaller, but fun on a bigger board on Saturday and Sunday.

    Last week was even better. Tuesday AM was fun north of the HB pier, around 9th street, similar to the way the week before had been. It was fun, although a bit hard to make the inside section.

    Wednesday was awesome. Things had picked up, from the WNW, and the 28th street jetty in Newport was shoulder high, head high on the sets and clean. Newport is steeper and faster than HB at that size, and I found a peak (almost) to myself around 30th street, right in the middle of the jetties. Everyone was scrapping for the lefts off the 28th street jetty, and I got lucky to find fun lefts in the middle. With a steeper, faster wall, the board really shined. The rail is solid, and riding it as a thruster gives more stability than I've had lately. It was fun getting it out in some surf with some juice. The volume is concentrated right under the chest, so despite the shortboard style nose it catches waves incredibly easily, almost like a true fish or funshape. But with the sharp rails you can really generate speed pumping it down the line, and the responsiveness means you can hit the lip or really lay into a cutback. I was getting left after left, and I really couldn't believe how much fun it is on a wave with some juice. I couldn't believe it was basically me and one other guy out on that peak. It was one of those sessions where everything works out. I almost got a coverup, but reacted too late. Someday I'll figure out when to stall, instead of realizing after the fact.

    Thursday AM I had very high hopes. It was still about shoulder high, and the offshores were howling. I got a couple that were okay, but the offshores were just too strong. After such a great session the day before I was pretty philosophical about it.

    One more thing they do with the butter biscuit, which they do with other boards, is a concave skateboard style deck. This gives it a very precise feel, like you can really steer it and control it well despite the volume.

    Definitely stoked on this one. If any of you guys need a new board you should check them out. This board is exactly what I've been looking for.

    https://solidsurf.co/
    Last edited by Long duc dong; 11-14-2023 at 09:56 PM.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  16. #5566
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    My armchair
    Posts
    4,901
    Damn LDD; that's ALOT of volume for a 6'-4! Looks fun Would love to see some pics of rocker and rails .....
    "... she'll never need a doctor; 'cause I check her out all day"

  17. #5567
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,289
    Quote Originally Posted by Xover View Post
    Damn LDD; that's ALOT of volume for a 6'-4! Looks fun Would love to see some pics of rocker and rails .....
    I'll post some shots of the rails and rocker tonight if I get the chance. Petty busy right now, trying to wrap things up by Thanksgiving.

    Here is a link to their description of the board:

    https://solidsurf.co/shop/surfboard-...utter-biscuit/
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  18. #5568
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    793
    Yawnnnnnnn

  19. #5569
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    California
    Posts
    2,830
    OB in SF has had a few standout days this month, next few days look pretty damn good too. Great to be back in the water with some size and power again after a pretty lackluster fall thus far.
    Three fundamentals of every extreme skier, total disregard for personal saftey, amphetamines, and lots and lots of malt liquor......-jack handy

  20. #5570
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    risin up to paradise...
    Posts
    355
    I got some after taking my board to the dome going over the falls, 7 stitches after 3 waves. I was paddling back out but the stream of blood splashing on my deck made me think otherwise.

    There’s some solid swell this weekend and no snow yet so I made the call to go surf. NOAA issued a sneaker wave warning and I was the third customer in the ER after some pedestrians were washed off the jette and got pretty jacked.
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    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  21. #5571
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    17,954
    ouch
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  22. #5572
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,289
    Wow!!

    Heal up. That looks pretty nasty.

    I got in a morning session today north of the HB pier.

    It was head high and pretty fun. Soft and bouncy at times due to the high tide, but fun if you could get them to connect to the inside, which a few did. After a fair bit of surf the last few days, it was actually pretty empty.

    What is interesting is how far off Surfline has been on this swell. Three days in a row I've expected to wake up to 2-3 in HB, and it has been 3-5 or 4-5. I've been busy, so today was the day I was able to get out and enjoy it. I can pull another AM session tomorrow if it's good, and hopefully it will be. It has been supposed to wane for a few days now, I'm hoping tomorrow there is still some juice left.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  23. #5573
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    SF & the Ho
    Posts
    9,741
    That must have been a gusher. Prob had a few show up for that chum

  24. #5574
    Join Date
    Oct 2021
    Posts
    75
    Quote Originally Posted by Long duc dong View Post
    Wow!!

    Heal up. That looks pretty nasty.

    I got in a morning session today north of the HB pier.

    It was head high and pretty fun. Soft and bouncy at times due to the high tide, but fun if you could get them to connect to the inside, which a few did. After a fair bit of surf the last few days, it was actually pretty empty.

    What is interesting is how far off Surfline has been on this swell. Three days in a row I've expected to wake up to 2-3 in HB, and it has been 3-5 or 4-5. I've been busy, so today was the day I was able to get out and enjoy it. I can pull another AM session tomorrow if it's good, and hopefully it will be. It has been supposed to wane for a few days now, I'm hoping tomorrow there is still some juice left.
    Surf-lies has been horrible as of late, but for me it has been in the opposite direction - way smaller than forecasted (think I would prefer it went the other way).

  25. #5575
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    156
    No photos since it was cold, but got out for a few hours in OCNJ yesterday morning as I had one last vacation day to burn. Slightly overdressed in a hooded 6/5; might have even been fine in the 4/3 since it was nice and sunny out with little wind. Waves were pretty consistently chest high with the occasional head high set rolling through. The jetty worked its conveyor belt magic and I was getting a wave every 3-4 minutes with pretty minimal paddling effort which is always a bonus when you're wearing that much rubber. Nice way to celebrate the solstice!

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