It's been a nice run of surf down here.
After Trestles last Wednesday, I got a nice mid-morning session on Thursday north of the HB pier. I ended up paddling out around tower 16. It was clean and head high+, but the high tide was making it tough to connect to the inside. The current was absolutely insane, south to north, no point in fighting it given that I was going left. After 3 lefts, which were just a bit soft to hop my way into the inside, I decided I had time for one more pass and walked back down to tower 16. This pass the tide had dropped just enough, and it was a blast. What had been lefts that offered a bottom turn to a cutback before dying, were now lining up. You would still do a bottom turn to a cutback/top turn, but then they would stand up and you could just pump down the line, maybe bounce off the foam a few times. The second pass was awesome.
Saturday I went back to my usual Trestles zone, got in the water around 11 am. It was shoulder high+, with the occasional head high set. It was fun, but the high tide made it soft early on. As it dropped my Barbedwires lefts started to line up. It was still a bit soft, but some of them would stand up enough to be playful and race through to the inside section, where you could bounce off the lip of the sourthern most right coming from Cottons. I stayed in the water around 3.5 hours, it ended up being lots of fun, although it could have used a tiny bit more juice. It started out crowded, but as the crowd thinned, a bit of wind bump but not too bad, you could just get left after left.
Sunday I hit north HB pier again. It was fun, a bit bigger and punchier than Thursday. You had to pick and choose. The south to north current was even crazier, after a set would come it looked like a river running north on the inside section. You would start paddling out around 17th and finally make it out around 20th. I got a few really fun ones, then at the end of my second pass I got cleaned up and decided to call it a day. Classic mistake, go for an inside shoulder high one and miss it, turn around to see a set, hope I can make it to the bar where it's breaking, and don't make it. One of the things about that type of current is that you zip through the different zones so fast you don't get a sense of just how punchy, or not, a given sand bar can be.
Today looks fun but I'm too busy. Hopefully the rest of you guys are getting some of this.
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