Anyone else get some today...?

[liv2ski]

So it sounds like a few of us have shoulder issues. I have not used my Bowflex in about 2 years now and my shoulders are now completely pain free (cuz I don't exercise) but I need to get back into shape for winter surf and skiing. What exercises can you guys do that don't aggravate the shoulders/arms?

[soul_skier]

Aaaah Finnimas isn't it? The first wave I ever rode in the Maldives. I've also surfed (and Sup'ed) there before that boat landed on the reef. The island across the pass (Kanimeedhoo) almost became home but we missed out on the lease due to a crooked agriculture minister.

Did you make it to any of the southern atolls (gaafu daalhu)?

My son just spent 2 months working in the North Male atoll before starting Uni last week. Now he appears to be drunk every night.

Correct - would have been great to check it out before the barge wrecked there but it does keep the break from getting too crowded as surfers are concerned about falling on a wave and getting dragged into the rusted mess of metal.

The island across the pass with the abandoned surf camp - machados right? Hell of a wave, tons of fun for the regular footers and I liked how it kept people from coming across the channel to the left.

We made it down to ying yangs on Hithadhoo but technically didn't leave the central atolls. Would love to do a winter trip down south if the opportunity ever presented itself but it is tough to leave during the northern hemisphere winter.

[VTskibum]

Wife and I went to check out a beach house investment in DE, was hoping to catch some of the Hurricane Sam leftovers, but got skunked on both. House was misrepresented to say the least and missed the waves, showed up to massive shore break. Sat on beach in my wetsuit for 30 min and scrapped it for a beer w the wife instead. Oh well


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[subtle plague]

Oh new swell is here. It breaks despite high tide. Could be interesting later.

[soul_skier]

Oil spill closing beaches from Huntington beach to newport - just in time for what is often some of the best surf of the season. Sorry to the so-cal surfers, this is just shitty any way you look at it.
https://www.theinertia.com/news/mass...ornia-beaches/

[subtle plague]

The wave Was kind of funky today. Bigger but not very good. And I messed up a lot.

[subtle plague]

Pic.
Me dropping into nowhere. Because of the rocks near the takeoff you have some weird steps in the wave. And well yeah...I'm a kook. Others could have made that

[Ottime]

First time in 22 months I can post up in this thread and say, yes, indeed, I got some today. Felt amazing. Back home on my favorite ledge. Surfed with a water buddy I had not seen in some time. 6.2@13 and fairly clean swell. There was shorter period NW in the water and some smaller mid period SW as well. Over all tho, a fairly clean day. Breaking a foot over head or a bit more when swells piled up. Enough period to push you into the wave, but short enough it dod not throw you in. Super fun. Got plenty of waves. Some better than others. Got a lot of paddling in. No wipeouts, but more importantly, my should felt secure in its socket and I could mostly just surf. Been a while trying to make that happen and has me looking forward to the fall. Clean conditions are making the difference right now.

And I learned my period and setup lessons comparing indo and Europe. While 6@9 is barely headhigh at the beach, 4@18 is solid overhead at a reef.

I've found even that is not always so straight forward.

We have a beach break around here that is inside a fairly deep and wide bay. The Monterey Canyon divides it pretty much between the north and the south. The beach break is best in the mid periods. It gets intense on longer periods as on expects. Unless the swell is nearly due west. When this happens, the longer the period the swell, the smaller the waves are when they get to the beach break. The swell actually hits the sides of the canyons as it comes out of deep water and refracts back into itself in a way that depletes the energy. Tilt that swell with some north in it, and the swell increases dramatically in size and power. The thing is, it is more exposed to direct west swells than to NW swells because of the headlands to the north.

Another example nearby is a reef that works at around 270-285 degrees and at about 305-325 degrees but as the swell centers on 295 degrees the reef simply does not work. The wave closes out, or even kind of has two peaks. Again, what is interesting is the wave is otherwise pretty much the same at 280 and 310 degrees - which is otherwise odd.

This time of year I mostly surf a small handful of spots. Mostly because they pick up swell, are not too crowded and break from 4 to 20 feet and from 11 to 18 seconds. Even after having hundreds of days at a particular reef, there are still days where what is happening in the ocean and what is reported on the buoys just does not see to math up.

I guess that is what you were calling magic.

Sorry no stoke photos. Actually took a few this morning but I can't seem to log into the app anymore.

[jackstraw]

South and North swells this time of year, eh Ott. My kid got back from Salinas and laughing said the water is freezing! Ha! He got to surf with Steph Gilmore and hung out with MikeD of the Beastie Boys. Pretty epic trip. Now back to epic winter SC surf. Life is rough for you cruzers

[Long duc dong]

I've always wanted to hit Mundaka. I think most of us goofies would love the opportunity.

Here is a surfline article about last week. There are some great shots, and some nice camera rewinds which show just how fun HB, and other spots, were last week.

https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/h...ifornia/133171

This week I desperately need to catch up on work so it is just as well that the swell has dropped.

Oh, and a pipe broke and dumped 126k gallons of crude off of HB.

[subtle plague]

This morning Was pretty good. Not as stellar as three days ago, after the mundaka session, but still pretty good. Unfortunately I messed up my first three waves because I was still half asleep. That would have been the best. Right now the tide is to funky and the side side on/ secondary swell warble is on it.

[Ottime]

Another fun day at the ledge. A touch smaller and touch less period, but still oh so much fun.

Rode my actual shortboard (6.0 with about 31L) today and it was simply a blast. I have been riding a 35L 6.4 and a 32L 5.9, as well as a 50L egg recently. Nice to get back on a lower volume, zippier board. Please send more 5-8' at 13-17s surf.

[Ottime]

South and North swells this time of year, eh Ott. My kid got back from Salinas and laughing said the water is freezing! Ha! He got to surf with Steph Gilmore and hung out with MikeD of the Beastie Boys. Pretty epic trip. Now back to epic winter SC surf. Life is rough for you cruzers

It is. We always seems to get these consistent late season south swells with longer period. Just enough to cross things up, but the places I enjoy most this time of year just really want a single WNW swell to be firing. Any swell in addition just lumps things up poorly. The 1.7@17 south swell today was not horrible, but it would have been better without. T he higher tide did help in this situation.

And LDD is correct. Us goofies love long lefts.

[subtle plague]

Another fun day at the ledge. A touch smaller and touch less period, but still oh so much fun.

Rode my actual shortboard (6.0 with about 31L) today and it was simply a blast. I have been riding a 35L 6.4 and a 32L 5.9, as well as a 50L egg recently. Nice to get back on a lower volume, zippier board. Please send more 5-8' at 13-17s surf.

It was pretty interesting to see that my 32l Board liked clean offshore mundaka a lot , but couldn't really handle the reef here when it was a bit wonky. As you said in the other thread volume makes a stable platfom. I'm on my 38l again. Both 6.0.

On the other hand: my 5.10 45l board had nearly no hold in the wall when the reef was perfect and I had thought it would be much smaller.....well i guess those rails on a 3 inch thick board are not made for that) But I was too lazy to go out and get another board.

[Long duc dong]

The island across the pass (Kanimeedhoo) almost became home but we missed out on the lease due to a crooked agriculture minister.

Wow. It would be nuts to live in the Maldives. I have dreamed about going for a long time.

My son just spent 2 months working in the North Male atoll before starting Uni last week. Now he appears to be drunk every night.

Sounds like my first week of college.

I was there about 5 days before classes began, and when they did it seemed somewhat inconvenient. I had spent the first 5 days going to the Gold's Gym in Goleta, jogging around the beaches and bluffs of Isla Vista and hanging out at Sands. I was also smoking copious amounts of much better weed than I was used to and drinking Natty Light like it was my job.

[Hayduke]

Yeah, it was a dream of mine too. After we lost out on the Kanimeedhoo lease we signed the lease on 4 islands in the south (10 mins away from some iconic breaks).
It fell apart when the then Tourism Minister decided to embezzle $80m. The investors bailed out fast once that became public and it pretty much cost me my house. Covid's fucked things since then.

https://maldivesindependent.com/busi...project-118356

The sunburn on my forehead came from the 3 days surfing the North Male Atoll breaks waiting for lawyers before signing the contract. The guy I'm shaking hands with is (according to a guy at the Asian Development Bank) the only Agriculture Minister he knows that wears a $50k wristwatch.

Fortunately, the current government seems to be pretty straight so we'll see what the future brings.

[subtle plague]

Really nice and mellow Mundaka session today. Shoulder high.

[soul_skier]

Yeah, it was a dream of mine too. After we lost out on the Kanimeedhoo lease we signed the lease on 4 islands in the south (10 mins away from some iconic breaks).
It fell apart when the then Tourism Minister decided to embezzle $80m. The investors bailed out fast once that became public and it pretty much cost me my house. Covid's fucked things since then.

https://maldivesindependent.com/busi...project-118356

The sunburn on my forehead came from the 3 days surfing the North Male Atoll breaks waiting for lawyers before signing the contract. The guy I'm shaking hands with is (according to a guy at the Asian Development Bank) the only Agriculture Minister he knows that wears a $50k wristwatch.

Fortunately, the current government seems to be pretty straight so we'll see what the future brings.

Cool project, sorry to hear it didn't work out as expected. Especially in light of the rules on foreign ownership/residence in the Maldives getting set up with a 21yr lease tied to a project that feeds the local population in a sustainable manner would be a win on a bunch of different fronts.

[jackstraw]

Not in line with the thread buy an interesting perspective

https://twitter.com/vanssurf/status/...qMpVit3rg&s=19

[subtle plague]

2@19 and two guys out. Headhigh sets. Im suiting up.

[Long duc dong]

2@19 and two guys out. Headhigh sets. Im suiting up.

Wow!!

I definitely wish I was there right now!

How far is Mundaka from Bacqueria Beret

[JayPowHound]

Have only surfed a dozen times or so, all over a decade ago.

Still love following this thread and seeing all the stoke!

Can someone clue me in on the numbers?

"2@19" is gibberish for this jong.

Headhigh I get.

[Hayduke]

2 foot swell height at 19 second period. Longer the period = more power.

SP has had days and days of waves. I need some of this parental leave stuff.

Tomorrow's looking pretty tasty here (yeah it's MSW so the size can be halved but even so....)

[subtle plague]

Wow!!

I definitely wish I was there right now!

How far is Mundaka from Bacqueria Beret

Heh. Im sorry to disappoint, but that photo Must have been a total unicorn Set. Went out and was paddling for chest high Sets. ( two other big ones came through in 2 hours)
Strong current, 10 guys out and the wind turned side on, everything became a semi close out and I only had two waves where I wasn't eaten right after the bottom turn.

But hey..at least I saw kepa acero get one of the good ones from the peak and race by me in the tourist section he left when it turned side on. Smart local.

[subtle plague]

Woah it's Solid overhead pushing double in the sets. Im not sure whether I belong there today...

Edit: ok the normal sets Look Managable...

Edit2: no I'll go to the reef. Double oh cleanups and me being half healthy and easily being out of breath don't go well together...