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  1. #5251
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hayduke View Post
    Where is this?
    Tropical reef....could be anywhere from maldives to indo or pacific. If we knew where soul Skier lives, we could point on the other side of the Globe.


    Better question is
    : whyyy a sup?
    Last edited by subtle plague; 09-22-2021 at 07:35 AM.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  2. #5252
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    Strong onshore winds and just trash waves out there. Since my ocean access is limited I’m in the water, but getting my ass kicked cause I suck.

    Time for beer.

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  3. #5253
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    EWG - Tomorrow is looking pretty good up north (MD/DE and NJ), though I won't be able to partake, hopefully winds clean up for you tomorrow onward.

    My brother invited me down to his place in DE, but after last weekend blowing off family my wife's response to the question wasn't so positive. Hopefully catch another swell soon.

  4. #5254
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    Got a session in, but feeling worse a again. This fucking coughing sickness....3+ weeks now.

    My lungs are clean but my sinuses are still fucked.
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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  5. #5255
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    Nice day along the Washington coast yesterday.
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    And a few from an Oregon Coast trip a few weeks back
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  6. #5256
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    Quote Originally Posted by altasnob View Post
    Nice day along the Washington coast yesterday.
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    And a few from an Oregon Coast trip a few weeks back
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    Nice pics.... but did you get the full Oregon surf trip choking experience?

    https://stabmag.com/news/come-to-oregon-get-choked-out/
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  7. #5257
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    That only happens at Seaside point. But ya, you will definitely be choked out and shanked by some methy inbread if you even look at the waves there.

  8. #5258
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    We went down to Spain to wait for the bigger swell to get some reef going. Picturesque spot. The A frame still wants lower tides and more swell. It's supposed to kick in later during low Tide. We'll see.
    I'm still pretty sick Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  9. #5259
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    I'd really like to know what "Parental leave" is and how do I get some?
    _____________________________________

  10. #5260
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    Some howling offshores in one of those Oregon photos.

    Great shots as always. I really do need a better phone.

    Today was pretty phenomenal in Orange County. I surfed the north side of the HB pier, paddling out around tower 10. It was about a foot overhead on sets, although in some cases the shoulder to head high ones were a bit better. It was a bit walled, but if you picked out the right corner they were pretty great. Some real punch, I got drilled by a couple of outside sets while waiting for the inside ones. The current was crazy, I paddled out around tower 10 and got out around tower 24, which is Dog Beach or HB cliffs if you know the area. Some REALLY fun lefts though, if you got the right ones they lined up all the way to the inside. I saw one guy, a much better surfer then me, get about a 3-4 second standup barrel at one point, just absolutely slotted. I thought he was going to come out for a second, but he pulled into a second section which closed out on him. I got in the water around 730 and out around 915, and it was still quite glassy. I would have loved to have surfed longer, but I've got too much work to do.

    I hope this gets to the rest of you guys on the west coast. September is closing with a bang.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  11. #5261
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    My kid just sent me this one.

    Salina Cruz

  12. #5262
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hayduke View Post
    I'd really like to know what "Parental leave" is and how do I get some?
    Paid vacation if you have kids. 14 Months you can Split between the the parents. An incentive to have kids. You get 60% of your net income. 1800 Euro max by the state. We did 12 / 2 and travel the second month together. The first was needed to help my wife. No travel after birth.

    And your company has to take you back into your position. Which is not a problem in my job, but it's important for others.

    You can do longer, but without pay obviously.

    Move to a communist utopia and you'll have it.
    Last edited by subtle plague; 09-29-2021 at 12:54 AM.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  13. #5263
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    Clean today. I'm waiting for the tide to drop.Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  14. #5264
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    That is a nice looking setup Jackstraw.

    Nice action shot SP. Right in the middle of hitting the lip.

    I got in the water today around 745. It was similar to yesterday north of the HB pier, but a bit more hollow and a bit punchier. It made for some long paddle outs, as you could just get stuck in the impact zone. My first couple I got absolutely pitched. The kind of tossings where it's fun AFTER you are okay and laughing about it, but while you are getting pitched it's a bit scary.I did get a couple of fun ones, but always had to deal with the long paddle out back through the impact zone. For whatever reason it was tougher today than yesterday, I found myself duck diving section after section.

    The current was running again, and after initially trying to fight it I just let it drag me. After paddling back out through the impact zone and taking a bunch on the head, even if the wave was fun, I'm just not into paddling down the beach. I got in around tower 10 once again. Around tower 18, after about an hour and fifteen minutes in the water I got the one that made it worth it. I was paddling for a head high left thinking that I was a bit deep and would get pitched again. I decided to go for it anyway, and side slipped down the face into a quick coverup. I don't get barreled much, even for just a second or two, and when I do it usually closes out. It opened up and I was back out on the face, euphoric at my serendipity. A couple of pumps and I was able to stay in it for the inside section. I was giddy to say the least, and I tried to paddle back out. A consistent set came, and after a few minutes of duck diving I decided to get back to responsibilities.

    Here is a shot from todayClick image for larger version. 

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ID:	387308. This doesn't do it justice. It was head high to maybe a foot overhead, clean, and lots of guys were getting barreled. I saw more people come out than usual, and the people who are actually good were logging some time.

    These are the days that I love this area. Fall is very good to north OC beachbreaks.

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    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  15. #5265
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    Today was basically a carbon copy of yesterday. A touch smaller and not quite as punchy or hollow, but still REALLY fun. A bit easier for a kook like me. 4-5 and orange on Surfline. The last few days have really been just about as good as it gets in HB. I expected today would not be quite as good, but when I saw orange on surfline I had to go.

    What a run of surf this has been to close out the month. The water is a bit cold, but for head high+ and clean I will take it.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  16. #5266
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    Sounds great. I was surfing straighthanders with mostly other Germans ( we sure have too much holidays ans clog up all line ups reachable by van...Praise the ferry )yesterday. A bad sign....for wave Quality. I hope the reef starts working again soon.

    But at least I'm healthy again. No session side effects in my lungs or sinuses. Still a bit weak.
    I'm still debating whether to try small mundaka tomorrow. It's probably crowded. But it's mundaka. And headhigh and perfect...no barrels and not as vicious current. On the other hand: it's Saturday and I won't be allowed in the peak and I'm not sure the "scraps section" exists at that size.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  17. #5267
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    LDD those beachbreaks look like bliss. Photos from the beach never do it justice.

    SP if you can head a little past Bilbao & Santander there's a town called San Vincente de la Barquera. Loads of uncrowded spots there & a little bit of size it breaks along the harbour wall. But I get you, it adds gravitas to a claim to be the best surfer in the office if you tell them you've surfed Mundaka

    If you do head that way, there's one of the best bbq places I've been to just outside town too called La Parrilla. Worth the visit even without surf.

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    _____________________________________

  18. #5268
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    Quote Originally Posted by subtle plague View Post
    Tropical reef....could be anywhere from maldives to indo or pacific. If we knew where soul Skier lives, we could point on the other side of the Globe.


    Better question is
    : whyyy a sup?
    Maldives - 2wk boat trip with a combo of sups and prone surfers, managed to get good surf on all days but one and had a 4 day run of well overhead swell right in the middle. This should narrow it down a bit for anyone familiar with the area: Click image for larger version. 

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    Fair question on the sup, simple answer is that for me I can either sup or not surf at all. Both shoulders are blown out from surfing and climbing in my younger years and when my doc tells me that surgery is a 6 month process per shoulder and there is no guarantee that there will be improvement it makes learning how to sup an obvious choice. I fully agree with the hatred that the folks who sit out back with a 10' long 200 liter aircraft carrier of a board catching every wave and not knowing any etiquette get, they deserve it; just don't paint the guy sitting inside with a 7' long 80L board with the same brush.

    Besides, who doesn't love a sup surfer who waits their turn and acts as a lookout calling out clean ups and sets running wide - everyone has more fun that way!
    Three fundamentals of every extreme skier, total disregard for personal saftey, amphetamines, and lots and lots of malt liquor......-jack handy

  19. #5269
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    Aaaah Finnimas isn't it? The first wave I ever rode in the Maldives. I've also surfed (and Sup'ed) there before that boat landed on the reef. The island across the pass (Kanimeedhoo) almost became home but we missed out on the lease due to a crooked agriculture minister.

    Did you make it to any of the southern atolls (gaafu daalhu)?

    My son just spent 2 months working in the North Male atoll before starting Uni last week. Now he appears to be drunk every night.
    _____________________________________

  20. #5270
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    Ouch. Vibes to the shoulder. The sup is excused.
    I tweaked one climbing last year. (In the gym for Fucks sake) And it still doesn't like sleeping on it after a hard surf session.

    So dear diary: I went out in mundaka and used the new board in proper waves. Shoulder high maybe once in a while a head high set.( which I obviously didn't get because from that size on it doesn't section as much and I just watched the guys from the peak come by ...)I jogged over from our side of the estuary. I was pretty dead when I paddled out. My lungs are still not 100%
    I sat in the groms and sad tourist section, but snagged two waves before the tide came in and I was scared I'd have to paddle 1km back to the camping
    Nice wave. Just like Indo. Make the drop and start pumping. Click image for larger version. 

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    Edit: @Hayduke we used to go out to Asturias and Galicia so I know most of the spots there, albeit not the reefs because it was always in summer. I never tried rodiles because of the hassle.
    And a lot of the asadores are pretty neat. But with two little kids the Restaurant experience is limited to the rv


    We probably won't drive further west because it'll be big and a bit stormy. So we'll hang out in pais vasco. Maybe head back to France when the wind turns east and the swell drops below 6foot there so the sandbars work. ( no I won't try la graviere because I don't have stickers on my board and hate competitive lineups. )
    Last edited by subtle plague; 10-02-2021 at 06:38 AM.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  21. #5271
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    So great seeing this thread still having legs. Thanks for all the stoke ya'll are putting up.

    Didn't surf much this week, due to a locally angry sea outside of town. Last week was quite good.

    I've got about 20 plus days in the water now since getting back in. Had shoulder surgery to repair my labrum and hopefully keep my arm inside the socket. Doc says it won't pop out from paddling and popping up, no matter how hard I push it, but it is still pretty scary.

    Last Thursday we had some solid swell, 6-8'@15s was pushing DOH on the big sets at my favorite ledge. Access is from down climbing a 100' cliff with a fixed rope. Spicy. It was the biggest day I've been out so far, but because it was so impressively clean, one of the easier days to surf as well. Still got a long way to go building back strength and skills from missing most of 18 months of surfing, but it feels amazing to be back in the water. Hopefully I remember to pull out the camera one day and share some stoke.

    Mundaka has always been on my list of places I'd like to surf and then eat.

  22. #5272
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    I had the best session of this trip yesterday. At the reef that should not have worked because it was bigger at 4 foot mundaka forecast than at 5.5 mundaka when I was there last time.
    No locals for 2 hours. It was pulsing at shoulder to head high. And I could take every Set wave i wanted because the other tourists all just sat on the shoulder. I had only taken my fat board down to the beach and wished I had taken one of my real boards because I kept sliding out of the perfect wall 2 or 3 times.
    20 waves.
    And when two locals showed up at 6:30 it just stopped. I had to paddle in. No more sets. Surreal.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  23. #5273
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    A bit smaller today( although the forecast is 2 feet more...I guess it's super sensitive to swell direction and period)and it was side on and rained All day, but the tide is dropping and it has cleared up. Maybe another session.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  24. #5274
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    Ah.picClick image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  25. #5275
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    ^^^^ I am not sure the local features of mundaka or this reef here, but for sure breaks are effected by an number of things besides amplitude.

    Period and direction play a huge role in breaks that move abruptly from deep water to shallow water. Beach breaks can pull swell in from many directions due to their bottom contours and shallow insides. The sand can also shift for changes in swell.

    Reefs work differently. They tend to pick up swell from a primary direction and less so from others. In part due to their static nature and in part because they point one way or another.

    Period effects how a swell arrives at break. Longer period swells reach deeper and wider to grab onto land and bend. They will wrap 180 degrees or more into a bay, where shorter period swells will completely bypass said bay. This effect can lead to changes in how waves break 10, 100 or more miles away.

    Tide will also effect submerged reefs more. As the tide comes in, the reef can disappear with shorter period swells, but longer period swells reach deeper underwater to grab onto a deeper reef.

    Oh, and even locals sometimes don't know when to go. Some don't really pay attention to much other than tide and local wind. Some just are on a schedule. At my local ledge, the regulars drive between 10 and 11 AM. I call them the Sleep In Crew. I usually arrive at 8:30, as that is my window to surf.

    If you really want to learn breaks, I suggest buying a tide log and journalling your surf days. In the journal mark when you surfed, where, what the swell amplitudes and directions were and how it worked out. After a while you'll have an amazing resource to determine when and where to go.

    This tide log is great for NorCal, as if gives you the swing of the tides in graph, sunrise, sunset, moon phase and more.

    https://www.tidelog.com/product/nort...ornia-tidelog/

    Keep up the travels.

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