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  1. #5126
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    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    This pretty much sums up my year

    Attachment 376468
    Sitting in the line up with 500 others waiting for a chest high Set?
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  2. #5127
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    Chest high? How short are you?

    That looks perfect to me right now. Have not been out since September when my shoulder dislocated again. Angry fish was correct in that I was fucked. Had surgery in October.

    Skiing is done for the season but mountain biking turned out to be pretty damn fun. Need to cajole myself back in the water to paddle around and but and rebuild. On a MTB camp trip with my kid for the next few days, so maybe Thursday.

    Flat clean conditions sound about perfect. Don’t care about crowds as I really just need to paddle around first.

  3. #5128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Chest high? How short are you?
    It was knee to waist if you crouched down. Not surfing much these days, my timing always feels like I should of been there yesterday.
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  4. #5129
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Chest high? How short are you?

    .
    3 foot 6?
    I wrote "waiting for". Not surfing.
    Chest high clean ups surely purged the line up every 30min
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  5. #5130
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    It has actually been quite good in these parts over the last week and a half.

    Saturday was really good in the Tresltes zone. Head high+ in the Cottons/Barbedwires zone, I rotated between the rights under Nixon's old house and the lefts slightly south. It was clean for the most part, and I think I stayed in the water for around an hour.

    I have gotten a few good 36th street days and some excellent ones south of the HB pier too.

    Today was actually sneaky fun south of the HB pier. I went to bed knowing I would have a morning window, but seeing blue on surfline I figured it might not be worth it. When I checked in the morning it was green and fair to good, around shoulder high with the occasional head high set. I surfed mostly around tower 3, sometimes drifting north towards the pier, sometimes paddling south. It was clean, and though it could have had more push the shape was good and there was a nice inside section. The water is starting to warm up a bit. The crowd was really not bad all things considered.

    It is supposed to be smaller tomorrow, but if it's clean I will try to squeeze a session in.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  6. #5131
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    A fun mid-morning session south of the HB pier today.

    It was shoulder high+, with good shape. I was able to trunk it, getting in the water around 930. It was a bit brisk at first, but I adjusted and it ended up being fine. It was crowded, but the crowd was pretty spread out.

    It has been a very good spring down here.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  7. #5132
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    What a run of surf it has been here.

    Friday and Saturday I had great late morning sessions north of the HB pier. Shoulder high, occasionally head high on the biggest sets, with good shape and some zip due to the low tide. The current was strong, I got in at tower 8 and out around tower 18, but that helped spread the crowd out. After struggling against the current I eventually figured it made sense to just drift through the different zones and not fight. The wind held off, which was nice.

    Sunday I got in another quick session in the same zone. Not as good, but still worth paddling out.

    Today I was able to line up a long morning down at Cottons. It will be a late night tonight, that's my penance, but today was probably my best day of the summer so far. It was a foot or two overhead on the sets, a bit bigger at Cottons proper, with nice, lined up walls. If you found the right corner they connected all the way across the inside. It was easy to surf and fun, the way Trestles often is. The wind held off, and I was in the water from around 10 to around 130. By that point my body was thrashed. I probably should have called it earlier, and I'm paying for that now, but when it is warm enough to trunk it, sunny, overhead and clean with long workable walls you have to take advantage. It was one of those days where the waves were just easy to surf, enough push and steepness to get in early, not not heavy of scary. If you were deep you could angle and race down the line. If you were farther out on the shoulder you could draw out a bottom turn to a big swooping cutback before it lined up and you could race through the inside. If everyday was like today I would be a much better surfer than I am. Today was almost as good as the Cottons/Barbedwires/Uppers zone gets. On the way home I decided to check the offramp to Basilone rd, where you can get a glimpse of Lowers, and I saw a set that must have been a couple of feet overhead and absolutely perfect.

    I hope this one makes it to the rest of you guys. Days like these are why I really love where I live.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  8. #5133
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    Finally got back in the water post shoulder surgery. No surfing yet. But two days out there paddling. My shoulders and chest are for sure weak, but what I noticed more was my lack of rib padding. Top ribs hurt after just two days of paddling around the soft top. Will need to get those callousness back. And more strength.

  9. #5134
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    My shoulders ached for years from past injuries. Really have not surfed much the last 18 months and they feel 100% great now. When I do surf they ache. Kind of afraid to do much with the arms (work out) these days, as I don't want that pain returning. WWMD?
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  10. #5135
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    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    My shoulders ached for years from past injuries. Really have not surfed much the last 18 months and they feel 100% great now. When I do surf they ache. Kind of afraid to do much with the arms (work out) these days, as I don't want that pain returning. WWMD?
    board with more volume?

  11. #5136
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    Heading down to socal for a week next thursday. staying in newport at my cousin's place on 33rd july 4th weekend, then heading down to N SD county. won't have easy access to a board in SD but hoping to rent and get some after work sessions in.

    Good S swell so far this year at all? water warm yet (prob not)?

  12. #5137
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Finally got back in the water post shoulder surgery. No surfing yet. But two days out there paddling. My shoulders and chest are for sure weak, but what I noticed more was my lack of rib padding. Top ribs hurt after just two days of paddling around the soft top. Will need to get those callousness back. And more strength.
    Glad you are back in the water!

    The rib things always gets me when I have been out of the water for a while. The first session or two back my ribs just ache.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  13. #5138
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtran10 View Post
    Heading down to socal for a week next thursday. staying in newport at my cousin's place on 33rd july 4th weekend, then heading down to N SD county. won't have easy access to a board in SD but hoping to rent and get some after work sessions in.

    Good S swell so far this year at all? water warm yet (prob not)?
    The 4th used to be absolutely nuts in the war zone, which is the section of west Newport where the young people live, roughly 28th street to 56th street. In my younger days we had lots of fun over this weekend. These days I'm quite a bit mellower, we'll still have a few drinks and a gummy with friends, but the zoo parties of my late 20's and 30's Newport days are behind me. They used to shut down Seashore and Newport blvd over a section in the war zone for the 4th. I'm not sure if they still do that. I really feel old!!! Someone asked me before the pandemic started what the best Nightclubs in Newport were, and I said Sutra and Tentation. Those places have had new names for a long time, my information is really from back in 2013 and before.

    Have fun at 33rd!! That was right in the middle of the chaos when I was younger. Parties at every house up and down the street.

    It has been pumping here the last few weeks. There should be some good swell in the water for the weekend of the 4th, if Surfline is right.

    The water has warmed up some. I have had some trunk sessions recently, but that is partly because I tore my springsuit this winter by mistake, moving things around in the garage. I have trunked it a few times in 65-67 water, which is a bit colder than I would like for trunks, but works once I get used to it. My springsuit is getting fixed at Froghouse right now. I surfed north HB pier today, and I wore a fullsuit. The water has dipped a bit after a couple of days of NW winds, but recently it has been springsuit water, or trunks if you want to push it a bit.

    Today was really fun north of the HB pier. It was head high on sets, and clean when I got in the water. There were nice, lined up shoulders, and some of them were connecting from the outside bar all the way in. The current was strong, I got in the water at tower 8 and out at tower 18 after an hour and 15 minutes. The inside section was REALLY fun. I love HB when it is like this, some push but not too heavy, nice and line up, and you can make it to the inside where it reels. The crowd was really spread out everywhere except right at the pier. I didn't think it was going to be this fun, it was so easy to surf I almost thought I was at Trestles. I was mostly going left, but the rights were fun too. This run of surf has been great.

    Here are a couple of shots I took after I got out of the water. By then the wind had gotten on it a bit, and they don't do it justice. They were taken at Goldenwest st.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  14. #5139
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    Really only have a 3/2 at this point but will bring that and a longsleeve rashguard just in case.

    Last time I spent the 4th in newport was 2014ish I'd imagine. My cousin's kids were both like 5-9 years old around that time. I've got a great memory pulling them down 33rd in a wagon to the beach while all the houses were playing beer pong around us. Spent a ton of time at their place, but this will only be my 2nd ever 4th. Excited to surf every morning then chill on the roof all afternoon.

  15. #5140
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    Jtran,

    One of the great things about that area is that I actually find the peaks in the 28th to 40th zone better than the upper streets. Something has changed in Newport in regards to sand bars. I'm really not enough of an expert to know, but I have lived here permanently since leaving Tahoe in 2004, and for a few summers before that, and the upper streets are now typically only good right at the jetty. It used to be that at a given upper jetty, say 56th street, you would have the peak right at the jetty, which was usually great, but then you would have peaks up from the jetty which were good too. There were usually decent peaks up and down the beach. Now the upper streets tend to be walled if you are not right at the jetty. I usually either surf Huntington, or go to the 28th to 40th zone if that area is good enough. That zone gets good sand bars that are not right at the jetty. Unfortunately the 28th to 40th zone doesn't get quite as much swell as the upper streets, but given how walled the upper streets are now it is just not worth it, unless you luck into a time when people are not at the jetty, which is rare. I would rather go to HB if it is too small for 28th to 40th.

    33rd is a great location if there is swell. If the upper streets are 4-6, the zone where you are might be 3-4 or 3-5, but with good shape.

    I really wish I knew what has happened to the upper streets. The last summer I surfed that zone regularly was 2017. They have worked with sand flow at the Santa Ana river, and I suspect that this is all related to that, but I really am not enough of an expert to know. The Santa Ana rivermouth is still good, if you go right at the rivermouth. The tower 68 to tower 71 zone used to have good shape, but it is usually walled now. You have to go right to the rivermouth, tower 74, to find good shape now. I don't like getting sick, so I avoid the rivermouth.

    A 3/2 and a rash guard should have you pretty much covered.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  16. #5141
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    ^^^^ I bet it was the River work. Any time the Corps work on changing sand flow, the sand bottom breaks within miles will likely all change. Sand is fickle.

    It could also have to do with your winter and storms. Up here, if we get hit directly with a bunch of storms in winter and get strong SW wind flow after the rainfall, our south facing beaches get built up. Cowells, for example is a short beach most years. In good sand years, the bar will build up after multiple storms
    And the beach will fill in and wrap around the headland adding 100 of yards of beach. Especially at low tide. And the break will turn into a magical longboard point with 400 yard rides.

    This year there is no sand past the main beach and the break kind of blows. But winter was mellow and we barely had a storm in town.

  17. #5142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Long duc dong View Post
    Jtran,

    One of the great things about that area is that I actually find the peaks in the 28th to 40th zone better than the upper streets. Something has changed in Newport in regards to sand bars. I'm really not enough of an expert to know, but I have lived here permanently since leaving Tahoe in 2004, and for a few summers before that, and the upper streets are now typically only good right at the jetty. It used to be that at a given upper jetty, say 56th street, you would have the peak right at the jetty, which was usually great, but then you would have peaks up from the jetty which were good too. There were usually decent peaks up and down the beach. Now the upper streets tend to be walled if you are not right at the jetty. I usually either surf Huntington, or go to the 28th to 40th zone if that area is good enough. That zone gets good sand bars that are not right at the jetty. Unfortunately the 28th to 40th zone doesn't get quite as much swell as the upper streets, but given how walled the upper streets are now it is just not worth it, unless you luck into a time when people are not at the jetty, which is rare. I would rather go to HB if it is too small for 28th to 40th.

    33rd is a great location if there is swell. If the upper streets are 4-6, the zone where you are might be 3-4 or 3-5, but with good shape.

    I really wish I knew what has happened to the upper streets. The last summer I surfed that zone regularly was 2017. They have worked with sand flow at the Santa Ana river, and I suspect that this is all related to that, but I really am not enough of an expert to know. The Santa Ana rivermouth is still good, if you go right at the rivermouth. The tower 68 to tower 71 zone used to have good shape, but it is usually walled now. You have to go right to the rivermouth, tower 74, to find good shape now. I don't like getting sick, so I avoid the rivermouth.

    A 3/2 and a rash guard should have you pretty much covered.
    Interesting about the shape. Definitely sounds like river work, and possibly less outflow in general due to so many drought winters in the last 10 years?

    The crowd at 33rd is always pretty kooky which works great for me catching waves. Probably due to less size than upper jetties so the bros don't consider it a worthwhile spot. No surfline cam helps things too.

  18. #5143
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    Posted this in one of the CR threada but figured more people would have see it here.

    Ended up having a really great time with Witch's Rock Surf Camp in Tamarindo. Went to 5 different breaks in 8 days of surfing; 2 by boat and 3 by van. Conditions were excellent on all but 2 days. Recommend for anyone looking for a camp experience. Definitely helps if you can book your trip when high tide is in the early AM hours as most breaks work best then. Instruction was terrific too.



    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

  19. #5144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    ^^^^ I bet it was the River work. Any time the Corps work on changing sand flow, the sand bottom breaks within miles will likely all change. Sand is fickle. .
    I would have to agree. The river work is the most likely culprit.

    Having said all of that, Saturday in that zone was firing. It was walled, but fun if you could find the occasional corner. The same issue was present, it was walled and dumpy, but there was at least more shape than I am used to finding. The current was nuts, I got in around 57th street and got out at tower 71, but you could find corners.

    I do hope things go back in the right direction, it would be nice to have that zone be fun again.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  20. #5145
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    Quote Originally Posted by stalefish3169 View Post
    Posted this in one of the CR threada but figured more people would have see it here.

    Ended up having a really great time with Witch's Rock Surf Camp in Tamarindo. Went to 5 different breaks in 8 days of surfing; 2 by boat and 3 by van. Conditions were excellent on all but 2 days. Recommend for anyone looking for a camp experience. Definitely helps if you can book your trip when high tide is in the early AM hours as most breaks work best then. Instruction was terrific too.



    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
    Nice shot!! Looks fun!!

    I have not been to Costa Rica since 2005, but I did have fun. I love CR because it is so consistent. We went to Jaco, which was great, but I have heard very good things about Tamarindo.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  21. #5146
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    Outer Banks sessions for us. Beautiful mellow rollers today. After about 4 hours I called uncle. Gorgeous day, great temps, great waves, just one of those days…


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  22. #5147
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    Quote Originally Posted by Long duc dong View Post
    Nice shot!! Looks fun!!

    I have not been to Costa Rica since 2005, but I did have fun. I love CR because it is so consistent. We went to Jaco, which was great, but I have heard very good things about Tamarindo.
    Thanks! Crowds were def still light from what the locals were saying so it wasn't the usual Tamarindo experience. But breaks were great and not too crowded.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

  23. #5148
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    Quote Originally Posted by EWG View Post
    Outer Banks sessions for us. Beautiful mellow rollers today. After about 4 hours I called uncle. Gorgeous day, great temps, great waves, just one of those days…


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Four hours is a long session!

    Those rarely happen for me, but when they do it usually means a good summer day at Trestles with warm water. Those days are the ones you remember.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  24. #5149
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    I have great memories of day long sessions even from over 20 years ago. Un- or underemployed, warm days, consistent swell, and taquerias.

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using TGR Forums mobile app

  25. #5150
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    Anyone else get some today...?

    4 hours is a long day for me, man, especially since it’s a destination activity and I’m not 25 anymore. But I’m with my nearly grown kids and they just keep going and I don’t want it to end so I just stay out.

    Another few hours yesterday. Ended when I got tired enough that I kicked a fin when I fell and shaved a bunch of flesh off the top of my foot. Dummy. Ah well.

    It’s pretty raw. Anyone know anything I can spray on a .5”x1” missing chunk of flesh so it won’t bleed in the water?

    Assuming I figure something out we will be back in today. Waves are really small today. Too bad but maybe a mellow day is what I need to recover. They kick back up just a little tomorrow and then keep building so more size is coming. Water is so warm I don’t even care.

    Salad days. Just perfect.


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