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  1. #4551
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Surf was running 20-25’ on the peak, wrapping a few hundred yards before dropping to 12’ way on the inside. Such a killer big wave spot. Best big day of my life.
    Remind me never to go out with you if it is a big day. Tomorrow is suppose to be head high with 70 degree water. That works for me.
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  2. #4552
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    Jun 2007
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    Yeah, I don’t really tide above 15’ anymore. Once the skiing bug bit me again an decade or so ago, I’ve lost some of my big wave skill.

    Kind of a miss on the current swell up here. Can’t wait for autumn to start.

  3. #4553
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    Aug 2007
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    I am with you Ott, I live for those first NW swells that can come in October. October and November are so damn nice down here. Good surf, cool but sunny days, I call it locals summer. Can't wait.
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  4. #4554
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,522
    Saturday and Sunday were lots of fun at river jetties. Head high +, but it was the in-between sets that were the best, the biggest ones were walled. Yesterday evening I went down to Trestles and got a late session at uppers, which was a blast. The water is still warm down there. I'm hoping to do the same thing today, but we will see. It looks like a very good run of swell here.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  5. #4555
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    Jun 2007
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    Cruzing
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    Anyone else get some today...?

    Surfed in the fog this morning. South filled in a bit more. Avoid crowds again. And it is such a fun little wave. A bit bigger today at waist to belly button. Long as log rides with a few hollow sections and a lot of nose ridding sections. But still a bit crucial. Fun ass logging.

    I imagine there were some better waves in town today. Maybe even the western points. Enjoyed hanging with my buddy who took up surfing at 43. He has almost a year under his belt. Fucking kook. Kind of impressed with his progress.
    Last edited by Ottime; 09-11-2018 at 04:30 PM.

  6. #4556
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    Sep 2011
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    here & there
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    Couple of craptacular shots from the last couple of days in The OC 😁




  7. #4557
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    Aug 2007
    Location
    At the beach
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    Nice day to surf in North County. South swell in the water pushing out head high sets. Water is still really warm and just a beautiful day in San Diego.
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  8. #4558
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    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,522
    Quote Originally Posted by PowerWhore7 View Post
    Couple of craptacular shots from the last couple of days in The OC ��



    Nice PW7!!

    Orange County has been pumping for a while now, although it has now dropped off quite a bit. I don't think I can squeeze a session in today, but after the last 10 days or so that is just fine. I hope the rest of you left coast folks got some of this. The water was still pretty warm in San Clemente on Sunday, easily trunkable.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  9. #4559
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    In the shadow of the wasatch
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    2,874
    Headed to Long Beach for training staying in Redondo by the Marina. Any advice on a local shop to rent a real long board (not a foamy) for an evening or two and a nearby wave thats not too heavy? Wont have a car but will have skateboard and okay walking a ways. You guys still trunking it? I have a shorty wetsuit I could bring.

    I havent surfed in almost two years stoked to get my gills wet!
    Bunny Don't Surf

  10. #4560
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    2,522
    Quote Originally Posted by TheFugitive View Post
    Headed to Long Beach for training staying in Redondo by the Marina. Any advice on a local shop to rent a real long board (not a foamy) for an evening or two and a nearby wave thats not too heavy? Wont have a car but will have skateboard and okay walking a ways. You guys still trunking it? I have a shorty wetsuit I could bring.

    I havent surfed in almost two years stoked to get my gills wet!
    When are you going?

    Redondo typically does not pick up a whole lot of south swell, but it might well be rideable for a mellow session. I would bring a shorty as water temps have dropped into the high 60's in north OC, probably slightly colder up there. I trunked it this weekend, but that might be done soon and that was in south OC. I wish I could help more, I don't really know surf shops up there. I would guess that the Hermosa area might work, depending on exactly where you are staying. There is lots of beachbreak around, so you will probably be able to find something non-heavy.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  11. #4561
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    In the shadow of the wasatch
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    Quote Originally Posted by Long duc dong View Post
    When are you going?

    Redondo typically does not pick up a whole lot of south swell, but it might well be rideable for a mellow session. I would bring a shorty as water temps have dropped into the high 60's in north OC, probably slightly colder up there. I trunked it this weekend, but that might be done soon and that was in south OC. I wish I could help more, I don't really know surf shops up there. I would guess that the Hermosa area might work, depending on exactly where you are staying. There is lots of beachbreak around, so you will probably be able to find something non-heavy.
    Get there monday fly out friday. Looks like the breakwater is the big wave spot and everything N is sandbars. Im good with sanbars lol. Shorty will be in my bag. Will google closest surf shops. I think our hotel has loaner bikes. Hope there is a bump to ride and it isnt too much of a hassle.
    Bunny Don't Surf

  12. #4562
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    Jun 2007
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    Cruzing
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    ^*** don’t know about shops, but just south of the beach is a long board spot. Starts with an H I think. But it might be more of a N swell spot. The north end of Resondo picks up a real small about of S swell (of i recall right from whe my buddy lived there). Not great, but enough to get wet.



    Surfed Monday up here. These past few swells have been okay, but the wind has been pretty on, so that limits everyone to town. Tweaked my back a bit Friday, so missed the beat three days of swell. Ultimately, im more interested in the NPAC and focusing on getting shit done otherwise. Almost done w the yard terrace project. Fuck. That is going on 7 years now.

  13. #4563
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    765
    ^^^^^ran out of diary pages??? Hey guy going to southbay... I lived in manhattan for a while..go south on the beach bike path down to Hermosa pier...lots of shops there to get what you need... there's surf all along from El Porto in Manhattan down to the Redondo breakwall in front of charthouse... get you some.

  14. #4564
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    Sep 2007
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    vernon
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    2,391

  15. #4565
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    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
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    9,124
    Hell yeah it does.

    Dear Diary,

    Have not been surfing much. Poor small conditions. Saturday morning was nice before the crowd arrive. Super inconsistent and super cold, but a long period shoulder high bliss. Paddled our and pick one off right away. Paddling back out, grabbed one wide and got so barreled. Took 45 minutes to get the next three, but super fun, super clean, super duper waves. As much as I loathe the south swell, sometimes it can be a surprise. Then 8 plus paddled our and there was no point. Went home and ate eggs.

    Waiting for Nw next week perhaps. Froth.

  16. #4566
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    Oct 2013
    Posts
    765
    I laugh at people counting waves.... jajaja

  17. #4567
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    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
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    Dear diary, Surf was excellent today. Far exceeded expectations. Showed a buddy a new spot, and he had a great time. Chill crowd. Surprisingly plenty to go around. Sounds like it was even better yesterday. Guess it was worth getting shit done, as NPAC is waking up. Oh, and I pity those who have to count to five.

  18. #4568
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    168
    First north swell of the season is about to hit Hawaii. Not supposed to be huge but it's the first opening day of the winter. Nothing like waking up early to some Aleutian juice.

  19. #4569
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    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
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    Love opening days. Enjoy. Looks like my favorite slab will open for the season Thursday. Until then, I’ll just need stay content with some steep, moderate sized, tropi swell. Couple places around here only wake up when it drops east of due south. Tomorrow should be fun. I’ve blocked the morning out on my calendar.

  20. #4570
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,522
    The cane swell hit today, a day later than expected, but unfortunately I'm too busy. I might get in a dawn patrol session tomorrow. I hit Trestles on Saturday but the swell really had not arrived yet, so it was a bit of a bust. I hope the rest of you guys are getting some.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  21. #4571
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
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    Pretty great up here today. There was a bit of a southerly breeze early, but that was gone by mid day and super glassy this afternoon. Got to surf he Singularity at Wolf’s Mound. So much fun with a steep 13 second period. Long, fast, hollow and gnarly. Love that wave. Surfed it twice today.

    It looks like it is dropping already on the buoys. But it should stick around the next few days in one way or another. NW slated for Later in the week looks primo fun.

  22. #4572
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    SFCA
    Posts
    1,234
    I fucking got some on Friday. My wife went through an induction, didn't dilate, then we moved on to a section(I'm crunching). I snipped the chord, and they told me to go back to my wife because she wasn't doing well. She's fine now, but blood loss was impressive. This baby is fucking perfect, and now I want to be a perfect parent. I'm humbled. You could take all my guns from me right now, as long as I have my wife and baby, I'm good.
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

  23. #4573
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    Jun 2007
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    Hey man, did you run out of diary pages? Congrats dude. Now begins the best work of your life. Sleep whenever you can for the next six months. And thereafter. This will change you. And best of luck.

  24. #4574
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    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,522
    Congrats BS720!!
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  25. #4575
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    SFCA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Hey man, did you run out of diary pages? Congrats dude. Now begins the best work of your life. Sleep whenever you can for the next six months. And thereafter. This will change you. And best of luck.
    Fuck you. I laugh at people counting babies. I'm off to Pavones, Everyone knows there aren't waves in Comifornia. JAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJA.

    Thans, Long Dick. I'm an incredibly happy dude right now. Looks like we are having opening day on Friday, pending wind and, well, nothing. Hope you ungrateful SoCal fucks get your shit pushed in this weekend. Looks like there's plenty to go around.
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

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