Anyone else get some today...?

[Ottime]

Next time shoot me a PM. Fuck 4 mile and it's crowds. Much better waves around with way less crowds.

Did you surf the reef, the parking lot or the county line rock pile at W?

Pretty pic. Surf has looked plenty of fun the last few days. I might even be able to paddle out next week. No surfing, but at least some paddling.

[jorion]

Surfed the break across from the parking lot. There was a left a little to the south but it was pretty mushy.

I'll hit you up next time I make the drive; it might be a while since it's driving (skiing) season!

[Ottime]

Yeah, I drove north on Saturday, and the lot looked decent, but crowded. The reef is south of there, maybe a half mile, where there road is back atop the cliff. It does well on a west, but things need to be right. I've scored ten foot surf there that was hollow and reeling for over a hundred yards. Gone back on a similar looking swell and it is burger close out sections. North of the lot, near the county line, is a rock pile. Smaller surf than the lot, but a nice bowly rampy left at the tide/swell/period. Fun little stretch that beach. Works all summer when there are no winds and works the small northwest days just fine. Just avoid that zone when there is pumping swell. It can get sketch.

I hear ya for ski season, but unless something changes, it is surf season. Off shores and consistent swell versus weeks old thin snow? Should be easy. Surfing will suck, especially up by you, once winter hits, on most days. Gotta take these sunny, off shore stretches and make the most of them. I'd i've been surfing every day I could the last ten if I had the ankle for it. Your pic of T tells it all to me. When that zone looks clean you know its crisp out.

[jorion]

I’m really grateful for the beta, thanks! And yeah, I’ve been surfing five of the past six days, I just took yesterday off to go ski since I need to get the legs strong enough to enjoy when it does get good. I just mean I probably won’t often want to drive to surf when I can walk to it and skiing requires so much car time already.

Ocean Beach was sweet today. I love not having to share a nice fat A Frame.

[Ottime]

Last three days have looked fun at the lane. Took a bunch of pics. Will share soon. Nothing epic, but decent. As I was leaving today grabbed a few frames of Nat. He just delivers on every wave. Good rehab for the ankle; walking lighthouse field and west cliff.

[jorion]

It’s been a little messy up here the last couple days. Today there were some massive waves; too big for me. Just a couple people out on guns surfing monsters.

[BS720]

Heheheheheeeeee. My neighbor didn't make it outside yesterday. Brought me no limit of happiness. Fucking dick.

[Ottime]

I think this was Thursday mid afternoon.

New swell looked a bit raw on Friday. I can only imagine what OB looked like. Swell was down a good bit on Saturday, but still had some of the wobble left in it. Still looked fun on west cliff, but doubt anything west of town was worth paddling out for.

[jackstraw]

Saw some pics from this past week of Nat and some other pro west of town and it looked sick...well, because those guys are...but the waves looked sick too.

[Ottime]

I was walking around on Friday with my camera, rehabbing my ankle. It is funny watching the Lane. Lots of mistakes, missed waves, beautiful waves barely ridden, and occasionally someone who is putting it together most of the time. As I was about to leave I saw Nat's signature red suit catching a wave. Usually I get five or so seconds as the average joe gets set up to make a good hit. He was off the bottom and off the top in two seconds. Barely was able to pull up the camera for the first shot. But the thing about that guy is every fucking turn is beautiful. Sure, that is how most of the pros surf. But it is such fun with the camera. I still have not pulled those off I take a look at them. Maybe tonight.

I can also recall surfing a heavy ledge north of town a few decades ago. This spot is out of the way and sort of secret. That day a crew of 8 or so traveling pros showed up. They just surfed the wave totally differently than me. I was getting shacked, but they were just ruling the shit out of those things. Fun to see from the water as well.

[Ottime]

A few from last week...













More at wave stoke.

[jackstraw]

A few from last week...

Pro turn

[Ottime]

Yeah. Every single one down the line. I was bummed it was time to go once I saw him out. You'd be surprised how hard it is to find a consistent performer there. Plenty of decent to good surfers, and occasionally a bunch of excellent surfers. But on these particular days, only a few out there making good decisions and solid turns. He paddles out and hits three gorgeous turns in a row and then kept on wrapping the wave through the inside. Figured it be ten minutes before he got back to his take off, but yeah, pro turn. I think this was his third turn, where most other guys are coming out of their first turn.

[jackstraw]

The first time I saw him surf I was blown away. I'd never seen a pro surf live before. When you watch on tv they're all pro's, so it's impressive, but they're all similar and there's no regular surfers in the lineup to compare them to. I was at the lane and there were a handful of guys that were good, really good actually imo and then we see a guy in a red suit and my kid thought it was him...he caught a wave...yup, that's him. So much better than those guys I thought were really good.

[whitekingsalmon]

Nate the pride of s cruz.... he's just another guy out in hb pier or hawaii..... channel islands have some waves...caught a few sharks in the net last night

[Ottime]

Who the fuck is Nate? You're a fucking kook douchfish. Highest order. Go get a life and lay off the negativity. Maybe you'll make some friends. Now leave.

[~mikey b]

CRIPPLE FIGHT!

[Atrain505]

Thank you for this thread. I often check for stoke during long work stretches. The last few weeks I've gotten out to my favourite cold water spots in BC and it has been glorious. It was a slow fall for me surf wise as tons of work and days off never seemed to coincide with the necessary large swells and low winds. Real surf is such a blessing. Feeling refreshed and reset after points, visions, and getting destroyed by nature. It even snowed during our surf the last couple days.

I also was lucky to buy two new boards from a buddy for cheap this fall that complete my simple quiver and they fit the bill perfectly. Hopefully this knowledge can pass on. I've always been a craigslist board guy as there are always gems and they are always less than half price. This kinda continues it, but with a friend hookup.

Previous boards I had a groveller for under head high that was short and wide but with a pin tail...the idea being that it gave it more versatility, which is true, but at the sake of speed. My over head high board was a pretty traditional short board with a squash tail. Basically I knew I just wanted to switch the tails and that's exactly what I got and it certainly makes a difference.
Small board has noticeably more speed with a squash tail which for small waves is ideal.
Board for bigger waves is all time with tons of volume in the chest and a pulled in refined tail. It catches waves and then holds beautifully. Way better than the board it replaced. Surfing the same barreling wave a year ago when I had surfed more and was in better shape I still probably messed up half of my drops and felt maxed out on the bottom turn, like I had to baby it. This year I didn't mess up a single one and felt in complete control vs. just barely hanging on. Feeling the subtle differences in design over the years has been almost just as fun as the act itself. Looking forward to a lifetime of more learning. Surf is the best!

[PowerWhore7]

[Long duc dong]

I know you are a troll, but you can do better than this. I sure the hb pier regularly and Nat would destroy just about anyone there.

[Ottime]

Moving on now, talking with the community here. It is fucking cold right now. Kind of makes me a little less bummed I'm on the gimp. I was going to paddle out the long board this past week, just for the paddle and maybe a knee ride or two. Decided against it as walking is my PT, and I'd rather work on getting this foot back in shape as opposed to use my free time not really surfing. Swell has dropped a bit and continues to. Still head high up the coast with morning off shores. I'm sure the ledge that snapped my ankle is in super fun mode right now.

Thank you for this thread. I often check for stoke during long work stretches.

Board for bigger waves is all time with tons of volume in the chest and a pulled in refined tail. It catches waves and then holds beautifully.

Feeling the subtle differences in design over the years has been almost just as fun as the act itself. Looking forward to a lifetime of more learning. Surf is the best!

Dude, thank you for the stoke you film. What I love about this place is the stoked most people bring. It is typically not a dick waving thread, which is really cool. I've surfed with a bunch of posters in this thread and every one of them is filled with stoked.

Volume in the chest with a refined pin describes my 6.6, and that board is designed for head high to DOH+, and acts exactly as you described. Ease of catching the wave, hold and nice release. Love that board.

I love when one's surfing reaches a level where you can really start to feel the differences in design. I'd suggest riding every board you ever get a chance to ride. Even take a beater out for a few waves. Borrow boards and buy cheap ones at garage sales. Especially ones that differ drastically than what you own. I had a 70's Brewer 7.6 I rode as a kid in small waves until I got a long board. That is a 9.3 Rick I still own. Weights 28#, 3" of rockers, huge concave in the fin box and a giant squared keel single fin. I also owned a 7.6 fun gun. These, and many other boards, all helped me refine how I surf, for better or worse.

Stoked you found a board you love. While it is great to try different boards, keep the ones you love close.

[NorCalNomad]

I know you are a troll, but you can do better than this. I sure the hb pier regularly and Nat would destroy just about anyone there.

Except Kanoa ..if the 2017 season is any indicator.

[Long duc dong]

Good point.

I have surfed the south side of the hb pier the last couple of days. I guess the guys who can put nat to shame stayed home.

[whitekingsalmon]

Anyone that's anyone is out in the water wearing board shorts atm.

[Huck Pitueee]

Nice shots! So tempted to surf.