Board Size ?

[mangle]

I currently ride an 07/08 Burton Custom X 158 with Ride CAD bindings and Salomon Malamute boots. I'm 170-175 lbs depending on the week, and about 6'2". I primarily ride Killington, but try to make it out west once a year. I'll be in Jackson Hole for 6 days at the end of March. I have 21 days so far this season, but this is only my second season with more than 10 days.

I bought the board to replace my 02/03 Custom 158 as I wanted something stiffer. Friends on the east coast (I was living in DC at the time) recommended I stay with the 158 length for the Custom X.

Now, my question...

I'm having a bit of an issue getting the board to lock in to a carve at higher speeds on anything firmer than typical east coast hardpack. Will going up to a 160 or a 162 substantially improve this (I'm thinking about buying a new board now)? Is it me (I've gotten to the point where I can tell whether I've initiated the turn well or not...)? Should I just be better about keeping the edges sharpened?

[doughboyshredder]

length is not your issue.

It is not easy to lock in to a carve on super hardpack with a freeride snowboard and soft boots. Alternative edge designs like magnetraction and equalizer help with this. Technique is essential.

also, when comparing different boards the number you should be concentrating on is the effective edge. One companies 162 may have less effective edge than another companies 158, making it less stable for carving than the 158.

[mangle]

Excellent. Thanks!

As for technique on ice, I should be working on being smoother about transitioning weight from front at the turn initiation to middle to back at the exit?

[coolcheech]

I second what doughboy said, length is fine.

For riding ice, just remember lower edge angle, and yes, keep your edges sharp. I might have a little OCD, but I keep my edges at a 2 degree bevel, and sharpen them about once every other week. Then again, I've been a season pass holder at the infamous Hunter "Jersey Shore" Mountain since I was about 3, so I've seen my fare share of ice (and guidos).

The technique you mentioned (shifting your weight from the nose to the tail during various parts of the turn) will really help your carving, but not on ice. For ice I've experimented with keeping my weight on my front foot and back foot, and right now I'm having some success with just keeping centered, sliding the turn, and really pushing hard with my back foot right at the moment I switch edges. It helps me pop into the next turn (slide?). Writing this down without some visual aide is retarded, and I'm tempted to just delete this paragraph, but if you can make any sense of what I just said I guess it's better than nothing.

Also, when I say "push hard with my back foot," I don't mean that windshield wiper shit that people always do.

[stuckathuntermtn]

ride binding and salomon boots on a burton board?! you sir, are responsible for earthquakes.

[shrtbus7]

Listen to doughboy. Your length is alright, although there would be no problem with you going to a 162 or around there. I'm 5'7" 160#s and ride a 157 and love it. Try Lib tech or Gnu. The magnatraction will really help your edge hold, especially if you ski alot on ice, although you shouldn't find any in JH. The ride CAD bindings are awesome. I got a pair this year and love them. Even the slightest weight shift transfers directly into the board. I love the adjustability as well.

[mangle]

I spent a week in Jackson at the end of March and learned a few things. First, I found a deal on a T6 162 I couldn't pass up. The edges were much sharper than I keep them on the other boards. That thing completely transformed icy morning groomers and made them fun. Confidence in being able to hold an edge in moderate angle ice groomers = mucho speed.

We then got something like 15" of snow that covered up rocks on the rest of the mountain. It looks like I ground off a few sections of the edges pretty good, but didn't score up the base too bad. I see a bit of filing in my future.