Cooking Kinco Gloves...

[axebiker]

BUT...I'm not planning on losing my expensive jacket, skis, etc... My bindings are screwed on to my skis. Since I'm not going to lose my skis, then my bindings should be safe. I buy cheap goggles, so I cant comment there... My gloves are only abused slightly less than my boots.

What if I'm in line with my new Flylow jacket and pants, and I've got my NEW Kinco's on...then do I get a pass? Cuz if you make fun of me, my feelings will surely be HORRIBLY hurt...cuz I care so much... .

Either that, or we'll just have to THROW DOWN!!!

[DropCliffsNotBombs]

What if I'm in line with my new Flylow jacket and pants, and I've got my NEW Kinco's on...then do I get a pass?

Only if you have a pom-pom hat on and are rocking a shitty mustache and Carhartts do you get a pass, sir.

[axebiker]

Only if you have a pom-pom hat on and are rocking a shitty mustache and Carhartts do you get a pass, sir.

Shit...

[old goat]

What's wrong with having one pair of gloves you can shovel snow with, split wood with, chop ice with throw snowballs with your dog with, push cars out of a ditch with, and ski with? Mine are new because I wore out one pair, and a marmot ate the cuff of the other pair. Don't leave your Hestras where marmots can get them, although maybe marmots wouldn't touch that bourgeois shit.
BTW, the directions for cooking Kincos work for marmots, if you like them rare.

[nickwm21]

BUMP

I found a new product: http://www.bootbarn.com/Boot-Barn%C2...efault,pd.html

I recently bought some new work boots at Boot Barn and they gave me a spray bottle of the above for free. After being happy with the results of using it on both old and new boots, I tried it on my worn out, crusty, stiff, triple baked, Kinkos. The lotion returned the supple and softness of the gloves and removed the stiff, waxy snoseal feeling. BUT the lotion did not take away the waterproof-ness.

Definitely recommend to fellow Kinko aficionados. There is probably a better boot oil/lotion product than Boot Barn's, but you can't beat free....

[XXX-er]

What's wrong with having one pair of gloves you can shovel snow with, split wood with, chop ice with throw snowballs with your dog with, push cars out of a ditch with, and ski with? Mine are new because I wore out one pair, and a marmot ate the cuff of the other pair. Don't leave your Hestras where marmots can get them, although maybe marmots wouldn't touch that bourgeois shit.
BTW, the directions for cooking Kincos work for marmots, if you like them rare.

My buddies kid said he wanted 2 pairs of runners at 100$ + so ski bud asked isn't thats excessive ?

junior said "but yer a doctor dad!"

for snow sealing any glove I grip a heat gun or hair dryer between my knees, gloves on hands dip the jar and rub it in to the glove

[Hypnotoad]

Hairdryer. Keep the snoseal off the dryer or your wife will kill you. If it's your own hairdryer you should be posting on epic ski.

Still one of my favorite posts ever.

[east or bust]

My technique is slightly different than those posted. I have had good success with the seal lasting the life of the glove.

1) Turn on the oven to 250
2) Put gloves on, apply snoseal with "handwashing technique"
3) stick in oven for 5 min (over tin foil)
4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 until leather is saturated and dark
5) stick gloves in oven, turn off heat, forget about the gloves for a while
6) remove gloves when oven has cooled.

The gloves come out "baked", kinda crispy rather than waxy and soft. When they are waxy and soft, not fully baked, they tend to loose waterproofness with use. My technique seems to keep the waterproofness longer

BUMP

I picked up another pair of flylow ridge gloves that were on sale before I found out they didn't bake the newer colored ones. Luckily I had some sno seal handy and decided to more or less go with this technique.

Oven to 225, lathered gloves with wax, put them in for 5 minutes. Repeated this 3 times and then bumped it up to 250 for the cool down.

The finish on the gloves came out great, I wouldn't necessarily call them crispy but they came out less tacky and soft than my past reapplications using the hair dryer method. The trade off was they were stiff as a board. Scrunching them up helped to break in the leather a bit. Still not as dexterous as my 3y/o ridge gloves but I am expecting them to break in nicely.

The oven temperature also had no ill effects on the gloves.

Before



After

[nickwm21]

Kinco has a new (well new to my knowledge) ski specific glove. The 900max. Basically a 901 in black with a full grain back, metal carabiner in lieu of the plastic clip, and wrist leashes. Price is $40. I'll stick with the $15 94hks.

[Bobcat Sig]

BUMP

I picked up another pair of flylow ridge gloves that were on sale before I found out they didn't bake the newer colored ones. Luckily I had some sno seal handy and decided to more or less go with this technique.

Oven to 225, lathered gloves with wax, put them in for 5 minutes. Repeated this 3 times and then bumped it up to 250 for the cool down.

The finish on the gloves came out great, I wouldn't necessarily call them crispy but they came out less tacky and soft than my past reapplications using the hair dryer method. The trade off was they were stiff as a board. Scrunching them up helped to break in the leather a bit. Still not as dexterous as my 3y/o ridge gloves but I am expecting them to break in nicely.

The oven temperature also had no ill effects on the gloves.

Before



After

I'm going to guess that your gloves are so stiff after that method is because you effectively dehydrated the leather by leaving them in the oven for that cool down process.

[MagnificentUnicorn]

I'm going to guess that your gloves are so stiff after that method is because you effectively dehydrated the leather by leaving them in the oven for that cool down process.

That and they're over saturated with Sno-Seal. After some research I've come to the conclusion that Obenauf's or Hubberd's leather treatment applied lightly and not heated is a better way to go.

[east or bust]

Jury's out I guess, if they do break in they will be far more water resistant than any other leather glove I've had. Though, if it remains as warm as it has been so far I'll never get a chance to break em in anyway.

[MagnificentUnicorn]

Jury's out I guess, if they do break in they will be far more water resistant than any other leather glove I've had. Though, if it remains as warm as it has been so far I'll never get a chance to break em in anyway.

That hasn't been my experience with over saturating leather gloves with sno-seal. There's a point where too much makes it worse.

[Bobcat Sig]

That and they're over saturated with Sno-Seal. After some research I've come to the conclusion that Obenauf's or Hubberd's leather treatment applied lightly and not heated is a better way to go.

I've tried Obenauf's in the past; it's too sticky. It's great for leather boots, but too damn tacky for gloves, heated or not.

[Peruvian]

Mink oil keeps them soft and supple. Sno-seal makes the hard and shiny.

[MagnificentUnicorn]

I've tried Obenauf's in the past; it's too sticky. It's great for leather boots, but too damn tacky for gloves, heated or not.

Obenauf's is too sticky AND expensive. Hubberd's has basically the same ingredients but is not sticky and is less expensive.

[Bobcat Sig]

Mink oil keeps them soft and supple. Sno-seal makes the hard and shiny.

Since we're on the subject, another product I've used is Skinners; out of Wyoming.

Obenauf's is too sticky AND expensive. Hubberd's has basically the same ingredients but is not sticky and is less expensive.

Ooh, I'll have to give that a try.

[Bobcat Sig]

Needs moar stikarz!!

[mdb09]

My technique is slightly different than those posted. I have had good success with the seal lasting the life of the glove.

1) Turn on the oven to 250
2) Put gloves on, apply snoseal with "handwashing technique"
3) stick in oven for 5 min (over tin foil)
4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 until leather is saturated and dark
5) stick gloves in oven, turn off heat, forget about the gloves for a while
6) remove gloves when oven has cooled.

The gloves come out "baked", kinda crispy rather than waxy and soft. When they are waxy and soft, not fully baked, they tend to loose waterproofness with use. My technique seems to keep the waterproofness longer

Perfect, thanks

[axebiker]

Mink oil oxidizes though and will get "rancid", so over time, it will eventually rot the seams/threads/etc. There are some organic materials that break down leather over time.

[Foggy_Goggles]

You guys are trying to hard. Kincos are cheap work gloves. You buys them because they are cheap and you don't give a shit. Here's what I know.

The double palm/fingers versions suck. The stitching wears out and the patches fall off.

Sno Seal is best if you do moderate applications and wear them for a few days in between.


these are pretty good


these Wells Lamont ones are better and 2/$20 at Costco


These Chilly Grips are as good as and spring skiing glove I've used

[axebiker]

bump!

[oftpiste]

I'll see your bump and raise with "where the fuck can you buy Snoseal anymore?". Can't seem to find it anywhere, and it seems overkill to buy it from Amazon.

[markcjr]

One reason to get Kinkos extra large verse the flylow that are already cooked is that flylow extra large does not fit my extra large hand where as Kinkos extra large fits my extra large hand. All you gotta do is cook them. I don't even cook them I just put them on top of a portable electric radiator on a cookie sheet. Heat them up to open pores in leather, and then slap Sno seal on them. Sno seal even says that it is not a good idea to bake again after you have applied the Sno seal. All you want to do is heat the glove up and apply the Sno seal and let it dry. Not cook again. So I don't know why flylow does the triple baking process. Not necessary.

[oftpiste]

Whatever Flylow does it seems to work. The ones I wore out after 3-4 seasons never, as far as I could tell, absorbed a single drop of water, even in the pacific north-wet.