Hokkaido - Help out a gaijin

[noflyzone_allstars]

My wife and I will be on Hokkaido for a week around New Years looking for pow and an adventure away from western-style ski resorts. We are looking to hit Asahidake, Kamui Links, nearby bc, generally stuff in the Daisetsuzan National Park area. Seems like a decent bet for early season snow, open boundaries, minimal crowds and a pretty exotic location. I'm a Japan virgin so please point out any fatal flaws to this scheme.

Not speaking or reading Japanese, I'm really struggling with figuring out and booking accommodations or even what town(s) to stay in. Can anyone recommend some cool spots to base from or a travel agent, maybe out of Furano, who could help with this? Definitely not looking for all-inclusive packages or fancy hotels, just a liaison/translator basically.

I put a feeler out to Hokkaido Powder Guides - anyone familiar with them? If they're flexible with the tours on their site (and prices) or like to play travel agent, it might help us a lot.

Getting around - Renting a car probably costs a ton and navigating could be intimidating. Hauling shit around on trains and buses could suck too. Any suggestions?

Thanks maggots, we'll be sure to bring back some stoke.

[n_waggoner]

Hey man, definitely a doable trip, and you're in for a good ride. bring your touring gear-- asahidake is a lift-accessed backcountry gem. be aware that you can get in pretty deep there, so dont underestimate lines that sometimes require mandatory hucks at the bottom, or drainages that will get you turned around and lost. My best advice--- get to Asahidake, and hook up with a local for the first two laps just to get your bearings. it goes a LONG way there, and they'll give you all the beta about prevailing wind and the spots that fill in.

As far as renting a car, I would. The buses and trains are comfortable, but I really couldn't imagine making it work unless you only want to stay in Asahidake (which would be totally fine and wonderfully quiet). There's a hostel ($35 a night) there that Chuck from HPG can probably hook you up with, or check out a lonely planet guide.

Skip Kamui ski links-- no need to go there. Check out our work-- we just premiered our Film SIGNATURES last night in Tokyo and are on our way to Sapporo this week. It features a full season in Hokkaido and a lot of the areas you heading to.
www.Sweetgrass-Productions.com. our blog has some photos that should get you stoked. I'm happy your making it over this way...you may never return.

[splat]

Ask on the forums at poachninja.com.

[neck beard]

If it is only for a week and you don’t want to rent a car, try this: get yourself to Tokachidake (“Mount Tokachi") in the Daisetsuzan National Park. No lifts, just trees, alpine and powder. There is a big onsen there with cheap good backpacker style accommodation. You can buy food there or cook your own. They sell beer. Once you are at Tokachi you don’t need to leave until your last day. Downside: you miss the pretty good slackcountry of Asahi an hour or so drive away (Asahi also has some huge flat areas mixed in with what N_W described)

The huge and stinking hot indoor and outdoor hot spring at Tokachidake alone are worth it. There is even one for mixed sexes, but you have to wear shorts.

You want to stay at a place called Hakuginso at Tokachi Onsen. It is right at one of the trail heads, like 10 meters from the door. My wife and I have camped in the car park for a week. You can get there by public transport.

Heaps of good info on the local tourism page
http://www.furano-kankou.com/english...Hakuginso.html

The Japanese page
http://www.navi-kita.net/shisetsu/hakugin/

And just a small walk from there is an outdoor hot spring in the woods.
http://www2.gol.com/users/jolsen/onsen/fukiage.html

If you want to pay a local Japanese ski guide that knows Tokachi well, I can get you in touch with one. He is a cool guy and speaks some English, but not much.


(Note, it isn’t this place http://www.hakuginso.com/)

ps – this is what I would have told you on poachninja.com anyway

pps - All road signs are in English and Japanese, so don't worry if you do decide to rent a car, which is a good idea to get the most out of the entire area.

[noflyzone_allstars]

Thanks all!
Hohes - Stoked to know about Tokachi and especially the English road signs.
NW - Signatures trailer is pretty much exactly how I am imagining this trip, minus the back flips and plus some onsen soaking, sake drinking and exotic feasts.

Anything to be aware of around the New Year holiday? crowds? stuff being closed?

What are your preferred local foods for throwing in the pack and fueling an all-day tour? Something tells me they don't have fig newtons and $5 footlongs.

[Helldawg]

Wow, what is afoot here? 11 posts, and he gets all sorts of helpful answers?

What have you bastards done with the real TGR forum???

[Cheesecake]

Dont come to Tokachi. Its ugly, cold and mountains dont exist here. Plus there are too many damn japanese people.

On a serious note, word on the street is this year might be lower than average for snow fall. Thats what they are saying but who knows.

Its japan. Drink lots of alcohol and you will be sure to have a good time.

[TeleHoar]

Sweet.

I'll be in Japan around that time too.
It's a business/pleasure trip but I hope to maybe get some time to go ski.

I'll be on a cruise ship in the ports of Tokyo/Osaka/Kobe area. Go book a dinner cruise on the Pacific Venus (Dec 15-25th) and watch me try to entertain an entire Japanese audience.

[hutash]

Sweet.

I'll be in Japan around that time too.
It's a business/pleasure trip but I hope to maybe get some time to go ski.

I'll be on a cruise ship in the ports of Tokyo/Osaka/Kobe area. Go book a dinner cruise on the Pacific Venus (Dec 15-25th) and watch me try to entertain an entire Japanese audience.

Getting back on the comedy circuit? Good luck and hope you kill them. How does a routine translate into Japanese?

[TeleHoar]

Getting back on the comedy circuit? Good luck and hope you kill them. How does a routine translate into Japanese?

Yes...getting back on the horse again.
An old agent of mine found me on the net and wanted to know if I was interested...HELL YEAH.

I don't speak a word of Japanese...this will be my MIME show....heh.
(I'm only doing two 3.5 minutes spots each show, so no prob)

[hutash]

Yes...getting back on the horse again.
An old agent of mine found me on the net and wanted to know if I was interested...HELL YEAH.

I don't speak a word of Japanese...this will be my MIME show....heh.
(I'm only doing two 3.5 minutes spots each show, so no prob)

Way cool, the depth of talent here at TGR never ceases to amaze me.

I hope we get a TR out of this..hint, hint.

[neck beard]

Thanks all!

Anything to be aware of around the New Year holiday? crowds? stuff being closed?

What are your preferred local foods for throwing in the pack and fueling an all-day tour? Something tells me they don't have fig newtons and $5 footlongs.

Yep, new years time is a busy holiday in Japan.

A lot of people grab rice balls wrapped in dry seaeed from convenience stores for a day of hiking. They don't keep very well though - you want to eat them within 24 hours or they dry out. They are not a ball, they are triangular in shape, called onigiri, the tuna and mayo ones are probably the best - but you wont be able to read the wrapper anyway.

[StuntCok]

Here is where the collective at poachninja would have known better. The biggest discovery last year first by Daryl and then by FT was the invention of Lawson's "L Chiki". A deep fried chicken breast not unlike KFC but for 160 yen and it actually stays crisp in the pocket of a ski jacket long enough for a morning purchase to last until lunch time. This is perhaps one of Japan's biggest inventions since the Tamogochi or even the walkman. L Chiki has become so popular that the other convenience stores are immitating them but ACCEPT NO SUBSTITUTES. Lawson L Chicki is all you need.

[n_waggoner]

SoyJoy bars are a little expensive but damn tasty. Onigiri rice triangles are delicious, but white rice doesn't really fuel my body for too long. I could eat about 32 of them in a day, and I have.

In Niseko there's a good bakery called Hanajizo on your way up to Hirafu from Kutchan, and if there's a god in this world, there should be one of these wherever snow flies. They've got good bread that is whole grain, not styrofoam, and makes for good sandwiches that will keep you going a little longer. But that's just my take.

You can also buy dried squid and pretty much any other type of sea organism at Lawson, Seicomart, and 711, and it's good protein for cheap.

The L Chiki fried chicken is damn delicious. Damn Delicious. Just be careful-- it's easy to eat like shit in Japan if you're focused on eating cheap. You'll come back fat and gnarly with a food hangover and a couple pounds of salt in your body.

[bio-smear]

I like this thread.

Are Japanese people mean to ignorant American tourists, like Americans are to foreign ESL tourists here in the US? I think a trip to Japan sounds incredible, but I won't lie, I am terribly intimidated by non-western character sets and feeling dependent on a better educated society to help little old English-speaking-only me get around. Are they as kind, polite, and accommodating as my 1st generation hair stylist is?

[StuntCok]

I like this thread.

Are Japanese people mean to ignorant American tourists, like Americans are to foreign ESL tourists here in the US? I think a trip to Japan sounds incredible, but I won't lie, I am terribly intimidated by non-western character sets and feeling dependent on a better educated society to help little old English-speaking-only me get around. Are they as kind, polite, and accommodating as my 1st generation hair stylist is?

Japan is polite and kind and accomodating. There is little reason to be intimidated by the locals. THe biggest problem in a ski town is getting in a fight with some drunken Aussie yob, to be honest.

I resent that anyone would call the L Chicki "shit". I suppose you are going to disparage chu-hai next? For those that don't know, one can get a tall can of 8% alcohol "chuhai" (like a alcopop but better) for a little more than a similar sized PET bottle of coca cola.

[fumbduck]

PET bottle? Not sure that's real english. Too long in Japan.

[Spats]

I think a trip to Japan sounds incredible, but I won't lie, I am terribly intimidated by non-western character sets and feeling dependent on a better educated society to help little old English-speaking-only me get around. Are they as kind, polite, and accommodating as my 1st generation hair stylist is?

My experience: learn the basic vocabulary and etiquette, and people will be very nice and helpful: Excuse me, Please, Thank you, Hello, Goodbye, (I want) That one, Where is the bathroom? (Translation left as exercise for the reader)

A few basic etiquette tips:
-It is rude to eat while standing up.
-It is rude to blow your nose in public.
-Japanese people will almost never say "No" directly to you. Any answer but "Yes" generally means "No." "That will be difficult" is a classic way to say "No."

PROTIP: Most Japanese don't speak English, but a lot of them understand words of written English. Carry a note pad and a pen: people can often draw you directions if they understand where you're trying to go.

[StuntCok]

PET bottle? Not sure that's real english. Too long in Japan.

I looked it up and it is real english I guess it is just not something commonly used by people who speak english. I have been here too long, it seems. Anyway, it is just a plastic 500ml bottle. 200 yen (roughly 2 dollars) for 500ml of 8% alcohol purchased at a convenient store (not in bulk, chilled and by the can) is one of the cheapest ways to get drunk in the developed world. If one want's to step outside the developed world, the vending machine at FT's lodge is perhaps the cheapest way to get drunk in the world without distilling your own apple cores.

[neck beard]

SoyJoy bars are a little expensive but damn tasty.

Ahhh! You did it, you dropped the Soy Joy bomb on TGR. Fukin awesome! Every time I eat one of them hiking I wonder what the typical Maggot would think of the name.



Splat - I think it is ok to eat standing up because there are quite a few places where it is done. Perhaps more so it is rude to eat whilst walking around, or on the train.

And there is no need to fear being foriegn in Japan. Very nice people. The biggest thing you have to fear is the irrational but common and understandable feeling of being so very different if it is your first time in such a place. In Japan it is consiered rude to be rude, if that makes sense, so expect most people to be nice, even if being rude would be much easier for them.

Hokkaido stoke.

[TeleHoar]

Splat - I think it is ok to eat standing up because there are quite a few places where it is done. Perhaps more so it is rude to eat whilst walking around, or on the train.

I made this mistake last time I was there. Bought some chips and a soda and took it on the subway...started eating as I was sitting there and one-by-one people left the car till I was alone. I learned later that I was very rude and purchases from the vending machines are meant to be eaten WHILE STANDING AT THE VENDING MACHINE. when you are done ...then you can move on.

[hutash]

In Japan it is consiered rude to be rude, if that makes sense, so expect most people to be nice, even if being rude would be much easier for them.

If only Americans could learn this simple concept.

I have found in most of my travels that politeness is returned with politeness.

Like my 6 year old daughter said to a friend after her friend said my wife was strict..."No she's not, you just have to say please and thank you a lot."

Please and thank you go a long way in any language.

[telepariah]

If you are going to Tokachi, there is a great supermarket in Biei that will have all kinds of good food to fuel your day. I like to load up on croquettes for the higher fat content. And the salmon onigiri are almost as good as the tuna and mayo ones. A few mikan (clemetines) in your pack sure do taste good along the skintrack. Also, while it is not Japanese food, some of the convenience stores even have burritos. Sunkiss (pronounced Sanks like thanks), if I remember has a good ham and cheese sandwich wrapped in a tortilla, or at least it did 15 years ago. Also great little salads like potato salad or macaroni salad as well as mini sandwiches are abundant in any convenience store. Convenience store sushi is actually really good, as are bento boxes for lunch.

Drink lots of miso soup. It's yummy, has plenty of protein, and it keeps you regular.

Don't smother anything, especially rice, in soy sauce. Your polite hosts will assume you made a mistake and will bring you a fresh bowl of rice.

Much more than eating standing up or blowing one's nose one of the worst things you can do is standing your chopsticks up in a bowl of rice. Lay them across the top. Seriously. Standing chopsticks is an offering to the dead an only that.

People will be happy to help you and if you use just a little rudimentrary Japanese, they will be impressed. In some small towns they may be surprised but also think you are fluent and then hit you with an avalanche of rapid fire Japanese. Don't worry, it won't take them long to figure out you really don't understand a thing.

As a foreigner, you won't really be expected to know all the ins and outs of etiquette. People will cut you slack just for being a gaijin. And if that fails, as long as you are drunk, almost anything that's not illegal can be explained away. Just be sure you bring a spare liver and don't try to keep up drink for drink with your Japanese hosts. You will lose.

[noflyzone_allstars]

Right on Maggots! Thought I was getting the JONG treatment there with the mimes on a cruise ship stuff (not that there's anything wrong with that TeleHoar).

Keep the Japan tips coming! For skiing I figure we can just show up, find some snow and point 'em downhill, but without you all, we'd never know about L Chiki, soy joy and chuhai.

[satori]

Thanks all!
Hohes - Stoked to know about Tokachi and especially the English road signs.
NW - Signatures trailer is pretty much exactly how I am imagining this trip, minus the back flips and plus some onsen soaking, sake drinking and exotic feasts.

Anything to be aware of around the New Year holiday? crowds? stuff being closed?

What are your preferred local foods for throwing in the pack and fueling an all-day tour? Something tells me they don't have fig newtons and $5 footlongs.

Tsonda, myself, and 2 of our Japanese mates will be staying up at Tokachi at Hakuginso from around the 29th/30th-4th I believe. Actually Tson wont be there as he will be at some uppity-class joint with his missus, but we will be bumming it there. Might see you around