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  1. #76
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Colorado
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    1,817

    Stripped binding hole - best epoxy filler (steelwool, colloidal silica, fiberglass)

    Tried the fiberglass epoxy method. On the Rossignol I just had one screw slightly stripped. Added a ton of fiberglass (not a lot of epoxy) 1/2 inch strips cut from fiberglass cloth. Put a little less but still some in the non stripped holes, was able to crank the stripped screw almost all the way while wet.

    Also had another pair of skis that had a badly stripped hole. First attempt to repair I don't think I put enough pressure on the screw when screwing in, spun in the hole a lot even with fiberglass. Removed all the screws, refilled with the mix again. This time watched the screw depth, screwed it down almost all the way. Felt like the screw still had no bite, so I was skeptical it'd hold. But next day, went to tighten the spinners on both skis and I could tighten them "white knuckle tight".

    Very pleased with results. Most annoying part was stuffing the fiberglass into the holes with matches, kept getting pulled back out. Thanks for the help all

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    17,855
    Quote Originally Posted by Muggydude View Post
    Tried the fiberglass epoxy method.

    Also had another pair of skis that had a badly stripped hole. First attempt to repair I don't think I put enough pressure on the screw when screwing in, spun in the hole a lot even with fiberglass. Removed all the screws, refilled with the mix again. This time watched the screw depth, screwed it down almost all the way. Felt like the screw still had no bite, so I was skeptical it'd hold. But next day, went to tighten the spinners on both skis and I could tighten them "white knuckle tight".

    Very pleased with results. Most annoying part was stuffing the fiberglass into the holes with matches, kept getting pulled back out. Thanks for the help all
    Right so what you figured out is that the hole is fucked cuz the screw has spun and so all its gona do is spin some more

    BUT if you cram the epoxy & FG in there, do the screw up till it is ABOUT to spin

    Let the slow set cure for 24hrs ... you will be able to crank em white knuckle
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    31
    I've been trying to figure out the fiberglass repair method, but I'm having trouble getting screws into stuffed holes; the screws seem to bottom quickly against fiberglass in the bottom of the hole and spin really easily. Any advice? Do you really want to cram the hole full, or just have enough glass to hug the screw?

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  4. #79
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    17,855
    maybe somewhere between, I mix up a little FG & epoxy so its not too resin rich but the strands are still well wetted out

    the idea is to run the screws into the hole with the FG & epoxy until they are just about to spin and then leave the epoxy to set,

    after the epoxy sets you hopefully have made new threads and you can crank the screws down hard
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    31
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    maybe somewhere between, I mix up a little FG & epoxy so its not too resin rich but the strands are still well wetted out

    the idea is to run the screws into the hole with the FG & epoxy until they are just about to spin and then leave the epoxy to set,

    after the epoxy sets you hopefully have made new threads and you can crank the screws down hard
    Thanks! How much fg/epoxy do you usually get volcanoing out of the hole? I started down this road partially because some fks heel screws have nowhere for volcanoed material to go, and my heel had a bit of play owing to that material.

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  6. #81
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    17,855
    I cram as much epoxy & FG strands mixture as I can in the hole and run the screw in, it will be a soft gloppy mixture so volcanos are not really an issue

    it sounds like the original mount had volcanos which didn't let the binding sit flat, i've heard the heels of this binding are more likely to pull out than bindings with rails where the mounting screws are farther apart

    If you have a volcano from the 1st time the binding was mounted I would chamfer the top of the hole with a 3/8th drill rotated GENTLY by hand, a light chamfer ( just enough to countersink the hole & remove a bit of the top sheet ) will leave room for whatever epoxy/FG mixture wants to splooge out

    once the epoxy cures you can take the screw out if you need to, the epoxy will likely be sticking to the screw so you might have to use a little heat on the screw head to break the bond but the threads in the hole should be renewed, for the final instal just use a little more epoxy and you should be able to crank the screws down hard
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    31
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I cram as much epoxy & FG strands mixture as I can in the hole and run the screw in, it will be a soft gloppy mixture so volcanos are not really an issue

    it sounds like the original mount had volcanos which didn't let the binding sit flat, i've heard the heels of this binding are more likely to pull out than bindings with rails where the mounting screws are farther apart

    If you have a volcano from the 1st time the binding was mounted I would chamfer the top of the hole with a 3/8th drill rotated GENTLY by hand, a light chamfer ( just enough to countersink the hole & remove a bit of the top sheet ) will leave room for whatever epoxy/FG mixture wants to splooge out

    once the epoxy cures you can take the screw out if you need to, the epoxy will likely be sticking to the screw so you might have to use a little heat on the screw head to break the bond but the threads in the hole should be renewed, for the final instal just use a little more epoxy and you should be able to crank the screws down hard
    Thanks for the detailed description! I didn't hold out much hope that my current attempt would work, but sure enough I was able to really crank bindings down after the epoxy cured. I had used a very glass-heavy mixture, with fairly full holes, and I thought most of the screws were spinners when driving them in.

    I used a small hand plane to remove volcanoes previously, and the heels feel much tighter on the skis than they did with my last mount. I think in the future I'll be drilling with a 4.1mm bit and tapping irrespective of ski label, then installing with epoxy. I think that will reduce the likelihood of spinners and of volcano issues under the bindings.

    Thanks again, XXX-er, your instructions were hugely helpful.

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  8. #83
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    17,855
    Quote Originally Posted by goran View Post
    Thanks for the detailed description! I didn't hold out much hope that my current attempt would work, but sure enough I was able to really crank bindings down after the epoxy cured. I had used a very glass-heavy mixture, with fairly full holes, and I thought most of the screws were spinners when driving them in.

    I used a small hand plane to remove volcanoes previously, and the heels feel much tighter on the skis than they did with my last mount. I think in the future I'll be drilling with a 4.1mm bit and tapping irrespective of ski label, then installing with epoxy. I think that will reduce the likelihood of spinners and of volcano issues under the bindings.
    p[/URL]
    OK so you just rebuilt the threads in the binding holes of your skis ... another happy camper eh

    yeah so the reason you want that resin/fg mixture wetted out but mostly glass rich is that too much resin makes for weaker products and/or fixes

    I just use any old 5/32nd bit cuz this is not rocket science, I don't use a tap, I do drill thru a wine bottle cork to limit drill penetration instead of drilling thru the bases

    after drilling binding holes if I rotate a 3/8ths bit by hand to remove some chamfer from the hole I don't get volcano's,


    those screws are now glued to the holes so if you ever need to take them out use heat on the screw heads BEFORE you strip the heads
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    17,855
    Quote Originally Posted by DropCliffsNotBombs View Post
    Why over think what is in reality a "field repair?" No ski shops are using steel wool, saw dust, or putty in their repairs.
    well they are shops so what they do every day to make money is use the ski fixing products they ordered before the season started and they wana make 75$ an hr

    whereas having Macgyvered all kinds of HW together for many yars, its probably a Thursday nite, I got a beverage(s) going, SO I look around the place at what I got that will work for 1 fix tonight

    IME I always got epoxy, FG, BBQ sqewers kicking around so i don't have to go out or buy anything and shit is ready to go for the weekend

    it has always held even on a tele mount
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,599
    Quote Originally Posted by goran View Post
    I used a small hand plane to remove volcanoes previously, and the heels feel much tighter on the skis than they did with my last mount. I think in the future I'll be drilling with a 4.1mm bit and tapping irrespective of ski label, then installing with epoxy. I think that will reduce the likelihood of spinners and of volcano issues under the bindings.
    Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app
    Either get an actual ski bit or do as XXX'r suggested w/ oversized bit hand spun to slightly countersink hole. The shoulder of a ski bit is designed to countersink that holeClick image for larger version. 

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    Hole should look like thisClick image for larger version. 

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  11. #86
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    31
    I don't have a picture on me, but my dedicated ski bit has a shoulder that is too flat to really countersink much. Also, the volcanos my first mount had were huge, (multiple millimeters for sure)- much more volume than the countersink would have removed. But maybe that was just the ski (Rossi black ops)?

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  12. #87
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    7B Selkirks USA
    Posts
    604
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	278173. Just putting this here to say this tool rocks. If plugging a hole with bamboo skewers or plugs and epoxy; This tool will flush cut to the topsheet as clean as a razor in seconds. Iím gonna get a cheap one at harbor freight.

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sun Valley, ID
    Posts
    1,586
    Quote Originally Posted by Kootenai View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	43 
Size:	1.12 MB 
ID:	278173. Just putting this here to say this tool rocks. If plugging a hole with bamboo skewers or plugs and epoxy; This tool will flush cut to the topsheet as clean as a razor in seconds. Iím gonna get a cheap one at harbor freight.
    What is it?

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    4,520
    Oscillating tool. They are wonderful.
    PE, Mechanical Engineering
    University of Bridger Bowl Alumnus
    Alpental Creeper

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    7B Selkirks USA
    Posts
    604
    Quote Originally Posted by CaliBrit View Post
    What is it?
    https://www.harborfreight.com/power-...ool-63111.html

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