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  1. #76
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    Jan 2009
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    130
    I've been trying to figure out the fiberglass repair method, but I'm having trouble getting screws into stuffed holes; the screws seem to bottom quickly against fiberglass in the bottom of the hole and spin really easily. Any advice? Do you really want to cram the hole full, or just have enough glass to hug the screw?

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  2. #77
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    Mar 2008
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    maybe somewhere between, I mix up a little FG & epoxy so its not too resin rich but the strands are still well wetted out

    the idea is to run the screws into the hole with the FG & epoxy until they are just about to spin and then leave the epoxy to set,

    after the epoxy sets you hopefully have made new threads and you can crank the screws down hard
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    130
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    maybe somewhere between, I mix up a little FG & epoxy so its not too resin rich but the strands are still well wetted out

    the idea is to run the screws into the hole with the FG & epoxy until they are just about to spin and then leave the epoxy to set,

    after the epoxy sets you hopefully have made new threads and you can crank the screws down hard
    Thanks! How much fg/epoxy do you usually get volcanoing out of the hole? I started down this road partially because some fks heel screws have nowhere for volcanoed material to go, and my heel had a bit of play owing to that material.

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  4. #79
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    Mar 2008
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    I cram as much epoxy & FG strands mixture as I can in the hole and run the screw in, it will be a soft gloppy mixture so volcanos are not really an issue

    it sounds like the original mount had volcanos which didn't let the binding sit flat, i've heard the heels of this binding are more likely to pull out than bindings with rails where the mounting screws are farther apart

    If you have a volcano from the 1st time the binding was mounted I would chamfer the top of the hole with a 3/8th drill rotated GENTLY by hand, a light chamfer ( just enough to countersink the hole & remove a bit of the top sheet ) will leave room for whatever epoxy/FG mixture wants to splooge out

    once the epoxy cures you can take the screw out if you need to, the epoxy will likely be sticking to the screw so you might have to use a little heat on the screw head to break the bond but the threads in the hole should be renewed, for the final instal just use a little more epoxy and you should be able to crank the screws down hard
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I cram as much epoxy & FG strands mixture as I can in the hole and run the screw in, it will be a soft gloppy mixture so volcanos are not really an issue

    it sounds like the original mount had volcanos which didn't let the binding sit flat, i've heard the heels of this binding are more likely to pull out than bindings with rails where the mounting screws are farther apart

    If you have a volcano from the 1st time the binding was mounted I would chamfer the top of the hole with a 3/8th drill rotated GENTLY by hand, a light chamfer ( just enough to countersink the hole & remove a bit of the top sheet ) will leave room for whatever epoxy/FG mixture wants to splooge out

    once the epoxy cures you can take the screw out if you need to, the epoxy will likely be sticking to the screw so you might have to use a little heat on the screw head to break the bond but the threads in the hole should be renewed, for the final instal just use a little more epoxy and you should be able to crank the screws down hard
    Thanks for the detailed description! I didn't hold out much hope that my current attempt would work, but sure enough I was able to really crank bindings down after the epoxy cured. I had used a very glass-heavy mixture, with fairly full holes, and I thought most of the screws were spinners when driving them in.

    I used a small hand plane to remove volcanoes previously, and the heels feel much tighter on the skis than they did with my last mount. I think in the future I'll be drilling with a 4.1mm bit and tapping irrespective of ski label, then installing with epoxy. I think that will reduce the likelihood of spinners and of volcano issues under the bindings.

    Thanks again, XXX-er, your instructions were hugely helpful.

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  6. #81
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    Mar 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by goran View Post
    Thanks for the detailed description! I didn't hold out much hope that my current attempt would work, but sure enough I was able to really crank bindings down after the epoxy cured. I had used a very glass-heavy mixture, with fairly full holes, and I thought most of the screws were spinners when driving them in.

    I used a small hand plane to remove volcanoes previously, and the heels feel much tighter on the skis than they did with my last mount. I think in the future I'll be drilling with a 4.1mm bit and tapping irrespective of ski label, then installing with epoxy. I think that will reduce the likelihood of spinners and of volcano issues under the bindings.
    p[/URL]
    OK so you just rebuilt the threads in the binding holes of your skis ... another happy camper eh

    yeah so the reason you want that resin/fg mixture wetted out but mostly glass rich is that too much resin makes for weaker products and/or fixes

    I just use any old 5/32nd bit cuz this is not rocket science, I don't use a tap, I do drill thru a wine bottle cork to limit drill penetration instead of drilling thru the bases

    after drilling binding holes if I rotate a 3/8ths bit by hand to remove some chamfer from the hole I don't get volcano's,


    those screws are now glued to the holes so if you ever need to take them out use heat on the screw heads BEFORE you strip the heads
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    Quote Originally Posted by DropCliffsNotBombs View Post
    Why over think what is in reality a "field repair?" No ski shops are using steel wool, saw dust, or putty in their repairs.
    well they are shops so what they do every day to make money is use the ski fixing products they ordered before the season started and they wana make 75$ an hr

    whereas having Macgyvered all kinds of HW together for many yars, its probably a Thursday nite, I got a beverage(s) going, SO I look around the place at what I got that will work for 1 fix tonight

    IME I always got epoxy, FG, BBQ sqewers kicking around so i don't have to go out or buy anything and shit is ready to go for the weekend

    it has always held even on a tele mount
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    3,064
    Quote Originally Posted by goran View Post
    I used a small hand plane to remove volcanoes previously, and the heels feel much tighter on the skis than they did with my last mount. I think in the future I'll be drilling with a 4.1mm bit and tapping irrespective of ski label, then installing with epoxy. I think that will reduce the likelihood of spinners and of volcano issues under the bindings.
    Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app
    Either get an actual ski bit or do as XXX'r suggested w/ oversized bit hand spun to slightly countersink hole. The shoulder of a ski bit is designed to countersink that holeClick image for larger version. 

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    Hole should look like thisClick image for larger version. 

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  9. #84
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    130
    I don't have a picture on me, but my dedicated ski bit has a shoulder that is too flat to really countersink much. Also, the volcanos my first mount had were huge, (multiple millimeters for sure)- much more volume than the countersink would have removed. But maybe that was just the ski (Rossi black ops)?

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  10. #85
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    7B Selkirks USA
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    906
    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	159 
Size:	1.12 MB 
ID:	278173. Just putting this here to say this tool rocks. If plugging a hole with bamboo skewers or plugs and epoxy; This tool will flush cut to the topsheet as clean as a razor in seconds. I’m gonna get a cheap one at harbor freight.

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sun Valley, ID
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    2,527
    Quote Originally Posted by Kootenai View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	159 
Size:	1.12 MB 
ID:	278173. Just putting this here to say this tool rocks. If plugging a hole with bamboo skewers or plugs and epoxy; This tool will flush cut to the topsheet as clean as a razor in seconds. I’m gonna get a cheap one at harbor freight.
    What is it?

  12. #87
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    Sep 2009
    Location
    PNW -> MSO
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    7,889
    Oscillating tool. They are wonderful.

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
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    7B Selkirks USA
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    906
    Quote Originally Posted by CaliBrit View Post
    What is it?
    https://www.harborfreight.com/power-...ool-63111.html

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    between campus and church
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    9,925
    Fixing a stripped hole on my wife’s nordic skis now.

    Toothpicks cut in half and trim all tips off. Mix epoxy with picks, jam as many in the hole as you can. Take one last untrimmed pick, wipe it in epoxy and squeeze it in. Clean epoxy off top sheet. Let set 24 hours, trim to top sheet, redrill and mount.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	355864

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    and bob's yer uncle eh, macgyver lives on !
    Last edited by XXX-er; 01-01-2021 at 02:29 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  16. #91
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    134
    Quote Originally Posted by Peruvian View Post
    Fixing a stripped hole on my wife’s nordic skis now.

    Toothpicks cut in half and trim all tips off. Mix epoxy with picks, jam as many in the hole as you can. Take one last untrimmed pick, wipe it in epoxy and squeeze it in. Clean epoxy off top sheet. Let set 24 hours, trim to top sheet, redrill and mount.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	355864
    I did a hotel room repair once with the only things available. Toothpicks and nail polish. It held. I've used tooth picks ever since, but not the nail polish. too expensive.

  17. #92
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    I would have to fix something in deepest darkest interiour BC, many hrs from any parts, if it wasnt working when you left you gotta come back sooner than later to fix it , maybe a 6 hrs drive in horrendous conditions, so if I didnt have the part I would wander into a small town store looking for something that i could macgyver which could be safety pins/ crazy glue/paper clips/ 5min epoxy/ part of a kitchen gadget, the saw on my lockblade swiss army knife was an awesume tool for alterations to various things ... if you aint got it fake it til you make it
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  18. #93
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    home
    Posts
    1,691
    Quote Originally Posted by Peruvian View Post
    Fixing a stripped hole on my wife’s nordic skis now.

    Toothpicks cut in half and trim all tips off. Mix epoxy with picks, jam as many in the hole as you can. Take one last untrimmed pick, wipe it in epoxy and squeeze it in. Clean epoxy off top sheet. Let set 24 hours, trim to top sheet, redrill and mount.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Image1609531607.621670.jpg 
Views:	84 
Size:	1.17 MB 
ID:	355864
    This is awesome.
    Perfer et obdura, hic dolor olim utior tibi. -Ovid

  19. #94
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Wenatchee
    Posts
    14,610
    You know, a helicoil kit is pretty inexpensive and will last a lifetime.


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  20. #95
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,881
    Do you have one, can i borrow it ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  21. #96
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Wenatchee
    Posts
    14,610
    Yes. Sure if you want to come to Wenatchee.


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  22. #97
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    well its only a 20hrdrive

    but we can't get that shit up here in any kind of timely fashion let alone the shipping/ exchange/ duty so why not just use whats kicking around if it works just as well ?

    I gotta laugh at guys who are ordering/ couriering random bits of HW
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  23. #98
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,126
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    well its only a 20hrdrive

    but we can't get that shit up here in any kind of timely fashion let alone the shipping/ exchange/ duty so why not just use whats kicking around if it works just as well ?

    I gotta laugh at guys who are ordering/ couriering random bits of HW
    You don't have Amazon Prime in CA?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  24. #99
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    probably but I hate ordering shit on line and the border makes all kinds of thing you take for granted an expensive pain in the ass

    besides I already got what I need and it cost nothing
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  25. #100
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    134
    Quote Originally Posted by MagnificentUnicorn View Post
    You know, a helicoil kit is pretty inexpensive and will last a lifetime.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    why would you want to use a helicoil for this?

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