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Thread: OMG OMG! (Hurricane Bill)
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08-18-2009, 07:43 AM #1
OMG OMG! (Hurricane Bill)
The 3ft@14 seconds called for most of the Florida coast is going to be considerably under the actual swell which the more refined Hurricane models are calling in the 6ft@16 seconds region. A call that, if realised, is pushing double overhead conditions on most exposed beaches.
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08-18-2009, 03:10 PM #2
This is the forecast for Nantucket, and the chart is completely topped out like ^^^^^^ at the top.
Sunday
Surf: 3 to 4 times overhead high SSE long period swell.
Conditions: Clean with N winds 15-20kt in the morning shifting NNW 10-15kt in the afternoon.
whole east coast is gonna get waves, tie ur trunks up realllll tight this weekend. PM me if you are surfing in New Hampshire or Maine this weekend, Yeti?
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08-18-2009, 09:28 PM #3
It does look like you bastards are gonna get some. That system is huge by 'cainne standards... more fetch, more waves. 6@16 sure would top double over head, but I'd look further than the magic seaweed for answers.
Timber Island. South side. Mid Tide. If ya get anything like a 6@16 beyond the cape. That place breaks like any solid left coast break.
btw. can most of the FL beach breaks handle that kind of size? I'd imagine you'd need some reef or a pass with all that sand.
Oh, and there a few spots out on Block Is that should go off. And Green Point. Prrrr. Even Ruggles, if you like the crowd on big boards.
Good luck and enjoy gentlemen.
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08-19-2009, 05:46 AM #4
Looks like this swell will be the first test of my shoulder. Stoked but very nervous...I could have used one more month to get ready!
"A local is just a dirtbag who can't get his shit together enough to travel."
- Owl Chapman
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08-19-2009, 05:58 AM #5
Supposedly New Smyrna has like 8 sandbars or something. I've seen pics of clean double-overhead waves there.
There are a couple rocky old reefs that form point breaks just below the bahamas shadow. We're going to check those out on our way north to Fort Pierce. I'm guessing the swell will hit them fine. May be a little smaller but I'd rather hit a clean head-high wave than get crushed on giant closeouts. Shit, we see surf so rarely down here head-high is a little scary
J-
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08-19-2009, 08:17 AM #6
Looking like Sunday will go from SE to SSE up here, chest to 2x by lunchtime.
Pete, can you get your local town fathers to waive the no-surfing/parking-ban? If not, I'll be testing the waters at a series of beaches to your north.
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08-19-2009, 09:33 AM #7"A local is just a dirtbag who can't get his shit together enough to travel."
- Owl Chapman
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08-19-2009, 07:09 PM #8
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08-19-2009, 08:23 PM #9
By the jetty at the inlet at New Smyrna often gets double overhead in the spring. Right now I wish I still lived there. It'll be going off this week.
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08-20-2009, 08:26 AM #10
BIG BAD Billy
my boys on the cape are planning a tow in session.
Maybe get the Yamaha jet boat out there for extra support.
Bring it ON Billy !Bacon tastes good. Pork chops taste goood.
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08-20-2009, 09:07 AM #11
Photo documentation of weekend's events please.
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08-20-2009, 10:01 AM #12Putting the "core" in corporate, one turn at a time.
Metalmücil 2010 - 2013 "Go Home" album is now a free download
The Bonin Petrels
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08-20-2009, 10:32 AM #13
p slovo - do you ever surf Timber Island? The south side should get solid if this swell shows as expected. It is in your neighborhood. Some one needs to get it. Thumping wrap lefts. Not Leftys - but the outside.
I only got it once in many many years trying. This could be an opportunity.
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08-20-2009, 02:05 PM #14sugarloafer
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hoping to surf Kennebunk beach on my new shortboard if its not too too huge...anyone else gonna be in the Southern Maine area?
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08-20-2009, 04:45 PM #15
^^^^^ I wish.
Kbunk, IMHO, gets kind of washed out from the souths; especially bigger ones. Ogunquit should hold up nice - and still break through mid tides. In fact, the entire line up sometimes shifts to a mid tide on the inside bar during big swell events.
Around the corner from Gouches (sp?) there are a few reefs that hold well with a bigger south. And there is always Parson's Point, just off the river mouth.
But I am telling you. Timber Island. Go get after it. It has pucker factor.
If you are looking for more controlled surf, there are a few cobble stone reefs on Drake's south end that work on a big swell. Due to its location, the swell tends to be more tame. Of course it has been a decade since I surfed them and cobble stone does tend to move.
fuck, fuck, fuck, I wish I was there. Always miss the true 'caine surf when it comes to southern Maine.
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08-20-2009, 09:24 PM #16sugarloafer
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- Jul 2009
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Yeah and Goochs tends to get really really crowded whenever there is the slightest swell. Definitely gonna check out Timber island...its only like a mile from my house
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08-21-2009, 10:28 AM #17
fkna!
This looks to be a memorable swell.
Swell angle looks to be from the SE for Saturday. Expect long waits between sets and probably a few closeouts. We haven't had big surf for a long time so there is no telling on what the sand bars are doing. Swell angle looks to turn from the East then NE late Sunday and into Monday. Swell should last into Tuesday but the size looks to drop off.
Also, for those thinking of traveling to Playalinda this weekend, don't. Shuttle Launch on Monday has the Canaveral National Seashore closing on Friday evening and for the weekend.
The whole Eastern Seaboard, minus South Florida, should see big surf for the weekend. Play it safe. If its too big, seek a smaller spot.
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08-21-2009, 01:10 PM #18
Why they gotta hate on South Florida.
Heading to Fort Pierce in an hour, likely to surf with 1000 of my closest friends. Tomorrow I think we're going to hunt in the edge of the bahamas shadow for some structure.
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08-21-2009, 02:27 PM #19
There's a lot of sentences that you could end with " minus south Florida" with surfing it just happens to be true.
New Smyrna is only 2 hours north of Ft Pierce. You can still drive on the beach old school style. It has a tendency to keep away the beaters because of that " Shark attack capital of the world" hype.
Plan B) Drive to New Smyrna....drive down the beach to pick your break...surf consistent overhead to double overhead...rinse and repeat.
I'd be there this weekend if I wasn't getting on a plane.
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08-21-2009, 06:08 PM #20
as a non-surfer it looks like pretty good breaks at Balston Beach in Truro (end of Cape Cod) as the remnants of bill pass by.....
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08-21-2009, 07:13 PM #21
Yeah, I know South Florida sucks. I'm not going to stick up for the place, save the fishing north of Jupiter and how pretty and awesome the water can be in winter.
Fort Pierce was a letdown. Weak waist-high with a billion people on it. Literally 4 on every wave. I went out and caught a couple bodysurfing with my 3-year-old daughter hanging onto my back. Extreme.
New Smyrna was fast and furious today. Heard the inlet was good but everywhere else was zipping along at near-closeout pace.
We'll see how it is in the morning, and will drive until we find something shralpable. If the swell comes in as forecast it could be just a couple miles away to a reef just inside the Bahamas Shadow.
Woop!
J-
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08-21-2009, 07:59 PM #22
Too much sand. It will be much better on the reefs in RI. If the below comes to pass, you will need a deep water reef set up for sure.
from Stormsurf
Cold front projected to be right on top of the region with Hurricane Bill sneaking just E of New England. Close proximity of Bill should result in N or NW winds for most of the region creating clean conditions. SE swell currently looks to peak around 16ft at 17s, but I would expect some slightly higher buoy readings due to Bills increased forward speed heading N. Surf will likely be unmanageable at most breaks.Last edited by Ottime; 08-22-2009 at 12:20 AM.
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08-22-2009, 01:42 AM #23
its the only beach i've ever been stalked by a shark.
i prefer patrick air force base (south cocoa beach) to satellite beach area. coquina rock "reefs" make for great breaking waves. NSB is a hell paddle if you're surfing big swells and aren't right at the inlet. you're likely to end up a mile or two down the beach from where you started.
of course, sebastien inlet and reef road will be the go-to spots and be mobbed out but well worth checking out at least once during a monster swell.
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08-22-2009, 01:36 PM #24
4.4@16 on the spectral with a 4.3@14/4.1@13 component. And a 1.3@20.
Long Island buoy. around 3:30 EC time.
Those are some solid readings, especially paired with the fact that below 12.5sec (wind swell and chop), the wave heights drop way off. That is a solid clean swell.
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08-22-2009, 02:46 PM #25
About chest high, with slightly bigger sets, in ME this am. A bit jumbled due to the slight onshore wind. My session went pretty well for first time in larger than knee high since March.
Building through the day (up to 5.2 @14 currently), and supposed to be relatively large tomorrow as the storm passes, with very good winds. I can hear the surf pounding from my house, about 1.5 miles from the beach
I will be fishing with my pops tomorrow instead of being tempted by surf of the size that I shouldn't be paddling into at this point of my recovery. But it should get good!"A local is just a dirtbag who can't get his shit together enough to travel."
- Owl Chapman
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