Binding Mount Paper Templates

[swerve]

Just used the FKS and it worked perfectly

[paulster2626]

Bump for Jester template.

Damn straight. I've got a pair of Schizos that need to be slapped on. Hoping it's the same pattern.

[pault]

I just used the Solly paper template. Double checked it on a 2x4 before I mounted them on skis. Worked perfectly.

This website is the best ski resource in the entire world. Thank you

[imadoofus]

A few tips I learned from my first few mounts. useful for anyone new to this whole thing.

- I used a 3.6 bit with a rubber stop on it. I just bought a thick rubber washer, drilled through it and had the tip extend out to 9mm. one thing I found with the first few mounts is that, it is easy to cause the rubber to slide up the bit slightly with each drill. So I put glue inside the rubber to keep it firm. I also marked the other side of the drill bit immediately after the washer with a thin line and make sure before every drill that the line is visible to make sure the rubber stop hadnt ridden up. This should work well with a corkscrew from a winebottle like suggested in this thread as well.
[ame="http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168454"]Shop mags: How to mount skis at home? - Teton Gravity Research Forums[/ame]

I still plan invest in and recommend a ski specific drill bit from tognar if you are new to this.
Is there a specific collar that I can buy that will do this? Home depot didnt seem to know much about a collar for the drill bit.

- Invest in and use a center punch. makes the job a lot more easier. Do not use makeshift punches like nails or screws. I tried and the investment in an actual punch is well worth it


- Really glad to have gotten the practice mount on a 2x4 advice. My mounts got better everytime. Do not try this for the first time on your brand new sticks

Thanks jondrums et all for the great vid!

[imadoofus]

When you measure the center of the ski width, how do you make sure you are measuring perpendicular to the ski? I saw in jondrums vid that he was using just a ruler. I understand the square(?) and calipers are better (The L shaped ruler. I dont know what it is called). Any other tips? What do you guys rely on?

[jondrums]

re: drill collar <$3
McMaster Carr part number: 8865A143
www.mcmaster.com

re: measuring the ski center - I've discovered hands down the best way to do this, but its kind of hard to describe.

take a scrap of paper, and place it perpendicular to the ski on the topsheet and "mold" it around the ski, creasing it on each steel edge of the ski. Then take the paper off, and fold it in half to find the exact center between the two edges of the ski. put it back on matching up the original creases to the edges, and mark the center fold on the ski.

I should have demonstrated this in the video, but I forgot because sidewall skis are easy enough to just measure with a ruler and mark the center.

[imadoofus]

http://www.protravelgear.com/latitud...ing-Buddy.html

Good price for a combo tool. Has the #3 pozi drive as well.

[davieboot]

Just used the FKS and it worked perfectly

Me too, dead on perfect.

[tsproul]

Bump for Jester template.

I can't believe no one has a paper template from the 07/08 Jesters or Griffons......

I got tired of waiting so I mounted mine up on some plywood. And after some trial and error to get the BSL measurements....

Front bindings is a rectangular pattern and distances are center to center.

35 mm across the width.

30 mm front to back.

From the back holes of the front binding, 130mm to get to 285 BSL mark.

Back bindings are a rectangular pattern

32 mm across the width

80 mm front to back

I have 120 mm from the front holes of the back binding to the 285 BSL mark.

This 120 mm distance has a lot of slop available, me thinks as the screw track is lot longer than needed. These measurements get me so I can just see maybe 3-5 mm of the metal on the rear track once a boot is in place. Also take note that if you mount your bindings and lock in your boot, you need to adjust forward pressure before comparing your boot center mark and the ski center mark......too little forward pressure makes you think you mounted too far backward.

[jondrums]

^^ killer! I'll make the template very soon, and we'll check it. I'm trying to make the templates so that the heelpiece is in the center of the adjustment track for the desired BSL. Where is the heelpiece on your mount, and how much travel does the heelpiece have?

[midwest_skier]

Thanks!!!!

[Wes Mantooth]

re: drill collar <$3
McMaster Carr part number: 8865A143
www.mcmaster.com

re: measuring the ski center - I've discovered hands down the best way to do this, but its kind of hard to describe.

take a scrap of paper, and place it perpendicular to the ski on the topsheet and "mold" it around the ski, creasing it on each steel edge of the ski. Then take the paper off, and fold it in half to find the exact center between the two edges of the ski. put it back on matching up the original creases to the edges, and mark the center fold on the ski.

I should have demonstrated this in the video, but I forgot because sidewall skis are easy enough to just measure with a ruler and mark the center.

Sounds pretty smart to me

I'm still using the triangulation method to find 2 points and connect them but I've found there's a bit of a margin for error here, it's hard to be perfectly exact with how the square lines up with your sidewalls, especially tapered vertical sidewalls

[tsproul]

Where is the heelpiece on your mount, and how much travel does the heelpiece have?

Amount of travel? I have no idea.

Here is how I came to my mount position.

1. If I had to design things.....I'd try and make key measurements easy peasy. So the 120 mm and 130 mm make a lot of sense to me. From a non-engineer perspective.

2. Where is the actual threading in the track and where is the screw? At the BSL mark, you figure the screw should be in the middle of the threading to give it the most strength and adjustability.

That's what I aimed for.

Here is a picture of the track. Note that the midpoint of the threading is about at the midpoint between the molded notches in the track.



Here is a picture of the screw in the binding. Note that the midpoint of the screw is about the midpoint of the gold spurs that are just adjacent to that part of the binding. The gold spurs - for lack of my engineering vocabulary - are the female counterpart to the white track.



When the boot is mounted and forward pressure adjusted so the forward pressure screw head is flush to the housing.....the midpoints of the screw and threading about line up.



Hope these pictures help. If you need more, shoot me an email. my user name at sbcglobal.net. We're both in the bay area so it might be easier to just meet, depending on commutes and such.

Tim

[jondrums]

^^ that is exactly what I was asking, and it sounds like your numbers should be spot on for the best heel mounting position.

edited to add: Don't be "easy peasy" with these measurements - I need you to be exact as possible because lots of people will be using this. Please take a moment to revise that post with the EXACT number from rear set of front holes to mount line, and front set of rear holes to mount line. Remember they are very unlikely to be whole numbers, since its entirely dependent on the BSL. They might be whole numbers for one BSL, but chances are its not yours.

[tsproul]

[QUOTE=jondrums;2634398edited to add: Don't be "easy peasy" with these measurements - I need you to be exact as possible because lots of people will be using this. [/QUOTE]

Those numbers (120mm and 130mm) are spot on. I use calipers and when I build furniture, regularly work to 0.1mm precision/accuracy or better.

As always, I expect some others to use the paper template on some wood and confirm or unconfirm the template before widespread use on skis.

[jondrums]

someone double check the Jester/Griffon template!
Thanks to tsproul for stepping up and measuring the jester pattern!

[RaccoonFace]

re: drill collar <$3
McMaster Carr part number: 8865A143
www.mcmaster.com

re: measuring the ski center - I've discovered hands down the best way to do this, but its kind of hard to describe.

take a scrap of paper, and place it perpendicular to the ski on the topsheet and "mold" it around the ski, creasing it on each steel edge of the ski. Then take the paper off, and fold it in half to find the exact center between the two edges of the ski. put it back on matching up the original creases to the edges, and mark the center fold on the ski.

I should have demonstrated this in the video, but I forgot because sidewall skis are easy enough to just measure with a ruler and mark the center.

^^^The problem for me is confirming that the paper is exactly perpendicular. There is also another really simple way to do it.

You will need: String (~6" will do fine, but longer is better), 1 pin or thumb tack, pen/pencil, one long straight edge.

1) At end of string tie pin, at other end tie pen
2) Put pin on boot centre line on ski near one edge(no need to press into the ski, but make sure it stays there)
3) Make an arc where the string will allow in front of the centre line, and one arc behind the centre line
4) Repeat step 3 with pin on opposite edge of the boot centre line
5) Where the arcs cross should be the centre of the ski (remeasure to be certain). Take straight edge and draw a line from the crossed arcs in front to the crossed arcs in back. This will give you a straight line that is in the middle of the ski without eyeballing

[/life changing contribution]

okbye

[Roxtar]

Has anyone gotten measurements for the FK Geze toe?

If not, I show the front hole 64mm from the two rears that are 35mm apart.
I believe those two rear (35mm apart) holes should be mounted in the same place as the newer style rear toe holes.

IOW, using Jondrum's FKS Toe template, you just eliminate the two front holes and put one centered hole 64mm from the two remaining rears.

[jondrums]

^^ I'll update the FKS soon with the extra hole.

[Ed el Loco]

I was digging around my desk to day and found some paper jigs I printed on vinyl adhesive paper. I have used them for making plexiglass templates for mounting, or you can just stick them to a ski and use them once. I got the files from this thread.
[ame="http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97193"]ATTN: Dynafit Users - Paper Jig! - Teton Gravity Research Forums[/ame]

you can see pictures on page 2 @ post #35
[ame="http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2016428&postcount=35"]Teton Gravity Research Forums - View Single Post - ATTN: Dynafit Users - Paper Jig![/ame]

The vinyl shrinks the jig about 1mm over all, the bsl is 1mm short, but for solly it dont matter and from what I hear Dynafit either.
I have:
Salomon 315 & 325 x 3 each
Dynafit 296, 306, 310, and 2 @ 315.
If any one want them PM me your address and I will mail it out to you some time over the next week.

[jondrums]

somebody please verify the FKS geze toe pattern (not just that it matches the toepiece, but also that the BSL is spot on)

(the standard FKS toe pattern hasn't changed)

[RaccoonFace]

^^^ And, thank you for drawing all this stuff! This is money!

okbye

[strawjack]

After fiddling with paper templates every-time I mount bindings, I decided to make paper templates for all the popular bindings that can be printed on 8.5"x11" paper and can be used for all BSL's. Note the revision number appended to the end of the filename (_R1 ect). If you have saved an old revision, please delete it!

Attachment 65753 Verified (Teh Poacher), has 5th hole
Attachment 69142 Verified (swerve) (geze toe from roxtar untested)
Attachment 65867 Verified (johnny sizzler)
Attachment 65868 (cosmicsuncloud)
Attachment 68307 untested
Attachment 69005 untested (measurements: tsproul)
Attachment 57448 Verified (hick)
Attachment 57904 Verified (jondrums)
Attachment 57905 Verified (jondrums)


Please post to the thread when you use any of these, so that people know that particular template has been used and worked.

A new note: Double Check your Print Scaling! not all printers print at the right size, so use a ruler and make sure that printed ruler on paper matches the real ruler. If not, adjust the size percentage on your print settings and print again!

*Use at your own risk - Always double check your holes before drilling!


UPDATE: Tutorial pics and vids now in post #77

i just used the PX racing jig on the px14 (w/ dynastar branding) that have been on tramdock lately. it worked perfectly. thanks.

marking the center line via string worked well, but there is a lot of margin for error if you don't hold the pen plumb. always double check w/ measurements.

for those w/ mantras - i mounted last yrs 191's (made in germany) and the boot center mark ended up being pretty much dead nuts with bf-on-crs.

Edit - one issue i overlooked originally with the template. the heel template set at the 320mm is about a cm forward. i had enough play to draw it back, but i am close to that little "ok" window they have stamped on the binder. in other words, if your boot sole is 320, you may want to set the template to 330 for the rear binder.

[arild]

I just mounted my Squads with Rossi WC200 binders, using the px_racing template. Like Strawjack, I can confirm that the template is accurate.

[jeffamantea]

Tyrolia!!

I have measurements, but my calipers arent digi...