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Thread: Binding Mount Paper Templates
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11-18-2010, 08:50 PM #276
^^^ did hoarhey put you up to this? he's been bugging me about this for ages I'll get to it...
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11-18-2010, 08:55 PM #277
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11-22-2010, 11:47 AM #278Registered User
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Ha ha the idea did come from your post, mounting my dukes tomorrow for some Squaw Thanksgiving action.
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11-22-2010, 11:57 AM #279
cool!
Jon, fyi, sergio's guide book is in the mail as of today.Aggressive in my own mind
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11-24-2010, 01:30 AM #280
Finally gave this a shot today. Mounted PX12's on a pair of my dads skis and mounted a pair of Look Pivot/Axial bindings on a pair of park skis for myself. The paper jigs worked great. My mount actually seems to be straighter than the shop mount htat was on the ski before. Thanks for the info and the jigs!
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11-24-2010, 06:57 AM #281
Wanted to post a thanks to jondrums for putting this together. Just mounted two pairs of Solly 997s with the template that came out great.
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11-27-2010, 03:35 PM #282Not in Wyoming any more
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Mounted a set of small Fritschi Freerides to a 279mm bsl last night using the paper template provided here. Everything worked great. Thanks for the kick ass resource jondrums!
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11-27-2010, 08:06 PM #283
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11-27-2010, 10:52 PM #284
900s, 957, 977, 957, 912, 914, 916, 920, STH12, STH14, STH16, Z-series, Quadrax, and any other binding made by salomon to date
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11-27-2010, 11:25 PM #285
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11-28-2010, 03:43 PM #286Registered User
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Stuck a pair of dukes on my RC112's, worked a treat. Props to Jondrums. Would have been easier if the template was on one 11x17 though ha ha.
An idea I had while doing this. Remember in the old world of overhead projectors you could get the clear plastic sheets that you could print onto with an inkjet printer? Seems like this would be a good easy solution to aid in easier alignment, particularly with the template on 2 pages etc.
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11-28-2010, 04:55 PM #287I see you
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11-28-2010, 04:59 PM #288
I use an old fashioned hole punch (remember those?) to punch a hole in each of the templates right where the BSL intersects the centerline so that I can see through and line everything up. I also cut off the excess paper on the ends, so I can match up the center line to the end of the template too.
With these techniques, I don't think that a clear overhead projector print is necessary.
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11-28-2010, 09:30 PM #289I see you
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Good advice, and is per your instructions. I follow these exact steps with success, but I feel like the transparency would give me more peace of mind.
Ah heck, that transparency stuff is just extra $$$, which is what I'm trying to save here! Back to the old method... coughformyinsertscough
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11-29-2010, 02:35 PM #290Registered User
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Well I just ordered 50 8x11 sheets for $18! For laser printer, not inkjet or copier.
Worth an experiment.
If any SF Bay Area folks want a couple of sheets on me, then shoot me a PM, I live right in SF you can come grab a couple.
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11-29-2010, 03:29 PM #291Registered User
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I forget where I seen it but there were templates to down load from A site and on the template was a circle the size of a quarter SO if you down loaded the template take a quatrer out of your pocket and if a quarter fits in the round circle on the template the template did not shrink or grow in the downlaod /print process ... good idea I thot
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11-29-2010, 03:49 PM #292Registered User
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11-29-2010, 03:59 PM #293
kinko's makes the transparence copies.... it was like $1.20 for 4 sheets or 2/2page templates
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11-29-2010, 04:10 PM #294Registered User
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Yeah it is just one more scailing/accuracy step.
Direct print sits better in my mind.
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12-01-2010, 11:07 PM #295
^^ I carefully checked the numbers with Lou's template, so I am 99% sure that the Fritschi template is spot on. Can you shed more light on where you think the difference is?
Also, I'm actually not sure which models the template works with. I have a pair of Fritschi bindings that this template works with, but can you help me determine which models this is compatible with?
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12-02-2010, 04:47 PM #296
Although the issue's solved, I checked your template with the one I did some while ago (see: [ame="http://www.freeskiers.net/community/showthread.php?t=2157"]|ANLEITUNG| - Bindung in Heimarbeit montieren - freeskiers.net - Community[/ame] -third post contains links to binding templates) and they're spot on overlapping regading the screw holes and distance between toe and heel mounting. On the midsole scale there's a few mm offset, but that's irrellevant.
BTW I linked some of the templates you did there. Let me know if that's improper.
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12-03-2010, 01:36 AM #297
knut- no problem linking them of course - they're posted in a public forum.
I had to create the mid-sole lines by carefully measuring using a pair of "FR" bindings. Where did you get the midsole line position? If someone has a official jig - I'd like feedback on the position of the midsole lline.
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12-03-2010, 07:33 AM #298
I measured the midsole position also from a FR size M based on toe piece contact point with the boot sole checked with my boot inserted. Counter-checked by measuring full sole length with heel piece in foremost and sternmost position.
Depending on form and wear of the boot sole and evaluated contact points, I think there's easily room for variation. I think, that's always the tricky part on any kind of paper jig based on measuring a binding. Toe and heel edge contact point are rarely a well definded line.
But it seems that both templates differ by less than 2mm. I feel that this variation in midsole positioning is neglectable.
I anyway use a slightly different mounting method comparable to what one'd do with a metal jig. I place the boot on the ski aligning midsole of boot and ski and then use the toe and heel edge line on the paper template to align it. Excludes errors by the rarely occuring non-centered midsole mark on some boots.
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12-03-2010, 12:25 PM #299
Another successful mount last night. Thanks again Jon, this is an awesome resource. You kick ass.
"Nothing like a very, very amorous woman in a leg imobilizer who dozes off every 3 1/2 minutes."
-Notchtop
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12-06-2010, 02:02 AM #300
i had a problem mounting my fks 155.
the heel piece holes lined up perfect, but the toe piece hole where slightly to close together causing the screws to bind up before i could get the plate completely flush with the ski.
i removed the screws and opened the holes up slightly with the drill but now i need new screws because they are slightly stripped.
is it safe to just screw them back in with a good amount of epoxy in the hole? or do i need to heli-coil now?
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