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  1. #276
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    Nov 2007
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    ^^^ did hoarhey put you up to this? he's been bugging me about this for ages I'll get to it...

  2. #277
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Vallee Teton
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    2,599
    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    ^^^ did hoarhey put you up to this? he's been bugging me about this for ages I'll get to it...
    I knew this was coming!

    Calibrit, I don't know you, but I owe you a beer if our paths should ever cross :-)
    Aggressive in my own mind

  3. #278
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sun Valley, ID
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    2,546
    Ha ha the idea did come from your post, mounting my dukes tomorrow for some Squaw Thanksgiving action.

  4. #279
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    Nov 2003
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    Vallee Teton
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    2,599
    cool!
    Jon, fyi, sergio's guide book is in the mail as of today.
    Aggressive in my own mind

  5. #280
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    1,016
    Finally gave this a shot today. Mounted PX12's on a pair of my dads skis and mounted a pair of Look Pivot/Axial bindings on a pair of park skis for myself. The paper jigs worked great. My mount actually seems to be straighter than the shop mount htat was on the ski before. Thanks for the info and the jigs!

  6. #281
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Denver-ish
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    963
    Wanted to post a thanks to jondrums for putting this together. Just mounted two pairs of Solly 997s with the template that came out great.

  7. #282
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    AK
    Posts
    329
    Mounted a set of small Fritschi Freerides to a 279mm bsl last night using the paper template provided here. Everything worked great. Thanks for the kick ass resource jondrums!

  8. #283
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Droppin' in ten!
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    1,118
    Might have already been asked but does the Salomon template work with the STH 16 bindings?

    If not, what bindings does it work for?
    Quote Originally Posted by splat View Post
    It's the same argument for prostitution. There's a lot of people in this world who won't be getting laid unless they pay big bucks or fuck an artificial life form. No amount of consolation, pity or comiserating is going to change that reality.
    Slaughter is the best medicine.

  9. #284
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    Nov 2007
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    900s, 957, 977, 957, 912, 914, 916, 920, STH12, STH14, STH16, Z-series, Quadrax, and any other binding made by salomon to date

  10. #285
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    Nov 2008
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    Droppin' in ten!
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    1,118
    That was the answer I was hoping for...

    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    900s, 957, 977, 957, 912, 914, 916, 920, STH12, STH14, STH16, Z-series, Quadrax, and any other binding made by salomon to date
    Quote Originally Posted by splat View Post
    It's the same argument for prostitution. There's a lot of people in this world who won't be getting laid unless they pay big bucks or fuck an artificial life form. No amount of consolation, pity or comiserating is going to change that reality.
    Slaughter is the best medicine.

  11. #286
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sun Valley, ID
    Posts
    2,546
    Stuck a pair of dukes on my RC112's, worked a treat. Props to Jondrums. Would have been easier if the template was on one 11x17 though ha ha.

    An idea I had while doing this. Remember in the old world of overhead projectors you could get the clear plastic sheets that you could print onto with an inkjet printer? Seems like this would be a good easy solution to aid in easier alignment, particularly with the template on 2 pages etc.

  12. #287
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by CaliBrit View Post
    An idea I had while doing this. Remember in the old world of overhead projectors you could get the clear plastic sheets that you could print onto with an inkjet printer? Seems like this would be a good easy solution to aid in easier alignment, particularly with the template on 2 pages etc.
    WOWOWOW! Great Idea! I know what I'm trying for my next mounttttt

  13. #288
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    Nov 2007
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    sfbay
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    I use an old fashioned hole punch (remember those?) to punch a hole in each of the templates right where the BSL intersects the centerline so that I can see through and line everything up. I also cut off the excess paper on the ends, so I can match up the center line to the end of the template too.

    With these techniques, I don't think that a clear overhead projector print is necessary.

  14. #289
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    I use an old fashioned hole punch (remember those?) to punch a hole in each of the templates right where the BSL intersects the centerline so that I can see through and line everything up. I also cut off the excess paper on the ends, so I can match up the center line to the end of the template too.

    With these techniques, I don't think that a clear overhead projector print is necessary.
    Good advice, and is per your instructions. I follow these exact steps with success, but I feel like the transparency would give me more peace of mind.

    Ah heck, that transparency stuff is just extra $$$, which is what I'm trying to save here! Back to the old method... coughformyinsertscough

  15. #290
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sun Valley, ID
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    2,546
    Well I just ordered 50 8x11 sheets for $18! For laser printer, not inkjet or copier.

    Worth an experiment.

    If any SF Bay Area folks want a couple of sheets on me, then shoot me a PM, I live right in SF you can come grab a couple.

  16. #291
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,040
    I forget where I seen it but there were templates to down load from A site and on the template was a circle the size of a quarter SO if you down loaded the template take a quatrer out of your pocket and if a quarter fits in the round circle on the template the template did not shrink or grow in the downlaod /print process ... good idea I thot

  17. #292
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sun Valley, ID
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    2,546
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I forget where I seen it but there were templates to down load from A site and on the template was a circle the size of a quarter SO if you down loaded the template take a quatrer out of your pocket and if a quarter fits in the round circle on the template the template did not shrink or grow in the downlaod /print process ... good idea I thot
    jondrums template has a scale on it you can just measure. Foolproof, well nearly!

  18. #293
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    242
    kinko's makes the transparence copies.... it was like $1.20 for 4 sheets or 2/2page templates

  19. #294
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    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sun Valley, ID
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    Yeah it is just one more scailing/accuracy step.

    Direct print sits better in my mind.

  20. #295
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    Nov 2007
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    ^^ I carefully checked the numbers with Lou's template, so I am 99% sure that the Fritschi template is spot on. Can you shed more light on where you think the difference is?

    Also, I'm actually not sure which models the template works with. I have a pair of Fritschi bindings that this template works with, but can you help me determine which models this is compatible with?

  21. #296
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    302
    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    ^^ I carefully checked the numbers with Lou's template, so I am 99% sure that the Fritschi template is spot on. Can you shed more light on where you think the difference is?
    Although the issue's solved, I checked your template with the one I did some while ago (see: [ame="http://www.freeskiers.net/community/showthread.php?t=2157"]|ANLEITUNG| - Bindung in Heimarbeit montieren - freeskiers.net - Community[/ame] -third post contains links to binding templates) and they're spot on overlapping regading the screw holes and distance between toe and heel mounting. On the midsole scale there's a few mm offset, but that's irrellevant.

    BTW I linked some of the templates you did there. Let me know if that's improper.

  22. #297
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    Nov 2007
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    knut- no problem linking them of course - they're posted in a public forum.

    I had to create the mid-sole lines by carefully measuring using a pair of "FR" bindings. Where did you get the midsole line position? If someone has a official jig - I'd like feedback on the position of the midsole lline.

  23. #298
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    302
    I measured the midsole position also from a FR size M based on toe piece contact point with the boot sole checked with my boot inserted. Counter-checked by measuring full sole length with heel piece in foremost and sternmost position.
    Depending on form and wear of the boot sole and evaluated contact points, I think there's easily room for variation. I think, that's always the tricky part on any kind of paper jig based on measuring a binding. Toe and heel edge contact point are rarely a well definded line.
    But it seems that both templates differ by less than 2mm. I feel that this variation in midsole positioning is neglectable.

    I anyway use a slightly different mounting method comparable to what one'd do with a metal jig. I place the boot on the ski aligning midsole of boot and ski and then use the toe and heel edge line on the paper template to align it. Excludes errors by the rarely occuring non-centered midsole mark on some boots.

  24. #299
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    SE AK
    Posts
    327
    Another successful mount last night. Thanks again Jon, this is an awesome resource. You kick ass.
    "Nothing like a very, very amorous woman in a leg imobilizer who dozes off every 3 1/2 minutes."
    -Notchtop

  25. #300
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    905
    i had a problem mounting my fks 155.

    the heel piece holes lined up perfect, but the toe piece hole where slightly to close together causing the screws to bind up before i could get the plate completely flush with the ski.

    i removed the screws and opened the holes up slightly with the drill but now i need new screws because they are slightly stripped.

    is it safe to just screw them back in with a good amount of epoxy in the hole? or do i need to heli-coil now?

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