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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    ^^^ did you try both the pivot/axialai and the axial jigs?
    I don't have a jig, only going off paper templates posted here.

    I took a closer looker today. The toe piece lines up fine for either template.

    RE: PX 15 racing
    The heel piece screws do not match up on either template. If you take the Look PX / Axial 2 heel template, and move the rear most screw centre 8.2 cm forward, it should work. I'm not sure if or how this would affect the boot centre measurements. I can't add onto the template due to it being read only on my cp, but with a bit of simple measuring and marking it's a piece of cake to add onto the printed template by hand.

    Unfortunately I don't have time to mount up a test before I head to work, but I will do that when I get home in 3 weeks and confirm.

    *disclaimer, if you use this measurement and fuck it, too bad for you as I have not verified it yet, and I am totally jacked up on caffiene while I was measuring it.
    Last edited by time2clmb; 10-16-2009 at 02:57 PM. Reason: adding text

  2. #77
    Join Date
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    Tutorial vids:

    These videos show how to mount dynaduke plates to the ski, but it'll be much the same process for any kind of binding.



    Tutorial pics:

    Download and print out the templates and check the print scaling with a ruler. It should match up perfectly, or else you'll need to try printing again and try changing the print scaling % in the print dialog.
    Attachment 66324
    I like to use a hole punch, to make a hole in the template right around the BSL scale that corresponds to my boot. Here, I have taped the heel template on for a BSL of 322.
    Attachment 66325
    Now both templates carefully taped in place. Double check that they are on perfectly straight, and that both BSL markers line up with your mount point on the ski.
    Attachment 66326
    Use a center punch, or any sharp object like an ice-pick, to create a divot where each hole should be drilled. Don't be timid, the divot helps center the drill for a perfect mount.
    Attachment 66327
    Drill using a 3.6mm bit for wood core skis or a 4.1mm bit for skis with a metal layer. Double check the manufacturers recommendation if you're not sure. I use a regular drill bit with a collar attached exactly at 9mm depth.
    Attachment 66328
    Deburr the holes by hand with a countersink bit, then mount your bindings however you prefer. I like to use some general purpose epoxy on the mounting screws, others like wood glue, and even a few like it dry...
    Attachment 66329

    more info [ame="https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2149503"]here[/ame]
    Last edited by jondrums; 11-11-2009 at 11:50 PM.

  3. #78
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    Does anyone have the jester/griffon template

  4. #79
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    if anyone has a jester template or jig and is willing to send it to me, I'll make the .pdf templates from it. PM me! I'll send it back as quick as possible.

  5. #80
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    Sep 2007
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    Las Cruces, NM
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    Cant find one for the sth12 ????
    The salomons I have tried on here don't match up.
    It would have the 3 screw toe.

    Thanks for the tutorial Jondrums..I know it is for people like I is.
    Last edited by LeeC; 10-22-2009 at 10:44 PM.

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    290
    Try that one: http://www.freeskiers.net/community/...6&d=1227542234

    On freeskiers.net (in ugly german of course) you can find some more: [ame="http://www.freeskiers.net/community/showthread.php?t=2157"]|ANLEITUNG| - Bindung in Heimarbeit montieren - freeskiers.net - Community[/ame]

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Seattle, WA
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    264
    Ok, for some odd reason, my LOOK Pivot TT09's (14 Din) won't fit any jig. The heel piece screws are closer together than that on any of the LOOK/Rossi P or PX jigs. Should I get some measurements of the heel for the thread? (the bindings are apparently OLDOLDOLD! haha)

    I'm gonna try premounting these an a block of wood to make sure I can get it right. But I was just curious if anyone had any info regarding the TT09's for me.

    Thanks and awesome thread. The jigs fit the PX's and FKS perfectly! shweet
    Last edited by GHSTRCN; 10-28-2009 at 09:07 PM. Reason: Heel doesn't fit, toe does...

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by GHSTRCN
    Ok, for some odd reason, my LOOK Pivot TT09's (14 Din) won't fit any jig.
    Check the FKS heel template.

  9. #84
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    Ah! I'm a retard! Makes sense! Thank you mortimer.

    I was comparing the wrong parts each time I was looking at the jigs. WTF is wrong with me?

    FKS definately fit. Thanks again

  10. #85
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    ^^^ please premount on a block of wood if you can with the FKS jig. There have been varied reports - some have reported the FKS works great, others report that the heel ends up mounted too far forward (I still wonder if its a print scaling issue though). Report back please!

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    I modified an old FKS template someone posted. The midsole line and/or heel position was off when I tried it. Here is a version for 315mm which I've checked on old skis, modified and rechecked. I think this puts the forward pressure indicator very slightly heavy (1mm or so) which is necessary on the heels I have. I'm mounting for real today so will confirm.

    Print at 300ppi, check scaling.
    Last edited by LC; 10-29-2009 at 05:09 AM.

  12. #87
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    Thanks BamBam - I'll crosscheck with the posted FKS template.

  13. #88
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    Seattle, WA
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    Same, I did a practice mount with two different boot sizes. I had to adjust the binding backwards to fit each boot. Everything else worked great!

  14. #89
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    GHSTRCN -
    a little more detail could help me a lot:
    *are you talking about the FKS template?
    *did you just have to move the HeelPiece mount back? how much?
    *Was the BSL in the right place, based on the BSL?
    Thanks

  15. #90
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    Apr 2004
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    I mounted 2 pairs with the FKS template I posted last week. Misdole was spot on as was forward pressure straight out of the box. The boot used is a 315mm Falcon.

  16. #91
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    Quick question for those of you who do this a lot:

    I tried mounting some Solly's on a pair of broken skis I have and I kept hitting a problem where the screw expansion in the hole would offset the mount job. I used the center punch, measured that out, everything was spot on, drilled, measured the holes, spot on. But when I lined up the first hole and screwed into it, the binding of course moved around a bit as the screw expands the hole but it offset the entire toepiece. I always screw in on diagonals (meaning if looking down on the binding, i screw in the top left screw, then bottom right, etc...not actually on an angle) just to limit this but since these were beater skis I experimented by mounting the 2 front screws first.

    By the time the 2nd screw was in, the back 2 holes were almost covered and the binding was sitting at a ridiculous angle, I measured the back plastic and it was about 4mm's off center. I feel like there's a lot of uncontrollable room for something to go wrong and get a completely offset binding. My holes were straight and in the right spot yet the screw expansion of the hole made the toepiece completely fucked up

    I'm sure there's a system for preventing this...I quadruple checked my holes and everything lined up, even checked them with a square to see if they were at the right angle relative to the ski. This is the only thing holding me back from drilling into a brand new pair of boards...but seems like if it goes wrong it's really bad

    The only other pair of skis I've freehanded was with a metal topsheet so there wasn't room for movement
    Quote Originally Posted by other grskier View Post
    well, in the three years i've been skiing i bet i can ski most anything those 'pro's' i listed can, probably

  17. #92
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    Sounds like a print-scale issue at first glance, Wes. Are you certain the ruler scale on the side of the template is exactly 8 inches long?
    If the scaling is good, start all the screws, 1-2 turns each and then work them down together, a couple turns at a time until they are snug. That should help.
    Crippled but free, I was blind all the time, I was learning to 'ski'.

    The best backcountry advice ever given on the TGR forums:

    Quote Originally Posted by skibee View Post
    Tits are a good thing, if making a good decision so you can live to see tits again is all that motivates you then so be it!!!

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teh Poacher View Post
    Sounds like a print-scale issue at first glance, Wes. Are you certain the ruler scale on the side of the template is exactly 8 inches long?
    If the scaling is good, start all the screws, 1-2 turns each and then work them down together, a couple turns at a time until they are snug. That should help.
    The print scale was exactly 8 inches, measured it 3 times

    Love the idea of 1-2 turns, can't believe I didn't think of that...it should work

    How do the rest of you deal with this? The same method of working them all in together? Or am i the only one having this issue...

    Also any tips for drawing a center line on a plexiglass template? I want to make a plexiglass jig using some of these templates but the edges are uneven due to poor hardware store cutting so triangulating or just measuring and connecting points doesn't yield good results
    Quote Originally Posted by other grskier View Post
    well, in the three years i've been skiing i bet i can ski most anything those 'pro's' i listed can, probably

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teh Poacher View Post
    ...start all the screws, 1-2 turns each and then work them down together, a couple turns at a time until they are snug...
    This is how I have always done it. I thought it was sort of the standard procedure. So far never had an issue with a binding moving out of position in dozens of mounts.
    "Good girls go to heaven. Bad ones go to hell. And girls on fast bikes go anywhere they want." Elena

  20. #95
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    46
    Quote Originally Posted by Wes Mantooth View Post
    Quick question for those of you who do this a lot:

    I tried mounting some Solly's on a pair of broken skis I have and I kept hitting a problem where the screw expansion in the hole would offset the mount job. I used the center punch, measured that out, everything was spot on, drilled, measured the holes, spot on. But when I lined up the first hole and screwed into it, the binding of course moved around a bit as the screw expands the hole but it offset the entire toepiece. I always screw in on diagonals (meaning if looking down on the binding, i screw in the top left screw, then bottom right, etc...not actually on an angle) just to limit this but since these were beater skis I experimented by mounting the 2 front screws first.

    By the time the 2nd screw was in, the back 2 holes were almost covered and the binding was sitting at a ridiculous angle, I measured the back plastic and it was about 4mm's off center. I feel like there's a lot of uncontrollable room for something to go wrong and get a completely offset binding. My holes were straight and in the right spot yet the screw expansion of the hole made the toepiece completely fucked up

    I'm sure there's a system for preventing this...I quadruple checked my holes and everything lined up, even checked them with a square to see if they were at the right angle relative to the ski. This is the only thing holding me back from drilling into a brand new pair of boards...but seems like if it goes wrong it's really bad

    The only other pair of skis I've freehanded was with a metal topsheet so there wasn't room for movement
    @ Wes Mantooth - In the interest of full disclosure, I don't consider myself an expert at this, but I've successfully mounted Dynafits and Naxos. I had a similar problem when I self-mounted my Dynafits last week. The trick is as Eldo pointed out, to start one screw, then start the kitty corner screw. Don't screw any of the screws down all the way until all the screws are started in the ski. Any binding will move a bit so working them down all together is key.

    As far as the plexi template, make a center line and go from the center line not the edges. I always mark the ski L to R center line and use that as reference rather than the edge. I think it is more exact that way. Then, all you have to do is match up center to center. Though measuring is always the most fiddly part of the whole process.

  21. #96
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    wes - this happens usually because your drill holes are not perfectly plumb. If you have a bit of an angle, even just a few degrees, the screw will "track" off to follow the hole and throw off your mount. Putting all screws in at the same time can minimize this, but it sounds to me like you've got a hole or 2 that aren't exactly straight - gotta keep the drill perp. to the ski. A drill press can help here too...

  22. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    note to self-
    TODO:
    Frischi
    check/fix P18 binding template
    Get P/Axial and PX binding jig to create paper jig from
    Solly 5th hole
    Geze 3 hole (from Riggs)
    Jesters

    I'll try to get to these before prime binding mounting season...

    can anyone help me procure the patterns for any of the above?
    Bump for Jesters!
    If you are getting rad but there is no one to see you. Are you really getting rad at all?

  23. #98
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    Wes: as mentioned by others, I always start all the screws to just before the head engages, then go back and torque down in the same diagonal pattern you mentioned.

    general update: I have a PM with exact dimensions of the Mojo15 binding, so that template will be forthcoming in the next week or so. I will also fix the FKS template, because I found my long lost pair of FKS clamps last night (also based on BamBam's information).

    PM me if you have a Jester jig and a pair of calipers, so I can make a jester template!

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by EvelKnievel View Post

    As far as the plexi template, make a center line and go from the center line not the edges. I always mark the ski L to R center line and use that as reference rather than the edge. I think it is more exact that way. Then, all you have to do is match up center to center. Though measuring is always the most fiddly part of the whole process.
    I may have been overthinking this...edges are not relevant as long as the binding isn't at such an outrageous angle that it won't fit on the 3" wide template

    I think I'll just clamp a yardstick to the plexiglass and trace out a nice straight line, then line up my paper template with that line...durr

    Also seems like general consensus is screw all screws in at the same time...can't believe that didn't occur to me before

    Thanks for the help
    Quote Originally Posted by other grskier View Post
    well, in the three years i've been skiing i bet i can ski most anything those 'pro's' i listed can, probably

  25. #100
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Las Cruces, NM
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    655
    Mounted my first pair today. PX 12 on Obsethed.
    I had to move 1 click forward on the heels for forward pressure.
    Both sides exactly the same.
    The yellow forward pressure marker on the heel pieces even lined up exactly in the middle, which is unusual. On the money I would say.

    Thanks Jondrums

    Lee

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