Binding Mount Paper Templates

[JimLad]

Probably crap wood. Find something denser, I used a piece of mdf to practice on, with a new 3.5mm bit.

[jondrums]

yes, its probably the crappy wood in a 2x4. The other thing that helps a lot, is to apply significant downward force on the butt of the screwdriver, as you turn with the other hand. I actually lean my upper body down onto the screwdriver as I turn it. I think you can see the technique in my mounting video linked on the first post.

[butterscotch]

Thanks guys. I'll see if I can find something less crappy to practice on. I'll make sure to lean on the screwdriver as well.

[geo039]

Did a quick search, but did not find any help on a Jester/Griffon demo. Any insight here?

[CaliBrit]

Did a quick search, but did not find any help on a Jester/Griffon demo. Any insight here?

The extra hole for the demo jester/griffon is exactly 55mm back from the rearmost holes of the toe piece, right on the centerline.

John has this, he is adding it to the template I believe but it is a very easy one to add yourself.

For the bsl markings on the demo to be correct you drill for 315bsl.

However, if you are using them to play with mounting point, then I would drill for your own bsl. This would have you centered with the binding set at 315bsl and give you +/-2.5cm fore and aft movement.

[OSki]

Not so sure about the terminology with my binders, rossi 180s. The toe piece on these is the 4 hole geze toe piece, no?

Does the Pivot/Axial Template work for this binding?

Many Thanks.

Also, does anyone have the plastic toe risers for fischer ff17 (tyrolia Freeflex 17) bindings, and the metal bar which connects the toe and heel pieces they want to sell or can get a hold of.

[jondrums]

^^ use the FKS template.

[OSki]

many thanks, sir.

[geo039]

WORD! Thanks (Jon email to come again, trying to sort the new demos)

The extra hole for the demo jester/griffon is exactly 55mm back from the rearmost holes of the toe piece, right on the centerline.

John has this, he is adding it to the template I believe but it is a very easy one to add yourself.

For the bsl markings on the demo to be correct you drill for 315bsl.

However, if you are using them to play with mounting point, then I would drill for your own bsl. This would have you centered with the binding set at 315bsl and give you +/-2.5cm fore and aft movement.

[geo039]

Just mounted up 3 sets of Demo Griffons today for the new little venture....thank you Mags for saving Geo a few hundred CHFs

[butterscotch]

Well, I fucked up. I cranked on that drill bit collar pretty hard, but it slipped and I now have a nice hole through one of my skis. Besides buying a proper bit from Tognar (already done), any suggestions?

I'm thinking of completing the mount, filling with some good epoxy, a base weld, and then skiing like nothing ever happened.

[Zeppelinskier]

weight the butt of the scew driver will help.
In the shop i worked at we used a tap and I never recall having a hard time putting in the screws then if I dont tap.
I assume making sure you have a good punch to dimple the top sheet has been said. Other than than that the paper jigs rock.

Oh I find beer on hand helps with the mounting process-to much will not make you a better tech

[jondrums]

Well, I fucked up. I cranked on that drill bit collar pretty hard, but it slipped and I now have a nice hole through one of my skis. Besides buying a proper bit from Tognar (already done), any suggestions?

I'm thinking of completing the mount, filling with some good epoxy, a base weld, and then skiing like nothing ever happened.

You're not the first. I usually make sure the set screws are seated in the flute of the drill, so it bites well and holds, and crank tight like you said. Also, no need to pressure the drill next time.

I'd just fill with epoxy, base weld and ski, but then I have those tools at my immediate disposal.

[Feldybikes]

The Dynafit template rules! Thanks!

I think I would prefer if there were more/skinnier alignment lines for front/back and side/side, but this could also just make things more confusing when trying to line things up.

[ToddL]

I need to remount my dynafit toes just 7mm from the previous mount. I switched boots and use the Vertical Race Ti binding that does not have an adjustable heel. Because of a very bad combination of the difference in the bsl of my previous boot and my new boot, the best option is to move the toe 7mm back. I know 7mm is not much of difference, so should I use nylon inserts, helicoil, or just remount them? I don't want to do the remount unless it will be solid since I use this setup for ski mountaineering. The ski are Karhu Sprire BC. They don't have a metal topsheet. BTW, if the 7mm difference is not advisable, the best option for a remount that's 10mm from each of the old holes is to mount at about 2 cm behind boot center, which is a bit farther back than I'd like. Thanks for any advise.

[spicoli424]

Any insight on how to change the print scale for the dynafit template to 20 CM by 8 inches like it says? Im a computer JONG using a mac the only program i can open the PDF file in is Preview. Any suggestions?

[jondrums]

set print scaling to 100% and try it. If the scale doesn't match your ruler perfectly, adjust up or down by 1% increments until it does.

Attachment 90246

[spicoli424]

set print scaling to 100% and try it. If the scale doesn't match your ruler perfectly, adjust up or down by 1% increments until it does.

Attachment 90246

Alright ill try that thanks

[Colin_Stone]

Many thanks for the binding template (R6) for Solly bindings and what a great product. Just had a practise on a piece of plywood and very simple to use. Found that boot CL was 3mm fwd of ski CL, boots are 297mm.
I assume that one cuts each pattern across at the BSL measurement and then centres the join over the ski centre line.
Getting an accurate centre line tip to tail was exercising me until I realised that a compass would do the trip. I've got Sal Lords and just next to the edge is a tiny flat of plastic, enough to stick a sharp compass point into. Stick point into ski CL and scribe arcs towards tip and tail from both sides. Repeat with different radius. One now has 4 arc intersections on the ski - 2 fwd and 2 aft. Line steel edge through all intersections and one has a centre line. Using 4 intersections will bowl out any errors.
I was also thinking of mounting with rear binding moved forward on track as my boot is probably quite small for a 177cm ski, enabling larger boots to be used if/when I sell skis.
I've also found that the metal tube and screws out of an electrical "choc" block connector makes an excellent depth stop.
Have one request - could the pattern be saved with thinner lines - nearer a hairline to help with accuracy.
Many thanks.

[LC]

I helped a friend mount some Looks with look_pivot_axial_paper_template_R2.pdf last night. The toe was fine but the heel is scaled too large in the pdf file (confirmed in Photoshop and with a ruler once printed). The file needed to be scaled to 99% and then printed at 100% for the check marks to measure true.

[sb]

Thanks again for the excellent templates. Jondrums

[jondrums]

I helped a friend mount some Looks with look_pivot_axial_paper_template_R2.pdf last night. The toe was fine but the heel is scaled too large in the pdf file (confirmed in Photoshop and with a ruler once printed). The file needed to be scaled to 99% and then printed at 100% for the check marks to measure true.

I'm not able to confirm this - its scaled perfect as far as I can tell here.

[LC]

I'm not able to confirm this - its scaled perfect as far as I can tell here.

Overlay the toe and heel pages in Photoshop (or similar). You'll see the "check print scaling" and midsole scales are scaled differently between the pages.

[HankScorpio]

^^ use the FKS template.

x2 mounted 2 pairs of old school FKS exactly like those recently using the paper templates.

[jondrums]

Overlay the toe and heel pages in Photoshop (or similar). You'll see the "check print scaling" and midsole scales are scaled differently between the pages.

It turns out that they are the same within the tolerance of Adobe PDF format (in my experience). Sorry, PDF is not the perfect format for these files, but it is the easiest for everyone to use. DXF would be better, but nobody would be able to use it. All the paper templates should be considered accurate to about +/-.25mm