how to make my XL diamirs XS's? (kids AT bindings)

[mntlion]

some XL diamers on mec.ca gear swap again

[dima]

anybody looking for a cheap set to mod here you go:
http://www.rei.com/product/800153

[mntlion]

I have found one more set of XL too.

$50 + shipping, well used, but function.

[~mikey b]

Dave - Still available?

[mntlion]

nope, mine are long sold.

[~mikey b]

well, thanks for bumping this thread again

consider me in the market if you come across another pair

Owen has some of those Adjustable Roces boots, so I think it would be easy to set him up.

Cheers!

~mike

[mntlion]

if anyone has some XL for sale, I can make em small if you get them to me..

[oldmanTex]

I cut down a medium to fit my 2nd grade son. I was able to reduce the minumum length by 25mm from bsl280 to 255mm. I elongated the slot by 25mm and moved the end cap forward by the same.

25mm cut-off - vice and reciprocating saw.


practice hole visible in the cutoff. the bar was soft enough that I did not need to tap for threads. The screws cut their own threads.


Since I knew the cut-off length, I could do some addition to mark the new indicator lengths. Handy.


Marks prior to cut and drill.


I drilled a hole at the end of the elongated slot, and cut the length with a reciprocating saw. Cleaned it up with a file.


Finished product. The hardest part was drilling holes in the top of the shaped bar. I couldn't keep the bit from wandering and I ended up moving the hole in the plastic end cap to fit the off center hole in the bar.

[~mikey b]

bump because I know some folks are interested

I’ve got some XL Freeride+ for sale if you want to do this

I could maybe be convinced to do the cut down project for you

[MyNameIsAugustWest]

Thnx for bumping this...I just took the M FRs I had on GS off because a good local friend (non-mag) wants to put touring bindings on his kid's skis. Need a BSL down around 260.

The post from 2014 indicated you could do this with the Ms as well. Any reason why that wouldn't work? The kid probably weighs 60 pounds so it isn't like he's going to be putting a ton of stress on the bar....

I'm also thinking you could use the cutoff piece of the bar as a jig to keep the drill bit from wandering (I have a manual drill press) if you trim off the sides/bottom.

[~mikey b]

I do not know. I've only ever done it with XL Freerides and Silvretta Pure Kidz.

[mntlion]

I think just / only XL as the new channel you grind into the bar, would not have an end (adding to the existing channel)

but maybe you can find a work around on that too?

[MyNameIsAugustWest]

Makes sense after looking at them.

OTOH, what purpose does the channel serve? If it's only to keep from setting the heel too far forward/back, I can mark the point on the never ending channel that would correspond to the end of the channel now and just not run the heels any further back. Or, DoWork is a magician with a welder and I might check with him to see hw we could replicate the end of the channel.

I'll give it a try and report back.

[timmaio]

I'm looking for ways to get my 5yo out touring in AT gear. Currently tow him up, but it would be great to have him skin himself, even if slow. He's in mondo 17 boots. Think these would work?

[~mikey b]

yes

[bnleduc]

Got the idea from this thread
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d.php?t=147812
and tried to make some kids AT bindings.

This is making an XL binding into a kids size. I don't think this will work for a medium to small, or anyother combo. Please feel free to try, but don't blame me if you screw something up that can't be fixed


Remove the T10 screw on from the cap at the end of the rail (Torx head, show with small tool in place)

remove the T10 screw from the bottom of the heel, nearest the back of the bindings

remove both the cap (it has a long screw attached to it) and the heel.

Then cut the rail, just past the 70 mm long hole for adjusting the boot size. You are cutting off 110mm off the bindings rails. This makes a 330-360mm XL go to 220-250mm.

file, sand and smooth the edges etc

Drill a new hole for the end cap, 10mm from the back of the rail, on center

drill a new hole for the start of boot size adjustment rail (20 mm from the cap screw) and one more 65mm towards the toe (adjustment is 70mm in total)

Hey, I know this is an old thread...but I need a little insight please....

SO I got a pair of XL's to do this for my 6 year old a year and a half ago(thanks to a generous forum member). Well, kid number 2 and life got in the way and I never did. Now I have a brand spankin new(old stock) pair of g-rides boots for him with a 270mm sole and the cut down beyond the slot would leave the binding too small....

So, what do you think about just elongating the slot, and cuting the end , but the end cap would be OVER the current slot. DO you think structural this would be horrible? I"m thinking the toughest part is going to be drilling the hole dead center or the end cap, and there being enough material for that to grab. I was thinking if needed I could tape up the end, and fill the like last inch of the rail interior with gflex, or jbweld for more strength, plus I could then add a longer screw if needed....

Also need some small brakes....his skis are like 70 under foot, ha! but luckily those are still available for BD if I cant find any.

Or do I say screw it and try to trade my XL's for a pair of smalls, or but some Used barons or something??

Oh yeah, he only weights like 50lbs max...so I dont think he'll be putting a ton of stress on these.

Heres what I'm looking at, any input would be appreciated, thanks!!!!

[Jonathan S.]

I can sell, for shipping cost plus some nominal amount, a brand new pair of Silvretta Pure bindings, plus a lot of new parts too.
This model is highly amenable to being cut down since all you need to do is shorten the side rails.
Have to use an AT boot though, not alpine downhill boots.

[~mikey b]

that’s what you want

[XXX-er]

so I'm not doing the project but i am curious about setting release values, if memory serves the FR+ only goes down to 4 ??