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  1. #126
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    318
    Had an incident with one of my Dukes and I was wondering if anyone had any insight as to what caused it. First of all I am unsure to the correct terminology for the part that broke so forgive my attempt at a description. I was pumping along a flatish section over some rollers at the top of a run and went to stop, at this point the heel of my uphill ski lifted up. I took my ski off to see what was up and realised that the metal piece directly attached to the lever that pushes the binding forwards and backwards had broken (the sort of wear to the metal that you would see from bending a coathanger being bent back and forth until failure). this was about 1 cm along the piece running away from the center screw. I know people have caused damage due to forcing the lever with ice and I have been nothing short of OCD in terms of cleaning it out before transitioning. My other binding shows no sign of wear in this spot whatsoever. I am wonding if it was an issue with the metal or maybe a mounting error (done by the shop). any insight would be appreciated, they are being warrantied but i want to know if there is a bigger problem i need to address????

  2. #127
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Droppin' in ten!
    Posts
    1,121
    Possible mounting error.

    Do you remove the ice/snow off the bottom of your boot before stepping in? I have seen similar failures when people don't get all the ice/snow and stomp in and crack something in that area.

    Either way, there is no bigger issue. Read through this thread when you get your replacement pair.
    Quote Originally Posted by splat View Post
    It's the same argument for prostitution. There's a lot of people in this world who won't be getting laid unless they pay big bucks or fuck an artificial life form. No amount of consolation, pity or comiserating is going to change that reality.
    Slaughter is the best medicine.

  3. #128
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Chamonix
    Posts
    935
    Quote Originally Posted by tone capone View Post
    As has been said before, spray Pam all over the plate and underneath the heelpiece, do it often. If you do this liberally and often, (every five ski days or so.) it can solve your de-icing problem 95%. They'll just slide right shut.
    For Euro folk... "Pam" == cooking vegetable oil spray? Would WD40 or GT85 do the same job or possibly weaken plastic parts?

  4. #129
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    Posts
    3,344
    Quote Originally Posted by tone capone View Post
    As has been said before, spray Pam all over the plate and underneath the heelpiece, do it often. If you do this liberally and often, (every five ski days or so.) it can solve your de-icing problem 95%. They'll just slide right shut. Mine have had the lever rivet play anyways since they were new, and it hasn't gotten too much worse in around 80 days of use. I'll let the collective know when I can actually start to feel it skiing.
    That's a good idea! I'll probably do this but with silicone spray instead of Pam - less yucky.

  5. #130
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    15,660
    Quote Originally Posted by D(C) View Post
    That's a good idea! I'll probably do this but with silicone spray instead of Pam - less yucky.
    I use silicone spray, works fairly well.

    Armor All (car tire protectant stuff) is silicone based, and might be cheaper/easier to find. It should work fine too, without damaging any of the materials on the ski or binding.

  6. #131
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    318
    Quote Originally Posted by F.D.V. View Post
    Do you remove the ice/snow off the bottom of your boot before stepping in? I have seen similar failures when people don't get all the ice/snow and stomp in and crack something in that area.
    Good call, I will definitely keep that in mind. I dont pretend to have a total grasp on how the bingind works but i would assume there is some sort of forward motion stopper on the heel plate to keep the binding from just continuing forward with any forward boot pressure. If that was mounted too far forward then maybe the metal piece was stressed a little bit every time pressure was applied, at least up until the stopper was engaged?

  7. #132
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    5,929
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    I use silicone spray, works fairly well.

    Armor All (car tire protectant stuff) is silicone based, and might be cheaper/easier to find. It should work fine too, without damaging any of the materials on the ski or binding.
    But it doesn't make your skis smell delicious Remember that you can also rub the bindings down with avalanche bacon.


    Note: I wouldn't use WD40 since it will dry out and not produce the effect you want.

  8. #133
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    15,660
    Quote Originally Posted by Spats View Post
    But it doesn't make your skis smell delicious Remember that you can also rub the bindings down with avalanche bacon.
    [imagining the smell of rancid bacon grease in a crammed-full tram...]


  9. #134
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    DAWGnation
    Posts
    682
    anyone have an extra heel piece they would give me or sell to me? I just need the part that can slide forward/backward on the track. This explains it

  10. #135
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    6,239
    Just broke both of my AFDs and lost the little side sliders off one binding altogether. Oh well, 3 seasons of hard use and I guess there are worse things to have to deal with. Are you guys getting replacements directly from Marker or just going through a shop?
    I'm so hardcore, I'm gnarcore.

  11. #136
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    SE AK
    Posts
    328
    Quote Originally Posted by Paj View Post
    anyone have an extra heel piece they would give me or sell to me? I just need the part that can slide forward/backward on the track. This explains it
    holy crap how did you do that?
    "Nothing like a very, very amorous woman in a leg imobilizer who dozes off every 3 1/2 minutes."
    -Notchtop

  12. #137
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Carbondale
    Posts
    10,345
    Quote Originally Posted by Particle View Post
    Just broke both of my AFDs and lost the little side sliders off one binding altogether. Oh well, 3 seasons of hard use and I guess there are worse things to have to deal with. Are you guys getting replacements directly from Marker or just going through a shop?
    Interested also...

    Have a broken base plate.... I think I got these off BC but don't remember any more. Have a dealer here that I may be able to use.

  13. #138
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Simi Valley, CA
    Posts
    5,106

    Duke / Barron Drill Pattern

    I did a search and couldn't find a Duke / Barron drill pattern dimension drawing, so I measured a template with a quality caliper and came out with this.

    http://www.phototurbo.com/images/duk...ll-pattern.jpg




    I realize not too many people have access to a mill with digital read out, but for those that do these dimenions will make drilling a ski for Dukes as easy as pie.

    I'll probably do a nicer sketch one of these days, but this is good enough for now. I'll keep the image name and URL the same in case anyone wants to link to it.
    Last edited by 1000-oaks; 12-29-2010 at 12:17 AM.

  14. #139
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    6,239
    Quote Originally Posted by grskier View Post
    Interested also...

    Have a broken base plate.... I think I got these off BC but don't remember any more. Have a dealer here that I may be able to use.
    Inquired at Marker and they will only go thru authorized dealers. So, placed an order and waiting for replacements. Annoying, but not a horrible process.
    I'm so hardcore, I'm gnarcore.

  15. #140
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Carbondale
    Posts
    10,345
    Quote Originally Posted by Particle View Post
    Inquired at Marker and they will only go thru authorized dealers. So, placed an order and waiting for replacements. Annoying, but not a horrible process.
    Thanks, I'll see what the shop can get done for me then...

  16. #141
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Bozeman
    Posts
    116
    tits this is exactly what I was looking for. I had some skis mounted with dukes a few weeks ago and my boots toe is experiencing a ton of "popping" up and down within the toe of the binding. Took it back to the shop to find out that the toe height on each ski was set at 2 completely different heights that weren't even remotely close. So either it was set there, or leaked off a fuck ton, neither of which is very confidence inspiring but oh well. They adjusted and it helped a little, but its still very noticeable. So i'll try adjusting it myself.

  17. #142
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Blackcomb
    Posts
    1,139
    Anybody ever use Jig-A-Loo on the tracks, seems like it would be ideal??
    http://www.jigaloo.com/us/e_faqs.php
    Just fucking point it and shut up

  18. #143
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    2
    A little bit of a double post here from me (already put this info in another tread about the Marker Tour).

    Found out today that AFDs are interchangeable between Duke and Tour. Needed a quick fix on my Tours and the Duke AFD slid right on.

  19. #144
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Fish
    Posts
    2,990
    I went to pull off a broken AFD from a buddies dukes to find they are no longer using the C-clip on the pivot pin. It is mushroomed instead on one end like a rivet. Are the new dukes not serviceable?
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  20. #145
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Simi Valley, CA
    Posts
    5,106
    I looked at the new Baron 13 last night and was surprised to see the bolt hole under the mode lever is no longer a slot, and the screw is a flat head instead of a pan head.

    Wonder if this will result in the same rate of baseplate breakage as when Dukes first came out, and folks overtightened the screw under the lever? (breaking the baseplate when the ski flexes deeply)

  21. #146
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Chamonix
    Posts
    935
    Sorry, I did search this thread and others, but is there an AFD-swap tutorial somewhere on here? Or anyone care to post instructions here so it's together with all the other Duke info? I noticed today one of mine (on 08/09 black Dukes) has a hairline crack on one side and a missing piece of plastic on the other, and my buddy's shop should be able to ship a replacement to me to fix it myself.

  22. #147
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    9

    Lever Fails to Lock - Looking for repair advice

    Anybody have advice to fix a lever that doesn't "lock" into place? The metal pull-tab that attaches the lever and toe piece has bent so lever doesn't lock down on the ski but kind of hovers above the locked position.

    I picked up these marker dukes used on a pair of k2 hellbents, and didn't notice the problem till I got home . The center screw has pulled out on the binding in question. After reading through this thread, my guess is that once that happened, unusual torque got applied on the binding. This pressure bent the springy steel pull tab that normally locks the lever down. I've attached some pics.

    - Is this possible to fix or would it be covered under warranty?
    - If so, would it be possible to re-anchor the center screw in the stripped screw hole, or should I remount the bindings elsewhere? They're actually mounted now pretty much where I want them - about +3 for my boot.

    Thanks in advance. This is my first post, though this forum's been a great resource as I get back into skiing for the first time since my teenage years!


    Lever doesn't lock but floats.



    Springy metal tab is bent



    Center screw pulled out

  23. #148
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Southern Oregon
    Posts
    11
    I'm looking to buy some Marker Dukes (large) and was hoping to score some used (since $450 is a little out of my mortgage paying/ no rich parents price range). Before I start shopping, I was wondering if they have changed in the last few years and if there is anything that I should look out for? Thanks for the help

  24. #149
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Southern Oregon
    Posts
    11
    to ^jindustry^ I'm not sure what Marker will cover under their warranty (I believe its only 1 yr. though) but as for the stripped hole your best bet would be to heli-coil it and or epoxy (If you search on here there are a bunch of posts on how to repair a stripped hole). Might be worth taking it down to your local ski shope and having it looked at, but if you want to fix it on your own:

    As for the bent piece in the picture I would disconnect it from the aluminum looking piece and if possible take it off all together and straigten it with a hammer and a block of wood or piece of metal (don't pound on it, just slowly tap it back to its original shape). Also now that this piece has been "fatigued" it will want to bend there again so I would try and reinforce it with another piece of metal and either epoxy it or pop rivit it on, but make sure to check for boot/binding clearances before you make the repair permanent. Also, Fixing this should make it so it will lock in place again.

  25. #150
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    2,508
    Quote Originally Posted by john55blaze View Post
    I'm looking to buy some Marker Dukes (large) and was hoping to score some used (since $450 is a little out of my mortgage paying/ no rich parents price range). Before I start shopping, I was wondering if they have changed in the last few years and if there is anything that I should look out for? Thanks for the help
    Incremental changes over the years. The biggest difference is the color changed from black to white. If you find a good deal on used Dukes (frequently found for around $250 on this board) then snatch them up and have fun.

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