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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by ectreeskier11 View Post
    could you elaborate? do you mean just push it up until it sticks, and then either hit the heel piece to lock it in or the toe piece to realease?
    Yeah, thats pretty much it. Hopefully I'll get around to posting a quick video soon.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by TWINS View Post
    For anyone having issues getting Scarpas to engage the heel piece correctly.
    Push down on the heel release "dildo" with your ski pole while you step in.
    This forces the heel to move backwards which helps with the tight boot heel clearance on Scarpas.
    I will give this a try as my Skookums dont engage well. Thx
    Drink to remember not to forget!
    Fourisight Wines

  3. #103
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    Scenario: I have two pair of dukes, I broke the AFD on the one I want to ski tomorrow.

    Question: Can I take the AFD off of the working pair and put it on the non-working pair while I wait for a replacement AFD to show up? If so, how does that happen?

    Thanks!

  4. #104
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    Solution: Yes I can, just pop the pivot pin out (watch out for the clip, fucker flies off the pin and is super easy to lose) and the whole thing slides out. Easy. Now who has my extra AFD?

  5. #105
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    I successfully superglued a broken AFD back together. I was lucky enough to catch it before it exploded into pieces that I couldn't find.

    yesterday my fucking duke prereleased on me for no reason and caused me to sprain my knee. Today it took me 10 minutes to get my bindings back into ski mode after a long skin up. I was getting more and more pissed off the longer my buddies were waiting for me. I thought this would be a reasonable place to post a pissed off vent...

    I know - sweet blog.

  6. #106
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    Nov 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spats View Post
    2) Setting toe height is tricky. The boot toe wants to sit down against the AFD when it's in the binding, so you might think the toe is tight when there's still a huge amount of space. This will cause slop and prereleases.
    WARNING: sorry for the excessively JONG question. I'm new to Dukes, and have never really messed with AFDs before.

    Yesterday I notice some vertical movement in the boot toe. I'm guessing this is cause the AFD height was too low? The AFD plate should be pressing against the toe of the boot, in order to press in up into the toe binder, right?

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    203
    the afd shouldnt be like death grip pushing up on the sole of the boot no. Markers nice picture guide you get with the binding has the correct "thickness" spacer to use but you can just fold a piece of paper in half and its basically the same. Then just place between the boot toe and the afd and tighten the afd. Then start to back off the afd untill you can pull the piece of paper out without it tearing.

    Least thats how i do it and i have yet to have a problem with the afd personally. Though maybe someone else can post how they do it as well. And of course if you have a AT boot it can be a bit tricky as the soles tend to liek to grip the paper

  8. #108
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    Apr 2008
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    Yup...follow Marker's instructions, then wonder why your AFD blows up.

    Read the last five pages of posts...JONG!

    Quote Originally Posted by Velillen View Post
    Though maybe someone else can post how they do it as well. And of course if you have a AT boot it can be a bit tricky as the soles tend to liek to grip the paper
    Quote Originally Posted by alto View Post
    I'm not comfortable at all with this concept of responsibility for one's self.
    Call forth the name of Ullr, and rejoice, for he hath brought forth that which you seek, that which calls to your soul, and thus, completes your existence in this world.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by SwissBushwacker View Post
    Yesterday I notice some vertical movement in the boot toe. I'm guessing this is cause the AFD height was too low? The AFD plate should be pressing against the toe of the boot, in order to press in up into the toe binder, right?
    What Velillen said.

    Remember that you have to push the boot toe upward while checking this, because it wants to sit down on the AFD, and you'll think there is no clearance at all when there is actually too much clearance.

  10. #110
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    Anybody know if there is a measurement one can find that is different between the Small and Larges? I've never seen the two next to each other, but as i can't find it marked anywhere maybe a ruler could help? TIA-
    Something about the wrinkle in your forehead tells me there's a fit about to get thrown
    And I never hear a single word you say when you tell me not to have my fun
    It's the same old shit that I ain't gonna take off anyone.
    and I never had a shortage of people tryin' to warn me about the dangers I pose to myself.

    Patterson Hood of the DBT's

  11. #111
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    ^^^

    Are you talking about overall length, difference between holes, or what?

    Small and large dukes use the same front and middle holes, just different rear holes.
    Quote Originally Posted by splat View Post
    It's the same argument for prostitution. There's a lot of people in this world who won't be getting laid unless they pay big bucks or fuck an artificial life form. No amount of consolation, pity or comiserating is going to change that reality.
    Slaughter is the best medicine.

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by F.D.V. View Post
    ^^^

    Are you talking about overall length, difference between holes, or what?

    Small and large dukes use the same front and middle holes, just different rear holes.
    Are there any measurements one could take, of the Duke on the ski, which would tell you whether it was L or S?
    Something about the wrinkle in your forehead tells me there's a fit about to get thrown
    And I never hear a single word you say when you tell me not to have my fun
    It's the same old shit that I ain't gonna take off anyone.
    and I never had a shortage of people tryin' to warn me about the dangers I pose to myself.

    Patterson Hood of the DBT's

  13. #113
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    ^^
    A small will only fit up to a 320mm BSL (if I rememeber correctly). So measure the max distance between the toe peice and the heel, if it is larger than 320mm you have yourself a large, 320 or less you have a small.

  14. #114
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    If you look at the paper template thread that is going, you will be able to measure the difference between the center screw and the axis on the front holes for the rear of the binding. This will allow you to determine the size.
    Quote Originally Posted by splat View Post
    It's the same argument for prostitution. There's a lot of people in this world who won't be getting laid unless they pay big bucks or fuck an artificial life form. No amount of consolation, pity or comiserating is going to change that reality.
    Slaughter is the best medicine.

  15. #115
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    Jul 2008
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    to the above query about Large vs. Small... if you release the heel lift and look underneath the plastic center bar that connects the toe to the heel (name of that part escapes me) you'll see in very light black etching (its black on black so its hard to see) an arrow that is pointing in one direction or another, that will tell you large vs small...


    Question...not exactly care and feeding, but no need to start a new thread...

    Do Dukes change the flex of a ski...please point me to the thread if it exists, I'm thinking the plastic running under your foot might stiffen/change the natural flexing of a ski, I only ask because I'm contemplating changing out dukes to jesters on my motherships which are heavy enough as it is...will it give the flex a little more progressive feeling...I realize motherships are stiff as a son of a anyway, just thinking if dukes affect the flex?
    Do I detect a lot of anger flowing around this place? Kind of like a pubescent volatility, some angst, a lot of I'm-sixteen-and-angry-at-my-father syndrome?

    fuck that noise.

    gmen.

  16. #116
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    Dec 2006
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    Quick question about dukes--I searched for a long ass time and found nothing.

    I just picked up a pair of dukes on gear swap, and I think they are from the first year of production. Were any significant changes made from 07/08 to 08/09? It seems like I remember seeing something about changes/improvements made after the first year? If this is the case, what changes were made, and what precautions should I take so I dont break them/excessively stress weak parts of the binding.

  17. #117
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    Paj, thanks for bumping this, but i have no wisdom to offer, other than what you've already read about being careful switching in and out of tour mode.

    VPM, thanks for the S vs L tip, spot on, found that arrow in seconds. Thanks!!
    Something about the wrinkle in your forehead tells me there's a fit about to get thrown
    And I never hear a single word you say when you tell me not to have my fun
    It's the same old shit that I ain't gonna take off anyone.
    and I never had a shortage of people tryin' to warn me about the dangers I pose to myself.

    Patterson Hood of the DBT's

  18. #118
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    Jan 2009
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    Aspen
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    Quick question about my 09/10 Dukes...

    Have them mounted on Salomon Czars and I'd estimate I've got about 30-40 days on them. This season I've noticed that if I grab the toe piece on either binding I can kind of wiggle it back and forth (from the direction of the tip-tail of the ski, not side to side). It's a very subtle movement and I haven't noticed it when skiing, only when I have the skis in my hands.

    Wondering if a screw is loose or something, or if this is normal? I'm probably being paranoid but I just wanna get thoughts from the maggot collective and make sure nothing is wrong.

  19. #119
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    Apr 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by JaytaeMoney View Post
    Quick question about my 09/10 Dukes...

    Have them mounted on Salomon Czars and I'd estimate I've got about 30-40 days on them. This season I've noticed that if I grab the toe piece on either binding I can kind of wiggle it back and forth (from the direction of the tip-tail of the ski, not side to side). It's a very subtle movement and I haven't noticed it when skiing, only when I have the skis in my hands.

    Wondering if a screw is loose or something, or if this is normal? I'm probably being paranoid but I just wanna get thoughts from the maggot collective and make sure nothing is wrong.
    Same problem I, and many others have had. If you don't clean all the ice out of the tracks when switching back from tour mode to ski mode, and you force the tour/ski lever, you end up ovalizing the rivet hole, leading to play.

    You have two choices: Send your bindings back to Marker in the middle of the season and wait two months for another Duke that will eventually have the same problme - or go Dynafit.

  20. #120
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    Well that makes sense, it's like it's sliding along the track when you switch it back and forth from tour to ski mode, just a very minuscule amount.

    I already had to deal with Marker's slow as hell warranty processing last year when I broke one of my heel pieces and I'd rather live with it than go through that again. If this was a newer setup I'd be pretty pissed off though.

  21. #121
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    Some good information at the bottom of the page regarding what Marker is doing to mitigate the problems with the fore/aft slop.

    http://www.wildsnow.com/1650/marker-duke-ski-bindings/

    That said, I have not noticed it in any of my Dukes, and I have one pair going on three years of use.
    Quote Originally Posted by splat View Post
    It's the same argument for prostitution. There's a lot of people in this world who won't be getting laid unless they pay big bucks or fuck an artificial life form. No amount of consolation, pity or comiserating is going to change that reality.
    Slaughter is the best medicine.

  22. #122
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    Well I guess I'm lucky... the Marker guy quoted in that comment section said it's typically about 1mm and doesn't affect skiing performance and I can say that that has been my experience so far (who knows it could get worse). One commenter said he has 8mm of play, I can't see how that wouldn't affect performance.

  23. #123
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    8mm of play would be unacceptable, but, as with all touring bindings I would assume the guy didn't clear the ice and snow out from under the plates when switching from tour to ski mode.

    That is just a thing you gotta pay attention to with these. Almost all touring bindings have something that is not perfect (Fritschi=slop, Dyna=fiddles, Duke=durability). That said, if you pay attention to the icing issue and clear the ice and snow from the plates, it is a problem which is easily avoided. Just bring a small flathead screwdriver and you will be set. Does it suck if you have to do this? Kinda, but, the compromise is worth it for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by JaytaeMoney View Post
    Well I guess I'm lucky... the Marker guy quoted in that comment section said it's typically about 1mm and doesn't affect skiing performance and I can say that that has been my experience so far (who knows it could get worse). One commenter said he has 8mm of play, I can't see how that wouldn't affect performance.
    Quote Originally Posted by splat View Post
    It's the same argument for prostitution. There's a lot of people in this world who won't be getting laid unless they pay big bucks or fuck an artificial life form. No amount of consolation, pity or comiserating is going to change that reality.
    Slaughter is the best medicine.

  24. #124
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    Mar 2008
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    3,173
    As has been said before, spray Pam all over the plate and underneath the heelpiece, do it often. If you do this liberally and often, (every five ski days or so.) it can solve your de-icing problem 95%. They'll just slide right shut. Mine have had the lever rivet play anyways since they were new, and it hasn't gotten too much worse in around 80 days of use. I'll let the collective know when I can actually start to feel it skiing.
    "The skis just popped me up out of the snow and I went screaming down the hill on a high better than any heroin junkie." She Ra

  25. #125
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    Apr 2004
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    Chamonix
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    Anyone else have 130mm Duke brakes the don't lock together at all? I mean when snapping them together base-to-base for transport. I have mine on Thugs which have quite a lot of camber which probably doesn't help. Anyone had a similar problem and bent them a little (what way?) to get around this?

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