Results 101 to 125 of 200
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01-17-2010, 10:30 PM #101
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01-18-2010, 12:36 PM #102Drink to remember not to forget!
Fourisight Wines
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01-23-2010, 08:57 PM #103
Scenario: I have two pair of dukes, I broke the AFD on the one I want to ski tomorrow.
Question: Can I take the AFD off of the working pair and put it on the non-working pair while I wait for a replacement AFD to show up? If so, how does that happen?
Thanks!
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01-23-2010, 10:27 PM #104
Solution: Yes I can, just pop the pivot pin out (watch out for the clip, fucker flies off the pin and is super easy to lose) and the whole thing slides out. Easy. Now who has my extra AFD?
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01-25-2010, 02:27 AM #105
I successfully superglued a broken AFD back together. I was lucky enough to catch it before it exploded into pieces that I couldn't find.
yesterday my fucking duke prereleased on me for no reason and caused me to sprain my knee. Today it took me 10 minutes to get my bindings back into ski mode after a long skin up. I was getting more and more pissed off the longer my buddies were waiting for me. I thought this would be a reasonable place to post a pissed off vent...
I know - sweet blog.
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01-25-2010, 06:30 AM #106
WARNING: sorry for the excessively JONG question. I'm new to Dukes, and have never really messed with AFDs before.
Yesterday I notice some vertical movement in the boot toe. I'm guessing this is cause the AFD height was too low? The AFD plate should be pressing against the toe of the boot, in order to press in up into the toe binder, right?
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01-25-2010, 06:58 AM #107Registered User
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
- Posts
- 203
the afd shouldnt be like death grip pushing up on the sole of the boot no. Markers nice picture guide you get with the binding has the correct "thickness" spacer to use but you can just fold a piece of paper in half and its basically the same. Then just place between the boot toe and the afd and tighten the afd. Then start to back off the afd untill you can pull the piece of paper out without it tearing.
Least thats how i do it and i have yet to have a problem with the afd personally. Though maybe someone else can post how they do it as well. And of course if you have a AT boot it can be a bit tricky as the soles tend to liek to grip the paper
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01-25-2010, 09:46 AM #108
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01-25-2010, 10:00 AM #109
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01-25-2010, 10:08 AM #110
Anybody know if there is a measurement one can find that is different between the Small and Larges? I've never seen the two next to each other, but as i can't find it marked anywhere maybe a ruler could help? TIA-
Something about the wrinkle in your forehead tells me there's a fit about to get thrown
And I never hear a single word you say when you tell me not to have my fun
It's the same old shit that I ain't gonna take off anyone.
and I never had a shortage of people tryin' to warn me about the dangers I pose to myself.
Patterson Hood of the DBT's
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01-25-2010, 11:05 AM #111
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01-25-2010, 11:17 AM #112Something about the wrinkle in your forehead tells me there's a fit about to get thrown
And I never hear a single word you say when you tell me not to have my fun
It's the same old shit that I ain't gonna take off anyone.
and I never had a shortage of people tryin' to warn me about the dangers I pose to myself.
Patterson Hood of the DBT's
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01-25-2010, 11:32 AM #113Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
- Location
- 51°03′N 114°04′W
- Posts
- 360
^^
A small will only fit up to a 320mm BSL (if I rememeber correctly). So measure the max distance between the toe peice and the heel, if it is larger than 320mm you have yourself a large, 320 or less you have a small.
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01-25-2010, 03:08 PM #114
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02-02-2010, 04:43 PM #115
to the above query about Large vs. Small... if you release the heel lift and look underneath the plastic center bar that connects the toe to the heel (name of that part escapes me) you'll see in very light black etching (its black on black so its hard to see) an arrow that is pointing in one direction or another, that will tell you large vs small...
Question...not exactly care and feeding, but no need to start a new thread...
Do Dukes change the flex of a ski...please point me to the thread if it exists, I'm thinking the plastic running under your foot might stiffen/change the natural flexing of a ski, I only ask because I'm contemplating changing out dukes to jesters on my motherships which are heavy enough as it is...will it give the flex a little more progressive feeling...I realize motherships are stiff as a son of a anyway, just thinking if dukes affect the flex?Do I detect a lot of anger flowing around this place? Kind of like a pubescent volatility, some angst, a lot of I'm-sixteen-and-angry-at-my-father syndrome?
fuck that noise.
gmen.
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08-19-2010, 09:48 PM #116
Quick question about dukes--I searched for a long ass time and found nothing.
I just picked up a pair of dukes on gear swap, and I think they are from the first year of production. Were any significant changes made from 07/08 to 08/09? It seems like I remember seeing something about changes/improvements made after the first year? If this is the case, what changes were made, and what precautions should I take so I dont break them/excessively stress weak parts of the binding.
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08-19-2010, 10:22 PM #117
Paj, thanks for bumping this, but i have no wisdom to offer, other than what you've already read about being careful switching in and out of tour mode.
VPM, thanks for the S vs L tip, spot on, found that arrow in seconds. Thanks!!Something about the wrinkle in your forehead tells me there's a fit about to get thrown
And I never hear a single word you say when you tell me not to have my fun
It's the same old shit that I ain't gonna take off anyone.
and I never had a shortage of people tryin' to warn me about the dangers I pose to myself.
Patterson Hood of the DBT's
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11-27-2010, 02:52 PM #118
Quick question about my 09/10 Dukes...
Have them mounted on Salomon Czars and I'd estimate I've got about 30-40 days on them. This season I've noticed that if I grab the toe piece on either binding I can kind of wiggle it back and forth (from the direction of the tip-tail of the ski, not side to side). It's a very subtle movement and I haven't noticed it when skiing, only when I have the skis in my hands.
Wondering if a screw is loose or something, or if this is normal? I'm probably being paranoid but I just wanna get thoughts from the maggot collective and make sure nothing is wrong.
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11-27-2010, 05:20 PM #119Registered User
- Join Date
- Apr 2004
- Location
- South Lake Tahoe
- Posts
- 3,612
Same problem I, and many others have had. If you don't clean all the ice out of the tracks when switching back from tour mode to ski mode, and you force the tour/ski lever, you end up ovalizing the rivet hole, leading to play.
You have two choices: Send your bindings back to Marker in the middle of the season and wait two months for another Duke that will eventually have the same problme - or go Dynafit.
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11-27-2010, 06:31 PM #120
Well that makes sense, it's like it's sliding along the track when you switch it back and forth from tour to ski mode, just a very minuscule amount.
I already had to deal with Marker's slow as hell warranty processing last year when I broke one of my heel pieces and I'd rather live with it than go through that again. If this was a newer setup I'd be pretty pissed off though.
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11-27-2010, 06:57 PM #121
Some good information at the bottom of the page regarding what Marker is doing to mitigate the problems with the fore/aft slop.
http://www.wildsnow.com/1650/marker-duke-ski-bindings/
That said, I have not noticed it in any of my Dukes, and I have one pair going on three years of use.
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11-27-2010, 08:56 PM #122
Well I guess I'm lucky... the Marker guy quoted in that comment section said it's typically about 1mm and doesn't affect skiing performance and I can say that that has been my experience so far (who knows it could get worse). One commenter said he has 8mm of play, I can't see how that wouldn't affect performance.
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11-27-2010, 10:35 PM #123
8mm of play would be unacceptable, but, as with all touring bindings I would assume the guy didn't clear the ice and snow out from under the plates when switching from tour to ski mode.
That is just a thing you gotta pay attention to with these. Almost all touring bindings have something that is not perfect (Fritschi=slop, Dyna=fiddles, Duke=durability). That said, if you pay attention to the icing issue and clear the ice and snow from the plates, it is a problem which is easily avoided. Just bring a small flathead screwdriver and you will be set. Does it suck if you have to do this? Kinda, but, the compromise is worth it for me.
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11-27-2010, 10:53 PM #124
As has been said before, spray Pam all over the plate and underneath the heelpiece, do it often. If you do this liberally and often, (every five ski days or so.) it can solve your de-icing problem 95%. They'll just slide right shut. Mine have had the lever rivet play anyways since they were new, and it hasn't gotten too much worse in around 80 days of use. I'll let the collective know when I can actually start to feel it skiing.
"The skis just popped me up out of the snow and I went screaming down the hill on a high better than any heroin junkie." She Ra
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11-28-2010, 07:23 AM #125Registered User
- Join Date
- Apr 2004
- Location
- Chamonix
- Posts
- 1,012
Anyone else have 130mm Duke brakes the don't lock together at all? I mean when snapping them together base-to-base for transport. I have mine on Thugs which have quite a lot of camber which probably doesn't help. Anyone had a similar problem and bent them a little (what way?) to get around this?
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