Painting Skis - info post

[Borat]

If you want any info on working with veneer, i found a good thread on another Forum.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...hp/t-6915.html

[cooltsi]

Are you guys masking the sidewalls? Getting ready to do some Dynamic badged powder pluses with bedliner material that I did my truck in a few weeks ago. You can get it from Duplicolor in the gallon sizes and walmart carries it in in rattle cans as well. It's paintable as well. Black, with maybe a graffic and some clear coat to top it off.

[Will]

I wonder how difficult it would be to glue some oak/spruce/birch, etc. veneer to the tops.

MtnLion did that exact thing with a pair of explosives a few seasons back. PM him for info.

Edit - Yes, I put tape on the sidewalls.

[Dromond]

MtnLion did that exact thing with a pair of explosives a few seasons back. PM him for info.

Edit - Yes, I put tape on the sidewalls.

I had a pair that mntlion did up. He did a good job with them. They looked pretty sweet, but the topheet got very worn out over time. Chipped, peeled, etc. Just keep that in mind.

[jrm27]

Great thread! I had asked about a thred liek this over at the Barkign Bear forums and they pointed me here. Excellent information.

I'm looking to repaint some old Volkl 5 stars that I got this weekend, and was wondering if anyone has done that ski? It has a unique finish on it (textured and rough) and wasn't sure if anyone had tackled this. Is that something that could even be sanded down?

[Squatch]

Bump for aesthetics and other questions:

I have some well-loved brototypes (original pair, actually) that have been ninja'd. They've seen ~150 days and have some edge damage. Instead of marking my left and right skis, I wanted to do something a bit more creative that would accomplish the same purpose, and put a graphic going over both skis. I've decided to go with the jolly roger. At the risk of sounding like the guy from newschoolers, I'm curious what the collective has to say about design ideas.

Currently they're flat black, with what seems like two layers of black--there are a few areas where the top coat came off. Additionally there are a bunch of hairline cracks from flexing. Basically the current paint job is shit, and I fear if I take off part of it I will have to sand the whole thing down completely and start from scratch. What I've done so far was to sand just the general area where I wanted to put the jolly roger.

Since I may have to sand the whole thing, I'm wondering about painting it white, with a black jolly roger. Yes, I know--not traditional. I can't visualize if it would look gay or cool in my head. Also, I'm not sure if the black paint after sanding will poke through the white.

Think I'm going to go with the fusion, though. What's drying time in cold temps like for that?

[jrm27]

Bump for aesthetics and other questions:

I have some well-loved brototypes (original pair, actually) that have been ninja'd. They've seen ~150 days and have some edge damage. Instead of marking my left and right skis, I wanted to do something a bit more creative that would accomplish the same purpose, and put a graphic going over both skis. I've decided to go with the jolly roger. At the risk of sounding like the guy from newschoolers, I'm curious what the collective has to say about design ideas.

Currently they're flat black, with what seems like two layers of black--there are a few areas where the top coat came off. Additionally there are a bunch of hairline cracks from flexing. Basically the current paint job is shit, and I fear if I take off part of it I will have to sand the whole thing down completely and start from scratch. What I've done so far was to sand just the general area where I wanted to put the jolly roger.

Since I may have to sand the whole thing, I'm wondering about painting it white, with a black jolly roger. Yes, I know--not traditional. I can't visualize if it would look gay or cool in my head. Also, I'm not sure if the black paint after sanding will poke through the white.

Think I'm going to go with the fusion, though. What's drying time in cold temps like for that?

Well, I have been repainitng my volkls in my garage up in Vail where it has been plenty cold. I gave the fusion paint about 30 mins to dry in between coats. I think it would be dryer in about 15-20, but my general slowness in this entire process has kept it to 30 minutes or so. The secret is many many thin coats! Post of pics when you are done. I'd be stoked to see how it turns out.

[ShawnB]

Soooo, I've looked over this thread a number of times in preparation to do my own tart-job on the sticks, and the Krylon info and stuff is cool, but what I've been wondering is, why are people relying on just spray-on clearcoat to protect all their hard work?

That can't possibly work.

Lord knows, I don't know the answer, but the top sheet of skis is not paint, peeps. Is it vinyl? Printed plastic? Spats and the gang would know, but whatever it is, it's tough--and paint is not. So, if we're forced to use paint to customize our boards, there's got to be a better way to make the shit a little more scratch-resistant. Like a thick, yet flexible topcoat...

My guess is something like this:

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=38&

Anyone have experience with this kind of product? Surfer mags? Superstar Punani? Or anyone used any other roll-on exterior topcoat, like a marine-grade epoxy, etc.? The call is out for some maggots to drop some knowledge and serious science on us, yo.

Thanks.

[flip]

would look gay or cool

"or"?

it would look gay AND cool

[SponsoredByDuctTape]

Or anyone used any other roll-on exterior topcoat, like a marine-grade epoxy, etc.? The call is out for some maggots to drop some knowledge and serious science on us, yo.

Thanks.

Do you mean fiberglass resin, which some people use as a sealant? No science, but in my experience working with fiberglass resin on boats, it's not very flexible if at all. Dries pretty clear, but dries very hard. Plus, not sure how it would do in sub-zero temps.

[jrm27]

How would you spread that suff? I'd imagine with a brush you wouldn't end up with a smooth texture

[ShawnB]

Do you mean fiberglass resin, which some people use as a sealant? No science, but in my experience working with fiberglass resin on boats, it's not very flexible if at all.

Link given was for polyester resin.

TAP describes it as:

"A water clear, impact resistant, and UV stabilized polyester resin. When flexed, it resists cracking and crazing; it also resists damage from impact."

Marketed for surfboard coating. Product lit. describes "flooding" it on. I assume that means pouring a syrupy layer and letting it cure smooth and glossy... Sounds perfect for this app., but whaddoiknow... Hopefully expert peeps will chime in to yay or nay this shizz.

[SponsoredByDuctTape]

Link given was for polyester resin.

TAP describes it as:

"A water clear, impact resistant, and UV stabilized polyester resin. When flexed, it resists cracking and crazing; it also resists damage from impact."

Marketed for surfboard coating. Product lit. describes "flooding" it on. I assume that means pouring a syrupy layer and letting it cure smooth and glossy... Sounds perfect for this app., but whaddoiknow... Hopefully expert peeps will chime in to yay or nay this shizz.

Doh! Would've helped if I had clicked the link. Cracking and crazing is what you'd probably get from marine resin on skis. Try it out, let us know.

[mn_teleswede]

I definitely want to see how it turns out!

I have a pair of mint 190 big kahuna's (volkl explosives) with the ugly purple/green topsheets that might be my winter project before my CO trip in January.

I know some people in the automotive industry and i might see if they can put my skis in the paint booth with some high quality auto paint.

[ShawnB]

Pics please of the polyester resin coat: I definitely want to see how it turns out!

I think I'm gonna do what the dudeley-doods with the wood-grain contact paper are doin, but finish w/ the polyester resin for real prophylactic action. Sooo, I'll post some pics when I get on the stick and get this thing going.

I know some people in the automotive industry and i might see if they can put my skis in the paint booth with some high quality auto paint.

Um. I thought we'd established in the five pages of this thread that basically that shit doesn't work... which is why I posted in the first place. I was suggesting something -- anything -- else.

No disrespect, but run your ski edge down the fender of your car about 12 times, and lemme know how tough auto paint is. Seriously, no paint is really intended to stand up to direct impacts, let alone the grinding/shearing action of maggot-sharpened steel. So while you're totally right that baked-on auto paint is fer sure tougher than spray-on clearcoat, it's still just paint--a teeny tiny layer of not-too-tough / not very elastic stuff. There's gotta be something thicker; tougher; flexier; better. Hmmmm.

Peace,
-Shawn

[slim]

I now have a season and a half of beating the shit out of my legend pros and the Gonzo technique has held up as though the paint job was factory. No paint cracks or peeling. The top sheet of the ski has continued to chip away without causing the paint to peel. The paint job today doesn't look any different from the day I painted them

[mn_teleswede]

I
No disrespect, but run your ski edge down the fender of your car about 12 times, and lemme know how tough auto paint is. Seriously, no paint is really intended to stand up to direct impacts, let alone the grinding/shearing action of maggot-sharpened steel. So while you're totally right that baked-on auto paint is fer sure tougher than spray-on clearcoat, it's still just paint--a teeny tiny layer of not-too-tough / not very elastic stuff. There's gotta be something thicker; tougher; flexier; better. Hmmmm.

Normal auto paint- I agree. But, I was going to check into some of the other types- POR 15, a smooth finished truck liner, he does some pretty custom stuff- at the very least, he might have some ideas, etc.

No disrespect felt- comparing apples and oranges in my eyes

[ShawnB]

Normal auto paint- I agree. But, I was going to check into some of the other types- POR 15, a smooth finished truck liner, he does some pretty custom stuff- at the very least, he might have some ideas, etc.

No disrespect felt- comparing apples and oranges in my eyes

Ah. I just re-read and I gotcha. Cool. If yer not worried about clear coating some underlying pattern or custom paint job, then the direction you're going (and Slim went) totally makes sense--lotsa super-tough opaque products out there--some glossy like POR's Hardnose series and some textured like Slim's rubberized coating (awesome to hear that's turning out bombproof, BTW Slim).

AND, that POR reference might have been helpful even for clearcoats: The POR people make 2 clear topcoat products:

Pelucid - crystal clear & won't crack, but apparently not exterior-rated

Glisten PC - clear, flexy, and tough as shit, they say.

Downside? Glisten PC is damn pricey. But overall sounds as good or mebbe better than the polyester resin, with all of its attendant unknowns (thickness; weight [seriously! thick shit might add up to a lot..]; application method, etc.).

Anyway, from JTrue's latest post, it's clear that those of us wanting to do the woodgrain or other custom look are gonna need a much better clearcoat than what he used. So now we've got some serious candidates. Very cool.

Great stuff. Thanks all.

[mn_teleswede]

The regular POR paints that cure harder when exposed to moisture first caught my eye and then the Glisten after that. But now that i think about it- i could save some $$ by doing a paint job with Fusion and then having then apply the Glisten over the top of that.

Interesting .... Lot's of possibilities... Many options . . . . . . . . .

THe question is- do i pay to do a test pair first?

[mn_teleswede]

Talked to the auto painter that i know and he has not had much success with spraying POR products- although he has only used the black for frames, axes and such. He has had issues with getting an even coat from wha ti gather- IMHO.

[jrm27]

is there a way to apply that POR stuff at home? I've got my skis ready to finish, and I'd love something more durable like this!

[Dromond]

New paint for the Pow+:




(x-post from the Powsplatapus thread)

[Squatch]

New paint for the Pow+:

wow...speechless.

[jrm27]

that looks great! Did you put a clear top coat on that or anything?

[Dromond]

that looks great! Did you put a clear top coat on that or anything?

Krylon Fusion black base coat. Acrylic white paint on top. Then some Krylon glossy clear coat. It didn't come out too glossy but I think I'm ok with that. I would suggest something else for a clear coat if you want it to really shine. I just wanted something to help keep the white paint from chipping. The white went on pretty thick and uneven as you might guess.