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11-18-2008, 09:19 AM #1Registered User
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- Sep 2008
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- 23
How well does the do it yourself split board kit work?
Fould a snow Mullet 72 for cheap was thinking of buying it for a conversion.
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11-18-2008, 09:22 AM #2
I'm curious about this as well. My snowboarding friends are tired of trying to keep up with me on snowshoes and are too cheap to buy a splitboard. We were gonna order the kits and I was going to cut their boards for them.
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11-18-2008, 09:24 AM #3
I converted a 169 K2 Eldo (early style, traditional sandwich construction, not cap) over 10 years ago with the Voile kit, still working fine.
Things to consider: How laterally stiff is the board you are starting with? My experience was that the board lost some of it's lateral stiffness. I started out with a pretty stout board, so no big deal.
Sealing the core. Make sure you seal the cut side of the board (exposed core) very well. If memory serves, Voile suggests varathane? I put on 8 coats making sure that each successive coat was completely dry to the touch.
I should note that I hired a friend who is a finish carpenter to cut the board for me.
For whatever reason, saws and me = straight lines notLast edited by AlpenChronicHabitual; 11-18-2008 at 09:34 AM.
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11-18-2008, 09:28 AM #4
I wonder about the durability of the cutline where there isn't a metal edge.
Does a metal edge on the inside have any advantage?It’s the places you ride that are special, not you riding there.”
All stunts performed without a net!
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11-18-2008, 09:36 AM #5
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11-18-2008, 09:43 AM #6
http://splitboard.com/talk/
lots of info hereI don't hunt because the word hunting infers the probability of failure. JOhNGchrist goes killing.
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11-18-2008, 09:52 AM #7
The cut line on my eldo has some wear but it's minimal.
When I'm skinning I have the edges facing in. The biggest issue I have with traversing is that I use a Clicker set up and the boots do not offer much in the way of lateral stiffness to help engage the edge when the going gets steep. To get around this I went to a boot with an external high back and use a power strap to go around that and the upper cuff.
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11-18-2008, 10:51 AM #8Registered User
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
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- Calgary
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- 1,888
Monk did a sweet job on his banana hammock, looks like a really fun set-up, check it out.http://tetongravity.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=28
One more thing, TECH TALK JONGS!!!
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11-18-2008, 10:58 AM #9
my board is with monk right now, I'll let everyone know how it turns out, but from the look of that banana hammock I'm not worried one bit
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11-18-2008, 10:59 AM #10
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11-18-2008, 12:43 PM #11snow??? snow???
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
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- 21
I've seen issues with the verathane on the cut edge cracking as it freezes and the board flexes. I have avoided this problem on my split Canyon with regular/simple wood core by doing without the laquer/verathane and just waxing the exposed wood, letting it soak and waxing it again a few times. Not quite bomb-proof, but its held up just fine for several seasons now. Other than that issue, the Voile kit is pretty solid.
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11-18-2008, 12:56 PM #12
Is this Monks? Customsplitboards.com in PC
You can get an inside edge with these guys.
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11-18-2008, 01:26 PM #13
make sure you start with a stiff board. i split a 170 atomic don sr. that was very stiff to start. it lost some stiffness, but still was fine for riding.
the one thing that i don't like about the voile kit is you have to be very sure that you binding mounts are were you want them. i feel like i drilled mine too far back. while it is fine for powder. i like a little more centered stance. yes i could re-drill, but i would have to find another template (as the kit only comes with one set.)
also, personally i much prefer a normal snowboard (or trust, i have seen a friend of mine pull the binding mounts right out of the board. he fixed this by t-bolting the binding mounts, thus making the board heavier). so i found that the only real advantage was on really long approacheswhatever I feel like i what to do!
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11-18-2008, 01:48 PM #14
I would suggest the use of a marine epoxy for sealing the sidewalls, I have never done this but have made some skis. West systems has an easy no brainer one. The use of a sealer for use on dead and rotting wood might be an option also, makes the wood harder.
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11-18-2008, 02:06 PM #15
the guys on splitboard have talked a bunch about some canadian plumbers epoxy that's supposed to be the best.
I'm looking to do this in the next month or so- how long does it typically take to do? at this point I'm thinking a half a day or a day, am I way off base?gnarstache.com - the best daily deals on the web... with mustaches.
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11-18-2008, 02:40 PM #16
Just wanted to reiterate:
1) Cut the fucker right down the middle and make sure it is straight
2) Make sure you are comfortable with where you mount your bindings, cause they aren't fun to move
Other than that, it works great
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11-18-2008, 04:10 PM #17
i cut a GNU riders choice 161.5 and it came out pretty nice. some tips:
1) put masking tape where you are going to cut so that the board doesn't "splinter"
2) set up a straight edge jig to guide your saw to make it perfectly straight
3) grind out notches in the tip and tail rail with a dremel or fine angle grinder before cutting
4) I didn't use a rail on the inside edge, just a flexible marne epoxy. Do it in very thin layers and let it soak into the wood. 6 thin layers is a lot better than 2 thicker layers.
5) i have heard of people pucks ejecting when using the ski mount style screws. to prevent this i used T-nuts for the pucks as well as the mounting brackets. Then patch the base where the holes are.
6) get a set of spark r&d bindings. they shit all over the voile pucks and your own binings. Using these binding you loose less lateral stiffness.
7) laugh at your slowshoe friends.
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11-18-2008, 06:09 PM #18
T-Nut.
Period.
There is no other method that will hold adequately.Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
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11-18-2008, 06:42 PM #19
My partner's is a home job on a new Arbor, probably 6 years ago. It's sealed with epoxy, was done by a carpenter friend. Everything is holding up well and works great.
Agree on the make sure it's solid and stiff board beforehand.
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11-18-2008, 07:08 PM #20
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