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  1. #2126
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    After seeing a bootfitter and some DIY I found the best way to improve my fit is by adding foam in the red area. With 2x 5mm pads of dense foam my heel is locked in and also the flex of the boot is greatly improved. The stiff foam in that area does not work that well touring. I have good dorsiflexion range so I rarely use risers. This ends up packing the foam fairly quick. Any ideas what else I can use to take up space in the area that flexes better than foam?


    Attachment 416871
    some form of gel or silicone type pad instead?
    what's orange and looks good on hippies?
    fire

    rails are for trains
    If I had a dollar for every time capitalism was blamed for problems caused by the government I'd be a rich fat film maker in a baseball hat.

    www.theguideshut.ca

  2. #2127
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
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    21,774
    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    After seeing a bootfitter and some DIY I found the best way to improve my fit is by adding foam in the red area. With 2x 5mm pads of dense foam my heel is locked in and also the flex of the boot is greatly improved. The stiff foam in that area does not work that well touring. I have good dorsiflexion range so I rarely use risers. This ends up packing the foam fairly quick. Any ideas what else I can use to take up space in the area that flexes better than foam?


    Attachment 416871
    so you have added 10mm of foam and feels good but maybe a bit more? a size smaller boot and/or a lower volume boot?

    and a more supportive/thicker footbed?


  3. #2128
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,109
    The mercury boots were great for a few years, then they got slack. I went to see a highly regarded boot fitter in van. He agreed I have no place in a smaller length boot. He added a bunch of foam around my heels. That pushed my foot forward and I ended up with a few black toes. I ripped everything off and added padding on the instep. That worked a for a while. Then that foam seemed to pack so I added the other 5mm. Foam doesn't work with how much I flex my boots touring. I am looking for something that is flexy but dense, like waxman suggested "gel or silicone type pad". Any ideas where I can source such pads?

    Raising the foot with a thicker footbed makes my bunions cranky. Raising just the heel does not work for me. I used to use red superfeet but I switched to sole.

    Not having pressure where the arrow points really messes with my skiing. The boot is(or it seems?) considerably flexier without the instep padding.

  4. #2129
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    THOR-Foothills
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    5,928

    the answer to "WTF is wrong with my boots?"

    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    The mercury boots were great for a few years, then they got slack. I went to see a highly regarded boot fitter in van. He agreed I have no place in a smaller length boot. He added a bunch of foam around my heels. That pushed my foot forward and I ended up with a few black toes. I ripped everything off and added padding on the instep. That worked a for a while. Then that foam seemed to pack so I added the other 5mm. Foam doesn't work with how much I flex my boots touring. I am looking for something that is flexy but dense, like waxman suggested "gel or silicone type pad". Any ideas where I can source such pads?

    .
    What about a mouse pad?


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    It doesn't matter if you're a king or a little street sweeper...
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  5. #2130
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Maine Coast
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    So I bought a pair of Lange rs off gearswap. They came with 3mm boot sole plates. I was not familiar with them, but apparently they are designed to minimize boot wear. The plates are already showing some signs of wear. My preference is to remove them and fill holes with gflex; I have plenty on hand. My concern is if with so many holes if the boot sole is weakened. I probably could source another set of p lates, but again not familiar with them. Concerned about hitting holes exactly right second time. Even though just 3mm I would rather not have any extra lift.

    Thoughts?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #2131
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    May 2007
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    The Right Coast
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    I assume the toes/heels were routed to DIN spec to accommodate the lifter plates. Think you’re probably stuck with getting a new set.


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  7. #2132
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    May 2007
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    The Right Coast
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    the answer to "WTF is wrong with my boots?"

    I assume the toes/heels were routed to DIN spec to accommodate the lifter plates. Think you’re probably stuck with getting a new set.

    Very common for race boots, provides height and protects sole/canting.


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  8. #2133
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    2,500
    Quote Originally Posted by cat in january View Post
    So I bought a pair of Lange rs off gearswap. They came with 3mm boot sole plates. I was not familiar with them, but apparently they are designed to minimize boot wear. The plates are already showing some signs of wear. My preference is to remove them and fill holes with gflex; I have plenty on hand. My concern is if with so many holes if the boot sole is weakened. I probably could source another set of p lates, but again not familiar with them. Concerned about hitting holes exactly right second time. Even though just 3mm I would rather not have any extra lift.

    Thoughts?

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	427292
    try and find the same lifters (sorry i don't recognize those) and swap them out
    what's orange and looks good on hippies?
    fire

    rails are for trains
    If I had a dollar for every time capitalism was blamed for problems caused by the government I'd be a rich fat film maker in a baseball hat.

    www.theguideshut.ca

  9. #2134
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    Oct 2009
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    Maine Coast
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    Yeah I have been doing the google thing and not coming up with a match. Sounds like I am committed to keeping with plates

  10. #2135
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    Jan 2020
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    Danby
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    1,490
    As Bennett said, you are SOL. Those definitely got routered by 3mm on top of the toe and heel. If you look on the top of the toe and heel lug you will see the marks. Just get a new set of 3mm lifters. That’s a really common thing in a race shop.

    And this place is honestly the only place on the planet besides new schoolers where people try to get as flat as possible on a ski. It doesn’t even make sense in terms of physics. Leverage and lift is a friend when using a ski to the fullest of its potential.

  11. #2136
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    Dec 2005
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    2,500
    what's orange and looks good on hippies?
    fire

    rails are for trains
    If I had a dollar for every time capitalism was blamed for problems caused by the government I'd be a rich fat film maker in a baseball hat.

    www.theguideshut.ca

  12. #2137
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    Oct 2009
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    Maine Coast
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    Thanks guys appreciate the input

  13. #2138
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    Dec 2009
    Posts
    501
    Any idea how I can get my hands on a Nordica Crocodile?

    https://issuu.com/snowsport_pl/docs/...8_canada_fin/8

  14. #2139
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    Jan 2017
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    on the banks of Fish Creek
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    that's one sweet tool!

  15. #2140
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    Dec 2010
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    西 雅 圖
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    4,832
    Looks like different screw pattern. If it doesn't work out, shoot me a PM and I'll sell you a pair of last season's 26.5 RS 130 cheap.

  16. #2141
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    1,834

    the answer to "WTF is wrong with my boots?"

    So this is what throws me for a loop bootfitting. I fit either the Mach 130 LV or RS130 LV with MY formed Intuition Plug Wraps (low volume) THE SAME as the above boots in MV with STOCK liners, all with the same my formed footbeds.

    Obviously the answer depends on what liners I plan to use but in theory, the LVs with formed intuitions should be better than the MVs with stock liners. Correct me if I’m wrong.

    Also, I had some Atomic Prof liners formed last year but because they only fill around the ankles, I felt they were too high volume around the rest of the foot. This is the only foam liners I have experience with so do most foam liners (or even Zipfit) fit more like my low volume Intuition or more medium volume like a stock?

    Edit: to answer my own question, the stock liners will pack out some while the formed Intuition will not. Still curious to know from the more experienced fitters if foam inject liners and Zipfits tend to be thinner and want a closer fitting shell.
    Last edited by robnow; 09-29-2022 at 10:07 PM.

  17. #2142
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    47
    Wondering if anyone here has experience with the pivot bolt (not sure if that is the correct term) repeatedly breaking. I have a pair of older technica mach1 mv 130s (probably 100+ days on them) and I broke the ankle pivot bolt 3x last season. Not sure if it's just a wear issue, and it's time to get new boots or if something else could be going on. I would go through and tighten the bolts a couple times, but definitely didn't remember to do it before every day.

  18. #2143
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    Dec 2010
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    西 雅 圖
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    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    So this is what throws me for a loop bootfitting. I fit either the Mach 130 LV or RS130 LV with MY formed Intuition Plug Wraps (low volume) THE SAME as the above boots in MV with STOCK liners, all with the same my formed footbeds.

    Obviously the answer depends on what liners I plan to use but in theory, the LVs with formed intuitions should be better than the MVs with stock liners. Correct me if I’m wrong.

    Also, I had some Atomic Prof liners formed last year but because they only fill around the ankles, I felt they were too high volume around the rest of the foot. This is the only foam liners I have experience with so do most foam liners (or even Zipfit) fit more like my low volume Intuition or more medium volume like a stock?

    Edit: to answer my own question, the stock liners will pack out some while the formed Intuition will not. Still curious to know from the more experienced fitters if foam inject liners and Zipfits tend to be thinner and want a closer fitting shell.
    The people who buy Injected PU liners and Zipfits almost always buy much narrower boots (92mm to 98mm lasts) because they realize that having the shell closer to your foot means better skiing. If they have a bootfitter they trust, they are confident the boot that crushes their foot in the shop with no shell work and unmolded/foamed liners can be made to work and will be a much better performance option with some time and effort.

    Stock liners with few exceptions normally have three different foam laminates inside, with the innermost being 3-4mm of very soft material. This is to get people to feel comfortable in the shop and buy the boot. The fact that your LV boots with cooked Intuitons and a stock MV boot feel similarly snug in the shop won't be true after even a few days skiing them, you will be swimming in the MV's.

    If you feel the front of the Atomic Professionals is too roomy, the next step is to go narrower, i.e. Redster Club Sport or STI - sorry, no GripWalk or even rubber soles, though.

    PS Every liner packs out some, but an Intuition that's a tight fit before molding packs out much less, since the foam is compressed after molding and it's all quality EVA with no soft inner layer.

  19. #2144
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    2,109
    Quote Originally Posted by TexasGortex View Post
    Any idea how I can get my hands on a Nordica Crocodile?

    https://issuu.com/snowsport_pl/docs/...8_canada_fin/8
    Any progress? Financial independence is out of reach. Boot punching independence is good enough for me.

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

  20. #2145
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    501
    None. Being friendly with a Nordica rep or knowing a shop going out of business/getting new equipment is probably your best best.

    You might want to be financially independent regardless, their closest competitor (Blademaster) starts at around $750 so I don’t expect it to be cheap.

  21. #2146
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,759
    Thread bump as another reminder to get your boots dialed now, before boot fitters are backed up three weeks for punches.


    I jjust home molded some Tour Wraps for my ZGTP and it went really well. Gonna wear them around the office this week but probably have to bring them in for a little more shell massaging.

  22. #2147
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    Dec 2010
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    西 雅 圖
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    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    Thread bump as another reminder to get your boots dialed now, before boot fitters are backed up three weeks for punches.
    You would prefer that your bootfitter did the punches with you in the shop, so you can provide real-time feedback. Hard to trust that they will remember the contours of your feet three weeks down the road or even if the same fitter does the work. I'm already booked out 2--3 weeks, FWIW.

  23. #2148
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Golden
    Posts
    537
    Booked solid for 3 weeks? Only one bootfitter? I’ve never seen any shop take more than 2 days to do any bootfitting job. Even in whistler at Christmas.

    Not slagging, just hard to imagine.

  24. #2149
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Lost in the PNWet
    Posts
    200
    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenBC View Post
    Booked solid for 3 weeks? Only one bootfitter? I’ve never seen any shop take more than 2 days to do any bootfitting job. Even in whistler at Christmas.

    Not slagging, just hard to imagine.
    Greg is such an experienced and high quality bootfitter that his shop charges a premium to get fit by him specifically. The fitting itself takes the normal amount of time, three weeks is the current wait time to get him.

  25. #2150
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    84
    I've got some salomon s/max 130s that a shop completely butchered the haglund's heel grind on a year ago. I didn't question it at the time cuz typically there's plenty of material there to work with (see Lange RX). Unfortunately, the S/MAX plastic is super thin there to begin with and i wouldn't be surprised if if there's less than a mm left now. very much translucent with a flashlight on the heel.
    I like the boots overall, but my heel 100% needs much more of a punch for them to be skiable.

    am I wrong in thinking that the heel isn't structural and we can just punch it the rest of the way and when we blow through, just patch with something like JB weld?
    if not, it's time to part ways and give up on them.

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