Page 63 of 105 FirstFirst ... 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 ... LastLast
Results 1,551 to 1,575 of 2618
  1. #1551
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    1,498
    I was told (in this thread I believe) to use contact cement. Can confirm that it works well.

  2. #1552
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,990
    Aquaseal or shoegoo works for me


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Gravity always wins...

  3. #1553
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,224
    Quote Originally Posted by North View Post
    I was told (in this thread I believe) to use contact cement. Can confirm that it works well.

    correct


  4. #1554
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC burbs
    Posts
    4,193
    Thanks y'all. I have aquaseal, might try that first and if it fails I'll grab some contact cement

  5. #1555
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    674
    I’m sure aqua seal will work but the advantage of contact cement is that you don’t have clamp it while it sets up

  6. #1556
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC burbs
    Posts
    4,193
    Quote Originally Posted by turnfarmer View Post
    I’m sure aqua seal will work but the advantage of contact cement is that you don’t have clamp it while it sets up
    Hadn't thought of that, I only ever use Aquaseal to cover holes and reinforce worn spots on gloves. No experience actually bonding things together

  7. #1557
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    17,978
    Contact cement is something everyone should have around the house. That shit will fix almost anything. But, be aware that once it has dried and it's time to attach, you get one shot to stick things together. There are no redos with contact cement.

  8. #1558
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    674
    I use contact cement daily, high dollar stuff in quart or gallon sizes, but for small jobs this works well-

    https://www.acehardware.com/departme...nd-epoxy/10818

    It used to come with a brush, but I think they changed it to a stupid plastic strip that is useless for applying.

    Buy a 50 cent rosin brush, cut to length with a wire cutters and slip over the plastic post.

    https://www.acehardware.com/departme...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    Make sure it is tight when not in use, or it will dry out. It may dry out anyway.
    A little vaseline or lip balm on the bottle threads will make reopening easier.

  9. #1559
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    1,901
    I use the hot glue gun for all my clothing/backpack repairs, emergency ski core shot ghetto ptexing, filling unused ski binding screw holes, and, ski boot liner related mods and repairs these days. It's my biscuit and I'll risk it.

    Experimenting with the hot glue gun for liner mods and repairs can be high risk/high reward and I've wrecked parts of the liners and had to repair the repairs...and come to think of it, had to repair the repairs of the repairs.

    For projects such as cutting off liner tongues to add a custom mod talus area wrap wings or full top of forefoot dorsal pad: Unintended emergent issues like new internal pressure points due to hard bumps from the cooled glue had to be addressed...I had no clue how sensitive areas of the talus bone were to even the slightest imperfections in the cooled glue shape...had bruising/swelling for days after the latest mod to the liner tongue in that area testing out a new dorsal pad attachment with wings that extended laterally on both sides of the ankle in an effort to lock down the foot with more fit tension. Solution to that problem was a quick blast with the hot air gun to ever so slightly soften the glue without heating it to liquid/full melt, reinserting foot into boot and buckling. That process remolded the area for proper shaping. Trial and error can truly be hurt bizness. Anyway, I digress....

    Advantages:
    - The glue cools pretty fast to almost instantly if a bag of ice or snow is placed over the area of interest...depending, of course, on the thermal conductivity of the material under the bag of cooling agent.
    - Repairs can be 'undone' and changed if desired, through application of careful heat with heat gun and gentle prying apart of layers

    Disadvantages - If you wanna rebake liners in a convection oven, the repair area glue will melt and attached pieces will fall off, potentially fall down through the cracks in the rack of a convection oven, for example, and may hit the heating element, melt, potentially catch fire and burn yer house down. Ask me how I found this out. No, this scenario didn't present itself in real life, but the potential is there, so I thought i'd mention it. My experiment fail just caused a bit of smoke in the back yard...outside bake, no house at stake.

    Given how I cut apart my intuitions, modded the pieces and glued them back together again, this disadvantage sux...partial solution? Don't do the full rebake; carefully heat internally targeted areas with hot air gun to reduce the amount of heat reaching the glued together sections...this seemed to work as intended without the liners completely falling apart.
    Last edited by swissiphic; 04-14-2020 at 08:26 AM.
    Master of mediocrity.

  10. #1560
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    not there
    Posts
    1,558
    I need a lil input from you guys.

    My boot salomon mtn lab with intuition powerwrap no insoles. 1.5fingers shell fit/touching left and right
    My foot wide forefoot (106mm) highish instep normal heel

    The last months i spent many days in my boot and tours/hours gotten longer. sometimes 7h of walking around etc, 6000ft vert etc

    i developed some pain in my left pinkytoe&4th toe area the last 5 weeks. usually half wayup touring. when fatigue kicks in.
    and i gets more and more with each step : (
    i assume my left leg/foot gets tired and then my wheight/balance shifts
    also the liner could have packed out alot from spring heat and using it alot so there is less support.

    to help i started playing around: i shaved some stuff of the bootboard, to make more room. did not help.
    so replaced the bootboard with a newone again from oldboot. (yes it is my 2ndpair of mtnlabs, thought never change a winning team)

    last week i put in a thin footbed and did a test tour only 2000ft vert it was ok for the toe area but some other pressure points.

    yesterday i took my sidas comformable insole out my lange rs and stuffed inside. had to remove it on the uphill it was way to tight. this was on a 5500ft tour with loooong approach.


    so tomorrow i have access to a heat molding oven and toe caps.

    what are your thoughts. mold it with sidas or without as usual

    this is my first year going for long big lines so i never encountered this problems before

    a different boot would be the solution, i guess ,but breaking in a boot in late spring doesnt make sense to me.


    sorry for the confusing write up thats how my brain gets the message out and i am not a native speaker so sorry for that too.

  11. #1561
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,224
    1) please convert fingers to mm and what is the shell fit in that?

    2) Does a more supportive footbed help? (NOT thicker or thinner) just more stuff under the arch

    3) do thicker or thinner socks help?


    Also answer the other 10 questions, to give us more info


  12. #1562
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    not there
    Posts
    1,558
    1) please convert fingers to mm and what is the shell fit in that?
    in length have got 25mm space shell fit - left and right i can feel the shell touching

    2) Does a more supportive footbed help? (NOT thicker or thinner) just more stuff under the arch
    so far i always skied intuition powerraps without footbed. i tried the custom ones for half a tour but need to remold liner... that is maybe my question. should i use a hard custom foodbed in a intuition liner for touring???? yes no???

    3) do thicker or thinner socks help?
    i use pretty much always the same thickness of ski socks. (icebreaker - mons royal - etc) dont have thick ones. could try an ordinary sock

    Also answer the other 10 questions, to give us more info

    1) You just have one, thin, clean ski sock in the boots
    yes
    2) You just have a sock in the boot? (no thermals, jewelry, etc)
    yes
    3) Your toe nails are trimmed short?
    yes
    4) They are YOUR boots and not borrowed?
    yes
    5) You are just skiing in your ski boots? (not walking, driving etc)?
    no, i walk a fare bit on asphalt roads or forest trails
    6) You dry your liners out at night either with a dryer or remove liners?
    yes - yes, just a ventilator no heat
    7) The left liner, the left footbed are in the left boot and this is on the left foot?
    left liner in left boat on left foot..... no footbed
    8) You are loosening the buckles if you are not skiing (while standing, on lifts, etc)
    yes while on the lift of while skinning or walking
    9) You are not skiing all day in new boots? They need time to break in
    no shells and liners are both 6month old and heavy used

    10) Buckles are pointing to the outside?
    yes


    So your boots are the right size, AND you are doing everything else right, but still the boots are not 100% right. These questions will help a boot fitter will have a better understanding of the problem and can start to help you. Better Or Worse = (BOW)

    1) BOW with the buckles tighter or looser?
    same
    2) BOW with thinner or thicker socks?
    no info , guess the same, not sure
    3) BOW with any footbeds (custom, stock, none, etc)?
    tried all three methods the last week none worked, i maybe have to mold liners with custom footbed

    4) BOW skiing, standing, or feet un-weighted (hanging off a chair lift)?
    the pain eases a bit while having a summit break
    5) BOW thru out the day (and when does the pain start?)
    after 3000ft vert
    6) BOW on the first vs the third day?
    cant say this is a new pain just started a month ago
    7) BOW on harder or easier terrain?
    cant say
    8) BOW with the power straps (velcro straps) tighter or looser?
    it is in the toebox and skinning....
    9) BOW if you do any particular movements, or actions?
    cant say
    10) Any medical, health, or weight changes since you used them last?
    not that i am aware off

  13. #1563
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,224
    hum, hard to say.

    my spidie sense is the boot is too big (based on 25mm shell fit) Wondering if the foot is moving a bit, and cramping due to toes holding on/clenching? See if a thicker sock (or a liner sock + reg sock) is BOW.

    but 25mm shell fit is a red flag for sure


  14. #1564
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,364
    Quote Originally Posted by nordekette View Post
    My boot salomon mtn lab with intuition powerwrap no insoles. 1.5fingers shell fit/touching left and right
    My foot wide forefoot (106mm) highish instep normal heel
    Have you heat molded this shell with foam over the areas that get pressure? Have you punched this boot for extra width where it hurts?

    25mm shell fit is on the long side, though maybe OK as a pure touring boot, but if your foot is really 106mm wide and you are in an unmodified 98mm shell (~100mm in 27.5) that's probably why it starts to hurt.

  15. #1565
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,224
    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    Have you heat molded this shell with foam over the areas that get pressure? Have you punched this boot for extra width where it hurts?

    25mm shell fit is on the long side, though maybe OK as a pure touring boot, but if your foot is really 106mm wide and you are in a 98mm shell (~100mm in 27.5) that's probably why it starts to hurt.
    yup, also a good call.


  16. #1566
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    not there
    Posts
    1,558
    Thanks guys. This shell is unmodified. I here your concerns. It could be cramping from holding the foot in place.

  17. #1567
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,364
    Quote Originally Posted by nordekette View Post
    This shell is unmodified.
    You don't have to live with it the way it comes from the factory, but you'll have to find a skilled bootfitter to change the shape. Not sure where you live, but that tends to be harder some places than others. Not only is the boot fairly narrow by industry standards, but the toebox is somewhat pointy - the good news is the Salomon Grilamid shell is easy to work with. If you are on your second pair, and were fine on shorter tours, it sounds like you won't have to do that much.

  18. #1568
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    not there
    Posts
    1,558
    thanks gregL and mntlion for your help. i will keep the mtnlabs for a powder/short-tour oriented ski setup.
    i am in for some lightweight ski and boot in the future.
    this is going to be tough and i will need a bootfitter.
    i tried some scarpa f1 (2020) and gave my self 1h in them in a big sports store. i started feeling the lip on the instep and woried about this. and left them behind. my feet are super ugly : ) sooo

    peace and all the best health to you and your close ones
    Last edited by nordekette; 04-21-2020 at 02:00 PM.

  19. #1569
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    158
    OK, I was posting somewhere else but this seems to be the place.

    Starting to think my Panterra 120s might be too voluminous/wide. To get the control I want I'm maxing out the buckles, and late in the day it just doesn't feel like enough. I've been to several boot fitters with them and the problem persists (everything else about them is fine), but now that i'm putting my foot in just the shell, I have a some side to side slop (and maybe 1.5-2 pencils worth of shell in the back). I'm on the grad student budget, so getting new boots is gonna suck, especially since I need some tour boots for the first time.

    If i have side to side slop, i'm guessing that means I need to go to a narrower last. I'm in a 26.5 now.

    Is it possible to get a tour boot that skis as well/better as my 120s downhill? Like a 130 flex that actually fits my feet? I'm not looking for a light boot.

    Can I take my custom foot beds and put them in a new boot?

    It would be a miracle if some Lupo HDs could be my only boot, or something that skis that well Wondering if I should try them.

    Thanks.

    1) BOW with the buckles tighter or looser? Better

    2) BOW with thinner or thicker socks? Thicker

    3) BOW with any footbeds (custom, stock, none, etc)? Better with footbeds

    4) BOW skiing, standing, or feet un-weighted (hanging off a chair lift)? better skiing, don't notice pressure points going down.

    5) BOW thru out the day (and when does the pain start?) No pain really, just lose of control late.

    6) BOW on the first vs the third day? Not sure

    7) BOW on harder or easier terrain? Need more control initiating turns.

    8) BOW with the power straps (velcro straps) tighter or looser? Way better when I crank the booster

    9) BOW if you do any particular movements, or actions? Not sure

    10) Any medical, health, or weight changes since you used them last? No

  20. #1570
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,224
    quick answer:

    your boots are to big, in some direction. Sounds like a few people have tried to help, limited results, best to start again

    start with a smaller volume boot, and maybe a size down, yes you can find a boot that walks and skis well, but again fit is key.

    please translate pencils to mm


  21. #1571
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    158
    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    quick answer:

    your boots are to big, in some direction. Sounds like a few people have tried to help, limited results, best to start again

    start with a smaller volume boot, and maybe a size down, yes you can find a boot that walks and skis well, but again fit is key.

    please translate pencils to mm
    I have about 2cm of room behind my foot, lightly touching the forward part of the shell with. Shell is a 26.5 Panterra. I've been told that the panterra runs long, voluminous. Measured my last, it's about 100mm (using two 2x4s, measuring the diff between them)

  22. #1572
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,990
    Ok, relatively simple question i think-
    I’m trying some Alien RS, and besides needing more forefoot width, i need better heel hold. With all the buckles closed I’ve got too much room around my heel and ankle, enough to feel a fair bit of lift. Is a butterfly pad going to be worth a try?
    I put some layers of scrap ptex under my back half of my custom footbeds to take up some vertical room and get more out of the boa closure on the forefoot,
    and it didn’t change much. My tlt6’s with old intuitions feel locked down by comparison. I know filling space in a large shell is tough, any pro tips to get my heel to stay put on long tours?

    I was super excited for the my first fresh touring boot in 7 years but its going to take some work...


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Gravity always wins...

  23. #1573
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    229
    Quote Originally Posted by riff View Post
    Ok, relatively simple question i think-
    I’m trying some Alien RS, and besides needing more forefoot width, i need better heel hold. With all the buckles closed I’ve got too much room around my heel and ankle, enough to feel a fair bit of lift. Is a butterfly pad going to be worth a try?
    I put some layers of scrap ptex under my back half of my custom footbeds to take up some vertical room and get more out of the boa closure on the forefoot,
    and it didn’t change much. My tlt6’s with old intuitions feel locked down by comparison. I know filling space in a large shell is tough, any pro tips to get my heel to stay put on long tours?

    I was super excited for the my first fresh touring boot in 7 years but its going to take some work...


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I have very low-volume heels/ankles and started using EzeeFit ankle sleeves this season to take up extra room in my boots. They work incredibly well, providing more secure and even pressure around the ankle compared with adding pads to the outside of the liner. There are a few thicknesses available, I think mine are the 2mm version.

    https://www.ezeefitsports.com/

  24. #1574
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,224
    Quote Originally Posted by riff View Post
    Ok, relatively simple question i think-
    I’m trying some Alien RS, and besides needing more forefoot width, i need better heel hold. With all the buckles closed I’ve got too much room around my heel and ankle, enough to feel a fair bit of lift. Is a butterfly pad going to be worth a try?
    I put some layers of scrap ptex under my back half of my custom footbeds to take up some vertical room and get more out of the boa closure on the forefoot,
    and it didn’t change much. My tlt6’s with old intuitions feel locked down by comparison. I know filling space in a large shell is tough, any pro tips to get my heel to stay put on long tours?

    I was super excited for the my first fresh touring boot in 7 years but its going to take some work...


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    1) what is the shell fit like for length?

    2) sounds like the wrong boot. can you try some more stuff on?


  25. #1575
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,364
    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    . . . sounds like the wrong boot. can you try some more stuff on?
    In the <1,000 gram touring boot class (but not a race boot), what else is there at the moment? I've been using the Dalbello Quantum Asolo Factory this spring, which might be a great option, but there are none to try on until next year and if anything the ankle and heel are roomier than the Alien RS. I am assuming the new F1 LT will fit the same as the Alien RS, but again not possible to try on yet. I think the Atomic Backland Carbon and Fischer Travers Carbon are a little snugger, but also hard to find to try on and a bit heavier. Not sure what buckles riff is talking about in the Scarpa - there are none. All you can do is adjust the Dyneema cord and/or crank the Boa.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •