Check Out Our Shop
Page 108 of 109 FirstFirst ... 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 LastLast
Results 2,676 to 2,700 of 2713

Thread: the answer to "WTF is wrong with my boots?"

  1. #2676
    Join Date
    Aug 2022
    Location
    mont saint marie
    Posts
    20
    thanks I also have another question, I have been going pretty aggressive with punching out a xt3 and it seems I cant get the plastic to hold a shape - it just regresses back every time I push on it. Am I doing something wrong or have I just hit the limit of how far this plastic will move? I would think more heat would be the answer but am not sure.

  2. #2677
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,443
    1) what is pretty aggressive in mm? depending on where on shell you should be able to get 5-8mm?

    2) you need heat and pressure. As you punch a larger area, you need to heat a larger area too, not just that point.

    3) leave it in the press longer to cool? or with snow on it/freezer?

    4) if you have to punch that big, is that the correct solution? or you chasing the wrong thing?


  3. #2678
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,490
    Quote Originally Posted by MacFive View Post
    thanks I also have another question, I have been going pretty aggressive with punching out a xt3 and it seems I cant get the plastic to hold a shape - it just regresses back every time I push on it. Am I doing something wrong or have I just hit the limit of how far this plastic will move? I would think more heat would be the answer but am not sure.
    It will hold a shape just fine, you aren't getting it hot enough. How are determining when it's time to punch?

  4. #2679
    Join Date
    Aug 2022
    Location
    mont saint marie
    Posts
    20
    1) what is pretty aggressive in mm? depending on where on shell you should be able to get 5-8mm?

    Im not sure how many mm exactly, but I think I have gone about 3mm out and 2mm forward at my big toe.

    3) leave it in the press longer to cool? or with snow on it/freezer?

    Ive been leaving it under tension but it always shrinks back 1mm or so im also in a garage where is pretty cold - I should note that im not using a press and am still using a foot mold that I showed a couple years ago.

    4) if you have to punch that big, is that the correct solution? or you chasing the wrong thing?

    I was thinking about this last night and I probably need to widen the outside of my foot (like 6th toe punch) rather than trying to get more length/width for my big toe


    To gregL Ive been determining heat by touching it to see if its hot, depending on how long I have been going at it for if the plastic gets shinny I consider it hot enough lol

  5. #2680
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,490
    Quote Originally Posted by MacFive View Post
    Ive been determining heat by touching it to see if its hot, depending on how long I have been going at it for if the plastic gets shinny I consider it hot enough lol
    The "frosted" Grilamid on the XT3 will get a bit shiny easily, that doesn't mean it's hot all the way through. If you're touching it on the inside and you can't hold your finger under the spot for a count of "one-thousand-one" it's pretty close, I tell our fitters to shoot for .5 second. I've punched XT3's (including my own pair) for an extra 12-15mm in width at the fifth metatarsals-fifth distal phalanges (my foot is 117mm wide and the boot was an LV 97mm in 26.5). FWIW, a real boot press makes a huge difference. If you want to learn how to do it, get a job at a shop with experienced bootfitters and work for peanuts for a couple years.

  6. #2681
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,490
    PS You should easily be able to punch for 5-6mm extra length at the big toe (usually "squaring" off the toe is as important as the length) but be wary about interfering with the toepiece lugs if you have long arms on the binding (i.e. STH2 or Shift are sometimes problems). Again, a real lever press and the right tooling is critical to achieving a good result. If you get it hot enough, you shouldn't have to leave it longer than it takes the plastic to cool to body temperature.

  7. #2682
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
    Posts
    15
    I’m thinking about downsizing my Alpine boots this season. I really like the foot beds I have now. If I cut them down to fit a smaller boot, is that a one-way trip or can I go back to using them in my current boots if I decide that downsizing wasn’t the right call?

    In my head, I figure that the arch does more to locate the footbed than the actual fit against the inside of the shoe, but custom insoles is kind of an expensive mistake to make.

  8. #2683
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,443
    Quote Originally Posted by skimeow View Post
    I’m thinking about downsizing my Alpine boots this season. I really like the foot beds I have now. If I cut them down to fit a smaller boot, is that a one-way trip or can I go back to using them in my current boots if I decide that downsizing wasn’t the right call?

    In my head, I figure that the arch does more to locate the footbed than the actual fit against the inside of the shoe, but custom insoles is kind of an expensive mistake to make.
    one way trip.

    trim 2-3mm from heel and 7-8 from toe

    Odds are the shop that is helping you with the boots can do this for you?


  9. #2684
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    206
    Quote Originally Posted by skimeow View Post
    I’m thinking about downsizing my Alpine boots this season. I really like the foot beds I have now. If I cut them down to fit a smaller boot, is that a one-way trip or can I go back to using them in my current boots if I decide that downsizing wasn’t the right call?

    In my head, I figure that the arch does more to locate the footbed than the actual fit against the inside of the shoe, but custom insoles is kind of an expensive mistake to make.
    They may be a bit short if you move them back but they will still locate properly under the foot in use. You will just have a slight gap at the front. But the toe can be rebuilt with some foam if you decide not to move forward with the downsize or just live with the slight gap.

  10. #2685
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
    Posts
    15
    Haha I’m getting mixed messages.

    I’ve got a good shop near the mountain but I’m a weekend warrior these days, so I gotta plan out my moves in advance.

  11. #2686
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Warm parts of the St. Vrain
    Posts
    2,817

    the answer to "WTF is wrong with my boots?"

    Quote Originally Posted by skimeow View Post
    Haha I’m getting mixed messages.

    I’ve got a good shop near the mountain but I’m a weekend warrior these days, so I gotta plan out my moves in advance.
    I had a debacle prolly 100 pages back that resulted in my insoles being about .75cm shorter than the liner and even my big toe.

    These are made of hard material I had to cut with a dremmel wheel and grind down, for reference. I had to grind the toe area flush to get rid of the lip.

    Even with so much hacking, they didn’t move around on me using pro tours I molded myself. They also don’t move around in my pro tongue, though, in that case, I had them molded at a fitter who noticed it and put in some tape.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    If we're gonna wear uniforms, we should all wear somethin' different!

  12. #2687
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    beaverhead county
    Posts
    5,599
    putting this here instead of starting another "what boot for me thread"

    been in Lupos the last 5 seasons and current pair of pro HDs for 4. love them for the most part but they are showing their age. i have limited options for trying shit on locally and want some guidance for where to start in my search for a successor. needs to be beefy as fuck with tech toes and ideally a walk mode but i don't tour enough anymore for this to be a deal breaker. have a bootfitter locally who i trust for punches and trust myself and have tools to do bootboard and instep mods but obviously prefer something that doesn't require a fuck ton of work.

    my feet: measure in around 278. high instep. high arch. wide forefoot. skinny ankle and heel.

    setup: 27.5 lupos with gara hv and wc booster. punches for sixth toes and proximal 5th mets. regular ol boot doc high arch footbeds. gone back and forth with heel wedges but since going to zips, i've scrapped them altogether.

    and this setup is near perfect. zips have eliminated almost all roominess in the heel and ankle. i could probably add a little more cork but whatev. still get some instep pressure later in the day and find myself unbuckling the middle buckle on the lift. love that rebound feel from the tongues but sometimes feel like i'm flexing through them when i go with a more forward stance.

    so far i've tried on the cabrio lv and cochise 130. cabrio was too roomy in the heels and just felt like a cheap piece of shit. cochise was much better in the heels but crushed my insteps and gave weird navicular pressure. xt3 140 really piques my interest. can anyone provide reference for instep and heel volume? what else should i go out of my way to try on? that ranger 130 looks cool. hawx maybe?
    swing your fucking sword.

  13. #2688
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    panhandle locdog
    Posts
    8,105
    XT3 has a higher instep and average heel pocket. If you’re used to a wide boot it’s gonna take a lot of punching to fit. It does ski really well for a hybrid boot. Walk mode can be finicky with aftermarket liners

  14. #2689
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    beaverhead county
    Posts
    5,599
    Quote Originally Posted by TAFKALVS View Post
    XT3 has a higher instep and average heel pocket. If you’re used to a wide boot it’s gonna take a lot of punching to fit. It does ski really well for a hybrid boot. Walk mode can be finicky with aftermarket liners
    what specifically about the walk mode is finicky with aftermarket liners?
    swing your fucking sword.

  15. #2690
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Olympic Valley, CA
    Posts
    68
    If the XT3 140 is like the XT3 Tour Pro, aftermarket liners tend to pull on an internal piece of plastic on the spine and flip the boot back to ski mode. I used to tour in the Tour Pro and was able to mostly fix the issue by covering the back of my GFT's with Gear Aid nylon repair tape which was smooth enough to usually not grab the plastic. Usually. My walk mode would still flip into ski mode periodically, which was a PITA.

    There are posts on here somewhere where people shared fixes. A few people attached a thin spoiler to the back of the cuff to keep the liner from rubbing against the mechanism. One guy posted a pic that showed how he fashioned a small piece of webbing with a snap to lock the walk/ski toggle to the top of his boot so it couldn't get pulled down.

  16. #2691
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,443
    sounds like the old system wroked, but worn out? can you find that shell again go from that point?

    I for the older krypton well, and the Nordica pro fits similar?

    but 3 prt shell, vs 2 prt shell skis different, so make sure that is OK for you


  17. #2692
    Join Date
    Aug 2022
    Location
    mont saint marie
    Posts
    20
    Quote Originally Posted by stealurface831 View Post
    xt3 140 really piques my interest. can anyone provide reference for instep and heel volume? what else should i go out of my way to try on? that ranger 130 looks cool. hawx maybe?
    My foot measures to 28.5 with a 115mm width, medium instep and skinny heel with haglunds, and aggressive toe taper (very prominent big toe).

    I am currently trying to fit into a 27.5 xt3 lv gw. I find the instep and heel to be fairly snug, while I do get some heel lift the cuff locks my leg in place really well. I have been able to get the width right (about 1mm wider than my foot), I have been struggling to get the toe shape right - mainly accommodating a tapered shape. But this is more an issue with not having good tools. I am pretty close to getting it right, I will report back when they fit.

  18. #2693
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    beaverhead county
    Posts
    5,599
    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    sounds like the old system wroked, but worn out? can you find that shell again go from that point?

    I for the older krypton well, and the Nordica pro fits similar?

    but 3 prt shell, vs 2 prt shell skis different, so make sure that is OK for you
    yeah, shells will probably be retired come end of season. been having a tough go of it tracking down a lupo pro hd and/or krypton ti. and now i'm just wondering if maybe the grass is greener in a 2 piece.
    Quote Originally Posted by MacFive View Post
    My foot measures to 28.5 with a 115mm width, medium instep and skinny heel with haglunds, and aggressive toe taper (very prominent big toe).

    I am currently trying to fit into a 27.5 xt3 lv gw. I find the instep and heel to be fairly snug, while I do get some heel lift the cuff locks my leg in place really well. I have been able to get the width right (about 1mm wider than my foot), I have been struggling to get the toe shape right - mainly accommodating a tapered shape. But this is more an issue with not having good tools. I am pretty close to getting it right, I will report back when they fit.
    good to hear bout overall fit. i'm skinnier in the forefoot and i'd bet the foam on the stock liners is a good bit thicker than the neoprene on my zips so that should give me some extra room right off the bat.

    do you happen to know your instep height? just want to get a data point.
    swing your fucking sword.

  19. #2694
    Join Date
    Aug 2022
    Location
    mont saint marie
    Posts
    20
    Quote Originally Posted by stealurface831 View Post
    do you happen to know your instep height? just want to get a data point.
    Just so you know the stock liners are very narrow in the forefoot. My instep is at most 295mm, I say at most just because I took a kinda rough measurement, so it might be smaller than that by about 5mm.

  20. #2695
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,490
    Quote Originally Posted by skimeow View Post
    I’m thinking about downsizing my Alpine boots this season. I really like the foot beds I have now. If I cut them down to fit a smaller boot, is that a one-way trip or can I go back to using them in my current boots if I decide that downsizing wasn’t the right call?
    Save the 10mm pieces you cut off the front and duct tape them back on if you decide not to downsize.

  21. #2696
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,490
    Quote Originally Posted by MacFive View Post
    Just so you know the stock liners are very narrow in the forefoot.
    You can stretch the liners by heating the Strobl sole enough to peel it back from the liner, stretching the side of the liner on a broom stick or something (we use a big aluminum dildo thing), then putting it back down before the glue cools completely. You should stretch the liner any time you punch for width, it almost always contributes to the problem.

  22. #2697
    Join Date
    Aug 2022
    Location
    mont saint marie
    Posts
    20
    How long and hot to heat mold lange xt3 free shells?

  23. #2698
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,490
    Quote Originally Posted by MacFive View Post
    How long and hot to heat mold lange xt3 free shells?
    The Lange XT3 shells (or any Lange shells) are not heat moldable in the sense that Atomic, Salomon or K2 shells are. If you need to change the shape, punch them.

  24. #2699
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,490
    **At our shop, K2, Atomic (if they say "Memory Fit") and Salomon (if they say "Custom Shell") shells go in the oven.
    Lange, Tecnica, Nordica and Dalbello do not, just the liners go on the heat stacks.
    The Salomon QST Pro was an exception, they said "Custom Shell" but weren't . . .
    You can throw any shell in the oven, and they feel better while warm, but whether they retain the new shape is another matter.

  25. #2700
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    656
    I'm rec race boot curious because all other stock LV boots still have too much volume. I have a super low instep. What would you all suggest? I've been cracking shells left and right the last couple of seasons and am currently in a S/Pro Alpha 130 with ZipFits. They're serviceable after adding a heal wedge + bontec shim. I'm a decent bootfitter, but my shop doesn't stock race boots anymore and I don't want to order a boot without a solid chance of being able to make it work, ideally by adding volume instead of trying to take up space.

    Sent from my SM-S926U using Tapatalk

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •