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  1. #1001
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    Quote Originally Posted by thechad View Post
    So length wise I have just under 1cm for a shell fit. How much room can be made in the toe box via punching before the boot deforms?
    3-5mm.

    plus you might get a bit more by making sure the heel is back in the heel pocket

    thinner socks

    more supportive footbed

    Email me at dave@fatskideals.com for boot fitting questions,
    read where I'm skiing at http://www.fatskideals.com/blog.html

  2. #1002
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    西 雅 圖
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    Quote Originally Posted by thechad View Post
    So length wise I have just under 1cm for a shell fit. How much room can be made in the toe box via punching before the boot deforms?
    How much you can punch a boot for length depends on the plastic used, shell thickness and sole stability - they vary a lot. Depending on where you need the extra length (big toe, second toe, combination of the two, entire toe box) you may run into a conflict with the binding before you exhaust the ability of the plastic to be stretched. I would say you can get 8-9mm more with the polyether Mach 1 boots as long as you can maintain a gap between boot toe and toepiece.

    For an extreme example of what can be done with an elastic material (in this case Grilamid) and the right setup, here's a MTN Lab that's been turned from a 27.5 to a 28.5. Obviously it won't work with anything other than a tech binding now and you would still have to make sure the extra length doesn't push the locking lever forward while skinning.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #1003
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    PS The Mach 1 shell is pretty burly - depending on the shape of your heel/achilles you may also consider grinding and or punching the heel for extra length.

  4. #1004
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Nicely done punch on the Salomon Mtn Lab - you must have an awesome set of tools
    Who cares how the crow flies

  5. #1005
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    1
    ace..., ,etc, etc etc.. is there another boot or technique to try? Would having a built surefooot boot solve problems? I may be willing to have that conversation..
    thanks in advance[/QUOTE]


    I have the same issue. Take a look at the 2018 Lange XT130 lv freetour. I think you'll be suprised with the amount of room for your instep. I haven't tried any other 2018 Lange so not sure what they are like.

  6. #1006
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    79
    question from a tinkerer here : i have some older salomon ghosts shells (black with green buckles). i wanted to soften the flex but I see you cannot remove the cuff (it is riveted). any tips here ?

    also tried on some new boots the other day. was wondering if on a tecnica mach 1 130 and the new lange RX130 the cuff is also riveted (shop only has lower spec models / would need ordering) .

    thanks

  7. #1007
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    Quote Originally Posted by slashy View Post
    question from a tinkerer here : i have some older salomon ghosts shells (black with green buckles). i wanted to soften the flex but I see you cannot remove the cuff (it is riveted). any tips here ?

    also tried on some new boots the other day. was wondering if on a tecnica mach 1 130 and the new lange RX130 the cuff is also riveted (shop only has lower spec models / would need ordering) .

    thanks
    1) you can cut the top of the lower portion of the boot down 5mm = 10 flex (ish) also use the power strap between the liner and the shell.

    2) not sure, but see solutions above

    Email me at dave@fatskideals.com for boot fitting questions,
    read where I'm skiing at http://www.fatskideals.com/blog.html

  8. #1008
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    Dec 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by YoEddy View Post
    you must have an awesome set of tools
    Standard shop setup (SVST boot press and some custom bits for toes).

  9. #1009
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Portland by way of Bozeman
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    2,500
    I'm hoping to get some boot beta from the collective wisdom here. Mainly due to a lack of local shops staffing a seasoned bootfitter.

    I've been skiing the Lange RX130 since its release. The shells are a bit haggard and last year, some new hardware was required to keep them together. After getting some time on them this season - it's time for new boots.

    My feet: rather wide fore and mid-foot, to the tune of 106mm or so. I always need a massive 6th toe punch and with the Langes, needed the shells widened at the mid foot. High instep. Narrow, pocketed heel. Think Hobbit feet here. 275. mondo size; 316 BSL. I always aim for a performance fit.

    With the Langes, I was able to get by with custom molded foot beds, Intuition Power Wraps and boot board grinding. It mostly did the job, though it never quite gave me the snugness around the front of my ankle and often, the fore and midfoot were never wide enough. Instep height was adequate, though this was solved with a great deal of posting foam during the baking of the Intuitions. The ankle pocket, on the other hand, was spectacular. I loved it. And the flex. It's of note that I removed the two bolts in the spine to soften up the flex.

    In doing some furious interwebbing, it seems that two boots may meet the requirements to fit my Hobbit flippers. The Atomic Hawx Prime 120 (red boots !!!) and the Head Vector Evo 130. Both seem to offer a heat moldable liner and, most importantly, a heat moldable shell that expands with what seems like enough volume to fit. I've had a chance to carpet flex the Atomics and they felt great and would need molding for width. In reading, the Heads seem to fit similar.

    I humbly ask a few questions:
    Am I tracking correctly with the two aforementioned boots? Is the Atomic Hawx Ultra 130 worth considering? Are there other boots that I should consider?

  10. #1010
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobcat Sig View Post
    I'm hoping to get some boot beta from the collective wisdom here. Mainly due to a lack of local shops staffing a seasoned bootfitter.

    I've been skiing the Lange RX130 since its release. The shells are a bit haggard and last year, some new hardware was required to keep them together. After getting some time on them this season - it's time for new boots.

    My feet: rather wide fore and mid-foot, to the tune of 106mm or so. I always need a massive 6th toe punch and with the Langes, needed the shells widened at the mid foot. High instep. Narrow, pocketed heel. Think Hobbit feet here. 275. mondo size; 316 BSL. I always aim for a performance fit.

    With the Langes, I was able to get by with custom molded foot beds, Intuition Power Wraps and boot board grinding. It mostly did the job, though it never quite gave me the snugness around the front of my ankle and often, the fore and midfoot were never wide enough. Instep height was adequate, though this was solved with a great deal of posting foam during the baking of the Intuitions. The ankle pocket, on the other hand, was spectacular. I loved it. And the flex. It's of note that I removed the two bolts in the spine to soften up the flex.

    In doing some furious interwebbing, it seems that two boots may meet the requirements to fit my Hobbit flippers. The Atomic Hawx Prime 120 (red boots !!!) and the Head Vector Evo 130. Both seem to offer a heat moldable liner and, most importantly, a heat moldable shell that expands with what seems like enough volume to fit. I've had a chance to carpet flex the Atomics and they felt great and would need molding for width. In reading, the Heads seem to fit similar.

    I humbly ask a few questions:
    Am I tracking correctly with the two aforementioned boots? Is the Atomic Hawx Ultra 130 worth considering? Are there other boots that I should consider?
    FYI:

    1) ALL boots are heat moldable, as are ALL shells, and all liners. This is somehting that the marketing people have latched onto, but the R&D guys (fitters) have been doing for years. You can cook any shell you want to/ need to to make it bigger

    2) you can make most boots bigger, buy 5-10mm per side, but its hard to make a heel pocket smaller, so get that to fit, and make the forefoot wider as needed with punching and more instep room by grind boot board.

    3) yes, your list is a good starting point, but add the Nordica strider to it and the Hawk too.

    4) wait to try on more boots, at a better/bigger shop, as you WILL need some work done to a boot (as will MOST people in MOST boots)

    Email me at dave@fatskideals.com for boot fitting questions,
    read where I'm skiing at http://www.fatskideals.com/blog.html

  11. #1011
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    FYI:

    1) ALL boots are heat moldable, as are ALL shells, and all liners. This is somehting that the marketing people have latched onto, but the R&D guys (fitters) have been doing for years. You can cook any shell you want to/ need to to make it bigger

    2) you can make most boots bigger, buy 5-10mm per side, but its hard to make a heel pocket smaller, so get that to fit, and make the forefoot wider as needed with punching and more instep room by grind boot board.

    3) yes, your list is a good starting point, but add the Nordica strider to it and the Hawk too.

    4) wait to try on more boots, at a better/bigger shop, as you WILL need some work done to a boot (as will MOST people in MOST boots)
    Terrific, thank you. The issue Iím facing is availability of a seasoned boot fitter AND a shop with a good run of boots to fit. Some have a few boots, but lack the experience. Or, I️ can find experience with no boots.

    Iíll see if I️ canít find a shop with the Nordicas.

  12. #1012
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    381
    I molded some power wraps and they feel amazing... except for one of my toes. It is the "ring" toe on my left foot, and it sticks out past my big toe about 1/2". It gets a little curled when i put it in the boot and comes out sore at the end of the day. Any ideas on how i can remold that one small area without remolding the whole foot area of the liner?

  13. #1013
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    Feb 2010
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    Portland by way of Bozeman
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    Quote Originally Posted by californiagrown View Post
    I molded some power wraps and they feel amazing... except for one of my toes. It is the "ring" toe on my left foot, and it sticks out past my big toe about 1/2". It gets a little curled when i put it in the boot and comes out sore at the end of the day. Any ideas on how i can remold that one small area without remolding the whole foot area of the liner?
    I know the experts will chime in with some ideas here, but I've read of using a heat gun on the offending area and then putting the line over a broom handle to punch out that area while it cools.

  14. #1014
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Snowttingham
    Posts
    486
    a quick question. I have tight calves, plantar etc etc and poor range of ankle motion due to various tennis injuries. when I dorsiflex forward my feet want to splay outwards. This causes pain on the outside of my feet. boots are great fit, so a heal lift help me out?

    Sent from my SM-G930F using TGR Forums mobile app
    i dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum

  15. #1015
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Banff
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rossymcg View Post
    a quick question. I have tight calves, plantar etc etc and poor range of ankle motion due to various tennis injuries. when I dorsiflex forward my feet want to splay outwards. This causes pain on the outside of my feet. boots are great fit, so a heal lift help me out?

    Sent from my SM-G930F using TGR Forums mobile app
    odds are yes, but why not try it and see and let us know?

    a folded up trail map, under the footbed, works well. start with 5mm high, and add more if needed until it feels right to you

    also a stiffer boot can help, and a more upright boot, but a heel lift is cheap, reversable, and a good first step

    Email me at dave@fatskideals.com for boot fitting questions,
    read where I'm skiing at http://www.fatskideals.com/blog.html

  16. #1016
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    Jan 2012
    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    odds are yes, but why not try it and see and let us know?

    a folded up trail map, under the footbed, works well. start with 5mm high, and add more if needed until it feels right to you

    also a stiffer boot can help, and a more upright boot, but a heel lift is cheap, reversable, and a good first step
    respect for the rapid reply. how would a stiffer boot help the issue? I'm in a lange rs130w from this year. I don't feel as though id want a stiffer boot. I'll start with a piste map tucked under my footbeds. it's fucking murder at the min.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using TGR Forums mobile app
    i dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum

  17. #1017
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    Oct 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rossymcg View Post
    respect for the rapid reply. how would a stiffer boot help the issue? I'm in a lange rs130w from this year. I don't feel as though id want a stiffer boot. I'll start with a piste map tucked under my footbeds. it's fucking murder at the min.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using TGR Forums mobile app
    it hurts you when you reach the end of your range of motion (ROM) so a stiffer boot will take more work to get to the end of the ROM, so might feel better. Its just a guess, like all this. Only you, after testing, will know for sure what works for you.

    Email me at dave@fatskideals.com for boot fitting questions,
    read where I'm skiing at http://www.fatskideals.com/blog.html

  18. #1018
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    6,599
    Quote Originally Posted by californiagrown View Post
    I molded some power wraps and they feel amazing... except for one of my toes. It is the "ring" toe on my left foot, and it sticks out past my big toe about 1/2". It gets a little curled when i put it in the boot and comes out sore at the end of the day. Any ideas on how i can remold that one small area without remolding the whole foot area of the liner?
    Did you mold with toe caps? If not remold it with them. With a heat gun you can very easily melt the liner--I did it. Try a hair dryer first, some get hot enough to spot heat.
    ďPlay the game for more than you can afford to lose... only then will you learn the game.Ē - Winston Churchill

  19. #1019
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    381
    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    Did you mold with toe caps? If not remold it with them. With a heat gun you can very easily melt the liner--I did it. Try a hair dryer first, some get hot enough to spot heat.
    I didnt initially when i cooked the liners in the oven. Then i tried to remold the foot area using the rice in sock method with the toe cap and some extra padding in there, but i think that my one little piggy just doesnt want to poke out enough to mold the foam in that area.

    I think im gonna buy a cheap heat gun from HF or HD and try that route... of course being very careful.

  20. #1020
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Big Guy Country
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    261
    Quote Originally Posted by californiagrown View Post
    I think im gonna buy a cheap heat gun from HF or HD and try that route... of course being very careful.
    Before you start blasting it, mask the areas on your liner that you don't want to heat up with aluminum foil.

  21. #1021
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    Quote Originally Posted by CallMeAl View Post
    Before you start blasting it, mask the areas on your liner that you don't want to heat up with aluminum foil.
    yup, or heat slowly and carefully. Heat gun should be 6-12" away and NOT on high setting. Heat lightly until both inside and outside are warm. Then stretch on a broom handle the spot you want to make more room on

    Email me at dave@fatskideals.com for boot fitting questions,
    read where I'm skiing at http://www.fatskideals.com/blog.html

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