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  1. #2126
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    Jan 2007
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    the answer to "WTF is wrong with my boots?"

    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    The mercury boots were great for a few years, then they got slack. I went to see a highly regarded boot fitter in van. He agreed I have no place in a smaller length boot. He added a bunch of foam around my heels. That pushed my foot forward and I ended up with a few black toes. I ripped everything off and added padding on the instep. That worked a for a while. Then that foam seemed to pack so I added the other 5mm. Foam doesn't work with how much I flex my boots touring. I am looking for something that is flexy but dense, like waxman suggested "gel or silicone type pad". Any ideas where I can source such pads?

    .
    What about a mouse pad?


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    It doesn't matter if you're a king or a little street sweeper...
    ...sooner or later you'll dance with the reaper
    -Death

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    The other morning I was awoken to "Daddy, my fart fell on the floor"
    Kaz is my co-pilot

  2. #2127
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Maine Coast
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    4,681
    So I bought a pair of Lange rs off gearswap. They came with 3mm boot sole plates. I was not familiar with them, but apparently they are designed to minimize boot wear. The plates are already showing some signs of wear. My preference is to remove them and fill holes with gflex; I have plenty on hand. My concern is if with so many holes if the boot sole is weakened. I probably could source another set of p lates, but again not familiar with them. Concerned about hitting holes exactly right second time. Even though just 3mm I would rather not have any extra lift.

    Thoughts?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #2128
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    The Right Coast
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    1,083
    I assume the toes/heels were routed to DIN spec to accommodate the lifter plates. Think you’re probably stuck with getting a new set.


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  4. #2129
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    May 2007
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    The Right Coast
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    1,083

    the answer to "WTF is wrong with my boots?"

    I assume the toes/heels were routed to DIN spec to accommodate the lifter plates. Think you’re probably stuck with getting a new set.

    Very common for race boots, provides height and protects sole/canting.


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  5. #2130
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    2,767
    Quote Originally Posted by cat in january View Post
    So I bought a pair of Lange rs off gearswap. They came with 3mm boot sole plates. I was not familiar with them, but apparently they are designed to minimize boot wear. The plates are already showing some signs of wear. My preference is to remove them and fill holes with gflex; I have plenty on hand. My concern is if with so many holes if the boot sole is weakened. I probably could source another set of p lates, but again not familiar with them. Concerned about hitting holes exactly right second time. Even though just 3mm I would rather not have any extra lift.

    Thoughts?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	16CE407F-46A3-49BE-B46C-BBE55A404B1E.jpg 
Views:	95 
Size:	669.5 KB 
ID:	427292
    try and find the same lifters (sorry i don't recognize those) and swap them out
    what's orange and looks good on hippies?
    fire

    rails are for trains
    If I had a dollar for every time capitalism was blamed for problems caused by the government I'd be a rich fat film maker in a baseball hat.

    www.theguideshut.ca

  6. #2131
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    Oct 2009
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    Maine Coast
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    Yeah I have been doing the google thing and not coming up with a match. Sounds like I am committed to keeping with plates

  7. #2132
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    Jan 2020
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    Danby
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    As Bennett said, you are SOL. Those definitely got routered by 3mm on top of the toe and heel. If you look on the top of the toe and heel lug you will see the marks. Just get a new set of 3mm lifters. That’s a really common thing in a race shop.

    And this place is honestly the only place on the planet besides new schoolers where people try to get as flat as possible on a ski. It doesn’t even make sense in terms of physics. Leverage and lift is a friend when using a ski to the fullest of its potential.

  8. #2133
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    2,767
    what's orange and looks good on hippies?
    fire

    rails are for trains
    If I had a dollar for every time capitalism was blamed for problems caused by the government I'd be a rich fat film maker in a baseball hat.

    www.theguideshut.ca

  9. #2134
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    Oct 2009
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    Maine Coast
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    Thanks guys appreciate the input

  10. #2135
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    Dec 2009
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    563
    Any idea how I can get my hands on a Nordica Crocodile?

    https://issuu.com/snowsport_pl/docs/...8_canada_fin/8

  11. #2136
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    Jan 2017
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    on the banks of Fish Creek
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    that's one sweet tool!

  12. #2137
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    Dec 2010
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    西 雅 圖
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    Looks like different screw pattern. If it doesn't work out, shoot me a PM and I'll sell you a pair of last season's 26.5 RS 130 cheap.

  13. #2138
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Calgary
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    1,888

    the answer to "WTF is wrong with my boots?"

    So this is what throws me for a loop bootfitting. I fit either the Mach 130 LV or RS130 LV with MY formed Intuition Plug Wraps (low volume) THE SAME as the above boots in MV with STOCK liners, all with the same my formed footbeds.

    Obviously the answer depends on what liners I plan to use but in theory, the LVs with formed intuitions should be better than the MVs with stock liners. Correct me if I’m wrong.

    Also, I had some Atomic Prof liners formed last year but because they only fill around the ankles, I felt they were too high volume around the rest of the foot. This is the only foam liners I have experience with so do most foam liners (or even Zipfit) fit more like my low volume Intuition or more medium volume like a stock?

    Edit: to answer my own question, the stock liners will pack out some while the formed Intuition will not. Still curious to know from the more experienced fitters if foam inject liners and Zipfits tend to be thinner and want a closer fitting shell.
    Last edited by robnow; 09-29-2022 at 09:07 PM.

  14. #2139
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    53
    Wondering if anyone here has experience with the pivot bolt (not sure if that is the correct term) repeatedly breaking. I have a pair of older technica mach1 mv 130s (probably 100+ days on them) and I broke the ankle pivot bolt 3x last season. Not sure if it's just a wear issue, and it's time to get new boots or if something else could be going on. I would go through and tighten the bolts a couple times, but definitely didn't remember to do it before every day.

  15. #2140
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    Dec 2010
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    西 雅 圖
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    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    So this is what throws me for a loop bootfitting. I fit either the Mach 130 LV or RS130 LV with MY formed Intuition Plug Wraps (low volume) THE SAME as the above boots in MV with STOCK liners, all with the same my formed footbeds.

    Obviously the answer depends on what liners I plan to use but in theory, the LVs with formed intuitions should be better than the MVs with stock liners. Correct me if I’m wrong.

    Also, I had some Atomic Prof liners formed last year but because they only fill around the ankles, I felt they were too high volume around the rest of the foot. This is the only foam liners I have experience with so do most foam liners (or even Zipfit) fit more like my low volume Intuition or more medium volume like a stock?

    Edit: to answer my own question, the stock liners will pack out some while the formed Intuition will not. Still curious to know from the more experienced fitters if foam inject liners and Zipfits tend to be thinner and want a closer fitting shell.
    The people who buy Injected PU liners and Zipfits almost always buy much narrower boots (92mm to 98mm lasts) because they realize that having the shell closer to your foot means better skiing. If they have a bootfitter they trust, they are confident the boot that crushes their foot in the shop with no shell work and unmolded/foamed liners can be made to work and will be a much better performance option with some time and effort.

    Stock liners with few exceptions normally have three different foam laminates inside, with the innermost being 3-4mm of very soft material. This is to get people to feel comfortable in the shop and buy the boot. The fact that your LV boots with cooked Intuitons and a stock MV boot feel similarly snug in the shop won't be true after even a few days skiing them, you will be swimming in the MV's.

    If you feel the front of the Atomic Professionals is too roomy, the next step is to go narrower, i.e. Redster Club Sport or STI - sorry, no GripWalk or even rubber soles, though.

    PS Every liner packs out some, but an Intuition that's a tight fit before molding packs out much less, since the foam is compressed after molding and it's all quality EVA with no soft inner layer.

  16. #2141
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,469
    Quote Originally Posted by TexasGortex View Post
    Any idea how I can get my hands on a Nordica Crocodile?

    https://issuu.com/snowsport_pl/docs/...8_canada_fin/8
    Any progress? Financial independence is out of reach. Boot punching independence is good enough for me.

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

  17. #2142
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    563
    None. Being friendly with a Nordica rep or knowing a shop going out of business/getting new equipment is probably your best best.

    You might want to be financially independent regardless, their closest competitor (Blademaster) starts at around $750 so I don’t expect it to be cheap.

  18. #2143
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,951
    Thread bump as another reminder to get your boots dialed now, before boot fitters are backed up three weeks for punches.


    I jjust home molded some Tour Wraps for my ZGTP and it went really well. Gonna wear them around the office this week but probably have to bring them in for a little more shell massaging.

  19. #2144
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    Dec 2010
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    西 雅 圖
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    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    Thread bump as another reminder to get your boots dialed now, before boot fitters are backed up three weeks for punches.
    You would prefer that your bootfitter did the punches with you in the shop, so you can provide real-time feedback. Hard to trust that they will remember the contours of your feet three weeks down the road or even if the same fitter does the work. I'm already booked out 2--3 weeks, FWIW.

  20. #2145
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Golden
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    1,023
    Booked solid for 3 weeks? Only one bootfitter? I’ve never seen any shop take more than 2 days to do any bootfitting job. Even in whistler at Christmas.

    Not slagging, just hard to imagine.

  21. #2146
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    Sep 2021
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    Lost in the PNWet
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    369
    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenBC View Post
    Booked solid for 3 weeks? Only one bootfitter? I’ve never seen any shop take more than 2 days to do any bootfitting job. Even in whistler at Christmas.

    Not slagging, just hard to imagine.
    Greg is such an experienced and high quality bootfitter that his shop charges a premium to get fit by him specifically. The fitting itself takes the normal amount of time, three weeks is the current wait time to get him.

  22. #2147
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    185
    I've got some salomon s/max 130s that a shop completely butchered the haglund's heel grind on a year ago. I didn't question it at the time cuz typically there's plenty of material there to work with (see Lange RX). Unfortunately, the S/MAX plastic is super thin there to begin with and i wouldn't be surprised if if there's less than a mm left now. very much translucent with a flashlight on the heel.
    I like the boots overall, but my heel 100% needs much more of a punch for them to be skiable.

    am I wrong in thinking that the heel isn't structural and we can just punch it the rest of the way and when we blow through, just patch with something like JB weld?
    if not, it's time to part ways and give up on them.

  23. #2148
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    Dec 2010
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    西 雅 圖
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    Quote Originally Posted by sweatypowderpig View Post
    . . . am I wrong in thinking that the heel isn't structural and we can just punch it the rest of the way and when we blow through, just patch with something like JB weld?
    if not, it's time to part ways and give up on them.
    It's not "structural" in terms of supplying stiffness when you flex forward, but you'd rather not have a hole there. Try sticking a couple layers of duct tape over the thin part before you hit it with the heat gun (take off the mess with GooGone afterward) to shield it from the majority of the heat.

    Going forward, most modern boot designs that aren't race plugs should be punched for heel spurs rather than ground (that goes for other parts of modern recreational boots, too - the reason they are so much lighter is because the plastic is thinner). Real race boots can take some grinding and often punch better after you remove a bit of material.

  24. #2149
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    751
    Question for the boot pros:

    Just bought a pair of hawx prime xtd 130s on steep and cheap (deal too good to pass up). Tried them on today and am really pleased with the fit right out if the box - heel hold feels solid, and its nice and tight all over without any bad pain. Only minor issue is a little pain over the instep, where there appears to be some of the mimic plastic. The pain isn’t bad at all, but I wouldn’t mind making a little more room there to avoid any issues when I’m touring. I wouldn’t mind a little more room in the toe box either, but its not imperative.

    What’s my best bet here? Im thinking about doing an intuituon-esque liner molding with some hot rice, add some padding to the instep, and not buckling too tight. That make sense? Or better to just grit through it for a few days and see if it resolves? I’d like to avoid making any more room around the heel if I can.

    I’m not inclined to do a full shell and liner molding treatment at the moment given how nice the fit is right now, but lmk if you disagree. Local bootfitter isn’t working on boots purchased elsewhere right now either, so not sure its even possible without DIYing it. (I could do this I think, but would rather not risk screwing them up)

    Thanks for all the help - appreciate all you guys do here.

  25. #2150
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
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    448
    Quote Originally Posted by waxloaf View Post
    Question for the boot pros:

    Just bought a pair of hawx prime xtd 130s on steep and cheap (deal too good to pass up). Tried them on today and am really pleased with the fit right out if the box - heel hold feels solid, and its nice and tight all over without any bad pain. Only minor issue is a little pain over the instep, where there appears to be some of the mimic plastic. The pain isn’t bad at all, but I wouldn’t mind making a little more room there to avoid any issues when I’m touring. I wouldn’t mind a little more room in the toe box either, but its not imperative.

    What’s my best bet here? Im thinking about doing an intuituon-esque liner molding with some hot rice, add some padding to the instep, and not buckling too tight. That make sense? Or better to just grit through it for a few days and see if it resolves? I’d like to avoid making any more room around the heel if I can.

    I’m not inclined to do a full shell and liner molding treatment at the moment given how nice the fit is right now, but lmk if you disagree. Local bootfitter isn’t working on boots purchased elsewhere right now either, so not sure its even possible without DIYing it. (I could do this I think, but would rather not risk screwing them up)

    Thanks for all the help - appreciate all you guys do here.
    I did a DIY shell mold on my hawx Ultra XTD during Covid and they came out great, easy to do and solved all my trouble spots. There’s no reason to grit through anything with these boots, 20 min of effort and your golden.

    I still did the liner mold, just separately. Realized after a few days of use that I could use a little more toe space for walking.

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