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  1. #3826
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Your Mom's House
    Posts
    8,307
    I have these:

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    You ain't going up the ramp with them nor are you driving around with them. But they work great for rolling the sled around flat smooth surfaces. I back the truck up to the garage, set up the ramps, roll the sled up right to the ramp, remove the casters, and load. Super easy, no scratching the concrete.

  2. #3827
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Denial
    Posts
    2,566
    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalated View Post
    You ain't going up the ramp with them nor are you driving around with them. But they work great for rolling the sled around flat smooth surfaces. I back the truck up to the garage, set up the ramps, roll the sled up right to the ramp, remove the casters, and load. Super easy, no scratching the concrete.
    I have those, but the current setup is a real PITA and those small wheels just aren't cutting it, hoping for something that can cross a few cracks without failing
    The whole human race is de evolving; it is due to birth control, smart people use birth control, and stupid people keep pooping out more stupid babies.

  3. #3828
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Shuswap Highlands
    Posts
    4,354
    Perhaps a dolly would work. Still wouldn’t load with one however.
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    https://www.royaldistributing.com/ma...gaAoquEALw_wcB

  4. #3829
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    on the banks of Fish Creek
    Posts
    7,556
    diy it with some sweet harbor freight tires…

    https://www.harborfreight.com/search...2425&current=1

  5. #3830
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5,013
    Quote Originally Posted by Yukonrider View Post
    I have those, but the current setup is a real PITA and those small wheels just aren't cutting it, hoping for something that can cross a few cracks without failing
    Fix your concrete slacker

  6. #3831
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    303
    I have these ones: https://www.extrememax.com/product-p/5800.0200.htm. You can drive around on pavement with them, but probably not up a ramp, especially if it's a high angle, like a sled deck. We just use them to line the sled up and then pull them for the ramp braap. These ones look like you may be able to load w/ them, but spendy: https://www.svspowersports.com/produ...CABEgLvGvD_BwE.

    You can also get ski runners that do not have a carbide insert (here's the one's for current SkiDoos: https://www.denniskirk.com/woodys/to...prd/032317.sku. They will not mark up your ramp/trailer/concrete nearly as much as the OEMs and steer better than the carbides on pavement as well, but they don't last nearly as long. I go through two sets per season, using my sled pretty much every weekend.

  7. #3832
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    2,128
    Quote Originally Posted by Yukonrider View Post
    Anyone have those wheels that attach to your skis so you can drive around without scarthching up concrete?

    I have ski slippers, but they fit poorly. Ideally I could load my sled into the truck (up the ramp), then unload it all with the wheels attached
    I have them. You'd need a smooth ramp and smooth transition to make that works. Superglides are a better solution. Drive machine so skis are touching the ramp. Take off wheels. Drive up ramp. Done.
    "...if you're not doing a double flip cork something, skiing spines in Haines, or doing double flip cork somethings off spines in Haines, you're pretty much just gaping."

  8. #3833
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    2,128
    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles View Post
    Touring sleds are great...except when they are not. Reluctant snowmobile users don't use their snowmobiles. Said a different way, its a bit of a motorhead's game. You really need to like the smell and the noise. It's called "Hatin' Nature" for a reason. You will get stuck. Shit will break.

    I'm not promoting some coal rollin' lifestyle, just trying to paint a accurate picture. You're probably not gonna want to wear your snowmobile outfit to the Greenpeace Fundraiser.
    My wife always tells me I smell like 2-stroke after a day on machines. I take it as a compliment. I'm not certain she means it in a positive way...
    "...if you're not doing a double flip cork something, skiing spines in Haines, or doing double flip cork somethings off spines in Haines, you're pretty much just gaping."

  9. #3834
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    2,020
    A friend of a friend is willing to sell a 09 or 10 skidoo summit Everest 154 for pretty cheap (TBD), he likely babied it trail riding, it has a passenger backrest, unknown hours/ miles at this time, it's also has sat for 3 or 4 years.
    Likely carb rebuild needed, belt, good going over, look for obvious damage to steering, etc..

    Any gotchas to look for on this gen/ model? Iirc some doo engines around this era were crap?

  10. #3835
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    invermere
    Posts
    909
    Quote Originally Posted by heckacali View Post
    A friend of a friend is willing to sell a 09 or 10 skidoo summit Everest 154 for pretty cheap (TBD), he likely babied it trail riding, it has a passenger backrest, unknown hours/ miles at this time, it's also has sat for 3 or 4 years.
    Likely carb rebuild needed, belt, good going over, look for obvious damage to steering, etc..

    Any gotchas to look for on this gen/ model? Iirc some doo engines around this era were crap?
    Those motors need the crank bearings greased.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  11. #3836
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    2,020
    Is that code for them having crappy bearings?

  12. #3837
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    invermere
    Posts
    909
    Quote Originally Posted by heckacali View Post
    Is that code for them having crappy bearings?
    Sort of, just the design of the motor.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  13. #3838
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5,013
    Quote Originally Posted by pano-dude View Post
    Sort of, just the design of the motor.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
    It's an easy job. Fuck carbs BTW.

  14. #3839
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Denial
    Posts
    2,566
    Fuck carbs. If you have the cash get something without carbs. I don't miss the days when I had to pull for 5 minutes after rolling my sled, trying to hold the throttle wide open with one hand and pull the rope with the other.
    The whole human race is de evolving; it is due to birth control, smart people use birth control, and stupid people keep pooping out more stupid babies.

  15. #3840
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    8,794
    I have these dolly's https://www.discountramps.com/black-...hoCLsgQAvD_BwE

    They are pretty decent. You can roll around of asphalt. I've used them to load a trailer but I wouldn't suggest it. I made a little transition piece to get between the garage and the drive way. There are some that have larger inflatable wheels that look like they would be great?

    Re: loading I've seen a lot of bad shit go down. Pay attention and be careful. "Hey, do you want any help with that?" "I'm good" = full whisky up the deck ramp through the window. Traction ramps work. Brakes work.

  16. #3841
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    1,037
    Quote Originally Posted by Wapow View Post
    I have these ones: https://www.extrememax.com/product-p/5800.0200.htm. You can drive around on pavement with them, but probably not up a ramp, especially if it's a high angle, like a sled deck. We just use them to line the sled up and then pull them for the ramp braap. These ones look like you may be able to load w/ them, but spendy: https://www.svspowersports.com/produ...CABEgLvGvD_BwE.

    You can also get ski runners that do not have a carbide insert (here's the one's for current SkiDoos: https://www.denniskirk.com/woodys/to...prd/032317.sku. They will not mark up your ramp/trailer/concrete nearly as much as the OEMs and steer better than the carbides on pavement as well, but they don't last nearly as long. I go through two sets per season, using my sled pretty much every weekend.
    How do you the ski runners without carbides run on packed snow/ice?

  17. #3842
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    invermere
    Posts
    909
    Quote Originally Posted by cmor View Post
    How do you the ski runners without carbides run on packed snow/ice?
    Still need steel wear bars or the sled won't turn worth shit.
    I won't run carbides ever, they catch on anything and everything.


    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  18. #3843
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Shuswap Highlands
    Posts
    4,354
    Quote Originally Posted by pano-dude View Post
    Still need steel wear bars or the sled won't turn worth shit.
    I won't run carbides ever, they catch on anything and everything.


    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
    And torqued a-arms are the result. Front end reinforcement helps, but those carbides sure love to seek out any mineral to grab a hold of in early/shallow snowpacks.

  19. #3844
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5,013
    Drove across the state and left my skidoo key behind. Had a spare from another sled. Went to the dealer and they reprogrammed it for $45. Stoked on that. Needed a spare for this sled anyway.

  20. #3845
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,211
    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    Drove across the state and left my skidoo key behind. Had a spare from another sled. Went to the dealer and they reprogrammed it for $45. Stoked on that. Needed a spare for this sled anyway.
    I was told this was like $500 by a friend so be super careful with the keys... What year sled?

  21. #3846
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5,013
    Quote Originally Posted by nortonwhis View Post
    I was told this was like $500 by a friend so be super careful with the keys... What year sled?
    2018. Last time I bought a key it was less than $100 so I would say $150 not $500.

  22. #3847
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    give'er eh!
    Posts
    2,176
    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    2018. Last time I bought a key it was less than $100 so I would say $150 not $500.
    There are no dess keys from what I’ve heard so it could be $$ to get one if it’s available and that is what you need. Ski-doo 2022-2023’s r coming off the line unequiped….

    If u do misplace your key or break it there is a way to bypass the dess but I’m not at liberty to say that over the internet…

  23. #3848
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    invermere
    Posts
    909
    I just had a spare key programmed for my 18 summit.
    $100. It will live in my pack, had the original pull off my pack nut strap and get buried in the snow, luckily we found it after digging for a half hour.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  24. #3849
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    303
    Quote Originally Posted by pano-dude View Post
    Still need steel wear bars or the sled won't turn worth shit.
    I won't run carbides ever, they catch on anything and everything.


    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
    The wear bars I use are "hard weld" steel. They are steel, but they put a bead of weld on the running surface, like a carbide, to make them last a little longer. They work great in all conditions that I've been in, but they wear out pretty quick. You have to keep an eye on em, or you could damage a ski. Same goes for carbides, but you need to check less frequently.

  25. #3850
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    2,128
    Any recommendations/advise for maximizing the difficulty for stealing a sled off a sled deck when staying at hotels?
    "...if you're not doing a double flip cork something, skiing spines in Haines, or doing double flip cork somethings off spines in Haines, you're pretty much just gaping."

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