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  1. #1526
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    AK
    Posts
    34
    Looking for some opinions.

    2006 M7 162- Pristine. Low miles( <900), like new, not quite stock, but no major mods. This sled is CLEAN. Mechanically and cosmetically very well taken care of. $3000

    OR

    2008 M8 162- 1700 Miles, very well maintained mechanically. It's in good/great shape, but not pristine like the m7 (plastics are scratched, tail light cracked). Stock, except a 2" riser. $3500

    Diamond Drives on both are in good condition, Tracks are in excellent shape. Obviously the 8 has reverse which is nice, but not a deal breaker for me. I'm told the 7s have super shitty mpg. I honestly think both are excellent deals, and I can't go wrong with either. I'm leaning towards the M8. I'm a Clyde, will be used for playing, exploring, skiing, etc.

    If it was you; which would you choose, And why?

  2. #1527
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    girdweed
    Posts
    1,067
    Any tips on replacing the rear spring and shock on an O5 rev? I've dropped skids on a few other sleds but not the rev.

  3. #1528
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    tourin BC
    Posts
    2,773
    I had a look at the linq ski rack and rodgers and I thought it would break on first rollover.
    I've seen the linq gas tank break its link thingy. it broke in buddies fingers.

    its way too pricey and you would need 2 ... I know I'd break it ...

    Also ...

    I wasn't saying I don't do preventive maintenance, if you've seen my thread I do shit tons and recommend everyone check over thier sled daily. its the only way to play this game, or expect to get towed home ...
    We, the RATBAGGERS, formally axcept our duty is to trigger avalaches on all skiers ...

  4. #1529
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Morrison, CO
    Posts
    460
    Quote Originally Posted by cmcrawfo View Post
    If you compress the skid with a ratchet strap before you unbolt it, it usually makes removal and installation easier.

    and I would check the compression on your cylinders before you decide if your going to rebuild it or not.
    Ratchet strap is a good idea.

    On the Doo 800s, a compression test won't tell you anything related to the piston skirt's health, unfortunately. The sled can have great compression with a fatigued skirt.


    Iain

  5. #1530
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Morrison, CO
    Posts
    460
    I've not used the Linq rack, but my biggest concern is simple - any webbing/straps I've used on the sleds winds up being crusty and frozen and useless.

    I'd LIKE to think Doo thought of that & they have some fancypants webbing that wont' get all crusty and frozen. Beyond that, it looks ok, but I agree with Shadam, does not look all that robust.

  6. #1531
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Morrison, CO
    Posts
    460
    Quote Originally Posted by danadog View Post
    So what 2 stroke Oil is everyone running? I went to the Cat shop and it was $47 a gallon for the Cat branded synthetic stuff.
    I use Skidoo XPS synthetic. I pay about $36/gal, so while not cheap, it is not dramatically more expensive than other "name brand" oils.

    Reasoning - one, who wants my under-warranty motor to last more than me? Skidoo. They have to pay for it if it pops. Two, my mechanic friend (20+ years skidoo/brp) recommends Skidoo OR Redline, none other. He's worked snowcross/hillclimb teams, been around skidoo/sleds for a longass time. OK. He sees a LOT of blown-up sleds.


    Iain

  7. #1532
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Your Mom's House
    Posts
    8,309
    Quote Originally Posted by icb12 View Post
    Looking for some opinions.

    2006 M7 162- Pristine. Low miles( <900), like new, not quite stock, but no major mods. This sled is CLEAN. Mechanically and cosmetically very well taken care of. $3000

    OR

    2008 M8 162- 1700 Miles, very well maintained mechanically. It's in good/great shape, but not pristine like the m7 (plastics are scratched, tail light cracked). Stock, except a 2" riser. $3500

    Diamond Drives on both are in good condition, Tracks are in excellent shape. Obviously the 8 has reverse which is nice, but not a deal breaker for me. I'm told the 7s have super shitty mpg. I honestly think both are excellent deals, and I can't go wrong with either. I'm leaning towards the M8. I'm a Clyde, will be used for playing, exploring, skiing, etc.

    If it was you; which would you choose, And why?
    I have an M7. If I could have bought a newer M8 for $3500 I definitely would have.

    Other than check it out for wear and damage (a-arms/tie-rods straight, good compressions, piston skirts look OK viewed through exhaust port, track and hyfax good, etc.) I'd say go the M8.

  8. #1533
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    mlca
    Posts
    1,590
    Still rocking the EZ-RAK after many years. Affordable, bomber, light, and tested by some hard chargers. They also have a new ratchet strap system. If interested I will get a hold John and get a promo code.

    http://ez-rak.com/

    And they are multi purpose


  9. #1534
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Morrison, CO
    Posts
    460
    Figure this'd be the best place to ask this - Shadam? other Ratbaggers? Looking to build some roads this winter.

    Long story short, I'm looking at opening a zone that looks to be splendid ONCE UP THERE. Have to get from the valley floor up to the alpine. MOST of what we do lets us get to and/or CLOSE to the alpine to ski. We've made some relatively short roads over the years, this will be our most adventurous to date.

    Total distance from the valley floor (FS road, ungroomed) to alpine is about 3 miles. Overall, not terribly steep, but I'm SURE there are some benches and things along the way that don't show up on the topo.

    Kinda figure I'll go out there on foot tomorrow and look at it; what I'm after is simple - for those that have made roads, transit paths to get to goods, what's the best way? It almost seems like as straight as possible will lead to the least brain damage - if the choice is digging/packing a straight shot vs. trying to go around it...?

    Thoughts? The first mile or so will be tight trees. Last two will be increasingly open. Last mile should be easy, first 1.5 is what I'm concerned with

    Any insight?


    Iain

  10. #1535
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    4
    2 or 3 guys on snowshoes packing your original trail can make things much easier for punching new access. Especially if you don't want some big coffin holes where you bury it stuck if it's early season with not much I a compact base

  11. #1536
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    AK
    Posts
    720
    Those EZ-Racks made me wonder why I haven't added ladder straps to my ski rack. Been using voile straps for years which work fine, but I think ladder straps are the last piece of the puzzle to streamline my rack. Not super cheap, but look strong and functional:

    http://www.ratchetingbuckles.com/rat...rb7-n-wls7-10/

  12. #1537
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    AK
    Posts
    720
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike_Records View Post
    Those EZ-Racks made me wonder why I haven't added ladder straps to my ski rack. Been using voile straps for years which work fine, but I think ladder straps are the last piece of the puzzle to streamline my rack. Not super cheap, but look strong and functional:

    http://www.ratchetingbuckles.com/rat...rb7-n-wls7-10/
    The cost of shipping is killing me on these, anyone have a better source?

  13. #1538
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Morrison, CO
    Posts
    460
    How are those different than snowboard binding straps?

    I just get a bunch of old snowboard bindings, take the ladders/buckles off, go from there - ?

  14. #1539
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    7,221
    Quote Originally Posted by LID_FTB View Post
    2 or 3 guys on snowshoes packing your original trail can make things much easier for punching new access. Especially if you don't want some big coffin holes where you bury it stuck if it's early season with not much I a compact base
    I think 3-4 guys on sleds leap frogging along is the best trailbreaking method. The trick to making it efficient is the lead guy doesnt just go barrelling in as far as he can, but sets a nice little section of track and then turns out quickly to backtrack around before getting stuck. Turning out and backtracking around also knocks down snow surrounding the track so you really widen things out as you build and don't end up with a tunneled out track as the snow piles up on the sides. Also helps to ride up on the sides each time it snows to keep maintaining girth all season. Easier said than done in the tight trees and certainly plan on more than a few stucks. Use your shovels to back fill and pack down the coffin holes. Solid early season training that really teaches you how to maneuvor your sled in tricky situations. Thats pretty much how I learned how to ride a sled. Lots of sweat and swearing!
    Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature... Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing. -Helen Keller

  15. #1540
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    AK
    Posts
    720
    Quote Originally Posted by Mannix View Post
    How are those different than snowboard binding straps?

    I just get a bunch of old snowboard bindings, take the ladders/buckles off, go from there - ?
    Hahaha, well they aren't. I guess I just haven't been paying attention.

  16. #1541
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    tourin BC
    Posts
    2,773
    agree with powder11 for the alpine trails. coming down builds the trail, going up makes shity trails.

    as for trees trails, shit takes time. we always snowboarded into new trerrain and hike out once we found and built trail. scouting it is the key. no point just blazing a sled into heavy trees and expecting it to be easy. I use google earth alot! and most trails are creeks or draws. but need a good amount of snow to fill it in. and don't ride it for a few days after shoveling and snowshoeing it is key.
    route selection is crucial, lotsa guys build corners big sleds just cant make. while strait up is nice, is it going to happen is deep snow or tandum? again guys try to build to steep a trail, thats ok in march. a weving side hil trail is best. lotsa work to widen it. but easier to use and once in its great. spinning up the trail sux coz its you or me who has to repair it.
    try and keep the entrance as sneaky as poss to keep out those pesky sledders. most sledders are stupid and dont look at anything but wot thier skis are pointed at so trick them. at the end of the day track up all the trees where you start your trail to confuss them. sledders dont walk in snow.

    walking it now is good. take flaging tape so you know where u should b once its all covered in snow. and to mark sled wrecker rocks.
    a hand saw is good, a chainsaw is better. willows/alders are the biggest piss off for us. some trees may need to go. we have one corner where we have to drop a tree each year to build a burm. just no other way.
    snowshoes are key. lotsa compaction needed.
    while the dogs want to come, they just fark up all the hard work.
    trees are traction, branches are too and make good building/bridges for creeks. most of our trails the ski all but kisses the trees so branches have to go.
    tree wells, use them to your favour(mostly late season info) linking up the low side of tree wells works a treat. lotsa concrete tree bombs are good in the trail compaction.

    regardless of wot you do some dick is going to tell you just how wrong you did it. I tell them to fark off!!! its not going to be rite the first year, but next year you'll have it better.
    hope that helps
    We, the RATBAGGERS, formally axcept our duty is to trigger avalaches on all skiers ...

  17. #1542
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Morrison, CO
    Posts
    460
    Thanks, Shadam - helps tons. Makes sense. Funny, too.

    On-foot recon got postponed til tomorrow, but yeah, should go see it. Stihl makes a small chainsaw, don't they? a 22 or something? hrmmm. I have big handsaws, but gas might be better.



    Iain

  18. #1543
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    345
    K another sled im looking at. Seems like a good deal, for a 2011. doesnt have the warranty like the one powder11 posted but that seems like fantasy land. I miss fantasy land. Anyways its in the 2011 arctic cat range that kidwoo rec'd has fox shocks. added bonus is since I don't have a trailer he will drive it to me tomorrow on his way to edmontonia to get his new sled.
    http://www.kijiji.ca/v-snowmobile/ed...ell/1028024684

  19. #1544
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    345
    actually now im suspicious. I replied to an add for the same sled a few days ago. didnt even realize it. price just was a thousand lower this time. In the first add he said it was used by his buddy only on groomed trails, not this time he says first 3000km lady driven. Im starting to think fuck it just on that alone

  20. #1545
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    tourin BC
    Posts
    2,773
    buying a sled is such a gamble. when I buy a car truck wotev from a random I'm judging the guy as much as the machine.
    if it sounds too good to be true ???
    only driven on trails = bull farkin shit !!! the way flatlanders ride trails is worse than us mtn men! wooped out trails are brutal on the machine especially at high speeds. = plastic will look great but suspension will be punched out and machine fatigued.
    buying from a dealer sux in BC coz of tax, but I'd like to think they aren't selling a lemon.
    my dealer always has good sleds traded and others he can set up a private sale no tax as these sleds are never going to be rego'd or insured so name doesnt change on ownership. wot I like is he knows the sled, probably sold it new and has been servicing it, thus knows its history. he doesnt bullshit us and prices seem fair.
    I'm seeing some decent machines in golden rite now in ur price.

    getting along with your dealer is key, I've given a few cases of beer to get my sled worked on first thing in the morning ...

    it is possible, but if the adds are slightly different wording ???
    We, the RATBAGGERS, formally axcept our duty is to trigger avalaches on all skiers ...

  21. #1546
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    345
    ^^ well buddy called me this morning to clear things up. Told me to call revolution motor sports in whistler for history on the sled. Also told me to message hoji and dave treadway. Which sounds ncie other then those two are crazy and are like the people i probably would not want to own sleds from. Seemed like a nice guy on the phone two but anyone thats any good at being a salsemen knows not to be an asshole when your trying to sell something soo I'm not sure. Revrolution powersports is closed next 2 days So I will have to call on tuesday. anything I can look at online there Shadam? Not in a massive rush or anything I also saw this sled and can most likely get it for 5gs http://www.kijiji.ca/v-snowmobile/re...pro/1024724543.

  22. #1547
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    tourin BC
    Posts
    2,773
    just reread add, says "first" 3000km was lady riden. that sounds fair.

    I know a guy who bought a X rental 2012 cat with just under 10,000km and he loved it. seemed like a good buy for the price.

    be very careful with cats, some only have a front cooller. it will over heat everywhere and even guys riding with me have probs on my trails. 1 went into limp mode in the worst avy zone!!! so all the guys behind had to stop! fark I was worried. I tell every1 don't stop here, and wot happened!
    here in saska-nowhere these sleds are a real problem for this reason. it will shut itself down and your farked! don't buy a first sled with only 1 cooler is the short version!
    yamy nitro's have the same prob and icy trails are the worst.

    so ...

    the big advantage of a tunnel cooler is you check your temp easily. if its too hot to put your hand on it then shit is bad! always keep snow on it and duck off the trail regularly into fresh snow, not only does it keep motor cool, it keeps the hyfaxs lubed. (yes guys in spring melt the hyfaxs to the track!) on the trails up the ratbaggers are stopping all the time to put more snow on tunnel. the more you do this and watch the melt rate the happier the sled will be. over heating on the uptrack is the most common place to pop your motor. don't ever underestimate this. and obviously its worse with 2 people on the sled. the more groomed or well travelled the worse this problem becomes. driving slow does not save it from over heating, sometimes its worse for it!
    sleds are like no other machine on the planet! the more time you focus on it getting to know all its quirks the better it will treat you. it why I expect everyone that wants to hang with the rattbaggers to get to know thier sled and how to ride the farking thing coz its always me and snowforever sorting out other peoples issues when we should be playing.
    We, the RATBAGGERS, formally axcept our duty is to trigger avalaches on all skiers ...

  23. #1548
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    tourin BC
    Posts
    2,773
    I dont know much about cats, other than how to tow them.

    first one sounds better for $5g

    alota guys ask stupid money for sleds and some sell for a fair price. its a high performance 2 stroke, wot could possibly go wrong.

    I'm biased to skidoo REV's. $4000 gets a good one. so many parts are common on 340, 600, 800 and even the 1000. lots around and everyone can work on them at anyshop. they seem to go forever. my buddy has a 04 800 with about 14,000km on sled, about 8,000km on motor and he is a sledder and has done huge jumps! like 40ft+ and hes a big boy. sure he works on it lots.
    I bought a sled without motor for $1200 2 years ago and didnt buy any parts last year as they were all sitting right there. had new clutches and all.
    it was a good gamble.
    We, the RATBAGGERS, formally axcept our duty is to trigger avalaches on all skiers ...

  24. #1549
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    345
    hmmm, totally agree on judging the person you buy from. Bought my 97 4runner 2 years ago, lady driven, all receipts for work done were there, paid 3500 200gkms ive put 58 on er and only had to change the oil and changed all the fluids once right after I bought it. No issues. Sleds are waaay more intimidating. I do like the sound that most people can work on skidoos and parts are abundant, just heard lots of people say nasty things about them in this thread haha hence why I started looking arctic cats, seems to be true though, talk to one person they tell you how awesome(insert brand here) is and then next person says how much they suck or how often they tow them out of the bc hahaha. Its def a gamble hence why i keep asking on here what everyone thinks just to see if i've missed anything. Don't wanna overlook something obvious cause I'm to stoked https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgXObaM9i2Q . I've messaged on a few summits as well but haven't heard anything back yet. I just want one season of fun on it haha, everything else will be bonus points or i'll trade up.

  25. #1550
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Morrison, CO
    Posts
    460
    None of them are perfect. I like Skidoo as well, though - initially, because a friend is a mechanic, but at this point, knowing more about sleds, having ridden some others, ehhh, I REALLY like skidoo.

    A well taken care of Skidoo will last a long time. They just kinda keep on going - I'm a bit of a zealot when it comes to maintenance, I overdo it. A friend of mine has an 04 Rev 800 with a metric shitton of miles on it, the stupid thing just won't die.

    It "should" blow up. He's mechanically inept - hell of a snowboarder, but, well, lets just say he's no mechanic. Sled just runs and runs and runs.

    Dunno. Older sleds - say, 04+ - seems to me the choices are Revs or M7/8.

    NEW stuff - uhhh, skidoo? I guess Cats are ok, I rode a new Cat 800 (8000? dunno, the new cat mountain sled with 800cc 2stroke) last year, shrug, did not strike me either way as anything.

    Rode a Polaris Pro last year - brand new, 155", the "cool kid" sledneck whip. I was actually a bit apprehensive about it; I've heard LOTS of good things, did not want to find myself hating my XM. Not even freaking close - I'm pretty sure THAT pro was set up all wrong, because it sucked balls, felt like a tall ZX chassis, but beyond that, yow - Skidoo has pulled WAY ahead in terms of "professionalism." Fit and finish, whatever. The Skidoo is just a WAY nicer sled, imho.

    Without any bias, I'd find the dealer you like first, limit yourself to that/those brands. If you don't have a decent Skidoo dealer nearby....eh.

    if you DO have a decent Skidoo dealer nearby, that's the route I'd go. 16" wide tracks = more float per inch of length. Revs are awesome; XP and XM (and T3) are nicer still, but the difference between a Rev and an XM really is not THAT big.

    Some people don't like skidoo steering/ergos - ehhh sure they're a little different, but that's just it - different. Know no difference? You'll not notice one.

    I don't get into the whole "ford vs chevy" thing with snowmobiles. I have consumed a little of the Skidoo koolaid, though, I like their stuff.



    Iain

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