Maggot snowmobile thread

**Yukonrider** · 01-23-2018, 05:10 PM

Heat exchanger looks good, those types of scrapes are ok as long as they don't have green leaking out of them (coolant). I assume this is a carbed sled? I would set the idle to what the manual specifies, it shouldn't be that hard to do. The low idle could be a carb issue too, make sure you are jetted properly (I would however assume the shop did that).

That said, if you don't know how to do any of that yourself, I would just run it. Keep an eye on the coolant, and if the level doesn't change much (IE if it doesn't totally disappear, there is a lot of flex allowed but the reservoir should never run dry) I would just run it!

**shafty85** · 01-23-2018, 09:14 PM

That's what I figured regarding the rad.

Yes, it's a carb'd engine. Manual says to set the idle speed with a digital inductive type tachometer, syncing with the TPS module. I am stopping by the shop Saturday to pick up a cover and plugs for the gf's sled so will chat with them.

The shop didn't check the jets, though they were squeaky clean to my eyes when I had them out and didn't have the issue last season (this sled has always been on the island, so the factory jets should be the correct ones and I assume they weren't changed as there'd be no reason to), but can always pull them again if the issue persists after the idle is adjusted.

**eldereldo** · 01-24-2018, 07:59 AM

Posssible your radiator cap wasn’t completely tight? I did that first thing this season and it puked out enough coolant to cause the warning light to come on.

**pano-dude** · 01-24-2018, 10:47 AM

Found more damage when I went to install a new bumper on my summit. Pulled the skid plate off and the lower suspension mount is cracked. Slight tweak on the left lower a arm too.
More parts ordered.....

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**kidwoo** · 01-24-2018, 12:37 PM

Originally Posted by shafty85

That's what I figured regarding the rad.

Yes, it's a carb'd engine. Manual says to set the idle speed with a digital inductive type tachometer, syncing with the TPS module. I am stopping by the shop Saturday to pick up a cover and plugs for the gf's sled so will chat with them.

The shop didn't check the jets, though they were squeaky clean to my eyes when I had them out and didn't have the issue last season (this sled has always been on the island, so the factory jets should be the correct ones and I assume they weren't changed as there'd be no reason to), but can always pull them again if the issue persists after the idle is adjusted.

Carbs suck. Even though they may look squeaky clean, if you ever have them apart, clean them anyway. My rev always ran better after doing nothing more than disassembling and cleaning them.

You look like you might be running a little rich on your plugs (especially the pto side), which may be causing a little stutter/low idle.

**shafty85** · 01-24-2018, 01:35 PM

Originally Posted by eldereldo

Posssible your radiator cap wasn’t completely tight? I did that first thing this season and it puked out enough coolant to cause the warning light to come on.

Definitely possible.

Originally Posted by pano-dude

Found more damage when I went to install a new bumper on my summit. Pulled the skid plate off and the lower suspension mount is cracked. Slight tweak on the left lower a arm too.
More parts ordered.....

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Ugh - how much does that run?

Originally Posted by kidwoo

Carbs suck. Even though they may look squeaky clean, if you ever have them apart, clean them anyway. My rev always ran better after doing nothing more than disassembling and cleaning them.

You look like you might be running a little rich on your plugs (especially the pto side), which may be causing a little stutter/low idle.

Yeah - going to have the shop adjust the idle the proper way (is there a way to adjust the idle without a digital inductive type tachometer and the ski-doo software? Could I just adjust the throttle cable by adjusting the nuts?) and then will clean the carbs if that doesn't fix it. If that fixes it I'll just clean them at the start of next season. I agree that the PTO side looks like it's running a little rich - again, will leave it be if the idle speed fixes the issue I'll just keep an eye on the plugs and deal with it next season.

**cmcrawfo** · 01-24-2018, 01:45 PM

Originally Posted by pano-dude

Found more damage when I went to install a new bumper on my summit. Pulled the skid plate off and the lower suspension mount is cracked. Slight tweak on the left lower a arm too.
More parts ordered.....

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Ouch. So is that the whole Bulkhead (S-Module)?

**cmcrawfo** · 01-24-2018, 01:47 PM

It's loads of fun to replace

**kidwoo** · 01-24-2018, 01:57 PM

Originally Posted by shafty85

Yeah - going to have the shop adjust the idle the proper way (is there a way to adjust the idle without a digital inductive type tachometer and the ski-doo software? Could I just adjust the throttle cable by adjusting the nuts?) and then will clean the carbs if that doesn't fix it. If that fixes it I'll just clean them at the start of next season. I agree that the PTO side looks like it's running a little rich - again, will leave it be if the idle speed fixes the issue I'll just keep an eye on the plugs and deal with it next season.

I'm trying to remember, different builds had slightly different features. You shouldn't really adjust the throttle cable for idle. I think the ptek motors were different but they might still have idle screws on those, super easy. They're on top of the rack, two of them, and pretty obvious from what I remember. But I always had to bump mine up on my old rev when the carbs were 'dirty'.

I would just clean the needles/jets/ports/bowls/floats in your carbs and then make sure everything is in spec for your elevation and go from there.

**simple** · 01-24-2018, 02:09 PM

Originally Posted by cmcrawfo

It's loads of fun to replace

So many fucking rivets

**crashidy** · 01-24-2018, 02:55 PM

Bright side is you can replace with bolts and nuts so it will be easier next time.

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**teamdirt** · 01-24-2018, 03:56 PM

Originally Posted by pano-dude

Found more damage when I went to install a new bumper on my summit. Pulled the skid plate off and the lower suspension mount is cracked. Slight tweak on the left lower a arm too.
More parts ordered.....

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That bigger bumper your getting is going to equal more shit broken on the sled when you hit something. The energy of the impact is just transfered to the mounting points.

**pano-dude** · 01-24-2018, 04:25 PM

S module is Ok, lower suspension mount cracked.
Stripped suspension off last night, rivets tonight. Will bolt back together for sure.

My Buddy is a mechanic for rental /tour outfit here, they install the big bumpers and haven't had issues, more issues when skiis or a arms smash into something.

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**cmcrawfo** · 01-24-2018, 04:54 PM

Originally Posted by pano-dude

S module is Ok, lower suspension mount cracked.

So you talking about the cast metal piece that is riveted into the bulkhead? .. sorry, I don't know the exact nomenclature.

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If this entire piece is the s-module, are you talking about the piece circled in red?

....if we are talking about the same thing, my experience has been that if the piece circled in red is cracked there is usually some damage to the bulkhead. and replacing the entire bulkhead is significantly easier than just replacing the piece I circled in red. the three I have replaced I have all gone this way.

**cmcrawfo** · 01-24-2018, 05:03 PM

Originally Posted by cmcrawfo

So you talking about the cast metal piece that is riveted into the bulkhead? .. sorry, I don't know the exact nomenclature.

If this entire piece is the s-module, are you talking about the piece circled in red?

....if we are talking about the same thing, my experience has been that if the piece circled in red is cracked there is usually some damage to the bulkhead. and replacing the entire bulkhead is significantly easier than just replacing the piece I circled in red. the three I have replaced I have all gone this way.

I have also been told that the BRP mechanics just replace the entire unit, as the additional labour costs (and the potential cost associated with missing bulkhead damage) are more than than the cost of the complete unit. Getting that suspension mount over the two bolts in the bulkhead is a real pain in the ass.

.... the two things I enjoy most about sledding are the simplicity and the affordability.

**shafty85** · 01-24-2018, 05:32 PM

Originally Posted by cmcrawfo

.... the two things I enjoy most about sledding are the simplicity and the affordability.

That is sig worthy and I agree 100% after 1+ season of sledding.

**crashidy** · 01-28-2018, 09:12 PM

BC does not stuck right now. Deeeep

https://youtu.be/yIfy0ALOiwg

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**shafty85** · 01-28-2018, 11:47 PM

That doesn’t look fun at all...

Spent Saturday in the sunshine.

Practiced digging

Did actually do some riding, but no videos or photos, so did it really happen?

**simple** · 01-29-2018, 01:48 AM

Originally Posted by shafty85

Did actually do some riding, but no videos or photos, so did it really happen?

The best days are the ones that the camera is either frozen or doesn't come out at all

**shafty85** · 01-29-2018, 09:00 AM

Yeah, just being facetious.

How do people attach their decks? Looking to make my connection (currently 6 bolts through the bed) more sturdy.

**vanisle** · 01-29-2018, 12:47 PM

Originally Posted by shafty85

That doesn’t look fun at all...

Spent Saturday in the sunshine.

Practiced digging

Did actually do some riding, but no videos or photos, so did it really happen?

lol ive been stuck in the creek at the bottom of that sidehill.. wasnt fun
thats a great zone for learning though lots of traffic to help and nice when the roads are groomed.

**shafty85** · 01-29-2018, 08:19 PM

Haha, yeah - we spent a while digging out but lots of people were ripping in there!

**pano-dude** · 01-30-2018, 10:25 AM

Originally Posted by cmcrawfo

I have also been told that the BRP mechanics just replace the entire unit, as the additional labour costs (and the potential cost associated with missing bulkhead damage) are more than than the cost of the complete unit. Getting that suspension mount over the two bolts in the bulkhead is a real pain in the ass.

.... the two things I enjoy most about sledding are the simplicity and the affordability.

Yup cast piece cracked. Was not that bad to get out. Air chisel cuts if the rivets like butter.
Popped the bolts out and it slid right out.
New parts go in tonight.

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**simple** · 01-30-2018, 11:18 AM

Don't do skidoo without grip n rip braces

**cmcrawfo** · 01-30-2018, 11:42 AM

Originally Posted by simple

Don't do skidoo without grip n rip braces

I thought about bracing the s-module ... however.... with a busted s module, I have still been able to ride home. Every time. If the s module doesn't crack, it would be an a-arm. And sledding out without an a-arm ranges from difficult to impossible.

Good working getting that in. You could moonlight as a mechanic.