Maggot snowmobile thread

[pano-dude]

Tree 1, bumper 0.

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[crashidy]

Tree 1, bumper 0.

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Rec supply co had the best pricing on new ones. Haha. Hopefully you faired better than the bumper.

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[pano-dude]

Ordered a custom bumper, beefier. Was a pretty slow crunch, no personal body damage lol.

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[cmcrawfo]

I prefer my bumper to crumple, rather than my bulkhead. That energy has to go somewhere.

[pano-dude]

Agreed but the bumper folded easier than a beer can getting stepped on. To easy.

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[teamdirt]

Agreed but the bumper folded easier than a beer can getting stepped on. To easy.

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Any damage under hood- damage to wear the bumper attatches to sled?
Beefier bumper equals transferred energy to where the bumper fastens to the sled. So instead of the bumper crumpling the frame crumples equals bigger headache-more money...

[pano-dude]

No internal damage, I thought the pipe was going to have a dent but all clear. My decision to go beefier was to protect the pipe, squashed pipe means getting towed or heli ride home.

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[Yukonrider]

As the track of my sled rolled over my face yesterday I was reminded how important wearing a tether is.

PLEASE install and WEAR a tether.

One thing I do to make it easier to use is put one of those gift style carabiners on the metal latch, it makes putting on and taking off the tether much easier with gloves on. Also if the rubber button is hard to press on, smearing some silicone lube on the rubber, will make it pop on (and off) easier.

[kidwoo]

No internal damage, I thought the pipe was going to have a dent but all clear. My decision to go beefier was to protect the pipe, squashed pipe means getting towed or heli ride home.

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check you s-module/ Nun thing on the front of the chassis. It's kind of a ski doo think. They crumple like foil.

[simple]

Good to check but s modules do fine in bumper smashes. Lower a arm smash will kill the s module. So many rivets

[cmcrawfo]

No internal damage, I thought the pipe was going to have a dent but all clear. My decision to go beefier was to protect the pipe, squashed pipe means getting towed or heli ride home.

You can actually do pretty well with a hole in your pipe.

[pano-dude]

As the track of my sled rolled over my face yesterday I was reminded how important wearing a tether is.

PLEASE install and WEAR a tether.

One thing I do to make it easier to use is put one of those gift style carabiners on the metal latch, it makes putting on and taking off the tether much easier with gloves on. Also if the rubber button is hard to press on, smearing some silicone lube on the rubber, will make it pop on (and off) easier.

Buddy did not attach his tether last week after ski touring day. Got bucked sled rolled over, righted the sled hit the start button and off it went into a tree. 2k in parts damage, all plastic, bumper, pipe....

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[kidwoo]

Buddy did not attach his tether last week after ski touring day. Got bucked sled rolled over, righted the sled hit the start button and off it went into a tree. 2k in parts damage, all plastic, bumper, pipe....

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So much for throttle safety switches.

fuck

[Judo Chop!]

hey Mags,
Just joined the snowpony club this season so thought I should check in here. Mostly for ski access (yeah... they all say that).
It's been fun being a total JONG and trying to figure out how to get less stuck. good times. stoked for where this will take me in the mountains. and way cool for getting out more often now that I'm a dad and can only sneak away for a few hours at a time.

[pano-dude]

So much for throttle safety switches.

fuck

Yup 2016 summit, not even off break in mode yet.

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[pano-dude]

hey Mags,
Just joined the snowpony club this season so thought I should check in here. Mostly for ski access (yeah... they all say that).
It's been fun being a total JONG and trying to figure out how to get less stuck. good times. stoked for where this will take me in the mountains. and way cool for getting out more often now that I'm a dad and can only sneak away for a few hours at a time.

One lesson to live by, when in doubt throttle it out!

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[shafty85]

We now have thing one and thing two.



Ironically, with this huge storm cycle, we are off to the wet coast for the weekend - hopefully FL cooperates and we can sled in the pass out that way. Definitely not surfing as they are forecasting 9m swells, which is slightly out of my league...

[eldereldo]

Been good sledding lately.

[shafty85]

So, I must admit - I didn't even check my coolant level prior to the season. Got out for our first rides this past weekend - when we got back I noticed my coolant was also empty. I'm new to the sledding world - should my sled burn/lose coolant naturally or should I be checking for a leak somewhere? If so, any usual suspects to check? Sled is a 154 2008 Summit 800. I just filled the coolant up and will pay attention to it my next ride but would prefer to do preventative maintenance than get stuck out there if it's leaking into the engine or anything like that...

I did notice that it was idling at ~1400rpm (manual says 1900 is ideal, but it was just set by the shop so I wasn't too worried about that number) but it would slow down the rpms if left at idle, eventually stalling out if I didn't rev it up. It also wouldn't start for me to unload it when we got home. Ideas? Thoughts? Musings?

[simple]

check your lower radiator at the front of your track. it gets hit sometimes.

[shafty85]

Ah - I did hit a rock and got very stuck a few times. I’ll check that out thanks. Is that a simple fix, should it be damaged, or more complex?

My plan is to fill with coolant start it up and see what I see...

[crashidy]

The coolant shouldn't disappear, but when the sled is warm and the coolant disperses through the system the level will appear to drop. But when it is cold the bottle should fill back to the low/mid level.
As for the stalling it might be worth a compression check. That is usually a sign of decreasing compression. I know you just had the carb/raves apart. I would double check that stuff too.

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[simple]

My plan is to fill with coolant start it up and see what I see...

oh I assumed you filled it up already. Agreed with crashidy that the coolant get sucked into engine. Pop the cap when cool and you should get coolant into the overflow reservoir. You may not have low coolant at all.

[shafty85]

Yeah, engine was cold when I checked (long drive home). Filled over lunch today - still full now that I’m home. Gonna lift it up, check for visual damage on the rad, do a compression test and start it up.


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[shafty85]

Checked compression - 140 pto 142 mag. Last season they read 140/140 (I’m assuming it’s the same this year and the 142 was a rounding difference. Idled at 1500 for 5+min. Coolant still all there and no signs of any leaks. I did determine the idling issue is after it comes down in rpm - ie, I would rev (little pun there, it’s a rev chassis) to 3000 then when it came down it would sink to ~1100 and slowly try to die. A little rev and it would start idling at 1500 again no issue. Would this be cable stretch maybe? Or the difference between the recommended 1900rpm idle and the 1500 it is currently idling at? In theory it would only come down to 1600, likely not want to stall and bring itself back up to 1900?

Only sign of damage I could find on the radiator.


Pto side spark (new this season)


Mag side (also new)


Gave them a wipe before they went back in.

Might run it this week and see how it goes. Possibly adjust the idle if that’s the only issue that remains.