TR: Capital Peak 4.28.08

[goldenboy]

Capital Peak via "The Green Line", AKA the "secret chute".

cjw, agave afish, don pedro, goldenboy, Sean. 4.28.08


"You think you're ready, you think you're prepared. You know it's going to be hard. And then you get there and... [silence]" -Ted M., paraphrased from a phone conversation last week after he and Al B. skied Capital.


I've had a long time to think about this mountain. We were within 4 or 5 hundred vertical feet two years ago, but the face was too hot. cjw and don pedro had been even closer on another attempt. Last year, we never gave it a go- conditions were never what we had hoped they would be. For the past two weeks, we have been waiting, planning, watching, and hoping to get another chance. Saturday afternoon, we took the chance and headed out on the long drive to Aspen. Sean, don pedro and I ate at the white house in Carbondale, where Lou came by to wish us luck. Then we drove up to Snowmass Village where Greguar and grskier were kind enough to give us some couch space (Thanks guys!). Sunday morning, we started off from the Snowmass Creek trailhead at around 8,300' with hopes of making it a few miles in to set up a basecamp. We met some guys coming back from a descent of Mt. Daly, so we had a skintrack to follow. They even found the summer trail:


Finally, we broke out of the forest and got a good look at the East face of Daly, which we also hoped to ski if things went well on Capital:


We set up camp right below Daly, next to a little opening in the snow where we could access the creek rather than melt snow. Sean started making fun of don pedro and I as we tried to get our campsite perfectly level: "Hey guys, we need a level over here." We all laughed, and then cjw comes over with his iphone, which had a level


With our perfectly flat campsite, we turned in around 8pm, and surprisingly I slept pretty well until our 2:30 wake-up call. The moon wasn't huge, but it was still nice to have:


And then the sun came up:


Sunrise on Daly:


Rather than take the scary and time-consuming knife edge ridge from K2 all the way to the summit, we opted to climb our chute first, which would get us close to the summit without much difficult climbing. We headed to a notch in the ridge and dropped down the "one-in-a-million" couloir to Pierre Lakes basin, which is probably the most amazing alpine area I've ever been to. Now we got a look at what was ahead- all we have to do is get up there:


At this point, Sean called it a day. While he has tried Capital before, and knew what he was getting into, I guess he had to see it one more time before officially retiring from fourteener skiing, just a little shy of his goal. "I've got a kid, it changes you, it just does", he said. Sean wished us well and we entered the secret chute (gb + cjw):


don pedro tops out on the secret chute:


Well, we're closer. Just a few hundred feet to go...


I started leading this section, knowing that I would soon be the weakest link once the climbing got more difficult.


cjw + aa:


don pedro:


Then it was time for don pedro to lead:


aa and cjw had a conference at this point. While the climbing was well within their abilities, they were having a hard time picturing skiing down any of it. Eventually, they decided to continue. We watched while don pedro led this steep snow pitch to regain the ridge, which I then followed.


And then, I cracked. That's the only way to describe it. I've done plenty of exposed 4th class climbing, and I used to be able to lead 5.10 back when I climbed more often, but the exposure and the snow and the loose rock and the awkward skis did me in, and I cracked. From that point on the ridge onward, cjw had me tied in to a little 75' rope on all the other rock pitches. Quite literally, I would not have made it without him (or dp and aa, for that matter). aa, higher:


aa nearing the summit:


self portrait on the summit:


At the trailhead, I made fun of cjw for having copies of "The Economist" and "The New Yorker" in his pack. So he decided to put them to good use:


It took 3 hours to get from ~13,600' to the 14,130' summit. It was now afternoon, but some high clouds in the morning and a steady breeze had kept the snow from getting too wet. Still, on one of my first turns I sent the top 3" off the East face in a small wet slide. Sean must have had quite a view of that from the valley floor. This made us nervous, so we made lots of deliberate ski cuts, though nothing ever moved like the first one. don pedro:




cjw:


back to don pedro:




Hey look, there's a cairn under my feet, we must be on route


agave afish. Notice our ascent route:


gb:


One short rappel through the top of the secret chute, and things felt considerably better. Gotta have a dav shot:


I have no idea how this cornice can stick there:


We did suffer one set back at this point, however. Don pedro's ropes dug into the cornice when we tried to retrieve them, and try as we might, we could not free them. Given the time and temperature, we sadly ended up leaving them rather than climbing back up to retrieve them.. They were soon to be retired, but it was still a bummer. So if anyone goes up there, you've got some ropes to use, though don pedro would of course like them back.

don pedro skiing the secret chute:


gb, enjoying some good snow in Pierre lakes basin:


A look back at the peak and our tracks:

[goldenboy]

Here I head towards the One-in-a-million couloir, so called because everything else is a wall of rock:


Sean had left before us, so we were excited to have a bootpack out. dp in one-in-a-million:


Once at the top of the couloir, we had 2,000' of corn and pow below us to get to the campsite. We decided to make a couple of calls and let people know we were OK:


agave afish heads to camp:


dp:


We climbed Daly the next day. This is what Capital looks like from there:


Perhaps someday that face will also see ski tracks. The S-shaped couloir goes from the ridge, it just needs a couple of raps out. Cjw took this shot two years ago, and is the best view of our route:



Ted M sent me an email offering his congrats, and then he asked if any of us would ever do it again. The answer for me is a resounding NO, under any circumstances. I watched somebody fall and come within inches of falling to their death skiing Capital on Monday. There's no way to sugarcoat that. Think long and hard about what you're doing and why you're doing it before attempting Capital.

[Huckwheat]

HOLY SHIT YES.

SUCH A HUGE CONGRATULATIONS TO YOU ALL.......that is just amazing. Very happy everyone is safe. I was nervous just knowing this was coming up.

The new route looks like it makes alot of sense.....did Dav's route go this year? What was the decision making process between those two?

The story too.....Goldenboy cracking (no offense, just cannot imagine how most of us would freak out), and taking "3 hours to get from ~13,600' to the 14,130' summit."

What was the story at the bottom? Who did you see fall on Monday? Did I miss something?

[skadams.ca]

Nicely done! Great TR

[summit]

OMG SICK!

[lemon boy]

sickest
picture
ever
posted
here
period.

Nice, nice nice dude.

[Cruiser]

Wow!
Beautiful pics + a stunning line = Hall of Fame TR

[Rontele]

gb,

thanks for sharing both an incredible, butt puckering TR and being candid about your own experience.

congratulations!

[Joey Joe Joe Junior Shabadoo]

WOW, simply incredible. I'm not even sure what to say about this shot...

[MOHSHSIHd]

Sickness.

You gotta send this in to The New Yorker:

[brutah]

congrats! That looks to truly be a ski mountaineering accomplishment. 14er season is going off in colorado this year!

[highflyingpilot]

sick fucking shit indeed

[Lloyd Braun]

Congrats! The Elks deliver again!

[Rontele]

gb,

so your variation is ostensibly the Davenport/Biedelman route, but you guys enter the secret chute after the East Face rather than traverse to the south like Davenport?

I've read this three times already!

[MrZach]

Jeebus.

Two butterfly-in-stomach TR reads in one day - damn.

Kudos.

[FrankZappa]

Holy !!!
Knowing whats below this

My butt is perma-puckered!


HuDge KUDOS GB & crew!!! That's sooo frickin cool!

[pdiddy]

That was fucking unbelievable, congratulations.

Now I need to change my underwear.

[renoenvy]

Dude, I'm all, speechless.

[telepariah]

Bloody FKNA Hell! That was awesome! I agree with LB about the sickest pic ever posted. I just stopped and looked at that for the longest time before scrolling down. I can safely say I will not be doing that or anything near as hard ever in my life. Amazing.

[adimmen]

Looking at those pictures brings back a flood of emotions. I can actually feel my heart rate increasing. Way to go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[altabird92]

Possibly the best TR of the year.
The creativity is incredible. That line gives me shivers, but makes me want to head in that direction.

[Don Pedro]

Yo GB,

I heard the video is beyond sick. I guess the pictures don't do it any justice compared.

[lemon boy]

Yo GB,

I heard the video is beyond sick. I guess the pictures don't do it any justice compared.

Do want!

hmmmm

maybe I don't!

no I do.

[lemon boy]

crap, I just realized that I bet I'm going to have to wait all summer to see that at the TH movie. Oh well...

[Ireallyliketoski2]

The respect for the mountain shines through, great work and great perspective.