Potential build kit...

[truth]

With the intense frame (large) this build comes in 26.03 lbs. I'm a total JONG as to modern components. Grill me on what was radnasty in 1996 and I'm all over it. Now, not so much. Am I on the right track here? Anywhere I can shave some weight without losing durability? I'm a clydesdale not a phUnk doll.

FRAME:

Intense 5.5 EVP / Blur LT / Ibis Mojo

Front Suspension Fork:

Fox 32 TALAS RLC

Brake:

Avid Juicy 7 2008 - 160mm Rear Rotor 160mm Front Rotor

Cassettes:

SRAM PG-990 Cassette 11/34

Chains:

SRAM PC-991 Chain

Cranks:

Shimano XTR Hollowtech II Crankset FC-M970 175mm

Front Derailleurs:

Shimano XTR Front Derailleur - Top Swing FD-M970 34.9mm

Grips:

Intense ODI Lock-On logo, Black

Handlebars:

Easton Monkeylite XC Handlebar Riser Lo 31.8mm

Headset:

Crank Brothers Iodine SL Headset

Pedals:

Crank Brothers Egg Beater Ti Pedals

Rear Derailleurs:

SRAM X.0 Rear Derailleur Long

Rear Shock:

Fox Float RP23

Saddles:

Selle Italia Flite Gel Flow Saddle Black

Seatpost:

Thomson Elite Seatpost Black 410mm 31.6mm

Shifter:

SRAM X.O Shorty Twist Shifters

Stems:

Ritchey PRO OS Stem 110mm

Bar Ends:

None

Computers:

None

Water Bottle Cages:

None

Rims - Front:

DT Swiss XR4.2d Rim 32 Hole

Rims - Rear:

DT Swiss XR4.2d Rim 32 Hole

Front Hubs:

DT Swiss 190 Ceramic Centerlock Front Hub 32 Hole

Rear Hubs:

DT Swiss 190 Ceramic Centerlock Rear Hub 32 Hole

Rimstrips:

Velox Fond de Jante Rimstrip 17mm

Skewers:

DT Swiss RWS Thru Bolt Set

Tubes:

Continental MTB Light Tube

Spokes:

DT Swiss Competition 14/15g Black (2.0/1.8mm) Spokes

Spoke Nipples:

DT Swiss 2.0mm Alloy Silver Nipples

Tires - Front:

Kenda Blue Groove 26" Stick-E, Kevlar Bead 2.1

Tires - Rear:

Kenda Blue Groove 26" Stick-E, Kevlar Bead 2.1

[Rontele]

The weight savings vs. cost of Ti pedals is certainly not worth it. I also think you may be happier with something like the Acid or at least the Candy over the egg beater. Having some sort of platform to rest your feet on either while starting on a hill or unclipping on a descent.

I've never been a fan of Avid brakes, but that is just personal. They are easy to service and find replacement parts for, however.

If you're not hellbent on shaving the last gram either, I think that XTR and X0 is kind of a waste. The performance of XT/X9 is comparable and the cost savings tremendous. Especially if you're a bigger guy, the weight savings are just not worth it.

110 mm stem also seems a bit long, but go on how it fits.

Finally, I'd get a bigger tire than a 2.1 if this is going to be a more all mountain ride.

[truth]

The weight savings vs. cost of Ti pedals is certainly not worth it. I also think you may be happier with something like the Acid or at least the Candy over the egg beater. Having some sort of platform to rest your feet on either while starting on a hill or unclipping on a descent.

I've never been a fan of Avid brakes, but that is just personal. They are easy to service and find replacement parts for, however.

If you're not hellbent on shaving the last gram either, I think that XTR and X0 is kind of a waste. The performance of XT/X9 is comparable and the cost savings tremendous. Especially if you're a bigger guy, the weight savings are just not worth it.

110 mm stem also seems a bit long, but go on how it fits.

Finally, I'd get a bigger tire than a 2.1 if this is going to be a more all mountain ride.

I'm used to running old school 747 spuds so I'm not too concerned about the platform. I might even run my old pedals, but spec'd those just cuz I needed to spec something. Learned to ride tech trails that way so it's a non issue for me. The XTR cranks are pretty bomber, X0 vs X9 you're probably spot on. The front derailiuer is pretty safe from crash damage so I'm ok with shaving a few grams there. Stem length was a guess. Went longish but fitment will dictate. Same goes for the seat / seatpost. I'll most likely use a specialized seat but it was not on the menu. I'm really more concerned with fork, handlebar and tire choices. I'd hate to snap a bar and I know nothing of the other two. What the hell does All-Mountain mean? I just ride.

[Rontele]

I think the fork you've spec'd is going to be a great match for that bike. Handlebars are personal, but I've never used a carbon bar because the weight savings over the peace of mind is just not worth it. Finally, get at least a 2.3 tire.

[truth]

I think the fork you've spec'd is going to be a great match for that bike. Handlebars are personal, but I've never used a carbon bar because the weight savings over the peace of mind is just not worth it. Finally, get at least a 2.3 tire.

Doh, didn't realize those bars were cf. I ride cf bars on my road bike and even there it kinda sketches me out, especially now that I'm out west as they don't inspire the same confidence on descents. May very well be swapping them back out for the AL bars. They do make life much easier on the hands though.

[XtrPickels]

Also, It seems that the bluegroove front paired with a nevegal rear is the ticket. I'm running 2.3 front and 2.1 rear.

[shirk]

The platform on 747's is much bigger than eggbeaters. I'd stick with something you know to start back into the game then make the switch to eggbeaters once your back up to speed.

Some people hate the Blue Groove tire. Switch to 2.3 Nevegals. It's the most well loved tire by everyone from xc guys to dh'ers.

[Andy_B]

DO you need the 410mm seat post? Maybe start long then chop`er down.

Get a Short or Med cage rear mech, drop the long cage. It will be a rock/stump magnet.

[frorider]

so you're planning on using the converters for 6 hole-to-centerlock? if so, there are two options -- the DT converters, and some aftermarket converters that one of the big online places (jensonusa.com or pricepoint.com, i forget which) carry.

those who know will usually give the nod to the formula oro bianco's over the avid 7's. fyi the formula brakes can be bled using the avid bleed kit. my biancos are new (only 40 miles of riding) but already i can tell i prefer them to any juicy 7's i've ridden. go with teh 180 mm front / 160 mm rear discs.

in terms of rims on an all mtn bike like this (e.g. blur LT), most would agree that going wider is better. (i.e. some of us knew this years ago; the general population has caught on to this now and is less obsessed with super light but narrow rims). one popular choice for a 5-6 inch travel all mtn bike is the stan's flow rim, which can be run tubeless directly (i.e. no rubber rim strip req'd). another approach i favor for this type of bike is a mavic 819 UST rim on the rear (clydesdale strong, and the UST aspect means easy mounting w/ UST tires and no pinch flat issues. But the 819 is narrow and useless for a front rim.) with a light but wide rim up front (DT 5.1 is a popular choice).

i think there are better forks for this bike than the talas RLC, but that's a whole 'nother topic.

for a bike like this i see no issue w/ carbon bars. just make sure they are installed correctly. Alu bars, at tleast the light ones, fail too. If you go alu, go with a low-rise but wide bar that is 7075 aluminum. my current faves are the syncros Bulk bar, and the sunline v1.

in terms of what has changed over the years, a general trend has been toward shorter stems and wider bars for any bike that's not being used for geeky lycra XC racing. most good shops know this but occasionally i see a shop build up a blinged out bike with old-school long stem and narrow-a$$ bars. . to give you an idea, on my 5.5 inch travel all mtn bike i'm running a 70 mm stem and approx 690 mm wide bars (i.e. around 27 inches). for average-height riders (i.e. shorter than I am at 6" 3"), 60 or 50 mm stem. Don't worry about feeling too cramped in the cockpit -- that's where the wide bars come in. this kind of setup will let you rail the turns on the descent, which is what it's all about.

re: headset -- i have no direct experience w/ the crank bros.; it doesn't really have a track record yet does it? personally i prefer chris king for any single crown fork under 6 inches of travel.

re: tires -- don't sweat it too much. easily replaced. at your weight you really want to go tubeless on the rear. kenda nevegal's not the best choice for that. tire choice is a function of many things -- what rim, what terrain, etc. For my all mtn bikes, i've used kenda/hutchinson/maxxis/continental/you name it, and currently prefer the geax 2.25 sturdy UST (which is bigger than, say, a 2.35 maxxis) on a UST rim for the rear wheel. However you might prefer a lighter tire. again, many options.

[truth]

so you're planning on using the converters for 6 hole-to-centerlock? if so, there are two options -- the DT converters, and some aftermarket converters that one of the big online places (jensonusa.com or pricepoint.com, i forget which) carry.

those who know will usually give the nod to the formula oro bianco's over the avid 7's. fyi the formula brakes can be bled using the avid bleed kit. my biancos are new (only 40 miles of riding) but already i can tell i prefer them to any juicy 7's i've ridden. go with teh 180 mm front / 160 mm rear discs.

in terms of rims on an all mtn bike like this (e.g. blur LT), most would agree that going wider is better. (i.e. some of us knew this years ago; the general population has caught on to this now and is less obsessed with super light but narrow rims). one popular choice for a 5-6 inch travel all mtn bike is the stan's flow rim, which can be run tubeless directly (i.e. no rubber rim strip req'd). another approach i favor for this type of bike is a mavic 819 UST rim on the rear (clydesdale strong, and the UST aspect means easy mounting w/ UST tires and no pinch flat issues. But the 819 is narrow and useless for a front rim.) with a light but wide rim up front (DT 5.1 is a popular choice).

i think there are better forks for this bike than the talas RLC, but that's a whole 'nother topic.

for a bike like this i see no issue w/ carbon bars. just make sure they are installed correctly. Alu bars, at tleast the light ones, fail too. If you go alu, go with a low-rise but wide bar that is 7075 aluminum. my current faves are the syncros Bulk bar, and the sunline v1.

in terms of what has changed over the years, a general trend has been toward shorter stems and wider bars for any bike that's not being used for geeky lycra XC racing. most good shops know this but occasionally i see a shop build up a blinged out bike with old-school long stem and narrow-a$$ bars. . to give you an idea, on my 5.5 inch travel all mtn bike i'm running a 70 mm stem and approx 690 mm wide bars (i.e. around 27 inches). for average-height riders (i.e. shorter than I am at 6" 3"), 60 or 50 mm stem. Don't worry about feeling too cramped in the cockpit -- that's where the wide bars come in. this kind of setup will let you rail the turns on the descent, which is what it's all about.

re: headset -- i have no direct experience w/ the crank bros.; it doesn't really have a track record yet does it? personally i prefer chris king for any single crown fork under 6 inches of travel.

re: tires -- don't sweat it too much. easily replaced. at your weight you really want to go tubeless on the rear. kenda nevegal's not the best choice for that. tire choice is a function of many things -- what rim, what terrain, etc. For my all mtn bikes, i've used kenda/hutchinson/maxxis/continental/you name it, and currently prefer the geax 2.25 sturdy UST (which is bigger than, say, a 2.35 maxxis) on a UST rim for the rear wheel. However you might prefer a lighter tire. again, many options.

Wow...thanks. Some of that I agree with, some maybe not. I guess the bike is technically AM but my riding style is much more XC. The DT 4.2's are 23.7mm vs the Stans 28. I shudder at having to run sealant in a tire. Please do elaborate on the fork though.

[cowdog]

My 2 cents:

I'd go Pike over the 32 Talas for any of those bikes. Maxle is stiffer and tracks better. Pike is nice fork.

Formula or Magura brakes. People are raving about Formula.

Have you used eggbeaters? I hated them. Time pedals just keep going and going for me. If I didn't use Time ATAC pedals, I'd probably go with Shitmano.

Syntace Vector carbon riser bars. 10 year warranty. 12 deg sweep. Haven't used these, but they are on my radar. Personally I'm not too worried about carbon fiber bars for XC/trail use. Check them thoroughly after any crash. I used Easton and now Answer protaper carbon bars without issue. I'm 200ish with gear.

Headset will be different for the mojo than for the blur LT or 5.5. Mojo uses something more like an integrated/zerostack headset.

If you can wait, Blur LT2 and the new, as yet unnamed 5.5 replacement from Intense look sweet!

You might consider 819 rims if you want the option of running tires tubeless, which I think works really slick.

Tires are more personal and local and condition dependent.

BTW, if you are open to other frames, you might look at Turner 5spot, Ventana El Ciclon, Knolly Endorphin, Yeti 575. I like VPP and would probably love DW-Link, but lots of bikes with other, less exotic suspension designs kick ass when done well. The previous list does good job with their bikes.

[m1e448]

my observations are:

Those hubs are really nice, but 240s are nice and don't break the bank and come in the iso 6 hole standard.

If you go for the centerlock hubs, I think the xtr discs or even the new xt work really well.
As for Rims, I'd go with Stan's, Mavic 717 0r 819, or the DT's you have spec'd

XTR crankset is a solid choice

Easton monkeylite cnt lowrise is the bar to have 660mm or maybe a Salsa promoto carbon flat bar in the 26" length. I wouldn't worry about carbon bars. They are solid now a days and every bit as stiff as AL unless you are a downhiller that wrecks lots.

XTR or Time pedals, crankbeaters aren't good in my opinion.

Go with a King or Cane Creek 110 headset. If you don't want to spend as much just get a Cane creek s-6 or something for $40.

You pretty much want to run tubeless if you are getting such a bling wheelset, forget your notions and go ride them with lower air pressure and more flat resistance. They are a set it and forget it thing until you are ready to change tires every month or so. If you like to swap tires lots and only have one wheelset them maybe not for you.

[flyby]

Also, you could lose some weight by getting the Thomson Masterpiece post instead of the Elite...

yeah, and you could cut it off real short like and save an ounce

[flowtron]

Definitely ditch those hubs. Get normal 6 bolt.
Go with a King HS, let others do crank bros 1st year product testing.
Thomson x-4 stem.

[pechelman]

whats the deal with all the centerlock rotor hating?
I mean I dont have them cause I have 6 bolt rotors, but really, it seems like the smarter and better interface, especially if running a floating rotor.

Ive never fiddled with one or looked at one closely enough, but im under the impression that
-the rotor has a very snug interface to the splines torsionally
-the lockring, similar to a cassette lockring, applies a very even and strong clamping force
-no worry about warping a rotor because of this
-dont have to locktite 6 individual bolts
-no load peaking on the rotor or hub interface = lighter weight design

cons seem to be a short list
-more expensive rotors?
-worse case for heat transfer from the rotor into the hub bearings (not a big deal though for this app...and not the case with a floating rotor.)
-*another* "industry standard"
-obviously something else?

[flowtron]

The spline interface is not that sweet. Most of the c-lock hub/rotor combos I've encountered have a little bit of movement front-to-back.

[truth]

The spline interface is not that sweet. Most of the c-lock hub/rotor combos I've encountered have a little bit of movement front-to-back.

Makes sense, but is it a bad thing or just different?

[kidwoo]

whats the deal with all the centerlock rotor hating?

Nothing if you happen to be stoked on a bunch of play in your rotors.

Those rivets come loose.

[Crinkle]

i'd upgrade those rims, understandably your style is more XC but your scale doesn't show your inner weight wennie and it will put AM forces on those wheels going DH. Once you get up to speed they might not have enough burl. Your contact patch with the ground will be better with a 2.3, granted increased rotational weight. the rest looks tits. Carbon bars aren't anything to worry about especially if your style is XC. RT is just paranoid about breaking something he isn't capable of breaking in the first place

[pechelman]

and there we go
simple answer
thanks

[truth]

Thanks for all the advice. Here's where I stand with the build specs:

Front Suspension Fork: Fox 32 TALAS RLC
Brake: Formula Oro Bianco 160mm Rear Rotor 180mm Front Rotor, Post Mount
Cassettes: SRAM PG-990 Cassette 11/32
Chains: SRAM PC-991 Hollow Pin Chain
Cranks: Shimano XTR Hollowtech II Crankset FC-M970 175mm
Front Derailleurs: SRAM X-9 Low Clamp Front Derailleur Top Pull 34.9mm
Grips: Intense Stand Black/Grey
Handlebars: Easton Monkeylite XC Handlebar Riser Lo 25.4mm
Headset: Crank Brothers Iodine SL Headset
Pedals: Shimano XTR Pedals PD-M970
Rear Derailleurs: SRAM X-9 Rear Derailleur Medium
Rear Shock: Fox Float RP23
Saddles: WTB Rocket V SLT Saddle Silver/Black
Seatpost: Thomson Elite Seatpost Black 367mm 31.6mm
Shifter: SRAM X.O Shorty Twist Shifters
Stems: Thomson X4 Stem Black 70mm 90 Degree
Rims - Front: Stan's No Tubes ZTR Flow Rim 26
Rims - Rear: Mavic XM 819 Disc UST, Black 32
Front Hubs: DT Swiss 240s Disc, 32 Hole, Black Black 32
Rear Hubs: DT Swiss 240s Disc, 135mm, 32 Hole, Black Black 32
Skewers: DT Swiss RWS Thru Bolt Set
Spokes: DT Swiss Competition 14/15g Black (2.0/1.8mm) Spokes
Spoke Nipples: DT Swiss 2.0mm Brass Nipples Silver
Tires - Front: Continental Mountain King UST Tire 26 x 2.4
Tires - Rear: Continental Mountain King UST Tire 26 x 2.2

With a large Intense 5.5 evp frame the scale should read 11,998 grams or 26.45 lbs. Just wondering if the 819 is actually stronger than the Flow for the rear wheel?

[tromano]

Looks like a sweet build.

You could save $100 or so if you take x.9 shifters instead of the X.0

" ZTR Flow Rim 32H
Rim Features: A great rim for all mountain, heavy duty trail use as well as slalom, mountain cross, or Super-D events Welded joint Black anodized finish FEA optimized center arch for.."

Sounds pretty strong to me.

[m1e448]

The x4 stem needs a 31.8mm handlebar and the monkeylite you have spec'd is a 25.4mm. Run the same rims front and rear go with stans

[truth]

The x4 stem needs a 31.8mm handlebar and the monkeylite you have spec'd is a 25.4mm.

There are too many choices in the drop down menus!