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  1. #51
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    267
    Then JClark should be at top of your list...sorta...has the pub now, but as a teenager, fits your descrip to a T. That Rollins mofo was bricks.

    Btw, that monster right pic, obviously a tow in, Peahi?

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Park City Utah baby
    Posts
    216
    Quote Originally Posted by Microcosm View Post
    Niiiice pic. That's looks sick.
    The biggest I've been in was Ernesto the summer before this past one, not as big as that picture though. That was plenty big for me and I didn't get a chance to get into anything bigger this year. One of the guards was saying there were 12ft waves occasionally, but I'm not sure about that one.
    I was scared shitless while I was out, but I was only 14 at the time. Hell, I'd still be scared now. I got one wave.


    via Surfline
    The GREEN ROOM!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    In the shadow of the wasatch
    Posts
    2,676

    Hell Swell

    Halloween weekend in 91 or 92. The Storm that was "The Perfect Storm" was spinning off of the NE sending huge pulses at Fl. I drove up and down Brevard county looking for something makeable and there were 2 options, inside port canaveral and outside reef at RC's. Talked to Matt Kechele in the lot at RC's and he convinced me to paddle out... on a 6'8"! He was on a 7'6" and Bill Hartley was on something bigger and single fin. They were calling it 15 ft +. I was 16 and shitting myself. It looked kinda soft from the beach but was pitching top to bottom and moving in slow motion when I got out. I caught one wave and then took a 10 wave set to the head and was done.

    The other day that stands out was Hermosa in Costa in May of 2001. Paddled out behind the Cabinas early in the morning with some folks I met the night before. Timed it right and got out dry hair. Then the sets started coming in from the south and they were hudge, as big as hell swell but more power. Survived a couple then drove up to Boca Barranca and it was 6-8 and going for 1000 yards all the way from the rivermouth down the point and around the corner without a drop of water out of place. Ride one till the end, take it to the beach, walk up the beach and jump in the river and ride the current back out to the peak. Sketchiest place to park a car EVER! Leave nothing in the car, roll the windows down and leave the keys on the seat. The thief's don't want the car and the last thing you want to do is drive back to Hermosa sitting on broken glass.... Ask me how I know....

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    267
    both jersey pics super manageable for when jersey/NE gets overhead. first one lollipop shoulder, second one shallower, but way easier than the previous couple days before it blew west and cleaned up....still sweeeet

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Burlington, VT
    Posts
    302
    Quote Originally Posted by cito View Post
    Like I said, don't take it literally. Not being toughguy, but believe me, 8' in 2" doesn't faze me. I'm trying to be believable. And if you think 25' shiz in those scenarios doesn't get the redic's blood and nerves going nuts, your kidding yourself.

    People I respect most are those that walk into your backyard break in gnarl conditions and rip in a way that makes you think, "that shits fucking fake". Only thing that tops that is when you get props.
    Word. There's this one older guy that's often bodyboarding where I go and on the biggest days he will drop into closeouts just because they're the biggest waves of the day.

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    267
    Micro,
    That's what wompin' all about tho. Stick a 6 or 7' piece of fi-glass in there, way different story. Goal to get drilled vs. goal to avoid being drilled. But word up mic.

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    267
    Forgot to mention, old dude wouldn't go by the name of cheetah, would he? (semi-bald in shape bro?)

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