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Thread: Biggest surf you've ridden?
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02-21-2008, 11:02 PM #51Registered User
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Then JClark should be at top of your list...sorta...has the pub now, but as a teenager, fits your descrip to a T. That Rollins mofo was bricks.
Btw, that monster right pic, obviously a tow in, Peahi?
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02-22-2008, 05:18 PM #52uh... powday.. sorry boss
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- Sep 2006
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- Park City Utah baby
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03-08-2008, 08:34 PM #53
Hell Swell
Halloween weekend in 91 or 92. The Storm that was "The Perfect Storm" was spinning off of the NE sending huge pulses at Fl. I drove up and down Brevard county looking for something makeable and there were 2 options, inside port canaveral and outside reef at RC's. Talked to Matt Kechele in the lot at RC's and he convinced me to paddle out... on a 6'8"! He was on a 7'6" and Bill Hartley was on something bigger and single fin. They were calling it 15 ft +. I was 16 and shitting myself. It looked kinda soft from the beach but was pitching top to bottom and moving in slow motion when I got out. I caught one wave and then took a 10 wave set to the head and was done.
The other day that stands out was Hermosa in Costa in May of 2001. Paddled out behind the Cabinas early in the morning with some folks I met the night before. Timed it right and got out dry hair. Then the sets started coming in from the south and they were hudge, as big as hell swell but more power. Survived a couple then drove up to Boca Barranca and it was 6-8 and going for 1000 yards all the way from the rivermouth down the point and around the corner without a drop of water out of place. Ride one till the end, take it to the beach, walk up the beach and jump in the river and ride the current back out to the peak. Sketchiest place to park a car EVER! Leave nothing in the car, roll the windows down and leave the keys on the seat. The thief's don't want the car and the last thing you want to do is drive back to Hermosa sitting on broken glass.... Ask me how I know....
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03-09-2008, 01:37 AM #54Registered User
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- Apr 2006
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both jersey pics super manageable for when jersey/NE gets overhead. first one lollipop shoulder, second one shallower, but way easier than the previous couple days before it blew west and cleaned up....still sweeeet
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03-09-2008, 11:55 AM #55
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03-09-2008, 12:42 PM #56Registered User
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- Apr 2006
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- 267
Micro,
That's what wompin' all about tho. Stick a 6 or 7' piece of fi-glass in there, way different story. Goal to get drilled vs. goal to avoid being drilled. But word up mic.
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03-09-2008, 12:47 PM #57Registered User
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- Apr 2006
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- 267
Forgot to mention, old dude wouldn't go by the name of cheetah, would he? (semi-bald in shape bro?)
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