Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 70
  1. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Amherst, Mass.
    Posts
    4,684
    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_a_Yeti View Post
    Well that's just ridiculous. I can't hardly believe it!
    And the overlapping holes were with a tightly clustered three-hole pattern:
    http://skimo.co/dynafit-low-tech-race-bindings

    More fun along the same theme:
    http://slc-samurai.blogspot.com/2014...se-is-too.html
    Mo' skimo here: NE Rando Race Series

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    795


    Well, I am running out of real estate, so I just went pretty close. I think less than mm on 2 holes. Right next to JB weld filled holes on a metal topsheet.
    I think 1 of thos skis is up to 6 mounts.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    betwixt the Silvers and Saint Johns
    Posts
    538
    Yeah this not something to worry about. Fill the holes with plugs & epoxy, let dry, than mount as you wish. If some are half-overlapping or whatever it doesn't matter (although I guess I wouldn't want the same mount pattern 1-3 mm off where they are all overlapping, but why would you do that)

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,880
    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_a_Yeti View Post
    Here's what I discovered tonight - I have existing holes of 36mm wide (I think they were Barons) and my new bindings are 38mm wide (Kingpins). And completely different lengths - so on my toe piece I would put the front two screws into the pre existing holes at a weird angle or something and the back two screws into new holes (10mm away from old holes). And the rear bindings would go into all fresh holes. Bad idea to do those two screws into the slightly off holes? These are on Nordica Hell and Back.
    or you could just elongate the holes in the kingpins with a chainsaw file
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    T-town, CO. USA
    Posts
    2,098
    Plug the old holes and use helicoils or inserts were there is overlap with the new holes. Then your boot will be in the correct position. Simple.
    Leave No Turn Unstoned!

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    girdwood
    Posts
    489
    Quote Originally Posted by DropCliffsNotBombs View Post
    Plug the old holes and use helicoils or inserts were there is overlap with the new holes. Then your boot will be in the correct position. Simple.
    I've had good luck with this method. I plugged them with hardwood dowels first.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Bay Area / Tahoe
    Posts
    2,474
    If you tap and drill with a guide/drill press, you can insert skis when you want new holes only 1-3mm away (center to center) from old ones, essentilly shifting the old holes over a few mm.

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Wenatchee
    Posts
    14,610
    Quote Originally Posted by DropCliffsNotBombs View Post
    Plug the old holes and use helicoils or inserts were there is overlap with the new holes. Then your boot will be in the correct position. Simple.
    Plug old holes with wood and/or epoxy and drill new holes. If the new holes produce spinner then use helicoils. Really if you use good epoxy and wood you shouldn't need the heli coil. I've done this many times. People worry too much about overlap.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    T-town, CO. USA
    Posts
    2,098
    Quote Originally Posted by AaronWright View Post
    Plug old holes with wood and/or epoxy and drill new holes. If the new holes produce spinner then use helicoils. Really if you use good epoxy and wood you shouldn't need the heli coil. I've done this many times. People worry too much about overlap.
    Agreed. Forgot to mention, use wood plugs instead of plastic. And use epoxy instead of binding glue when you do this.
    People DO worry too much about binding screw hole proximity! It's almost funny to watch rookie ski techs moving mounting positions all over the ski in an effort to maintain a certain (contrived) distance (6mm? 7mm? 10mm?) from old screw holes. Don't believe this urban myth!
    Leave No Turn Unstoned!

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Killington
    Posts
    16
    XXX-er, thanks. It seems like a really bad idea, I agree. To go outside of the existing 2 sets of holes (this will be the third set - time for new skis?) I'd have to get 2cm front or back of factory line. And I can't decide to go front or back!

    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    If there's no way to get around holes right next to each other, get some #12AB aluminum screws (which have almost the exact same thread as ski binding screws) and epoxy them into the old holes. Cut them off and grind flush with the ski after the epoxy sets.

    Drill & tap your new pattern. Bomber. The aluminum screws won't restore the core strength, but they won't contribute to pull-out of the new screws like slippery plastic plugs might. I haven't drilled an overlapping pattern into the alum screws, but I wouldn't be surprised if it held fine.
    Perfect. Thanks!

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Eburg
    Posts
    13,243
    Quote Originally Posted by AaronWright View Post
    Plug old holes with wood and/or epoxy and drill new holes. If the new holes produce spinner then use helicoils.
    Good advice: basically rebuilding the core. Use good hardwood plugs and good long-set epoxy, and let it cure before drilling.

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    6,749
    Model boat building supply websites have 4mm hardwood dowel if you want to cut your own tight-fitting plugs (I use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel). It is kind of time consuming though.

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Eburg
    Posts
    13,243
    It'd be easy and quick with a lathe.

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,880
    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_a_Yeti View Post
    XXX-er, thanks. It seems like a really bad idea, I agree. To go outside of the existing 2 sets of holes (this will be the third set - time for new skis?) I'd have to get 2cm front or back of factory line!


    IMO once you cut the fibres in a core you have lost the strength of the continuity in that material SO I don't think elongating holes in a core is the best thing and so while wood plugs give you material to screw into I don't think a wood plug will restore that strength of continuity

    I have used FG & 24hr epoxy to fix spinners with 100% success SO I would probably cram the holes with chopped FG strands & 24 hr epoxy making sure to not overly wet the FG strands and drilling that would work as well or > a wood plug IMO

    While its probably gona be OK I have seen a guy break a ski in two due to elongated holes, once back in the day it was a 280lb crazy man on some foam core kniessel redstar slalom skis where buddy had put shims under the binding and elongated the wholes in the process, he was bashing black dioamond moguls with zero finesse for like a perfect storm of shitting on a ski, I folded the ski in half and put it over my shoulder to carry it down for buddy


    I should point out at this time I was just being absurd suggesting that anyone should use a chainsaw file to elongate the holes in a new binding ... it might fuck up the chainsaw file eh
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Killington
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    or you could just elongate the holes in the kingpins with a chainsaw file
    That's what I wanted to do! There's almost no metal around those holes on the Kingpins (front piece) so not sure on that one. Maybe if I add a washer or something.

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Killington
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by DropCliffsNotBombs View Post
    Plug the old holes and use helicoils or inserts were there is overlap with the new holes. Then your boot will be in the correct position. Simple.
    So you're saying the wood plug and epoxy will bond to the ski well enough that it will hold the insert no prob right? How long/hard have you skied on the skis you've done this too? Thanks for your feedback Joebornstein

    I think I'll only need to do this on the front two screws for the front piece of the Kingpins. I think I can get fresh holes everywhere else.

    [QUOTE=XXX-er;4844995] I have used FG & 24hr epoxy to fix spinners with 100% success

    Sorry I'm dumb. Like the stuff you'd use for a canoe repair... those FG woven sheets?

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,359
    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    Model boat building supply websites have 4mm hardwood dowel if you want to cut your own tight-fitting plugs (I use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel). It is kind of time consuming though.
    Bamboo chopsticks, stick the end in a pencil sharpener for a second or two.

  18. #43
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    4,644
    This might help visualize the process (use of super glue not withstanding). Some of this is a bit over the top for plugging a ski hole.

    https://youtu.be/vgtgcIlFGrs

    ... Thom
    Last edited by galibier_numero_un; 11-07-2016 at 10:25 AM. Reason: For clarity
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  19. #44
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,880
    [QUOTE=Ride_a_Yeti;4846965] .

    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I have used FG & 24hr epoxy to fix spinners with 100% success

    Sorry I'm dumb. Like the stuff you'd use for a canoe repair... those FG woven sheets?
    yes I use the FG woven cloth you don't need much, cut it into 1/2 inch strands, I wet the FG out with 24hrs epoxy but make sure it is not too rich, some of these ideas are a race to the bottom as to how sketchy one can you go and not have a failure ... this^^ is as low as I am willing to go

    Usually if I am plugging holes I just use the plastic plugs you hammer in, I have used golf tee's and the like to plug holes its just a pain in the ass making them the correct size, you can also just buy 3 ft of hardwood dowel from most HW stores for a few bucks
    ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Posts
    15,779
    I don't know if it did/will help, but doing a remount for a friend that wanted the binding where the new holes just touched the old ones I dropped helicoils in after plugging the holes with epoxy and wood, figuring those might give some extra holding power.

  21. #46
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    T-town, CO. USA
    Posts
    2,098
    [QUOTE=Ride_a_Yeti;4846965]So you're saying the wood plug and epoxy will bond to the ski well enough that it will hold the insert no prob right? How long/hard have you skied on the skis you've done this too? Thanks for your feedback Joebornstein

    I have skied skis with multiple overlapping holes in several world tour big mountain competitions. I'm only 145 lbs. though....
    Leave No Turn Unstoned!

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Killington
    Posts
    16
    Thanks all. The youtube vid is helpful. All comments are helpful. I think I'm going to fill the old holes with epoxy as XXX-er suggests AND move forward a CM. Although watching through this youtube vid I'm still considering overlapping...

  23. #48
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Wenatchee
    Posts
    14,610
    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_a_Yeti View Post
    Thanks all. The youtube vid is helpful. All comments are helpful. I think I'm going to fill the old holes with epoxy as XXX-er suggests AND move forward a CM. Although watching through this youtube vid I'm still considering overlapping...
    I think you're over thinking this. Fill holes with wood/fg and epoxy. Drill where you want and IF you get a spinner put in a helicoil.

  24. #49
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    267
    That's what I did! Worked - thanks

  25. #50
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Warm parts of the St. Vrain
    Posts
    2,782
    BUMP!! for:

    So I have some E98s, to mount the bindings where I want them, I'm going to get some overlap in two of the holes. The skis have a metal layer in them and require a tap. I want to try this method:

    Quote Originally Posted by MagnificentUnicorn View Post
    I think you're over thinking this. Fill holes with wood/fg and epoxy. Drill where you want and IF you get a spinner put in a helicoil.
    Any special considerations or better technique for the metal or the tap? I'm going to be overlapping by maybe even more than 1/2 over, will a guide/press be mandatory? Will I die if I attempt this?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by Jong Lafitte; 11-03-2018 at 02:13 PM.
    If we're gonna wear uniforms, we should all wear somethin' different!

Similar Threads

  1. mount question... save some HOLES
    By Poop~Ghost in forum Tech Talk
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 11-17-2007, 08:01 AM
  2. binding holes
    By gamma in forum Tech Talk
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 05-07-2007, 10:44 PM
  3. Binding plate query
    By powdog in forum Tech Talk
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 12-14-2005, 12:47 PM
  4. Binding mounting question
    By weski in forum Tech Talk
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 05-06-2005, 08:50 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •