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Thread: How close together can you drill binding holes?

  1. #1
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    How close together can you drill binding holes?

    Shop grabbed the wrong boot for the jig when drilling my skis, wondering how close I could have the toepiece holes redrilled? Maybe one hole diameter of material between holes?

    The shop guy is cool so I'm not going to make a stink about wanting new skis. There's enough travel in the heel to make up for it if need be, but it affects the mounting position a little. (If I move back the toe some it'll get me a more desireable position.)

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    wondering how close I could have the toepiece holes redrilled? Maybe one hole diameter of material between holes?
    That should be fine.
    -Thomas

  3. #3
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    What ski? If it's a burly ski with layers of metal that might be fine, but if its a soft foam core type you'd probably want to space it out a bit more.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    There's enough travel in the heel to make up for it if need be, but it affects the mounting position a little. (If I move back the toe some it'll get me a more desireable position.)
    Try skiing on them. You are probably only 0.5cm of forward of where you wanted. If you don't like it, you can have a better idea if you want to mount them that .5 back where they should be or maybe more.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtybryan View Post
    Try skiing on them. You are probably only 0.5cm of forward of where you wanted. If you don't like it, you can have a better idea if you want to mount them that .5 back where they should be or maybe more.
    You've got ESP, right on it. Last year's K2 Silencer, so not burly. Maybe I'll go ahead and try skiing 'em first, these are cheapish skis for early/shallow powder so I figured better I little too far back than too far forward.

  6. #6
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    How close? should be fine to drill right on the exact hole point, that's as close as you'll get......



  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beatdown View Post
    What ski? If it's a burly ski with layers of metal that might be fine, but if its a soft foam core type you'd probably want to space it out a bit more.
    Never had a problem with the hole-width spacing on any ski.
    -Thomas

  8. #8
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    I would think plastic plugs in the old holes would support the fiberglass/wood between the holes and pretty much prevent any elongation of the new holes, especially if there's at least 4mm of material between the holes. (think I'll go 6mm of material if I redrill, just to be safe) Thanks for the advice guys.
    Last edited by 1000-oaks; 12-07-2007 at 01:59 PM.

  9. #9
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    Rule of thumb is at least 10mm from hole center to hole center.
    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier
    You should post naked pictures of this godless heathen.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by hemas View Post
    Rule of thumb is at least 10mm from hole center to hole center.
    Excellent, that's what my 6mm between holes works out to.

  11. #11
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    if you have twin tips you can easily mount them backwards (toepice pointing towards tail) and should not have any hole conflict, probably a safer bet than edit-6mm spacing.
    Last edited by mortimer; 12-07-2007 at 06:42 PM.

  12. #12
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    I've got some of my screw holes right next to each other(no not my gf's) on 2 pr of skis. No problems.
    I use 4x6mm set screws w/ a dab of super glue in old hole plugs. Works beauty.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mortimer View Post
    if you have twin tips you can easily mount them backwards (toepice pointing towards tail) and should not have any hole conflict, probably a safer bet than edit-6mm spacing.
    That's the dumbest thing I've heard all week. Twin tip skis aren't symmetrical from tip to tail!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNW Skier View Post
    That's the dumbest thing I've heard all week. Twin tip skis aren't symmetrical from tip to tail!
    Agreed, though I figured he was kidding.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    Agreed, though I figured he was kidding.
    I laughed.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    I would think plastic plugs in the old holes would support the fiberglass/wood between the holes and pretty much prevent any elongation of the new holes, especially if there's at least 4mm of material between the holes. (think I'll go 6mm of material if I redrill, just to be safe) Thanks for the advice guys.
    Bump! This is some great info. Do you think the plastic plugs would work better than epoxy?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schralper View Post
    I've got some of my screw holes right next to each other(no not my gf's) on 2 pr of skis. No problems.
    I use 4x6mm set screws w/ a dab of super glue in old hole plugs. Works beauty.
    When you say right next to each other... like literally? 1 mm?

  18. #18
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    Not exactly the biggest sample size, but it's at least some real world data:

    http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en_...lled-skis.html

    They concluded 7 mm center-to-center, which is only about 3 mm material between holes. The old rule of thumb of 1 cm center-to-center seems more than enough.

    I would think this depends heavily on the build of the ski. I imagine a couple layers of metal go a long way in preventing pull out.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_a_Yeti View Post
    When you say right next to each other... like literally? 1 mm?
    Overlapping!
    But I've done this only with Hagan race skis (two pairs, lots of use this past season), which have a crazy drill bit-dulling mounting plate.
    (I know, such a light ski, yet such a strong binding retention plate -- then again, maybe that's the only way they can get the screws to stay in.)
    Filled the old holes with JB Weld, then drilled the new holes, overlapping with the JB Weld.
    I'd never try this though with any random ski.
    Plus have to be sure that the old holes are "bridged" by the binding base plate, as opposed to hanging out there to the rear of the heel unit, ready to act as a fulcrum to snap the ski in half.
    Mo' skimo here: NE Rando Race Series

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schralper View Post
    I've got some of my screw holes right next to each other(no not my gf's) on 2 pr of skis. No problems.
    I use 4x6mm set screws w/ a dab of super glue in old hole plugs. Works beauty.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_a_Yeti View Post
    Bump! This is some great info. Do you think the plastic plugs would work better than epoxy?
    You can purchase hardwood pegs, instead of those plastic pegs to fill the old holes, and the wood pegs are "suppose" to have more strength. The hardwood pegs are specifically made to fill holes that are close, or even overlapping old mount holes.

    http://www.slidewright.com/hardwood-hole-plugs-20pk.php

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan S. View Post
    Overlapping!
    Well that's just ridiculous. I can't hardly believe it!

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by barkcity View Post
    You can purchase hardwood pegs, instead of those plastic pegs to fill the old holes, and the wood pegs are "suppose" to have more strength. The hardwood pegs are specifically made to fill holes that are close, or even overlapping old mount holes.
    Good info, thanks.

    Here's what I discovered tonight - I have existing holes of 36mm wide (I think they were Barons) and my new bindings are 38mm wide (Kingpins). And completely different lengths - so on my toe piece I would put the front two screws into the pre existing holes at a weird angle or something and the back two screws into new holes (10mm away from old holes). And the rear bindings would go into all fresh holes. Bad idea to do those two screws into the slightly off holes? These are on Nordica Hell and Back.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by whatsupdoc View Post
    They concluded 7 mm center-to-center, which is only about 3 mm material between holes.
    Awww yeah.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_a_Yeti View Post
    Good info, thanks.

    Here's what I discovered tonight - I have existing holes of 36mm wide (I think they were Barons) and my new bindings are 38mm wide (Kingpins). And completely different lengths - so on my toe piece I would put the front two screws into the pre existing holes at a weird angle or something and the back two screws into new holes (10mm away from old holes). And the rear bindings would go into all fresh holes. Bad idea to do those two screws into the slightly off holes? These are on Nordica Hell and Back.
    Sounds pretty fucked to me or something to put screws in cockeyed and i wouldn't count on wooden pegs

    Can't you move the mount 1cm or so to avoid conflicts?
    Last edited by XXX-er; 11-03-2016 at 12:56 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  25. #25
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    If there's no way to get around holes right next to each other, get some #12AB aluminum screws (which have almost the exact same thread as ski binding screws) and epoxy them into the old holes. Cut them off and grind flush with the ski after the epoxy sets.

    Drill & tap your new pattern. Bomber. The aluminum screws won't restore the core strength, but they won't contribute to pull-out of the new screws like slippery plastic plugs might. I haven't drilled an overlapping pattern into the alum screws, but I wouldn't be surprised if it held fine.

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