First day I did the lesson at what they called Sheraton Beach (end of street by the hotel), after two waves the instructor said I was good to head to a bigger break so we left there and paddled to...

I just surfed for the first time in Kauai 3 weeks ago. I'm 45. Caught the first wave I tried. It was awesome. The actual surfing was the easiest part. The paddling out was fucking exhausting. ...