Top holes are fine, but I'd drill out the bottom plugs (small drill bit in center of plug, than EZ-Out to twist out plug) re-tap the holes, epoxy in #12AB aluminum screws, then cut off protruding...

And this was a shop in Santa Monica that priced gear at MSRP + 20% 'cuz swanky location. Guy probably paid double the Mammoth rate for that mount (on brand new Lotus 138's).

Recently picked up a pair of minty pow skis on Craiglist, and noticed that the shop (Doc's Ski Haus, which is no more) had stripped a hole when mounting the bindings, so they jammed in a second screw...

If you're doing an insert install, using the drill press or block to keep the tap perpendicular is good, since you don't want the machine screws at an angle. I do the same when tapping for ski...

^ I wouldn't bother. If you put a boot in the binding and flex the ski in reverse a bit, is there still a gap under the screw head? There probably will be, which means you still have some forward...

^ What DIN does she use? A big/strong charger? If not running a high DIN, I'd be perfectly comfortable running it.

Single edge razor blade.

GG only foams where it has room to expand. There's no room in a binding hole, it dries clear.

The reason for the 4.1mm drill in metal (or thick carbon) ski is the root diameter of the screw threads (the "shaft"). In a non-metal ski, it's fine for the hole to be a little smaller than the root...

^ When reusing old holes, definitely counter-turn with light pressure initially to mesh the lead threads. Doing this successfully requires removing the little plastic tabs in the binding baseplates...

Bummer, if you were in L.A. I could probably help you out.

Where are you located?

Nope, imagine how little empty space there is in the hole after the screw is inserted. You just need a film between the threads.

Cores in soft touring skis can be really porous and soak up a...

^ I'd wager he used way too much glue and cranked in the screws too fast, and it had nowhere to go. The first (and hopefully only) time you do that, you can actually hear the fiberglass layers...

GG and epoxy have a pretty high viscosity, so if you add it to the hole and then drive in the screws with a power driver, you could easily force air or gel into the ski somewhere you don't want it. ...

Been using G/Flex for dowels, since those are permanent.

Been using GG for years and have never had that happen, the expansion fills voids but it doesn't exert much pressure. About the only danger is using too much and having it flow/foam out of the hole...

One fix would be to find someone with a mill, and have them mill new 1/4" holes as close to the centerline of ski as possible (overlapping the old holes), and install inserts. If you don't fully...

^ Yeah, the instructions say to wet the surfaces (which I'd do if gluing two boards together), but it still cures around binding screws just from moisture in the air. Or maybe there's enough...

Gorilla Glue only expands if it has room and moisture. It'll foam a bit around the screw between the topsheet and the underside of the binding baseplate due to humidity in the air, but it comes...

Ask Whyturn how much effort it takes to snap the Gorilla Glue bond between the screw and the ski, lol. He was shocked.

You usually need a pozidrive with a hex on it, so you can put a Crescent...

I hate rusty screws, and tossed water-based wood glue years ago.

Gorilla Glue expands, but only if it has room to do so. They're virtually no room between the screw and the hole in the ski, so...

This is an issue not only when reusing existing holes, but also if you've tapped new holes. Always remove the screws from the bindings and drill (or round file) out the little plastic tab keepers so...

Yes, remove the volcanoes with a sharp razor blade so the binding isn't spaced up off the ski. If the threads in the ski are good, I'd just use Gorilla Glue. What ski? Any metal in it?

^ Yes.



I've done that several times (with and without using inserts in the new holes), with the only difference being the old holes are plugged with aluminum #12AB screws that get cut off...

Lol, that's how I do it, except I use a collet instead of a chuck. It's also handy to use a 1/4" end mill if you're doing inserts in holes that were originally done with a jig, so you end up with a...

Good idea, but maybe put a tiny dab of Gorilla Glue on the screw when threading it back into your epoxy "threads" to reseal it from water intrusion?

I always tap all holes, which means you should slso knock out the plastic tabs in binding baseplates with a round file, as mentioned above. Those tabs hold the screws in the bindings during...

F-ing brilliant, well done. I got some hardwood dowel rod from a place that sells wood for model ship building, can't remember the name of the place. X2 on G-Flex.

Here's a cool brass insert to repair bad screw or insert pull-outs: https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=23872

Drill damaged hole to 3/8", screw and epoxy in this beast, and use...

Everybody should have a Grabit Screw Extractor Kit, you'll have that out in seconds just using the reverse-drill end. I use mine way more often than I like.

This stuff isn't cheap, but it's definitely plastic-safe: https://us-store.genuineguidegear.com/products/at-binding-gease You don't use much, so a tub lasts a really long time.

I found a box of #12AB aluminum screws (virtually same thread as ski screws) in an old hardware store and have done this a few times now, works great. I can't imagine it pulling out with so many...

Yeah, better to stop by feel with the tap, or mark the proper depth on it with a Sharpie and watch it while tapping. If you put a drill stop on the tap, it's possible to keep turning after the stop...

If the skis have metal layers, you're careful to not cross-thread the screws reinstalling them, and you don't over-torque the screws, you could swap bindings on and off an infinite number of times...

Last night I tried my 1/4" center-cutting end mill in a drill press on a 2x4 and it didn't wander at all. Nice sharp-edged hole, though admittedly the wood was softer than a ski would be. I didn't...

I do have a Bridgeport, but I'd think a four-flute end mill would plunge into a skj just fine in a drill press. Might jog around a bit at the very start, but ought to settle in to a bore.
...

Since 1/4" holes for inserts are shallow, the most accurate drill bit is a "spot drill" like this: http://www.destinytool.com/uploads/2/4/9/5/24954651/4695334_orig.png

Long drill bits + play in...

My local old-school harware store happened to have them (I bought all they had), but they are rare for sure. I'll post when I find an online source. Brass should work fine too, just gotta make sure...

^ That'll work fine, and is actually fancier than necessary. Carbide will stay sharp a lot longer than HSS (high speed steel) or a cobalt alloy, but is more fragile. Be sure to wear safety glasses...

Agreed, plan A is fine, there's enough real estate. Which end mill did you get? For skis it doesn't matter if it's two or four flute, but cutting with four flutes would probably be more...

Absolutely do that, perfectly fine. I misunderstood and thought you were going to install inserts that wouldn't actually be used in an attempt to "restore" structural integrity.



Plastic plugs...

Holes are 1cm apart on center, or you have 1cm of ski material between holes?

I hassle with the AB screw trick only if a new hole is going to be right next to an old hole. If there will be 4mm+...

Shot a quick cell phone DIY of plugging old holes with aluminum #12AB screws. If you don't mind the additional labor, this is definitely the most bulletproof way to plug old holes if your new...

^ Good advice. It also helps to spin an M5 nut onto the screw prior to cutting and grinding, because removing the nut cleans up or straightens the last thread.

Finally found a source for stainless M5 T-nuts, if any other DIY'ers have been searching for 'em.
M5 x 8mm A2 STAINLESS TEE NUTS, DRIVE IN, FOUR 4 PRONGED, CAPTIVE T NUT...

Depending on your BSL, you may be able to reuse the two rear Duke/Baron/F12/F10 heel holes as the Ion's rear heel holes. At my BSL of 296, I mounted my Ion heel baseplate about 5mm to the rear of...

I absolutely feel the layers in the ski through the lever on the press. It's not a power-feed quill. How is a hand on the lever different than a hand on a hand drill? Suppose if someone just rams...

Big fan of the drill press personally.

Just did a mount that had touching holes, but I epoxied aluminum #12 sheet metal screws into the old holes first, cut off the heads and ground 'em flat. Tapped the new holes, which cut a bit of...