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Summer
Secret surf break comes to mind, but they had to defend that break from the Nazis.
“Every Cretan lives with the mountains always in sight, snow-covered in winter,” the Cretan ski pioneer Nikiforos Steiakakis told me. “But skiing on them was not something we thought of.”
When, in the winter of 2008, Mr. Steiakakis announced his intention to try skiing on Crete, his father cautioned that the fiercely territorial mountain villagers would either shoot him or vandalize his car, or both.
“He told me I was crazy, I was asking to be killed,” Mr. Steiakakis said.
The road up from Mr. Steiakakis’ home in Heraklion to the base of the island’s highest summit, Psiloritis, winds through a handful of villages where sheep farmers and marijuana growers (some of Europe’s most prized weed is grown on Crete) have long protected their turf with a reputation for making outsiders — even coastal Cretans from just a few miles away — feel unwelcome. The tough reputation is earned in part from their stubborn and wily resistance to centuries of occupation by the Ottomans and, later, Nazi Germany. For its role as a rebel stronghold, Anogia, a gateway to good skiing, was burned and razed three times in the past 200 years, its villagers massacred.
Mr. Steiakakis was in his 20s at the time and had skied little up until that point, just a few days on the Greek mainland, which has a long history of skiing, with mountains that rise to more than 9,000 feet, and many ski areas — 25, to be precise. He thought his island home might offer a bit of practice in preparation for skiing elsewhere.
Instead, what he discovered was a skier’s paradise. At least a paradise for skiers who are willing to climb for their turns using lightweight alpine ski touring equipment and synthetic climbing “skins” that attach to skis’ bases and grip the snow for the way up. The payoff: good snow, long descents, little avalanche danger and what is increasingly hard to find anywhere, a lack of other skiers seeking all those things.