I seen a vid that talked about using JUST the suds to lube the rim so you wana get as little water as you can on the rim & tireQuote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
I tried it once and I thot it worked well
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I seen a vid that talked about using JUST the suds to lube the rim so you wana get as little water as you can on the rim & tireQuote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
I tried it once and I thot it worked well
^^ same. Have used liquid soap applied to bead and rim as well for good results.
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Same height, same reach preference. I got their size medium.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
I'm surprised how rarely anyone says "heat up the tires first." I changed some motorcycle tires this summer and between dish soap on the bead and an hour laying in the sun, the giant tire irons weren't even necessary. This time of year, keeping the rims cold should be easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by VTskibum
I stopped by Commencal in Squamish today and pedalled the medium Absolut around inside the showroom. The size felt pretty good, though the front end felt low. I’d definitely try some higher rise bars. Obviously these are very preliminary impressions, and I’d have to give the bike a proper try.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
I want to convert my 2016 Beargrease fatbike to a 1x. How do you figure out the spacing for the chainring? Do you buy new cranks or can you use the original? And what else don't I know?...aside from everything.
1) what kind of chainring mount do your existing cranks have? Will the cranks take a direct mount ring, or do you have to mount to a spider? Note that some cranks have a spider, but the spider can be removed so a direct mount ring can be attached.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
If direct mount is an option, you'll have a bit more flexibility - you can get rings with different offsets (0mm, 3mm and 6mm are fairly common), and those rings can be run either "forward" or "backward" to get the offset inward or outward. If direct mount isn't an option, then you mostly just need to decide which side of the spider you're going to mount to. If you're mounting to a spider, you can also space the chainring out from the spider (which will require longer bolts and a spacer kit).
2) Look at your bottom bracket. Are there spacers? Are the spacers on the drive or non drive side? Swapping those spacers will shift your cranks and chainring (usually 2.5mm per spacer) in one direction or the other.
3) Shift your chain into the middle of the cassette and sight down the chain from the rear. It should be pretty close to a straight line to your chainring. If it's straight, great - that's where you want your new chainring to be; buy accordingly. If it's not straight, use the available adjustments in #1 and 2 to get the chainring where it needs to be so the chainline is as straight as possible.
4) If your adjustments require moving the chainring inboard, be careful you don't run into clearance issues with the chainstay. Also, if you spend the vast majority of your time at one end of the cassette or the other, you can consider spacing the chainring in or out to have your chainline be straighter in the gears you're usually in. This means that your chain will be extra not-straight at the other end of the cassette though.
^ thank you so much!
Surely I will fuck this all up! :) Live and learn!
random q - anyone have a good hack/option for bike trainer use with a 20 or 16 inch tire? Would love to get my kids doing some pedal practice in the winter, but doesn't seem to be much out there.
Rollers with a front wheel stand or front dropout mount?Quote:
Originally Posted by schuss
I had an old Cyclops Fluid and they make an adapter for 16/20" though I found even the lowest fluid resistance was pretty tough for them, so didn't get used often. The roller suggestion is likely a better one, hacked something for novelty for my daughter, but wouldn't expect too much in my experience. Think the longest one kid lasted on Zwift was ~10 minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
My kids have a lot of fun pedaling on a 16" bike mounted in Cycleops Fluid2. Bike has just has axle bolt ends or whatever you call it. Tire doesn't even come close to touching the resistance unit. I don't know or care if this a "correct" solution, the kids have a lot of fun with it. If you want to add some resistance, I bet a bit of brake drag would be plenty for a kid.Quote:
Originally Posted by schuss
Just let em learn to ride rollers for real - they'll pick it up after a few wipeouts. Then have them try no hands. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Could use a direct drive ("wheel off") trainer with something to raise the front wheel more than usual. Also makes it easier to deal with knobby tires. And an excuse to upgrade your trainer.
As much as I'm a fan of unreasonable kid purchases (my son has a nice steel singlespeed with 20 inch wheels), a direct drive trainer feels like it's pushing it. Also already bought the neobike...Quote:
Originally Posted by teledad
Any parent who really wants to be unreasonable needs to get their kid a 16" spawn, the kid will ride further faster and the bike will have great resale
If you end up having to compromise one way or the other, mount it so your driveline works better in the low (big sprokets) gears. Unless you ride your fat bike on the road all the time then WTF are you thinking?Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
Yeah, I break trail a lot, so granny gear is key. But once it gets packed it really does become fast or faster. As a reference many strava koms at places like Fort Rock are from winter snow rides. We have a lot of rock and roots. Snow creates a buff paved highway when conditions are perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaver
New bike (GG Gnarvana) is setup for 180mm rear rotor using IS mount. Swapping the wheels over from my old bike before I sell it. Old wheels have 200mm rotors. Am I just brain fogged or can I not find an IS adaptor to allow for 200mm rear rotor?
Edit: nevermind....I see I need a 60mm IS to bring the rear up to 200mm.
Don't forget to redish the wheels.
Had a grand old time sourcing a IS adapter to make Hayes brakes work on the Gnarvana with the pile of 203 rotors I have on hand... Then I read about re-dishing the wheel. Then I found a seized bearing in my not very old frame.
Good thing it's ski season and I can dabble with the build for a couple hours here and there or I'd be pissed!
Redish wheels? Huh?
I've moved wheels from bike to bike all kinds of times. These are stiff carbon wheels.
You are selling the SB150??Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Oops…. Just see the for sale thread right below this! Too small unfortunately!!
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Dummy priced.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3240896/
GG bikes with the aluminum rear triangle have a 3mm offset on the rear wheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Very interesting and I have never heard of this with any other bikes I have had. I guess the dudes at the shop would know how to do this? Is it easy to re-dish a wheel at home? I have spoke wrenches etc. I work on every part of my bike, but never fuck with wheel building.Quote:
Originally Posted by geomorph