Well, I am getting some mystery pedals from NuMexJoe (thanks mang!) so we'll see if there's anything worth filming.
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The Saint crankset on my wife's DH bike has come loose a couple times. A few weeks ago, the fucking left arm just fell off. Don't know if it's the tolerances, or the pinch bolts working loose or what, but it sucks. I've never had a problem with Shimano cranks before, so still thinking there could be a user error component. This time the preload thingy is gone, so I replaced it with a WolfTooth one that uses a hex head instead of that stupid star thing, so at least now I can tighten it on the road. Extra grease added to spindle. Extra locktite added to pinch bolts. Fingers crossed.
Why is there a spacer in there in the first place?
Generally if you're running a shimano BB, any spacers due to shell width would go between the external bearings and the BB shell. If you're running hollowtech 2, then everything should fit nicely, and you don't need any external spacers (between cranks and BB).
The only time i've personally used them is when you run a road BB with a 68mm shell, then use mtb hollowtech 2 cranks (crank spindle is longer). Also, there should be a little black pin that drops down into the spindle to 'line up' the crank arms.
When tightening them, alternate back and forth. If you torque one, then torque the other, the first one won't be upto spec, so double check.
I've never had any issues with hollowtech 2 cranks on any bikes i've worked on.
if it's not hollowtech 2, ignore all those comments.
I still have not solved this. I have taken the cassette off and on to make sure it wasn't an issue with the spider. Any ideas?
I'm literally having to stop and check my axle every mile so that it is tight enough not to fall out but not too tight to cause the cassette to rub.
Definitely sounds unusual. Is your 240 the newer EXP model? If so, I’m assuming you’re not reusing the freehub from the 350, because I don’t think they are compatible. Do you have the correct end caps? The xd and ms caps are different. If you install the 350 does shifting return to normal?
If you have some calipers I’d start measuring and comparing to the 350 setup. Overall hub width (148mm). From end cap to 10t sprocket. End cap to 51t. Etc.
240 is exp 54t, new this year, new carbon wheelset.
350 is 36t also this year's model (or last years) came on the stock dt aluminum wheelset with my new (to me) 2022 Spire with Shimano XT drivetrain everything including the 10-51 in question.
I moved the cassette from the 350 wheel to the 240 wheel. I did not move the hub body.
I could try moving the cassette back and reinstalling the 350 wheel.
When I looked up the 240 product ID it came back as an 148mm 36t XD, but 100% it is a 148mm with 54t internals and a MS. Now the wheel mfg could have had a 36t XD and swapped the 54t in and changed the fhb to MS to fit the order, but would that have affected spacing on anything? I would think they would be aware of such things?
The MS lockring has a smaller internal diameter than the XD or the old HG lockring (they all use the same tool, but deeper than the tool splines the ms one gets smaller diameter). The MS endcap is likely a slightly smaller diameter to work with that (I don't have a DT endcap to look at and confirm this, but it is definately true with other brands). If you have the wrong endcap, the cassette lockring will bind on the end cap, when you tighten the axle, you will get the cassette drag that you describe.
Everything involved is MS, both wheelsets/hubs and the cassette and lockring.
That MS lockring is nuts, (before this bike I only had SRAM) it is shallow and has tiny threads... that combined with the non-one-piece spider for Shimano and the ease with which you can think you seated the 10T by having it rotated about 120deg, but its actually sitting cockeye led me to partially stripping the lockring. Apparently this is a common mistake even for experienced wrenches (I'm not). Luckily I realized it before the lockring was destroyed (nobody has replacements), rectified the 10T placement to flush, and put the ring back on. At first I thought this was the issue, but I don't think that is the issue, and it certainly wouldn't explain the apparent shifting of the 51 entire cassette outboard (requiring high limit and low limit adjust).
The Hollowtech 2 wide models (XT 8120 and 8130) both have spacers between the BB cup and the crankarm to deal with the wider Q-factor. The 8100 (regular boost) doesn't have the spacers.
All 3 models take 2.5 mm spacers between frame and BB cup (either 1 or 3 spacers depending on the width of the BB).
I was confused as hell when I first saw the post cause I run a 8100 crankset and didn't realize OP is running the wider 8120 version.
From the last couple posts, it sounds to me like the hub was originally 36t XD, the wheel manufacturer converted it to 54t MS to fill your order, but they didn't swap the XD end cap for an MS one, and the MS lockring is bottoming out on it. I bet if you swap the drive side end cap for an MS one, it'll solve your problems.
You know what else causes the problems I had? Not installing the drive side spacer at all because it was in the wheel box, and then tightening the axle until the stay touches the lockring causing friction and shifting everything outboard vs the mech position.
Thanks all for giving me the undeserved credit of assuming I wouldn't make such a dumb move and fail to recognize it. My only defense is that I did it at midnight. :fmicon:
So horizontal drop outs (DJ) are dumb. I have a Hadley bolt on axle but it keeps slipping. This is on a DT-Swiss 350, 135x10mm thru axle.
Wondering if a DT-Swiss RWS or other axle will be more secure?
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Ah shoulda added that they conflict w my Hadley axle, as they’re too wide so don’t have enough threads and also take same slot in horizontal drop.
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Pics?
I’m thinking you have this?
Attachment 423526
Shoulda taken some and is late, but the Hadley non drive side has a notch that fits in the horizontal drop. Same is on the drive and non drive of bmx tugs, which overlap. So tugs won’t work w my axle, hence curious if the RWS or if there are other better options.
The Hadley doesn’t have any kind of gnarled surface to adhere to horizontal drop as it’s perfectly smooth.
Edit - yep that’s what I’m running, tried taking the spacer out but still not wide enough w chain tugs.
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Makes sense, maybe try to find an old saint/zee 10mm thru axle or just source a solid chromoly hub axle and use that as a thru axle. Either way you need to make it so you can use a tensioner if you are puting any sort of power down.
Yeah, those bolt on thru axle inserts don't actually generate much clamping force. Iirc, a decent quick release actually clamps harder.
Can you grind off the nubs that prevent you from using a tensioner?
Just bought a saint axle off eBay, will give that a go alongside chain tugs. Hopefully solves the issue, frustrating
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EXT Storia question for the experts, likely applicable to most coil shocks.
Had my Gnarvana in the stand the other day and realized that the spring had a tiny bit of play (maybe 0.5 mm) when the rear wheel wasn't on the ground. I tightened the preload collar a bit so I could still spin the spring by hand but couldn't feel any fore-aft motion at all. EXT recommends 1 mm of preload, I doubt I got the spring to compress that much. When I got on the bike today it felt a bit better, I guess springier would be the word, and definitely stiffer. The issue though was the loud topout clank I got anytime the shock reached full extension. Given the fact that I move the rear wheel constantly and it spends a ton of time off the ground, the racket was quite annoying. I added a bit of rebound damping but it didn't quiet things down much. Anyone dealing with this on EXT shocks? People complain that they're super loud, which they are. I really don't mind the slurping noise coming from the damper but that metal-on-metal clank is a bit cringe-inducing when it happens at speed and makes you wonder if the shock is going to self destruct...
That sounds wrong. I've had my Storia about 2 years and don't get that. I think you're possibly still missing some preload. I like to do that with the shock off the bike. I get it until I can no longer pull the spring away from the collar by hand, then add 1 more complete revolution.
Wait, missing preload? I'd think the more preload on the shock the harder it will push when fully unloaded and the more you'd get the clank when it fully extends no? I'll try tonight and see if it makes a difference, it's counterintuitive to me but it's my first coil so I'm not exactly experienced...
Worst case, swing by EXT USA/ Suspension Syndicate, they’re in SLC. I’m sure they’d sort you out. My Storia does not have any top out noise that I’ve noticed.
I don’t know anything about the Storia, but I’d be surprised if there isn’t some sort of top-out bumper in it, so metal clanking is probably spring, not the shock, so I agree that it’s likely a not-enough preload issue.
Simple to test though, right? Just give it another couple turns of preload and see if the noise changes or goes away. If quieter or gone, then it was preload, if it’s louder then maybe you’re on the right track about top out. Either way, you’re not going to damage anything by playing with the preload a little.
Thanks all. What confuses me here is that the preload collar wasn't tight enough before but there wasn't any noise. I just noticed it when the bike was in the stand and realized that I could move the rear wheel up a couple mm before the spring contacted the collar. Once I got the preload supposedly correct it started clanking.
I'll swing by the Suspension Syndicate tomorrow and pick Cody's brain, we'll see what I fucked up.
It’s been a few years, but I had a similar thing happening and discovered that my spring was bent. It wouldn’t stay snug on the collar with a minimum amount of preload.
If you take the spring off and stand it on a flat service you can see a bend if its there.
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Riding a Virtus Mythique 29. My rear suspension works fine - compresses and rebounds. However, if I lock it out, it will compress then rebound VERY slowly.
Any suggestions as to what might be happening? This is my first bike so don't really know anything about them.
Anyone tried this? Somewhat interested but the price puts me off.
https://na.pocsports.com/products/co...42274465448102
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Hey experts,
So I somehow bent the axle on my singlespeed and need to find a replacement axle that Chris King no longer stocks (too much torque in the legs! [emoji1]). More likely something rattled loose holding everything together but we each have our narratives right?
Long shot, but anyone got a lead on a PHB541 - 135 mm Bolt On axle for the singlespeed ISO Disc hub?
I searched the interwebz but the part appears to be out of stock.
Appreciate it if someone could give me a lead so I don’t need to get a new hub.
Cheers,
Coach
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Sweet - thanks for the lead - I sent them a message.
Cheers!
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Is this worth a sand and re-paint or is it just going to look like this again quickly?
Attachment 423706
Attachment 423707
That hitch is obviously destroyed, and yer gonna die. Time to get a 1Up.
Even powder coating can't withstand the forces and little movements in a hitch. I say don't bother. Slather on some grease if you're really worried about corrosion.
Not worth it.
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If you leave that rack in the hitch long term, I'd put some grease on the threaded section and on the insert. If it gets removed between uses, I wouldn't bother with anything.