I was wondering how to charge when away from the 115V at home ?
so how much time do you need to charge a 630 W battery, I'm assuming the truck needs to be running as in drivivng somewhere ?
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I was wondering how to charge when away from the 115V at home ?
so how much time do you need to charge a 630 W battery, I'm assuming the truck needs to be running as in drivivng somewhere ?
About 5 hours with a 4 amp charger. More than double that with a 1.8
You need to be driving or at least idling for most inverters to draw enough power. Also a lot of built in vehicle inverters have pretty low current limits. With my F250 and the factory invertor I can charge with my 4 amp charger, but only 1 at a time.
Anyone have experience flying with an Ebike? I know the battery can’t be on the plane. But shipping the battery separately or renting one at destination seemed possible.
Any first hand anecdotes out there?
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We have 2 bikes now with a 4amp & a 2amp charger. I just finished running 4 awg cables under my F150 from the battery and into the truck bed. For now, I’ll try swapping locations of a 2000W inverter from our camp trailer for day tripping or extended trips. I can also move our dual source (solar &/or alternator) battery charger, solar panel & 100 Ah LiFePO4 battery if it ever made sense.
We have a couple 100W panels for the trailer and they can charge the batteries very well while camping. Plus, the truck can act as a generator if absolutely needed on low sun days.
I ordered an in-line DC watt, V & amp meter I can clip in with Anderson connectors to verify energy and current. This, coupled with an AC version. I’m expecting no more than 200W per bike, but we’ll see. So anyone looking, a 300W (min.) inverter should work, I think.
I’m still not clear if there is a real problem with modified sine wave inverters. But with ‘smart charger’ and other unknowns pure sine wave is probably best, plus it can be used for other devices.
I’m thinking a power station might be worth a look for some if you can keep it charged. Basically my set up is a modular one. I have the battery in a ‘smart box’ https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_M...&gclsrc=aw.ds&.
Then there’s the ‘buy extra batteries’ money pit approach….
As far as I can tell, another eBike battery costs in the neighborhood of a 100Ah LiFePO4 battery which could be useful seasonly for other uses.
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Thoughts on these for full suspension e-bikes?
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...bikes-29er.htm
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...tain-bikes.htm
My first e-bike was a Hal-27.5. It was decent and I beat the shit out of it.
The major components are good, but they cheap out on stuff like pedals, skewers, handlebars, etc.
I think they’re a decent value, especially if there aren’t a lot of bike shops locally.
Has anyone done an e-bike conversion here? Thinking about getting a kit and converting an older full suspension bike of mine to see if I like it, before shelling out huge amounts of money in the future on a better bike. Bad idea?
I considered that, but needing to upgrade to beefier components seemed like a necessary part of the mix.
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I think that was people rididng on roads
100 kph on a bicycle sounds scary to me
I ride in boost almost all the time even going down hill ( power to rail berms ) I switch to trail mode when things get too sketch and i might get tossed down the mtn side
as soon as the algorithyms recognise you are e-bike scum the FB will link you to a site that will try to sell you a plug-in module that fools the motor sensors into thinking the bike is only going half speed how many people will do this i can't say
even with a pretty capable E-bike I'm not sure I want to go twice as fast on the mtnbike trails i ride
I think modding the bikes for increased speed is mostly a non issue. One can only go as fast as the track and sight lines allow. For wide open straightaways speed could get hairy.
Average singletrack speeds for Enduro bikes don't get that fast. My 300 will only handle so much speed in singletrack and it has no pedals to catch. This presumes only pedal assist and no throttle assist ebikes. Throttle assist has no place on mtb trails; too much potential for acceleration skidding and whooping out trails.
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Ebike + Mac ride + dad + 2yo = bliss
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Any of you familiar with the Block Lock deal on an Acros headset? My XL Decoy has the clearance to not need the blocklock and being able to transport it with the bars turned all the way so it as flat as possible would be nice. From what I can find, it looks like a new bottom and race are needed to delete the blocklock. Any other options that do not involve buying new stuff? Thanks.
The arcos lock block headsets are not the greatest quality. I put a -1 degree works components headset in mine last spring. No issues. I'd go -1.5 if i did it again is about it
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Decoy headtubes are relatively short and my headset came with 2 different top cap/bearing covers. One was 15 or 20mm high and the other was flat. Because the ht is so short i gave the flat cap away and just used the longer cover and still use a 50mm rise bar. Different people, different set ups. Flat cover wouldnt help with turning your bars though.
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The overall average speed on my display for 700kilometers is < 20kph and taking a quick glance in the middle of a berm my speed is closer to 15kph
yeah hacking it would give me a higher top end but most of the time I couldn't use it on the local trail system
People that use their emtbs for commuting derestrict and its useful on tge road , especially if you have a long flat commute. Not necessary on the trail.
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The problem with DC-DC is mostly voltage. You need to convert the output voltage of the source (usually 12v) to the input voltage of the battery (usually 36-72v). Then you also need a balancer, which should be built-in to the battery for any of these sealed cases. Ideally companies could provide 12v powered power bricks, that would be the easiest solution.